Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

there is no problem at all - its working great
either you tune the cockpit motion on the screen to match your motion movement
or you drive with a fixed one - like in my case
adding the sceens to your motion rig is working
but this depends to your motion settings - and you need very solid screen mounts - i need to admit we killed already one 32 - but like always we need to learn
 
New to tactiles.
Questions: One of the nosound amps 2.0ch is sufficient to power two transducers? Looking for front wheel lock up and loss of rear traction feedback. I have Heusinkveld Ultimates. I have clamps on the Brake pedal so it slides left and right. Should I go two DAEX32EP-4 or two TT25 pucks. I'm leaning more towards two DAEX32EP-4 for compactness.
 
Last edited:
New to tactiles.
Questions: One of the nosound amps 2.0ch is sufficient to power two transducers? Looking for front wheel lock up and loss of rear traction feedback. I have Heusinkveld Ultimates. I have clamps on the Brake pedal so it slides left and right. Should I go two DAEX32EP-4 or two TT25 pucks. I'm leaning more towards two DAEX32EP-4 for compactness.
Yup - you need one channel per transducer.
 
Depends. Details matter
Aluminum is more elastic/less lossy, but resonances can smear tactile details,
and higher density can lower resonant frequency.
FDM has inherently more damping and is less rigid,
but with proper design may have less mass so less impact on resonant frequency.

Optimize design for selected material and wanted tactile frequencies.
 
Last edited:
Aluminum is more elastic/less lossy, but resonances can smear tactile details,
and higher density can lower resonant frequency.
FDM has inherently more damping and is less rigid,
but with proper design may have less mass so less impact on resonant frequency.

Optimize design for selected material and wanted tactile frequencies.
If designing a 3D print bracket, should the mount ( thinking U shaped) wall thickness be 2-3mm or 5mm for resonances to travel.
 
If designing a 3D print bracket, should the mount ( thinking U shaped) wall thickness be 2-3mm or 5mm for resonances to travel.
Brackets want to be rigid, to resonates as one with the driven mass of to whatever it is attached. They can be thin in any dimension not liable to loading.
 
Last edited:
I see it was discussed two weeks ago, but I am considering upgrading to Simagic Pedal Reactors from my rumble motors. Have two questions though:

1. Has anybody compared how they work with the Simagic Pedal Control Box and an AMP? I do not see point in buying their control box as I have spare amps + PSU?
2. Has anybody compared them to a excited setup (Dayton HESF / EP)? These pedal reactors are based on voice coil motors, so they are more or less similar but the reactors maybe have higher moving mass.

Recently new exciter got release, which has resonance frequency of 40Hz and on paper should be great for such implementation. I will be ordering some this week to test myself:

Also noticed this one, never saw it before. Anybody ever tested it? It is supposed to be quite powerful and size-wise looks to be similar to the linear motor in the pedal reactors:

I am also waiting EU stock on the reactors to order one or two for compression, any input would be helpful before I place my order this week, thanks!
 
My current setup:
Simlabs rig / very rigid.
NRG Prisma seat mounted on plywood/isolated from rig.

Heel plate with 2x TT-25 stuck to the bottom w/ 3m UHB tape. Using this for road rumble / wheel slip. Works well.

Buttkicker gamer plus. Buttkicker is bolted to the bottom of a piece of plywood. NRG seat mounts bolt to the top of the plywood. Plywood is bolted down to the rig itself. This works well, seat is well isolated from the rig.
---

I have 2x Dayton TT-25 transducers and a Nobsound amp. I want to set these up to do gear shift effects on the seat.

I currently have the Nobsound hooked up to two Dayton exciters. I was using these for gear shifts, but just could not get them sounding good. It would feel ok, but I could hear this rattly/harsh noise on top of the gear shift thump. One of the exciters seems to have died, so I am just swapping both out for TT-25s.

I am thinking of sticking the TT25s very low on the back of the seat. There is a flat section near the bottom corners of the back that I will use. I am going to use 3M UHB circles to mount them.

I don't want to drill into the seat, and UHB has held my pedal plate TT25s pretty well so far.

My questions:
For a Dayton TT-25, what simhub settings have you found work well for gear shift effects?

What other effects would work well for these transducers? I'm thinking RPMs but I can never get a setting for this that feels good / doesn't sound like a synthesizer.

Can anyone share screenshots or settings of their simhub tt-25 effects?
 
zombie pedal
My first tactile experience was clicking into Assetto Corsa's E30 M3 Evo
wearing a Samsung Odyssey WMR headset.
  • The SRS ShakeSeat suddenly came alive,
    strongly evocative of real E30 M3 track car experience.
  • Sadly, engine vibrations confounded useful ShakeSeat feedback:
    tire slip.
  • Useful wins over immersion, for me,
    but engine vibration via dead pedal need not be distracting.
  • While a dead pedal should not deflect from foot pressure,
    vibrating laterally should be fine.
fabrication details
 
New to sim racing (3 weeks) and tactile transducers (2 absolutely amazing days so far). Is the Good Vibrations discord still accepting members?

I’ve mounted two 50mm transducers under my pedal tray (it’s only a playseat challenge x but I love that thing) while I wait for the pedal mounts to arrive.

Thinking about either adding 4 small corner shakers or a front and back (50w) all while skilfully avoiding divorce so I’m trying to learn as much as possible and this seems like the place
 
Ask Peter in his Rig Report

 
Hello everyone, this is my first post here, so half introduction, half request.
I'm Emanuel, from Argentina, living in Los Angeles, CA.

Currently, I'm playing 99% F1 on PlayStation. And for the last couple months I've been building this foldable rig. (I'm planning to do my own rig rundown post, once I'm done with a couple things I'm still working on).

20231114_153152.jpg


20231114_153130.jpg


It's my first aluminum rig, and my most important initial building concepts were:
  1. Foldable pedalboard (for reduced footprint while not in use)
  2. Fully integration of haptics (with all amps and wiring self-contained on the rig, to avoid the need of an extra rack)
I've read a lot from this thread, as well as some Rig Reports threads (PeterWinkler, ScreaminBejesus) and I've found a lot of useful information regarding hardware. So, after some searching on the used market, and A LOT of DIY, I ended up with this setup:

Hap Setup.jpg


Quick rundown here. Skip if you don't care:
  1. Dell laptop receives WiFi telemetry from PS5.

  2. Sabrent hub distributes information to both arduinos, and to two different StarTech USB interfaces.

  3. Startech 1 goes into a Behringher amp, into 2 Buttkickers (one under Pedal plate, and one on Seat plate). On both BK I'm currently running Front/Back Road Bumps and Vibration).

  4. Startech 1 also goes into a Fosi amp, into a Clark239, running low RPM effects.

  5. Startech 2 is inside the black box. It's connected to two SURE 4x100w amps, for a total of 8x100w outputs.
  • From those 8 output, five go into Dayton exciters on the seat (Four of them are running Wheel Lock and Wheel Slip, into 4 corner mode. And the fifth on the upper back is running high RPMs).

  • The sixth output, powers an Aura under the Seat plate, with I use for Gear changes.

  • The seventh and eight, power two Auras under the Pedal plate. I am not sure what to use them for, so for now they are just running front wheels Rumble on Left/Right mode (for kerbs).

I still don't have good pictures, but as you can se on this one, the Behringher and DIY amps are attached to the rig. And the telemetry is received wireless by the laptop. That way, I avoid the need for extra racks, and the only two wires coming out of the rig are the main Power Cord, and the USB cable that connects the wheel into the PS5.

20231222_090453.jpg


Finally, I'll get to the "I need help" part. As mentioned, I got a lot of information from this forum in regards to hardware. And the build is 99% completed and working. I am really happy with the result.

But then, I still can't find any good information in regards Simhub/Effects settings. I realized all SimHub effects come by defauly at the same 40Hz frequency and response. So I started to move things around. I picked different freqs for different effects. Located them on different transducers. Increased thresholds on Locks. Added white noise on Slips. But overall, I feel I am just moving things around blindly, to see what works, and what doesn't. I could save a lot of time if I could read some guide with tips. For instance: IDEAL frequencies for different effects. Ideal location. Or even ideal layering.

If there's any thread, or guide, that I am missing, I would love to be directed there and to learn more on how to tune my rig. Meanwhile. I'll be working on finishing a couple minor things (Mostly wire management, and isolation for the amps). Taking better pictures. And writing my rig report to try share some of my ideas with the community.

Sorry for the long read.
Emanuel.
 
Last edited:
i am not the PS5 expert - but as long you route this via simhub GV could help you
F1 titles in sumhub are working very good

infos about GV you can find here


 

about 2 years ago I showed here my "rolling wooden-plastic rig" with tactile motion and low swinging shakers.

Now slowly the market offers solutions that go in this direction


alu is to stiff
shakers should run free and dampers should be seperate mounted to the middle
shakers with extraweight ->lower frequence more punch
 
Well, I built my new rig back around mid-2023 and spent far too much money in the process – key details:
  • Simlab P1X (located a few meters away from my PC, with USB and HDMI ran under floor / behind walls)
  • 6no. GT Omega PRIME caster wheels (Link)
  • Motorbike garage carpet mat (fluid resistant TPR backing and hard wearing polyester 5mm deep pile carpet) (Link)
  • Sparco R100 seat on sliders.
I’m now looking at spending more money to add some ‘tactile immersion’!

A few days ago, I knew absolutely nothing – other than Buttkicker existed! I’ve now read a lot on this thread and elsewhere and have nearly formulated a plan / specification and I’m here to see if we can totally change this plan or gain some much-needed advice to avoid going down any dead ends! Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

1. Purchase the following now:
StarTech.com 7.1 USB - External Sound Card1no.£35
Douk Audio M41no.£80
Dayton Audio TT25-8 pucks2no.£50
£165 total

I have a fair bit of QED Classic 79 Strand speaker cable lying around already that I would use to connect pucks to the amplifier + other cables as needed.

The t.racks DSP 4x4 Mini Amp has also caught my eye – but at more than double the price of the Douk and knowing nothing about what to expect at this stage, I may be better off dipping my toes in first before over-spending!

2. Add the 2no. pucks to wooden board to be inserted into Sparco R100 seat back as show here -

I had thought about 4no. pucks – but I don’t think the separation is sufficient and going up to 230mm on the board may literally be a bit of a stretch within the seat fabric (see below) and may mean the wooden board is a bit weak at the narrow points.

Picture1.png


3. Purchase later for front of rig / pedals:
Dayton Audio TT25-8 pucks2no. (4no. total now)£50
Pedal plate isolationAdvice needed!£TBC
Or
Exciters2no.TBC
Assume pedal plate isolation not required

4. Figure out where best to place above 2no. additional pucks or just fix 2no. exciters. 1no. to brake and 1no. to accelerator pedal (connected to remaining 2no. spare channels of the Douk Audio M4). The underside of the heel plate seems ideal placement for pucks – see highlighted in yellow below (Simtrecs Pro Pedal GT, with Simtrecs pedal and heel plate).

Picture2.png


Picture3.png


5. Decide on budget and whether to have single or dual (Left / Right) shakers under seat and purchase later:
Fosi Audio BT20A1no.£85
Dayton Audio BST-11no. or 2no.£65 ea.
Isolation between seat rails and main rigAdvice needed!TBC
Or
Behringer EUROPOWER EPQ3041no.£170
Something more exotic than BST-1?1no. or 2no.TBC

This will also be dependent upon working out how best to fix to the underside of my Sparco R100 seat (on sliders) on Simlab P1X rig and what isolation I can add between seat support and main rig.

I did find this video but I’m dubious about how much energy would be lost due to flexibility of the VESA mount -

For 2no. shakers and L/R setup, maybe something like this would be better, fixed to inside of profile under seat slider rails either side - https://www.motedis.co.uk/en/Universal-Monitor-Mount-Alu-lasered-VESA-75100

There is a fairly solid cylindrical bar running across the underside of the seat towards the front – maybe this could be used somehow. Finally, the elasticated straps under the seat may be good enough to hold a shaker in place – maybe with some additional strapping – or is this a bad idea?! See below.

Picture4.png


Picture5.png
 
I personally would put the "pedal pucks" directly on the back of the pedals as that way the vibrations are transmitted much more directly into yout feet.

For a trial run just ziptie them to the pedals and see for yourself.

Shakers in the heel plate is a different story as:
isolation would be prefereable as you mentioned above and
my heels have little to no contact to the heel plate when braking/accelerating.

II you like the pucks in the backrest try the same approach in the seat bottom by shoving a board with pucks between springs and cushion.

You probably can forgo isolation that way (which would spare you much grief with brake flex btw)

A lot of people dream of left/right separation, not sure that someone was completely successful in that regard.
Though your seat type should make it easier than a bucket seat.
 
Last edited:

Latest News

Do you prefer licensed hardware?

  • Yes for me it is vital

  • Yes, but only if it's a manufacturer I like

  • Yes, but only if the price is right

  • No, a generic wheel is fine

  • No, I would be ok with a replica


Results are only viewable after voting.
Back
Top