We have a race tonight on rF2 if anyone here is free and interested
rF2 *Special Event* FIA WSC Group C - Fuji Film Cup '90 - Fri 30 December 2022 (Including real life race watch-along!)
- Thread starter Ole Marius Myrvold
- Start date
rFactor 2 Racing Club event
Finally got a gear shift mount coming for the rig so I'll be attaching that tomorrow along with my clutch pedal. I'll give the cars a go tomorrow and let you know
Awesomesauce!
@Colin Peach you are now on the list!
Hmmm, you can't combine both? I see WINDSHIELDOUT and WINDSHIELDIN are the only ones used by the mod itself, and the one custom livery I have here.
This is the custom livery I have in my Gr.C folder: https://mega.nz/file/rcMmyCLT#yGTff7Zyz-YI-2d0XHU3nBB9_VterW7wkxOw6lPfvMY (TRUST99 - no idea what car that actually is
)
DECISION ON WEATHER:
As the weather forecast at Suzuka is sun, sun and more sun IRL. The race in 1990 was slicks all race as well, and avg. temperatue in April (when the race was) is 15-16 degrees.
So I'll change air temp on server to 16 degrees, and it will be dry
As the weather forecast at Suzuka is sun, sun and more sun IRL. The race in 1990 was slicks all race as well, and avg. temperatue in April (when the race was) is 15-16 degrees.
So I'll change air temp on server to 16 degrees, and it will be dry
SERVER RESTARTED with 16 degrees air-temp
Not sure I can make it, but I was on the practice server all last night. Found 8 seconds by the end of the night in the Porsche. I was still about 3 sconds off the really fast guy in a Sauber. One thing I found really hard was not being able to see anything in my mirrors in VR. The Porsche has really shallow fov mirrors and they are too far back for easy glances to check, I had a car behind me for half a lap and didn't know it until he bumped past. I hate virtual mirrors and never use them, but they may be needed for the race, Crew Chief would be an option, I guess but I've had issues with it in the past. Just a heads up for people planning on doing the race.
Who knows what strategy that guy was using
That's another cool thing with the event EDIT: I am maybe'ing you
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Yeah, but 10 seconds slower after a few laps I was all "WTF!". But I was on 20 laps fuel and Yokohama tyres and stock boost and wings, so I eventually got up to speed. It's full-on drive on high boost, the car is really on a knife edge. It's going to be a real arm killing night if the cars are running high boost and near to qualy times in the race.
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I dont know with the Porsche, but with the Sauber its not worth doing high boost in the race, the extra pitstop it requires looses you 2 minutes. F.x. 4 boost vs. 10 boost is around 2-3 secs pr lap, or 20-30 secs pr stint, so its not worth it.
This is something I am really looking forward to. The unknown of what strategy people are going to use!
I'm heading to the server in a few hours to finalize stradegy, feel free to join
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I'll be back on for more. I tried the Mazda for a few laps, a bit slower than the Porsche for me in the handful of laps did in it, but it was stable. also, only having the 3 engine maps to worry about is a bonus. Could be a really nice race car
The mind-trick with the Mazda is to not "panic" when the Porsche and Sauber is faster in race trim, and trust the pit strategy and saved time there.
It's easy to get a bit stressed when you are in relation to the other cars, slower in race compared to qual
Yves Larose
Premium
I don't think you can use the windows template as Windshieldout and Windshieldin cause the way i see it the banner is a material on top of the windshield so i'll be stuck with the default banner. In the download section here at RD there is a few skins and the guy used the naming that is provided in the exemple and everything works but the guy have created a team just not a livery. I'll give that a try and see if it works and i'll keep you posted
Edit: The skin in the download section works except for the banner, but it worked at some point cause the pics that are in the post are grabs from the game with the custom windows and banner.
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i found with the mazda, absolutely definitely dont shift before the dash light comes on!!
Rich Green
Premium
Thanks for the tip. It’s the same with most of the historic car classes I’ve tried, they need more finesse with the inputs and lots of practice. As an example, I found the M1 Procars in AMS2 a handful at first, but gradually got the hang of them over time. Most of my Simracing time has been spent with the GT3 class in ACC and I’ve realised that to improve it might be useful to drive cars without the electronics.If you turn the boost down (as you'll have to in the race to avoid too many stops) it'll be much easier to drive
There are differences. Go for the WSC engine
Aerodynamics can be set for high speed tracks or high downforce tracks changing the front wing setting to “Low” (downforce and drag) or “High” (downforce and drag). The rear wing works as a balancer of the front wing, because most of the downforce comes from the ground effect's tunnel below the car. The recommended setting for high speed tracks (Le Mans and Daytona) is “Low” and “0 deg”, while for high downforce tracks is “High” and “9 deg” (or more).
Tyres were thought around warming, not only wear and grip as main target. The R500/Sprint warms more than the others by only rolling, so this compound is good for tracks with long straights with few sections of corners. This tyre maintain the heat better for the next corner, and fit tracks like Sebring, Le Mans, Road America, but at some tracks like Interlagos or Estoril they can't cool down fast enough. The R600/Enduro compound is harder and resist better the long period of cornering. It warms less on the straights, so isn't so good at Le Mans or Sebring where they need some laps to warm up to operational temp.
All the tyres have an operational pressure around 165-170 kpa, and they take 3 to 5 laps to reach the highest pressure. So check the pressure after some test laps to set the cold pressure at the garage. The car jump and move to the sides until the tyres reach higher pressure.
- Goodyear R500 = Dunlop Sprint => (the softer compound)
- Goodyear R600 = Dunlop Enduro => (the hardest compound)
- Yokohama, this brand have an unique compound, the rear rim have a bigger diameter (19"
instead 18") than the other brands. It is a hard compound with slow heating and very stable. It will last longer than the others tyres if it’s used into their thermal window. Excellent for long runs with medium boost.
Rain tyres works well below 80C. This compound could be used while the track remains 60% wet, then it overheat easily.
Engines(Mazda and Porsche) have a 90000 seconds life (25 hours). Oil temp affects the health of the engines making
run the life counter faster or slower. Running the engine with 95C of oil temp is safe for 24 hs, running at 100C is risky but possible, but over 105C can't be assured to reach the finish line.
Running the engine over the rev limiter while upshifting or while downshifting reduce the engine life.
Sauber Engine:
10 turbo positions are available on the simulation, with the most conservative already offering
730hp and pushing hard from a very low 3500rpm. At the highest turbo settings more than 900hp
explode at the wheel, but abuse will overheat the engine and harm tyres prematurely.
Max. recommended rpm: 7000-7200rpm (at 7200rpm engine life is halved) Recommended radiator setting: 5 (Endurance)
Recommended oil temperature range: 112 – 123ºC (at 123ºC life is halved) Recommended boost position: Long endurance: 3 Endurance: 6 Qualifying: 9 Recommended mixture map use:
Lean (rain/save fuel): 1
Rich (maximum power): 2
Recommended engine brake setting:
Short braking distance : 1
Keep corner speed: 4
Is the 2x time accelerated effect engine wear?!
Nope! But maximum boost should cause some issues after a few laps. Every degree over "safe" temp will take more and more life out of the engine.
There is a way to make mechanical wear align with race time. But changing engine lifetime from over 24hrs to 1hr45min needs a lot of testing
Maybe for a future event 
