We have a race tonight on rF2 if anyone here is free and interested
Finally got a gear shift mount coming for the rig so I'll be attaching that tomorrow along with my clutch pedal. I'll give the cars a go tomorrow and let you know
If i name the banner WINDSHIELDOUT and WINDSHIELDIN the banner works but then i'm stuck with what ever it's on the rest of the windows and the lights glass.
I was still about 3 sconds off the really fast guy in a Sauber.
Yeah, but 10 seconds slower after a few laps I was all "WTF!". But I was on 20 laps fuel and Yokohama tyres and stock boost and wings, so I eventually got up to speed. It's full-on drive on high boost, the car is really on a knife edge. It's going to be a real arm killing night if the cars are running high boost and near to qualy times in the race.
I dont know with the Porsche, but with the Sauber its not worth doing high boost in the race, the extra pitstop it requires looses you 2 minutes. F.x. 4 boost vs. 10 boost is around 2-3 secs pr lap, or 20-30 secs pr stint, so its not worth it.
I'll be back on for more. I tried the Mazda for a few laps, a bit slower than the Porsche for me in the handful of laps did in it, but it was stable. also, only having the 3 engine maps to worry about is a bonus. Could be a really nice race car
Hmmm, you can't combine both? I see WINDSHIELDOUT and WINDSHIELDIN are the only ones used by the mod itself, and the one custom livery I have here.
Thanks for the tip. It’s the same with most of the historic car classes I’ve tried, they need more finesse with the inputs and lots of practice. As an example, I found the M1 Procars in AMS2 a handful at first, but gradually got the hang of them over time. Most of my Simracing time has been spent with the GT3 class in ACC and I’ve realised that to improve it might be useful to drive cars without the electronics.If you turn the boost down (as you'll have to in the race to avoid too many stops) it'll be much easier to drive
There are differences. Go for the WSC engine
Aerodynamics can be set for high speed tracks or high downforce tracks changing the front wing setting to “Low” (downforce and drag) or “High” (downforce and drag). The rear wing works as a balancer of the front wing, because most of the downforce comes from the ground effect's tunnel below the car. The recommended setting for high speed tracks (Le Mans and Daytona) is “Low” and “0 deg”, while for high downforce tracks is “High” and “9 deg” (or more).
Tyres were thought around warming, not only wear and grip as main target. The R500/Sprint warms more than the others by only rolling, so this compound is good for tracks with long straights with few sections of corners. This tyre maintain the heat better for the next corner, and fit tracks like Sebring, Le Mans, Road America, but at some tracks like Interlagos or Estoril they can't cool down fast enough. The R600/Enduro compound is harder and resist better the long period of cornering. It warms less on the straights, so isn't so good at Le Mans or Sebring where they need some laps to warm up to operational temp.
All the tyres have an operational pressure around 165-170 kpa, and they take 3 to 5 laps to reach the highest pressure. So check the pressure after some test laps to set the cold pressure at the garage. The car jump and move to the sides until the tyres reach higher pressure.
- Goodyear R500 = Dunlop Sprint => (the softer compound)
- Goodyear R600 = Dunlop Enduro => (the hardest compound)
- Yokohama, this brand have an unique compound, the rear rim have a bigger diameter (19"
instead 18") than the other brands. It is a hard compound with slow heating and very stable. It will last longer than the others tyres if it’s used into their thermal window. Excellent for long runs with medium boost.
Rain tyres works well below 80C. This compound could be used while the track remains 60% wet, then it overheat easily.
Engines(Mazda and Porsche) have a 90000 seconds life (25 hours). Oil temp affects the health of the engines making
run the life counter faster or slower. Running the engine with 95C of oil temp is safe for 24 hs, running at 100C is risky but possible, but over 105C can't be assured to reach the finish line.
Running the engine over the rev limiter while upshifting or while downshifting reduce the engine life.
Sauber Engine:
10 turbo positions are available on the simulation, with the most conservative already offering
730hp and pushing hard from a very low 3500rpm. At the highest turbo settings more than 900hp
explode at the wheel, but abuse will overheat the engine and harm tyres prematurely.
Max. recommended rpm: 7000-7200rpm (at 7200rpm engine life is halved) Recommended radiator setting: 5 (Endurance)
Recommended oil temperature range: 112 – 123ºC (at 123ºC life is halved) Recommended boost position: Long endurance: 3 Endurance: 6 Qualifying: 9 Recommended mixture map use:
Lean (rain/save fuel): 1
Rich (maximum power): 2
Recommended engine brake setting:
Short braking distance : 1
Keep corner speed: 4
Is the 2x time accelerated effect engine wear?!