Skoda 130 RS

Cars Skoda 130 RS 1.9

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Not sure what's the sense with the new rear geo. Perhaps the real geo does have less camber gain than what seems to be my E30 rear that you used as reference, but why almost no toe gain? Toe gain is inherent and it scales with the camber gain in a trailing arm.
 
Not sure what's the sense with the new rear geo. Perhaps the real geo does have less camber gain than what seems to be my E30 rear that you used as reference, but why almost no toe gain? Toe gain is inherent and it scales with the camber gain in a trailing arm.
yes this car has less camber gain than E30 so I adjusted it to the curve I have. But toe values need tweaking as you say, will look on it later, I somehow overlooked it.
 
Thanks I owned one of these back around the mid 80's not the 1.3 they were only built for racing.
Standard version was 1.1 ltr with around 70 BHP .

It was a cheap car to buy 2nd hand in the UK Skoda's had a reputations for been cheap and nasty rust buckets and boring , in the 80's this model was replaced with the updated boxy Skoda's.

Some how I ended up with one of these 1100 RS Rapid Sports ,to be honest I hated the idea of owning one. like most teenagers in the 80's in the UK I wanted a Escort.

But I soon found out this card was amazing to drive and built like a tank with bullet proof mechanicals .

On twisty roads it was a beast bar some brake fade issues with such a low weight 75 bhp goes a long way.

I never tuned it mainly because I did not have the means to do so at that time.
I wanted to do an engine swap using the newer 1.3 engine from a later Skoda 130 these were very easy to find at the time in Scrap yards .

Tuning these engines was not that hard Skoda already fitted twin carbs to these cars and Hi lift cams and bigger valves .

I knew of people getting over 130 BHP out of the 13ltr engine this car had independent front suspension I thing rear trailing arms and with all the weight over the rear wheels .


Yes it could understeer but I never lost the rear end it really was a eastern Europe version of those early Porsche .


The one car I wish I still had having traded it in for a MK 3 Escort a boring car compared.
now I get to drive one again thanks.
 
Thanks I owned one of these back around the mid 80's not the 1.3 they were only built for racing.
Standard version was 1.1 ltr with around 70 BHP .

It was a cheap car to buy 2nd hand in the UK Skoda's had a reputations for been cheap and nasty rust buckets and boring , in the 80's this model was replaced with the updated boxy Skoda's.

Some how I ended up with one of these 1100 RS Rapid Sports ,to be honest I hated the idea of owning one. like most teenagers in the 80's in the UK I wanted an Escort.

But I soon found out this Car was amazing to drive and built like a tank with bullet proof mechanicals .

On twisty roads it was a beast bar some brake fade issues with such a low weight 75 bhp goes a long way.

I never tuned it mainly because I did not have the means to do so at that time.
I wanted to do an engine swap using the newer 1.3 engine from a later Skoda 130 these were very easy to find at the time in Scrap yards .

Tuning these engines was not that hard to tune Skoda already fitted twin carbs to these cars and Hi lift cams and bigger valves as standard

I knew of people getting over 130 BHP out of the 13ltr engine in the later models the more boxy car . they won their class in Rallying most of the time even in Group B .

There are even stories of the Skoda Team Europe raiding local breakers yards for Parts during rally's during the Lombard RAC Rally in the UK to repair their cars.

they all had independent front suspension I thing rear trailing arms and with all the weight over the rear wheels .


Yes it could understeer but I never lost the rear end it really was a eastern Europe version of those early Porsche .


The one car I wish I still had having traded it in for a MK 3 Escort a boring car compared.
now I get to drive one again thanks.
 
Last edited:
Fuzo updated Skoda 130 RS with a new update entry:

Update 1.9

Updates and fixes in version 1.9
  • reworked car aero according to data from aero simulation software (thx Robert Habinak)
  • improved engine power curve according to real data
  • reworked the whole suspension animations to constraint type instead of fixed animations
  • fixed water temp needle missing lighting definition
  • adjusted tire rims ET offsets and brake disc location in LOD A and B
  • fixed tire material values
  • added some animations controlled with CSP extra...

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
Oh dear, don't tell me you used CFD to make the aero? In a best case scenario CFD is only "quite wrong" instead of "very wrong". :D

Perhaps for a car like this it matters less, but watch out, because if the entire frame of the entire car, with all the holes and openings, bumps and indents are not modeled, you can get *dramatically* different values from reality. This is assuming the car is an accurate CAD model, but just has a mostly abstracted underbody and engine bay.

Putting a game model into CFD is unthinkable, of course.

It's better than nothing, but often a good guess is better than bad CFD.
 
oh dear, mod police here... Aero was done by a person who actually knows what he is doing, he does it for more than 10 years, won couple of awards in this area, has a lot of experience and I fully trust him.
Great. Then I assume he already knows what I'm talking about. Like I said, unless the model for the CFD is very good, and even then, you still need expertise. These things are extremely clear to anyone who has worked with CFD, yet for some reason you take it like an attack.
 
I see you guys made the rear trailing arm using STRUT. If it's really a trailing arm and doesn't actually behave like a strut in that geometry, I'd suggest you use DWB and graph the camber and toe curve properly, then lower the assembly to reach the real roll center, adjust for anti-forces in AC then try to match curves/whatever you deem important.

But if it's really a normal (semi) trailing and you did it like this, I guess it's cute. :roflmao:
I would really like to know how this anti-forces (such as anti-squat/lift) is adjusted in the suspension.ini.
Currently we are working on a private mod of Datsun 510, and I cannot figure out how to get rid of the rear lift under throttle. It helped when I lowered the height of the pivots, both DWB. But I do not observed that on the E30 you did.
 

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