Show us your Rig / Cockpit

Only offered as advice...

You raise a good point, not going into deep detail here but sound/vibration deadening materials should be placed on a section below the seat and between or on the base of the rig. Its purpose is to reduce the vibes going into the section below and into the floor. Neoprene may of fixed resonance issues and using steel for a section this large rather than aluminum but these things need testing.

It does not make sense to apply this to the same surface/material the tactile is bolted too. Then this bolted to the seat. Also for seat supports or seat rails. Having units placed on individual plates (no horizontal bridge between left/right) would maintain stereo into the seat.

Placing two units on the same material/plate is a common mistake for loss of performance and this then bolted to the seat will not maintain their independent vibrations. Therefore stereo based effects will not perform well at all and feel like mono. You see this also done on many people's pedal platforms.
Let's just say that, it's not ideal at all in maintaining stereo positional vibes to your body.

*In the above both units are wired together so it appears as being used in dual mono.

MDF can offer decent vibes but it can present some reverb, metal like steel and then aluminum is usually preferable.
 
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Only offered as advice...

You raise a good point, not going into deep detail here but sound/vibration deadening materials should be placed on a section below the seat and between or on the base of the rig. Its purpose is to reduce the vibes going into the section below and into the floor. Neoprene may of fixed resonance issues and using steel for a section this large rather than aluminum but these things need testing.


It does not make sense to apply this to the same surface/material the tactile is bolted too. Then this bolted to the seat. Also for seat supports or seat rails. Having units placed on individual plates (no horizontal bridge between left/right) would maintain stereo into the seat.

Placing two units on the same material/plate is a common mistake for loss of performance and this then bolted to the seat will not maintain their independent vibrations. Therefore stereo based effects will not perform well at all and feel like mono. You see this also done on many people's pedal platforms.
Let's just say that, it's not ideal at all in maintaining stereo positional vibes to your body.

*In the above both units are wired together so it appears as being used in dual mono.

MDF can offer decent vibes but it can present some reverb, metal like steel and then aluminum is usually preferable.
thanks for the advice.
 
  • Deleted member 197115

If anyone wondering, this is speakon 4 pole connector, stereo wiring.

And aluminum plate alone without dynamat was buzzing like hell. YMMV.

To get decent stereo separation units must be mounted on chassis, seat mount will always have stereo cross-talk, bridged mount or not, they are bridged via the seat itself anyway and too close to each other.
But seat mount lets have the strongest feedback.
 
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Monitors looks a little too high for my taste... Imho your physical wheel should replace the view of the virtual wheel/dash (physical wheel should take about 30 yo 40% of the bottom half of your monitor). That way you can look straight ahead instead of looking "up," and your eyes up the road being able to see just over the wheel like an f1, lmp, gt3 driver for example. Watching cockpit view of the pros, looks like they can barely see over the wheel, but it looks really kool, I tried to do the same with my sim racing rig.

Regardless! Love your SETUP!
They have to be high.
He has an SFX100 full motion rig and if the monitors were any lower his wheel motor would hit them and destroy them.
You can mount monitors to the rig, but then they shake to bits.

Also (I cant quite tell if its 'on'), but when the SFX is on and in its parked position it raises 2 inches.
 
@SOLO59
can you put pictures
Thanks

The pic below is my setup in AC.
My Monitor: Acer, 32:9 ratio, 3840x1080p, 120hz, 49 inches (curved)
I sit 32 inches away from my monitor
IN-Game FOV - set to 40 degrees (including seat fwd/back and height adjustments.)

An online FOV calculator recommended an FOV of 71 degrees. But on this monitor, anything over about 42 degrees looks stretched. 40 degrees seems really good. I placed the camera in front of my eyes... Just over my wheel, I can see a bit of the dash, then the road. With this setup, allows me to keep my head "straight ahead - not looking up like at the drive-in movies," and my eyes looking up the road, maintaining realism while driving. just like a real car, your head looks straight ahead and your eyes looking up the road.
That's why I cringe a little, looking at setups with monitors too high or too far away from the driver. If something is in the way of you bringing your monitor closer, I'd suggest VR or make every effort possible to bring the monitor right behind your wheel base.


MY FOV new (2).png


A side note - Anyone having issues with freesync brightness flickering, try using an older AMD driver. I recently switched back to a Nov/2017 AMD driver... Run my games in borderless (freesync works in borderless), screen still might flicker but alt-tab fixes it, sometimes gotta alt-tab twice but still works... and no more annoying screen flickering. AMD gotta fix freesync. For a month, thought my new monitor was defective. It's the AMD drivers (I also purchased Magic Borderless on steam to ensure "alt-tab" works correctly in all my games. In-Game Borderless mode in RF2 and alt-tabing still causes problems for me. But Magic Borderless is simply works!)
 
Building my first cockpit. Not much but is a beginning
View attachment 347956
thats how i started. Its a good start. Now i have a seat and the rear seat attachment. So basically a full sim rig now for a fraction of the cost. If you think you might upgrade, I suggest ordering the rear seat frame now. They were out of stock for a long time and the just got some in. I was waiting a while. And its only 90 bucks ( 85 if you find a coupon code )... I havent set mine up yet but i had to get it before they go out of stock again and risk waiting another year.
 
I didn't want to make a new thread for this, but is anyone using anything to extend the seat pan of their seat/chair on their rig? I'm quite tall @ 6'5", recently picked up the Sparco R333 seat for use on my P1-X/NLRv3, and I'm finding my legs to be unsupported.

From what I could tell when ordering, the R333 has the longest seat pan of all their recline seats, so now I'm looking to extend it with padding or something.

My office chair (DX-Racer King series) has the perfect seat pan length for support, but I don't think there's any way to mount that on seat sliders.

Is anyone doing anything to make their seat more comfortable/supportive for their legs?
 
An online FOV calculator recommended an FOV of 71 degrees. But on this monitor, anything over about 42 degrees looks stretched.

I think you're mixing vfov vs hfov. AC uses vfov and plugging in your numbers I get 23.4 which is what you should be using. I was confused because I have the same size monitor and I'm 20" away and almost have the same fov as your screenshot showed. My fov works out to 36 so it wasn't making sense. I plugged in your numbers and saw the hfov is 72.8 for you, hence, I believe you switched the numbers.
 
Hi All, So i got my Sim Lab GT1 EVO, lovely bit of kit, but the pedal tray looks different to whats on their website and in the photos. My pedal tray looks like the one from the TRS cockpit, not the GT1 EVO cockpit, just wondering if at any point they had changed their pedal plates for the GT1 EVO.

Attached screen shots of the different pedal plates.
 

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The older style pedal tray did not support Heusinkveld pedals properly despite claiming to do so. I think they were redesignig the plate, maybe you got the new style one?
 
Hey Guys!

Here is my setup. Brought mostly in the last month or so, as I finally purchased a laptop good enough to play these sims on! Looking at potentially buying the Porsche rim when it comes out and currently have the SRH button box kit on order.

View attachment 345249View attachment 345250View attachment 345252
I guess i’m not the only one running AC from laptop to +40” external screen (via hdmi cable). Any cpu and gpu thermal/power limit throttling? Assetto runs fine?
 
Upgraded to a direct drive compatible rig with the Trak Racer TR160 from my old RaceRoom RR3033, that was adequate for the Fanatec ClubSport V2.5, but couldn't handle the DD1.

View attachment 348069

I've been looking at the Sim-Lab stuff alot recently but I have to say these 160 length brackets on your Trak Racer look great and seem much more solid than the smaller corner brackets used by Sim-Lab. Whole rig looks fantastic.
 
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I think you're mixing vfov vs hfov. AC uses vfov and plugging in your numbers I get 23.4 which is what you should be using. I was confused because I have the same size monitor and I'm 20" away and almost have the same fov as your screenshot showed. My fov works out to 36 so it wasn't making sense. I plugged in your numbers and saw the hfov is 72.8 for you, hence, I believe you switched the numbers.

I'm gonna try that out! I didn't realize there is hfov and vfov. On the online fov calculator, it gives me 23.4 vfov and 72.8 hfov.

So I'll try between 23 and 26 vfov using AC. Thank you for clearing that up for me!
I think 23 to 26 vfov will be really close despite seat adjustment. Thank goodness for trackir!!!
 
@SOLO59 I use this online fov calculator. It offers a simple graphic that nicely shows the changes in hfov and vfov when adjusting the various parameters.

Yes, your fov will be drastically different from what you've gotten used to. I don't know your setup but I would recommend you try to get your screen closer. I couldn't imagine being further than 24". I'm still adjusting to 20" but the increased fov is really nice.
 

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