read more: FFB Tweaks

I've worked with x4fab to add a new feature to the Custom Shaders Patch (as of 0.1.51) and the description is fairly brief so I thought it's worth going into a bit more detail about what this does.

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Gyro Implementation

[ ] Active check to enable
Strength 25% adjust effect strength
AC has an "Experimental Gyro" FFB effect whose purpose was adding gyroscopic effects to the steering. It never lost the experimental tag and all it's generally recommended for is damping down oscillations on direct drive wheels.
This is that, developed slightly further based on my understanding of the nature of gyroscopic forces. I have a pretty solid case for making this change, and I believe this force exists in actual cars, and AC's original experimental gyro does not.

The developed version still suits the purpose of damping oscillations, but more importantly it decouples the body from the front wheels - so if the front wheels are pointing in a direction and the body moves around them, no gyroscopic precession happens, and no force is generated. Concretely, what we're talking about here is oversteer - on the original experimental gyro, the force acts counter to self-alignment during oversteer. With this new implementation, self-alignment is allowed to occur freely, or, if the oversteer is so quick that the wheels can't self-align, it'll actually push in the direction of alignment.

25% is simply equivalent to the original force multiplier used on experimental gyro when merging it with other FFB forces. Ultimately, the same as the other amplification ffb effects like road and slip effect, the slider is available to magnify it if your hardware's limitations are obscuring the effect.
As of CSP 0.1.53 the strength slider is outdated. A calculation using the suspension geometry now provides the right precession-based force for each car.
The description is a little bit misleading; this replaces "Experimental Gyro" so disabling it is superfluous, if this is Active, experimental gyro is not. Still, it won't hurt to disable experimental gyro and be certain it's off.

Now that I've said what the intent is, I will also note the following: this changes FFB in pretty much every dynamic situation. It's not just an improvement for drift cars or for vintage cars that oversteer constantly; any time the car moves around on the tires it feels slightly different from before. To me, it's a positive change, it's clearer what the car is doing, and I have heard similarly positive comments from testers. Nonetheless, I am not omniscient, I have not driven all these cars in real life, it's up to you to decide whether it improves your game or gives you better sim feeling the rubber or what. Modifying games to improve the FFB is a fine tradition starting with some extremely thorough efforts in rfactor1, and this is no different (maybe a bit easier to install).

I will note that it slightly increases max forces when cornering so if you have stuff set up to barely clip, you'll need an adjustment downward in global ffb mult.

Range Compression

Range compression 100% - 100% is the "default off" of this effect
[ ] Range compression assist - check to convert cars' "steer assist" into range compression.

New FFB Tweak available as of 0.1.53. The name comes from the audio world, where dynamic range compression means bringing up the quiet sounds while leaving loud sounds at their original volume. This is a much more second derivative friendly version of the Gamma effect.

The percentage is straightforward: Set it to how much you want to multiply small forces. Or adjust it in sync with your overall gain if you want to maintain the level of small forces and change large forces. For example, 200% compression + 50% gain = original 100% on small forces, larger forces decrease. If you're curious, the curve at the point of maximum force is simply the inverse, 200% compression will cause large forces 50% of the original delta in force. But in combination with 50% gain, you're moving the original maximum force downward and the ceiling before the game clips is much higher.

Think of this like power steering: you only want it to assist the heavy forces and give you maximum feel of the light forces.

This is very much an "adjust to taste" thing, it operates smoothly enough that you're safe running it upward of 300%, and I have seen IRL data indicating that manufacturers effectively go as high as 600% in power steering systems, when they want to bring 20+N forces down to a comfortable 2-3N.

Steer assist is a built in per-car feature of AC that applies a gamma function to that car's FFB. If you check Range compression assist, then FFB Tweaks will calculate an appropriate range compression adjustment, and disable steer assist. This should give you a far more normal FFB feeling (no weird bumps around center) while retaining the original goal of giving high downforce cars enough low-speed FFB to be drivable.
 
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Google translate:
Good afternoon.
The problem is disabling most of the CSP functions. From CSP I only need FFB Tweaks. Improved graphics and so on greatly reduces my FPS (I have a weak computer). The problem is that even if all CSP functions are disabled, except for FFB tweaks, the weather, textures, etc. will still change. Is there any way to disable everything except FFB tweaks?
Weather should be disabled if you uncheck "WeatherFX" and "LightingFX" categories entirely. To get rid of texture changes you need to go here in all these categories:
UjiW8Gv.jpg

Pick the "..." menu and uncheck install automatically, then you can delete any it downloaded.

Stuff in "general patch settings" has some optimizations that can make the game run better than vanilla so you should leave them enabled unless they cause issues - "multithreaded loading" and "smoother loading" are the main ones that don't work.
 
Weather should be disabled if you uncheck "WeatherFX" and "LightingFX" categories entirely. To get rid of texture changes you need to go here in all these categories:
UjiW8Gv.jpg

Pick the "..." menu and uncheck install automatically, then you can delete any it downloaded.

Stuff in "general patch settings" has some optimizations that can make the game run better than vanilla so you should leave them enabled unless they cause issues - "multithreaded loading" and "smoother loading" are the main ones that don't work.
google translate:
In which directory should you delete files? Didn't find how to delete in CM.

В какой директории удалять файлы? Не нашел, как удалять в CM.
 
google translate:
I deleted everything, disabled everything at all, except for the general patch settings ... in the game -10 fps. If you turn off general patch settings and start the default game: +10 fps. CSP eats FPS by the very fact of its existence.

Всё удалил, отключил вообще всё, кроме general patch settings... в игре -10 фпс. Если выключить general patch settings и запустить дефолтную игру: +10 фпс. CSP ест фпс самим фактом своего существования.
 

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google translate:
I deleted everything, disabled everything at all, except for the general patch settings ... in the game -10 fps. If you turn off general patch settings and start the default game: +10 fps. CSP eats FPS by the very fact of its existence.

Всё удалил, отключил вообще всё, кроме general patch settings... в игре -10 фпс. Если выключить general patch settings и запустить дефолтную игру: +10 фпс. CSP ест фпс самим фактом своего существования.
You should leave the general patch settings at default. Yes, it might take some fps simply running, but the optimizations should get more than that back.
I gain about 30% fps with just the general patch settings at default compared to no csp at all.

Did you disable the automatic install and delete all the files for:
Cars configs, cars vao, cars textures, tracks configs, tracks vao?
 
You should leave the general patch settings at default. Yes, it might take some fps simply running, but the optimizations should get more than that back.
I gain about 30% fps with just the general patch settings at default compared to no csp at all.

Did you disable the automatic install and delete all the files for:
Cars configs, cars vao, cars textures, tracks configs, tracks vao?
google translate: Yes, I deleted everything. And turned off the automatic installation.. Made general patch settings by default, still -10 fps.
Да, я всё удалил. И отключил автообновление. Сделал general patch settings по умолчанию, всё равно -10 фпс.
 
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google translate: I installed version 0.1.60 and fps became normal. But FFB tweaks settings are not complete = (
Я установил версию 0.1.60 и фпс стал нормальный. Но настройки FFB tweaks не полные =(

update: Installed version 0.1.68. FPS is normal, FFB tweaks with full settings. Thank you all for your help and advice!
 
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Hi all, first of all, I am not an expert
I am an owner of Fanatec CSW 2.5; in their recommende settings Fanatec suggest to activate the AC "Gyro" (in .ini file).

My question to the CSW 2.5 owners is if they use the original AC-Gyro or the CSP-Gyro version

I drive open wheel cars

Any help would be much appreciated. A great thank you
 
Hi all, first of all, I am not an expert
I am an owner of Fanatec CSW 2.5; in their recommende settings Fanatec suggest to activate the AC "Gyro" (in .ini file).

My question to the CSW 2.5 owners is if they use the original AC-Gyro or the CSP-Gyro version

I drive open wheel cars

Any help would be much appreciated. A great thank you
Csp gyro!
The reason is simple and described in the first post of this thread:
When you're accelerating at corner exit with the steering wheel almost straight and the rear wheels slightly slipping and then get oversteer and start to really slide and lose the rear, the original Kunos gyro will dampen the wheel movement.

That's wrong though, since during oversteer, the car moves around the front wheels, while the frontwheels are still pointing straight and have grip. So the frontwheel grip is working against the inner resistance of the steering rack (which isn't much, which is why in real life the steering wheel spins super fast when losing the rear).

The faster the steering wheel turns, the less likely the frontwheels will lose grip.

Which is why catching a slide with a csw 2.5 is a lot easier than with a slow Logitech wheel.

The csp gyro always has the same direction of the frontwheels like it should be in reality, so the damping effect vanishes during oversteer and only comes back when you arrive in a "stable drift position" where you actually turn the frontwheels if you're steering.

It's a bit different and "weird" if you're used to the "wrong" Gyro or no gyro. But I really like the csp gyro!
 
Hi there.
I just got my CSL DD a few days ago and i Love it. But iam not sure If ia am happy with the suggested settings. I dialed in the settings from fanatec for AC.
The wheel only builds up its strong forces when G loads are building up in corners or bumps over curbs.
But driving straight the wheel has absolutely no resistance in the Center an 30 degrees left and right.
Even with old big tyre cars, much to light exept for fast Corners.
What can i change to have a realistic wheel resistance?

Thank you :)
 
Hi there.
I just got my CSL DD a few days ago and i Love it. But iam not sure If ia am happy with the suggested settings. I dialed in the settings from fanatec for AC.
The wheel only builds up its strong forces when G loads are building up in corners or bumps over curbs.
But driving straight the wheel has absolutely no resistance in the Center an 30 degrees left and right.
Even with old big tyre cars, much to light exept for fast Corners.
What can i change to have a realistic wheel resistance?

Thank you :)
A real car without powersteering has a similar characteristic. You should increase friction in the wheel driver. If you want to mimic power steering, try using high values of Range Compression in the CSP FFB Tweaks settings.
 
A real car without powersteering has a similar characteristic.
I can second this from the carsharing Smarts we had here in Hamburg a few years ago. Now they are all swapped for the newer Smart model with powersteering but the original Smarts were pretty "weird and empty" around the center.
You should increase friction in the wheel driver.
Yep, I can second this too.

When I tried the CSL DD for 2 days, I used 50% friction and 50% inertia with 20% "natural damping"/(drift mode). Wheel was responsive and swift but felt really nice and like there would be a real car with some weight behind the steering rod.

Here are my settings, although I'd say it's the wrong thread...
Advanced mode settings:
FF: 100
Sen: 900°
FFS: LIN vs PEA: peak
damper, NDP: 20-30
friction, NFR: 50
inertia, NIN: 50
interpolation, INT: 5
intensity, FEI: 80
FOR, SPR, DPR default at 100

And then 75% gain in AC, 100% car gain, 900°, 0% min force, csp gyro, no ffb post processing.
And:
View attachment 514964
 
Thank you very much for sharing!
I will try these settings when iam back home.
75% gain?
I have it at 55% and have to dial down ffb in some cars to avoid clipping. But its very tempting to oversee this clipping in Order to have this extra weight in the wheel :)

Thx!
Do you have 5 Nm or 8 Nm (boost kit)?
If you have 8 Nm I would suggest using around 55% gain like I use with my csw 2.5.
But with only 5 Nm, it wasn't enough average torque to be enjoyable for me... And I normally lower my wheelbase to 75% because I don't really like too strong ffb peaks...

Btw some clipping isn't bad. You should never have clipping while cornering on smooth tarmac, because there the strength dynamic is important to feel the grip level.
But when you get clipping over kerbs or sausage kerbs, it's no issue.
FFB contains direction and strength.
Clipping means the strength won't increase any further, but the direction information is still there.
So do you really need to feel the sausage kerb in full dynamic or is it enough to feel the bump via direction information only?
 
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