Raceroom Racing Experience Wheel / FFB Settings thread.

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Instead of people having to wade through pages upon pages with posts to find Wheel and FFB settings that might work, or might even be out of date, I will do my best to keep this post up to date with links to settings that people find useful.

Please do help me by pointing out useful posts in a reply below or a PM to me.

Fanatec GT3 / CSR
No info yet...

Fanatec CSR Elite
No info yet...

Fanatec CSW v1/v2
Fanatec ClubSport V2 Settings - by @Sean Lander - June 2015

Logitech DFGT
No info yet...

Logitech Momo
No info yet...

Logitech G25/G27
Logitech G27 settings - by @Matej Lakota - June 2015

Simexperience Accuforce wheel
No info yet...

Thrustmaster TX/T300
Thrustmaster T300 settings - by @Jyri Kettunen - June 2015

Thrustmaster T500
Thrustmaster T500 settings - by @Giangiorm - June 2015

 

[Karl Brankin]

50% in R3E.

I will also add, adjusting the FFB in R3E is almost a game in itself and I've spent many, many, many hours fiddling with different settings without ever finding something I'm 100% satisfied with. It's a bit of a frustrating mess, in sims like GSCE or AC you basically just set one thing and then go race but in R3E because there's so many settings you always think you can adjust some things and make it better.

Even after dozens and dozens of hours faffing about with the settings, I still don't really understand what most of them do so it's always a crap shoot. Lateral and vertical force is the two biggest things in my experience, and I prefer both of them to be pretty high. FFB intensity and Steering Force intensity are also two that have a big effect. Most of the other settings don't seem to have much impact on the T300, except maybe Understeer.

I recently learned about three settings you can change in the text file (lowering the FFB steer force grip weight to around 0.5, FFB steer force front grip exponent to around 0.5, and FFB steer force rear grip exponent to around 0.2) and this seems to have made a world of difference for me. You need Notepad++ to edit the .rcs file but it's very easy to do and really improved the feeling of my wheel so far (only been tinkering with it for a couple days).

@Brandon Wright i also have a T300RS and have gone around in circles with the FFB settings to the point where I have made a bit of a mess of them. Do you mind posting your settings please ?

Interesting information about the settings to be adjusted via notepad in the .rcs file too.

Cheers

 

[Brandon Wright]

@Brandon Wright i also have a T300RS and have gone around in circles with the FFB settings to the point where I have made a bit of a mess of them. Do you mind posting your settings please ?

Interesting information about the settings to be adjusted via notepad in the .rcs file too.

Cheers

Well, here's the problem: I end up changing something pretty much every time I turn it on. The settings I have now are fairly different from what I was using last week. After dozens and dozens of hours of faffing about with the settings, I'm still not real sure what any of them do and a lot of them don't seem to really do anything.

I mainly just tinker with the FFB force and FFB effects, the lateral and vertical loads, and the understeer. I like high (max) lateral load, I go back and forth between high and medium vertical force (150-350 usually), and low understeer (20-35). The three newer settings (friction, etc.) don't seem to do much if anything, same with the steering rack. The two FFB effects are to taste depending on how heavy of a wheel you like. Best I can tell, the force is how heavy your wheel gets and the effects are how pronounced/strong the bumps and shakes are.

It drives me mad. If there were just a couple settings like in GSCE or AC I'd just find a setting I like and go drive. But with R3E I always feel like I can find a better combination or tweak out a certain feeling I don't like, so I'm always messing with it and never happy with it.

 

[MikieC]

OMG

just tried these...

well I couldn't use them because of the pedals, but I copied the FFB values over and its the best ive tried!!! wow. I had to increase traction up to 100 and reduce steer sensitivity to 35..

now its better than pcars ffb!! Cheers dude.. Ill have to test more,, but so far so good!!

Hey, so how did you copy the settings? I got downloaded the jyrik_t300.rcs file and renamed it with the one from the Control Set folder for the TX custom wheel. Then I changed the profiler settings to what was recommended, and its not much different, strong lateral force and Kerb vibration (which i had before) but i cant feel grip loss hardly at all, or road vibrations of any sort. I figure i must be doing something wrong

Thanks

 

[MikieC]

There are no bump stops, but the bump side of dampers that can be adjusted. Raising them is not enough. I'll come with a setup suggestion later.

FFB criticism would be more credible if one knew the basics of car setups.

I agree with Msportdan - the FFB just isnt very good. Ive tried basically everything short of modding game files. guess thats next. But FFB is aweful in my opinion. Suprised as the older titles were so good.

 

[theravenousbeast]

I'm pretty sure I've already posted my settings here already but I'll post them again since they work great for me even with the new update. Wheel is DFGT. Doesn't remove the centering force, but it weakens it enough for me and I don't plan on messing with something that works well enough for me.

 

[Paul Jeffrey]

Does anyone have a decent CSWv2 setting they could share please?

@Spinelli maybe (you are my go to guy for this wheel now mate )

Thanks

 

[Peter Klawitter]

hi all, I am completely new to the PC, started with AC, now i am moving to all the genre's games to test it all out, but i am lost in wheel settings. so my request kindly goes out to all those pro's, experienced and knowledgeable racers out here in RD. what would you recommend for me to setup for my CSW V2 + CSP V2 (with shock modified/ upgraded).
thank you all for your help in advance. (and apologies in advance for blunt and amateur post asking for settings!)

 

[Pär Öqvist]

Is there any tip on how to set up the TX? Just installed it first time for several months but ffb is kind of strange.

 

[Peter Klawitter]

same here with CSW V2 + CSP V2, only reason not playing the game, because can't figure out FFB stuff and settings, just feels awkward and not right, and that = no fun to drive and use this game...

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

I shared my CSW v2 settings in some thread on here the other day, I'm not fully satisfied but they made the game enjoyable for me at least, need to dig for them and I'll post here again when I find them.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Here ya go @Kjell Eilertsen. http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/wheel-settings-after-update.92742/page-37#post-2127435

If you read the following posts you'll see my recent discoveries about the FFB and my current settings (though I'm on a T300, I suspect the basic theory somewhat applies to most wheels). I too have struggled with the FFB for many months but I finally feel pretty comfortable with it and have found some good settings.

First thing to remember is that there are 2 or 3 different physics at play depending on the car. Cars with old physics just won't ever feel that great regardless of your FFB settings. But some of the classes just got majorly improved physics and they feel fantastic (DTM '15, GTR3, M1 Procar, Silhouette, Aquila) so to get a true taste of what's on offer I'd suggest sticking mostly to those. It's also recommended to keep the damper/spring/friction settings, as well as the "canned" shift/brake/etc. effects at zero (I keep steering rack at zero too). So really all you need to mess with is the FFB Intensity, Steering Force Intensity, Vert/Lat forces (I find having Lat a bit higher than Vert produces the feeling I like), and Understeer.

To my understanding, this is what the settings do:

FFB Intensity: Overall strength/weight of all effects to the wheel
Steering Force Intensity: How strong effects like bumps are (higher forces means the wheel will react stronger when you encounter bumps from the tarmac or cars/objects)
Vertical Force: Feeling from the road surface and centering strength (higher values create a higher centering force, lower forces transmit less info from the road surface)
Lateral Forces: Determines how heavy the wheel gets in the turns (higher values result in heavier feeling the more you turn the wheel)
Understeer: Determines how much you feel the wheels slipping when you lose grip

I could be a bit off on some of those, but I've literally spent dozens and dozens of hours fiddling with the settings and this is how I've interpreted them to work. My current settings for my T300 are below.

FFB Intensity: 65%
Smoothing: 0%
Damper, Spring and Friction: 0%
Steering Force Intensity: 115%
Understeer: 30%
Vertical Load: 125%
Lateral Load: 150%
Steering Rack: 0%
All canned vibrations and shift effects: 0%

(Thrustmaster Profiler is 85/100/100/0/0)

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

While the wheels are kind of similar I personally think such high Lateral makes my wheel WAY too heavy, but it's not all about wheel difference, it's also a matter of personal preference, I don't like my wheel heavy.

Oh and thanks for finding the link ^^

 

[Brandon Wright]

It's currently a little heavier than I'd like, but I do prefer a bit of weight to my wheel when in the turns. Not like a tank or anything, just a nice, progressive weight. I'm not sure what the difference in force is between the CSW and the T300, so what looks like heavy settings on yours may not be that heavy on mine? But, yeah, right now it is a bit heavier than I think it should be but nothing extreme (depending on the car). I'll probably dial a few things back a little, but I do know that the key for me is to have higher lateral than vertical, otherwise the wheel seems to get lighter in the turns instead of heavier.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

It's currently a little heavier than I'd like, but I do prefer a bit of weight to my wheel when in the turns. Not like a tank or anything, just a nice, progressive weight. I'm not sure what the difference in force is between the CSW and the T300, so what looks like heavy settings on yours may not be that heavy on mine? But, yeah, right now it is a bit heavier than I think it should be but nothing extreme (depending on the car). I'll probably dial a few things back a little, but I do know that the key for me is to have higher lateral than vertical, otherwise the wheel seems to get lighter in the turns instead of heavier.

Dunno the numbers for the T300/TX, but a T500 has a max torque of ~5 - 5,5nM and a CSW v2 ~7,5nM, the T300/TX is a bit weaker than a T500.

Edit: These are numbers from the top of my head, I might be off a few decimals but I should be in the general ballpark. For comparison I think the Accuforce wheel is about 13nM and a Bodnar wheel is 20nM.

Edit2: It should be Nm, not nM... ><

 

[Brandon Wright]

Dunno the numbers for the T300/TX, but a T500 has a max torque of ~5 - 5,5nM and a CSW v2 ~7,5nM, the T300/TX is a bit weaker than a T500.

Edit: These are numbers from the top of my head, I might be off a few decimals but I should be in the general ballpark. For comparison I think the Accuforce wheel is about 13nM and a Bodnar wheel is 20nM.

Edit2: It should be Nm, not nM... ><

So, that would suggest that, say, a FFB Intensity setting of 75 on your CSW would feel heavier than the same setting on a T300, since the CSW is capable of generating more torque?

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

So, that would suggest that, say, a FFB Intensity setting of 75 on your CSW would feel heavier than the same setting on a T300, since the CSW is capable of generating more torque?

Potentially yes, but let's say I'm running my wheel at 75 and I'm barely clipping, if you run your wheel at 75 you will feel less resistance (weight) in the wheel (aka less muscle needed to counter the wheels force), but you'll also be clipping a lot more, so some of the details in the FFB signal will be lost.
That's one reason why I prefer to run a little looser wheel, let's me feel more details without clipping, as well as not having to break a sweat from turning 2-3 laps fighting my wheel.
I also tend to think it feels more realistic, but that's 100% my perception, I expect a stationary car with no powersteering to be a manhandle to turn the wheel but once you're rolling it should turn pretty effortlessly.

 

[Brandon Wright]

I hadn't thought about the difference in clipping, good to know. We don't have a clipping meter here so I just try to base R3E on what I feel in AC when I know there isn't clipping. It's lighter than in my real car, but my Mini has pretty dang heavy steering. I never brake a sweat or get tired arms with the T300, but I'm used to a heavy wheel from many years of console racing when I didn't know what clipping was.

 

[jimortality]

What are the best tracks to get the best feel from? have they all been updated now?

 

[BoogerMac]

Can someone link me to some G27 setups for post-update? I'm still using my pre-update controls and not a huge fan. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Peter Klawitter]

thank you guys , will start up this weekend and give it a try and play with R3E see how it goes, appreciate your posts and links in helping "dummies" like me.