Raceroom Racing Experience Wheel / FFB Settings thread.

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Instead of people having to wade through pages upon pages with posts to find Wheel and FFB settings that might work, or might even be out of date, I will do my best to keep this post up to date with links to settings that people find useful.

Please do help me by pointing out useful posts in a reply below or a PM to me.

Fanatec GT3 / CSR
No info yet...

Fanatec CSR Elite
No info yet...

Fanatec CSW v1/v2
Fanatec ClubSport V2 Settings - by @Sean Lander - June 2015

Logitech DFGT
No info yet...

Logitech Momo
No info yet...

Logitech G25/G27
Logitech G27 settings - by @Matej Lakota - June 2015

Simexperience Accuforce wheel
No info yet...

Thrustmaster TX/T300
Thrustmaster T300 settings - by @Jyri Kettunen - June 2015

Thrustmaster T500
Thrustmaster T500 settings - by @Giangiorm - June 2015

 

[Brandon Wright]

appreciate your posts and links in helping "dummies" like me.

With the FFB in R3E, we've all been dummies at some point, and I still feel like one at times. It's really just a matter of trial and error most of the time, and you'll probably never fully quit tinkering with the settings, and you'll find that settings that feel good on newer cars might not feel good on older cars with older physics, and at some point you might actually go mad trying to figure it all out, but on those occasions where it all feels good it will put a big smile on your face.

 

[Craig Stevenson]

Here ya go @Kjell Eilertsen. http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/wheel-settings-after-update.92742/page-37#post-2127435

If you read the following posts you'll see my recent discoveries about the FFB and my current settings (though I'm on a T300, I suspect the basic theory somewhat applies to most wheels). I too have struggled with the FFB for many months but I finally feel pretty comfortable with it and have found some good settings.

First thing to remember is that there are 2 or 3 different physics at play depending on the car. Cars with old physics just won't ever feel that great regardless of your FFB settings. But some of the classes just got majorly improved physics and they feel fantastic (DTM '15, GTR3, M1 Procar, Silhouette, Aquila) so to get a true taste of what's on offer I'd suggest sticking mostly to those. It's also recommended to keep the damper/spring/friction settings, as well as the "canned" shift/brake/etc. effects at zero (I keep steering rack at zero too). So really all you need to mess with is the FFB Intensity, Steering Force Intensity, Vert/Lat forces (I find having Lat a bit higher than Vert produces the feeling I like), and Understeer.

To my understanding, this is what the settings do:

FFB Intensity: Overall strength/weight of all effects to the wheel
Steering Force Intensity: How strong effects like bumps are (higher forces means the wheel will react stronger when you encounter bumps from the tarmac or cars/objects)
Vertical Force: Feeling from the road surface and centering strength (higher values create a higher centering force, lower forces transmit less info from the road surface)
Lateral Forces: Determines how heavy the wheel gets in the turns (higher values result in heavier feeling the more you turn the wheel)
Understeer: Determines how much you feel the wheels slipping when you lose grip

I could be a bit off on some of those, but I've literally spent dozens and dozens of hours fiddling with the settings and this is how I've interpreted them to work. My current settings for my T300 are below.

FFB Intensity: 65%
Smoothing: 0%
Damper, Spring and Friction: 0%
Steering Force Intensity: 115%
Understeer: 30%
Vertical Load: 125%
Lateral Load: 150%
Steering Rack: 0%
All canned vibrations and shift effects: 0%

(Thrustmaster Profiler is 85/100/100/0/0)

I've been messing about with settings for my T500 since R3E was released, I have REALLY struggled to get a setting that I could drive with, especially with DTM's etc. I've just plugged those settings in and it's like a new game, gotta do some more testing tonight but right now I am in Sim Heaven

 

[Brandon Wright]

I've been messing about with settings for my T500 since R3E was released, I have REALLY struggled to get a setting that I could drive with, especially with DTM's etc. I've just plugged those settings in and it's like a new game, gotta do some more testing tonight but right now I am in Sim Heaven

Glad they were of some help. It appears as though my T300 is beyond saving, so it looks like I'll be ordering a CSW V2 w/ CSL rim this Friday which means I'll get to go through the R3E FFB madness all over again! Yay!!

 

[Msportdan]

brandon you buying a wheel just to make RRe work bettr?

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

brandon you buying a wheel just to make RRe work bettr?

I read it as his T300 is broken and he needs a new wheel...

 

[Brandon Wright]

brandon you buying a wheel just to make RRe work bettr?

No, the T300 was messed up in all sims. It actually felt kinda ok in R3E, didn't go limp in the turns, but still wasn't right and felt very numb. So, I'm hoping to send it back to Thrustmaster to get repaired and then just keep it around for a backup.

The CSW arrived yesterday but apparently I didn't get it setup properly and ran into a few problems. I think it's all minor stuff and should be easy to get sorted. It worked briefly (though I don't think it was 100% right) and I had a quick go in R3E, it felt light around center and incredibly heavy in the turns. I cranked the Vert/Lat down to around 50 which made it better but was still too light in the center and too heavy in the turns. This may have been due to a calibration error, apparently I'm supposed to hold in the two joysticks and press the "setting" button in order for it to calibrate correctly, I was not aware of this and didn't do it. When I tried to update the firmware it stops half way through the calibration and just flashes CAL on the rim. I think doing the above procedure should mend it.......hopefully.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

No, the T300 was messed up in all sims. It actually felt kinda ok in R3E, didn't go limp in the turns, but still wasn't right and felt very numb. So, I'm hoping to send it back to Thrustmaster to get repaired and then just keep it around for a backup.

The CSW arrived yesterday but apparently I didn't get it setup properly and ran into a few problems. I think it's all minor stuff and should be easy to get sorted. It worked briefly (though I don't think it was 100% right) and I had a quick go in R3E, it felt light around center and incredibly heavy in the turns. I cranked the Vert/Lat down to around 50 which made it better but was still too light in the center and too heavy in the turns. This may have been due to a calibration error, apparently I'm supposed to hold in the two joysticks and press the "setting" button in order for it to calibrate correctly, I was not aware of this and didn't do it. When I tried to update the firmware it stops half way through the calibration and just flashes CAL on the rim. I think doing the above procedure should mend it.......hopefully.

This was exactly how my CSW v2 felt after the last physics/ffb update and was what spawned my crazy FFB settings posted earlier

 

[Brandon Wright]

This was exactly how my CSW v2 felt after the last physics/ffb update and was what spawned my crazy FFB settings posted earlier

Ok, good to know it's not just something on my end. I'll try your settings once I get it up and running, it looks like I'll need a totally different approach to FFB settings in all my sims because this thing puts out some mega force. When I first tried AC the in-game gain was on 100 (and I presume in the profiler too since I couldn't open it and change it) and I literally could not move the wheel more than ~45 degrees in either direction. Turned the in-game gain down to 50 and that made it much better, still pretty heavy but not even close to clipping.

Have you ever had it fail calibration and flash CEL? I think pushing the two joysticks and the setting button at the same time on the formula rim should fix it, based on what I've read this morning.

Also, what settings do you use in the profiler? I just looked at your R3E settings and they're not far off from what I was using last night, only real difference is you have Lat 200 and I had it at 50. I didn't spend much time with it though, just cranked some things way down to see if the extreme heaviness would go away.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Ok, good to know it's not just something on my end. I'll try your settings once I get it up and running, it looks like I'll need a totally different approach to FFB settings in all my sims because this thing puts out some mega force. When I first tried AC the in-game gain was on 100 (and I presume in the profiler too since I couldn't open it and change it) and I literally could not move the wheel more than ~45 degrees in either direction. Turned the in-game gain down to 50 and that made it much better, still pretty heavy but not even close to clipping.

Have you ever had it fail calibration and flash CEL? I think pushing the two joysticks and the setting button at the same time on the formula rim should fix it, based on what I've read this morning.

Also, what settings do you use in the profiler? I just looked at your R3E settings and they're not far off from what I was using last night, only real difference is you have Lat 200 and I had it at 50. I didn't spend much time with it though, just cranked some things way down to see if the extreme heaviness would go away.

Not sure what my profiler is set to, don't think I've ever changed it from default due to the settings menu on the wheel.
I tend to use a bit of drift mode, but I like my wheel a little looser and faster rather than heavy and slow.
Lateral gives a heavy wheel, as does damper and spring settings (both ingame and on wheel) so make sure to turn those down. Damper is a good setting to just add weight to the wheel without changing much else in the FFB signal. Spring is the work of the devil and should be avoided like ebola.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Well, it looks like the CSW is going to get sent back because neither of my rims fit securely to the base and they wobble all over the place (click here for video). Pretty disappointing, but hopefully they'll quickly make it right as there's no way this can be considered acceptable for a $600 piece of equipment.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Whaaat that looks bad!
Does the entire column wobble? Are you able to move it side to side using your hands when there's no wheel attached?
Do you have other rims with the more robust quick release system, if yes, do they wobble as well?

 

[Brandon Wright]

Whaaat that looks bad!
Does the entire column wobble? Are you able to move it side to side using your hands when there's no wheel attached?
Do you have other rims with the more robust quick release system, if yes, do they wobble as well?

The column wiggles a little bit but not much, most of the movement appears to be the rim wobbling around the column, almost like the column has too small of a diameter (in the video you can hear the column bumping against the inside of the rim connecter as it wobbles). I have the formula rim with the quick release system and wobbles exactly the same as the CSL rim, so that leads me to believe it's a problem with the base and not with the rims (unlikely that two different models of rims would have the same exact defect, but it's possible). They're both very snug when going on or coming off (I have to be careful not to punch myself in the face when removing either rim) but something certainly isn't right.

 

[Paul Bennett]

Brandon, you may want to check out Inside Sim Racing site they had a CSL rim delivered during the live show this week, see if there's any comment on this.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Brandon, you may want to check out Inside Sim Racing site they had a CSL rim delivered during the live show this week, see if there's any comment on this.

Since both the CSL and Formula rim behave the same way, I think it's more a problem with the base than the rims. Fanatec responded to my email with a link to contact the appropriate customer service, we'll see what happens.

Edit: Just spoke with Fanatec support and they are "initiating the exchange process" and after seeing the video he believes it is a problem with the base. I imagine it will probably take at least a week or so to get it all shipped and sorted, but at least they're being much more helpful/quick than Thrustmaster support has been.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Good to hear you're getting good help, I've had mostly good experience with Fanatec support myself.
Still a bummer that you got a faulty wheel, such an anti climax. ><

 

[Brandon Wright]

Good to hear you're getting good help, I've had mostly good experience with Fanatec support myself.
Still a bummer that you got a faulty wheel, such an anti climax. ><

Yeah, FML. I'm used to it though, happens all the time. T300 went faulty within a month of having it and ultimately got sent back (and probably going back for a second time here soon). When I got my PC last November the video card was bad so had to send it right back. My previous iPhone (5) would drain the battery within a few hours of being charged, had to have it replaced. Cheap stuff always works fine, but whenever I buy something expensive I pretty presume it's going to be faulty somehow.

 

[Jeroen de Wit]

Anyone here using a Fanatec GT3 RS V2 wheel with R3E? Ever since one of the first "big" FFB updates I can't make the FFB communicative enough to catch slides or really know what the cars are doing. I want to like this game but the struggle with getting some proper settings in is real....

Would like to know if other GT3 RS owners experience the same....

 

[Brandon Wright]

Good news! Turns out the Allen screws inside the column/snout on the base were loose. I finally found an Allen wrench that fit them, tightened them up and now there's no more wobble! When I first checked them with my fingers they felt tight but as I drove with it they got looser and I could hear/see them wiggling, so I dug around and found my other set of wrenches and got them tightened. So now I think everything is all good. I'm going to have to spend some time tweaking FFB in all my sims because this wheel feels so different than previous wheels, and is much stronger. I got R3E feeling pretty good, still a little light around center but it doesn't get overly heavy in the turns now. So, yay!

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Great news Brandon!

 

[Brandon Wright]

Great news Brandon!

Thanks. I think all is well. I have it feeling really good in AC. It's still a bit funny feeling in R3E and I had the FFB go numb on me (lost all feeling from the suspension/tires/road) a couple times last night while tinkering with it. I've had this happen before and it only happens with R3E, restarting the sim fixed it, until it happened again later. rF2 feels a bit weird as well (too heavy in the turns) but I haven't tinkered with it much yet. I had a quick go with Dirt Rally (first time I've played it with a fully functioning wheel) and it felt pretty good, it was just a bit odd feeling but I chalk that up to Codies FFB, still enjoyable though. I haven't tried any other sims yet, but it's good to finally be able to drive/race again.

Here's a quick video of it in action. That slide at the end was totally intentional..........totally.