Podium DD's VS Simucube 2's

Hi guys, the past while I was trying to find good comparisons between these two models of dd's. Has anyone tested both ? I understand that the software for these aren't complete yet but is there any clear winner here ? thanks.
 
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Technically SC1 is not OSW, it was first commercial sim offering from Granite, but it does have some FW source on github, not sure how usable for 3rd party developers though.
For curious minds, some history.
 
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If software is the most important aspect of the DD-steering system, the leader would be SimXperience in my view. As I've said before, if they make a more robust version of the AccuForce (on par with SimuCube2 perhaps), I'd be all over that system because they have established the most versatile tuning-software to date imo.

I'll be very surprised if GD / Fanatec invest the time and resources required to develop tuning options that can compete with what SimXperience has done and I expect SimCommander5 will take things a bit further. Time will tell what DD-makers can bring to the table but, I hope they all offer some uniquely effective solutions for future tuning options.
 
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It looks like isolated case though, most likely defective unit.
I hope so but do you think the following can cause issues:
"I would imagine that over 2-3 hours without being able to cycle/cool that the heat would eventually “migrate” towards the front of the housing from the back plate as well as heat building in the motor itself..."

and from another user

"... have used similar settings with the M8, but around Spa, Gilles and Mt Panorama, Brands and other tracks, without the servo heating up much..."

Without the servo heating up much? I have done a couple 2 or 3 hr, high FFB tests with my OSW & SC1 large Mige and the motor was never even warm let alone hot; it still at that typical cold steel type of feeling.

It concerns me that the motors in the SC2 Pro are even just getting "warm."

EDIT: I thought about this a bit more. If the motor-case is getting warm purely from the heat migrating from the backplate/heatsink then that's actually a good thing as the motor case is helping spreading & getting rid of heat. This would only be a bad thing if it comes at the cost of the internal motor itself heating up more. The internal motor itself remaining cool - regardless of whether the motor's case is helping disperse heat from the backplate or not - is probably all that really matters. Therefore, wouldn't an internal motor temperature truly be what we should be looking for?
 
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I've had my DD1 since launch. No issues here whatsoever. There was some firmware tweaks that made it even better too. Sure you are going to have people have issues and report them. Specially when it's a widely sold product. I'm willing to bet more Fanatec DD bases have been sold then SC and OSW combined. I could be wrong on that but I bet it's close if not more. My point is that when there is a mass produced product there is going to be more problems reported. Specially year 1.

I did not go from a different DD wheel though so I can't help much with comparisons. I came from a CSW v2.5 and the upgrade was well worth it. No way I could go back. I plan to post a review but not until I've had it for 6 months. I just don't think any reviews out there that include a unboxing can really give you a good insight on the wheel. Need some time behind the wheel so to speak. I've been putting it through heavy use with iRacing and Dirt Rally 2.
 
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@Spinelli, everything is possible, I guess.
My Small Mige on Argon doesn't even get luke warm.
With new design, you never know. I just didn't see that issue widely reported, hopefully these are just outliers and not design flaw like the original quick release extension.
Bet SC3 will be perfect. :laugh:
 
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... My point is that when there is a mass produced product there is going to be more problems reported. Specially year 1.

Couldn't agree more. It's why getting a realistic gauge on how these units are doing is difficult, if not impossible. I find that manufacturer's forums can offer some insight. If someone posts an issue and a number of different users start to pile on saying they have the same issue, there might be something there. Even then, though, 10 people may be complaining where 100s - maybe 1000s - may be fine. Case in point, Fanatec's McLaren GT3 wheel. One could get a sense that everyone has had issues with it. I was an early adopter and haven't had a single problem with that wheel. Even in this day and age it is tough to get an accurate gauge on the success of niche products like these DD wheels.
 
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Thanks for linking the review. That was an excellent read and the few small criticisms that were raised were very fair.

That beeping and having to remember to arm the wheelbase every time really do seem like something they should fix. The Fanatec key in the back seems like a good solution by comparison.

The number of steps to get ready to drive just keeps growing.
This is what I do now.

Assuming my rig is configured for what I want to do, otherwise I need to convert from flight to driving or between 2 and 3 pedal layouts

1. Flip switch to provide power to ( computer & front base station & transducer amp )
2. Press computer on button
3. Turn on TV, switch to input 1
4. Flip dedicated switch to turn on 2nd base station
5. Plug Rig outlet into the wall. NLRv3 powers up, cooling fan for me powers up.
6. Press on button for the USB hub
7. Turn on the wheel hub
8. Startup SteamVR and make sure it's set to 120fps.
9. Verify the Audio is using the Index Headphones which don't show up as an option until SteamVR is started.

Woot!!!
The NLRv3 and SimHub software come up automatically and autoswitch between titles automatically !!!!!

10. Start up CrewChief, then click Activate.

*11. Then check SimHub to makes sure it is still activated because sometimes Crew Chief inactivates it.

*It seems like this hasn't been happening as much lately, so maybe this is fixed since the last update.

Now I'll need to turn on High torque setting for the SC2 and deal with beeping on top of that.

<sigh>
 
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Your complexity is your choice.

- Turn on OSW box
- Turn on Pimax
- Start race

The first 2 are optional and if I'm in the mood to do more racing, I'll leave them on which just means step 3.
 
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That should work well. The PSE rim with 50.8mm bolt holes should bolt right up and a 70mm rim should also bolt right up.

I'm making a clean break and will not bother converting any of my wheels over.
 
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