Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[Wmacky]

What would you recommend for a joystick?

The risers are still attached to the pedal deck. I just drop in back in add 4 bolts and reconnect the transducers.

Virpil or Winwing. I just switched to Winwing, and have a unused like new Virpil joystick with 3 extensions for sale, as well as a Virpil throttle unit. Do a google search Here's the winwing

F18 HOTAS (continue update)

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[RCHeliguy]

Edit: Complete change of heart!

I've looked at the base and I'm interested. The dimensions work.

It also looks like this is very flexible.
1. I could attach it from the back and mount it similar to my current base, but without the wooden base.
2. I cold drop it down rotate it 180 degrees reverse map the pitch and use an extension tube.

@Wmacky you are a bad influence my friend!

 

[RCHeliguy]

More toys.

The second seat cushion is a perfect fit and perfect color match!

 

[Wmacky]

That looks perfect! Order going in!

 

[metalnwood]

Bad luck! My stick broke a little while ago - actually more like was broken when someone's kid went for a swing on it - not my kid either

I ended up just getting another hog just for the stick in the end but yes, there are some nice other options about.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The 40x40 profile mount worked, but I didn't like how it looked permanently mounted to the seat.
So I used this 25 series to 40 series adapter angle plate. As before I put UHMW tape on the side of this mount that is touching the seat bracket. SS 6mm bolts with large flanged lock nuts on the inside hold it to the bracket.

I had ordered two options, but I went with the smaller mount since it was completely solid. The smaller mount can also bolt up to the front two holes. The larger mount would fit using 8mm bolts and fit in the slide.

I used a 4 hole joining plate here. The 40x40 profile on the stick side allows this to move front/back.

For the stick I'm not quite where I want to be. I need a longer stem 8mm knob for ease of use. I've ordered some M8 50mm long knobs and M8 5mm wide SS nuts to use as spacers.
The longer t-nut alternative makes it easier to start the profile. Then there is another bolt in front.
The small piece of profile below is substituting for the 40x40 I have running across the front of my seat to show how it bolts up.

Since it looks like I'm changing my flight stick base and probably throttle as well, I'll have to rework how those mount.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I think I finally found the right combination of parts to make good 8mm quick releases.

These aluminum spacers are the key.

Aluminum Spacer 3/4" OD x 5/16" ID x 1/2" L, Round by Metal Spacers Online (25): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Aluminum Spacer 3/4" OD x 5/16" ID x 1/2" L, Round by Metal Spacers Online (25): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Bicycle Seat Clamp quick release with M8 x 50 threaded shafts.

Amazon.com: DEERU Stationary Bike Seat Clamp Bicycle Clamp Quick Release Seatpost Quick Release, 2 pcs M8x50 Quick Releases In Package, Black: Home Improvement

Buy DEERU Stationary Bike Seat Clamp Bicycle Clamp Quick Release Seatpost Quick Release, 2 pcs M8x50 Quick Releases In Package, Black: Seat Clamps - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Large Knobs that are easy to grip with a M8 x 50mm threaded shafts for clearance

Amazon.com: COMOK 5pcs M8 x 50 mm Male Thread Screw on Plastic Star Head Clamping Knob Grip, Black : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: COMOK 5pcs M8 x 50 mm Male Thread Screw on Plastic Star Head Clamping Knob Grip, Black : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

These smaller M8x30mm knobs are great for applications where less force and no clearance is needed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHTRNCM

These slide in economy T-nuts are great because they make it very easy to start a piece of profile on the rounded edges and if you have two bolts holding them loose they stay aligned.

40-1982

M8 Double Slide-in Economy T-Nut

8020.net

In this case there isn't enough room for a knob in front, but a quick release works well in that space.

I leave this under the seat with a T-nut on the front and just loosen it when I want to put the flight stick in place. The rounded T-nut is easy to start. Then I slide it back and use the quick release on the captured T-nut in front. Works great!

Once again using the two bolt economy T-nut, I can tighten the knobs when not in use and just loosen them and slide a piece of 40x40 on to the hanging T-nut very easily.

This works great and finally gets me back to being tools free again

J

I may need to revisit my moving pedal plates.

 

[Wmacky]

I like the looks of that quick connect, I'm going to see if I can develop a similar mount. You might want to round the corners of that plate though - Ouch!

 

[RCHeliguy]

I like the looks of that quick connect, I'm going to see if I can develop a similar mount. You might want to round the corners of that plate though - Ouch!

You read my mind!
I just saw a package had been delivered late last night and was up early so I got to play with this before my wife woke up and I had to start helping her to start preparations! Not a good day to have to pull her car out and do anything in my shop.

Looks like my new VIRPIL stick base will be here on Monday and I realized that my existing extension pipe and cord should be compatible with the VIRPIL base. So I'll be able to try things out. Looking forward to my throttle upgrade too.

 

[Wmacky]

It's coming! I'll get it out Saturday, so it should arive shortly after your joystick.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Deja' Vu

My rig has seen a LOT of changes this year. In fact I replaced every single part of my rig and computer and VR system and those parts just piled up in my storage room. This September my daughter got a complete used VR rig for her birthday. For Christmas I just reassembled the entire original rig that I was using this time last year for my son.

I almost have trouble believing that I was using this last year.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I had someone ask me if I was any faster because of my new rig.

There are two things that actually did make a difference. Everything else improves immersion but hasn't had any impact on performance. Granted I started out with good controls.

#1 The most important thing was having a rigid chassis to mount my controls. There is nothing more frustrating than braking hard and having your pedals move or having other controls move. On top of that my original rig would absorb a lot of FFB and make everything feel less crisp. So the Sim-Lab P1 was absolutely the biggest improvement. It also allowed much better placement of controls.

#2 The HE pedals made a big difference as well and required a solid chassis. Being able to adjust the angle, travel, and pressure needed for all 3 pedals helped a lot. I found the CS 3.0 with strong springs installed was just too effortless on the throttle and clutch. It was hard to modulate the throttle when the peddle felt like it just dropped to the floor and I had to actually hold l my foot back. Of course brake modulation is the big deal that really matters as you go around a track. Over time I've adjusted all of the pedals and they really do make a difference.

Everything else has helped immersion but hasn't made me one bit faster.

Some upgrades were trickle down from other upgrades. As an example, after setting my brake pedal to higher pressures, I would get a sore back with my used car seat which otherwise had worked wonderfully. So I got a racing shell which fits me like a glove and gives me the back support I wanted. No sore back after extended sessions

For immersion I still believe that motion and tactile complete the experience in VR and direct drive systems are way way way over hyped. I like my SC 2 Pro and have it configured well. I love my new PSE GT3 wheel and Momo Rally wheel, but they don't make me faster.

Once I have my new flight controls in place, I intend to put a pin in my rig and will call it done. One day I'll consider a full motion setup, but currently they are too bulky for my requirements and I still think they are evolving quite a bit. I love the new NLR traction loss system and I think other motion systems look great, but I think that more fully integrated solutions will evolve.

 

[Wmacky]

You mentioned looking at you pedal layout again. Be sure and update us on any changes. I'm happily stealing many of your ideas. As you know, there are not many dual purpose cockpit examples to follow. I think it's just me, Metalnwood, and you on this forum.

 

[RCHeliguy]

You mentioned looking at you pedal layout again. Be sure and update us on any changes. I'm happily stealing many of your ideas. As you know, there are not many dual purpose cockpit examples to follow. I think it's just me, Metalnwood, and you on this forum.

Right, I initially placed the flight pedals with my legs supported by the stock seat pad that held my legs a couple inches higher. The new seat pad allows me to lower my stick base and legs. When I get the new flight controls in, I'll finalize their placement and then tweak the placement of the flight pedals which will likely be lower by one 40mm increment.

When I get the new flight controls, I'll post pictures of how I mounted them. The VIRPIL base will have a very different mount than the Thrustmaster stick base had since it will bolt directly from the back of the base vs. from underneath and the wood under the base will go away. It should look much cleaner. The Throttle mount will require minor tweaking, but be virtually identical.

I'll post the final locations of everything when I'm done and possibly add a side shot showing the geometry of my body in the rig in flight mode.

 

[Wmacky]

I did notice that we have different style rudder pedals. Mine are the Slaw pedals that have the heal on the ground. I'm still tuning, but I believe this fact will require the rudder pedal to be at the same height as the car pedals.

Can you compare the new seat cushion to the old, one, and how that improves the rig?

 

[Wmacky]

Double post

 

[RCHeliguy]

I think I need to get everything mounted before I say anything conclusive about the seat cushion. My thought is that I want my legs to have more clearance since they move more for flight than driving and I want to lower the stick base as low as possible while having it close, but not too close between my legs.

I think I've figured out how I want to mount the VIRPIL base and I've changed my stick support around, but I'll need the base here before I make a mount plate adapter for it.

 

[Mike McCormick]

You may feel DD systems are over rated and that's fine. However they do give quicker response and something that is hardly ever mentioned is that they are much more reliable than non DD wheels. I also feel more of what the car is doing.

I've had my AccuForce since early 2015 and have had very little issues with it while running over 800 races and numerous practice laps with it in iRacing. I would have worn out several non DD wheels or more during that time.

I believe higher end pedals will do more to make a person faster than a higher end wheel. A do find they both make me more consistent in my lap times

BTW, nice work on your cockpit.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm not trying to make any claims that I am an authority on fidelity with wheelbases. I'm an engineer and I like solving problems and building things. I am definitely a novice at racing. I'm not trying to pass my opinions off as being more than they are.

Hopefully some people can find a few nuggets in this thread that give them ideas that they can apply to their rigs. Past that feel free to ignore any or my personal opinions.

 

[Mike McCormick]

Np, I didn't feel you were. I look forward to your updates as I also like to build things.

I just posted my opinion on DD wheels as I've had mine for a good while. People can agree or not, it's just an opinion.