Isolation for rig on wheels in apartment block inc tactile feedback

[super kermit]

Hi All

My rig is on wheels (and has to stay on wheels) and I also need to be nice to my neighbors.

Rig is on a tiled concrete floor, though I can put an ikea rug down as an option over rubber matts?

Search - Our range

www.bunnings.com.au

STOENSE Rug, low pile, off-white, 133x195 cm - IKEA

STOENSE Rug, low pile, off-white, 133x195 cm. The thick, soft-spun pile is all about comfort, combined with gentle colours and a light sheen that bring harmony to the room. Large floor? Place several rugs together – the thick pile conceals the edges.

www.ikea.com

I have a buttkicker mini LFE on the pedal deck and one on the seat. (2 x mini LFE)

Behringer NX1000D Power Amplifier 1000W with DSP (overkill?)

Behringer NX1000D Power Amplifier 1000W with DSP

Behringer NX1000D power amplifier feature the latest Class D technology combine with leading DSP control to deliver the power your system needs while remaining lightweight. Perfect for DJs, venues, and bands.

djcity.com.au

NLR Next Level Racing GTtrack Simulator Racing Cockpit.

Next Level Racing GTtrack | Next Level Racing

Next Level Racing GTtrack | Advanced Simulation Products

nextlevelracing.com

I am thinking of using these to isolate the seat and pedals from the rig

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

to isolate the seat and the pedal deck from the frame and now considering the below to provide some immersion but also not annoy the neighbors.

Elite SRS ShakeCombo (includes SRS License for Bass Shaker) | simracingstudio

Save when you buy the SRS Elite ShakeCombo Kits include the following: 1x ShakeBox Elite 1x ShakeSeat 1x ShakePedal 1x ShakeBack Extra Layer of Padding (removable) on ShakeSeat SRS License for Shaking All cables Just plug-and-race Shakers tuning guide...

www.simracingstudio.com

Any feedback would be great, I went down the hole of more transducers then thought of my neighbors.

 

[SafetyThird]

https://simtag.shop/gb/accueil/482-racebass-isolators.html

Yes, I've seen and read about those but the one's Andrew is using are costing me £20 delivered so I'll try those first and see how I get on. At €160 plus shipping and VAT/duty, the RaceBass are a LOT more expensive. Something to keep in mind for down the road though.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Yes, I've seen and read about those but the one's Andrew is using are costing me £20 delivered so I'll try those first and see how I get on. At €160 plus shipping and VAT/duty, the RaceBass are a LOT more expensive. Something to keep in mind for down the road though.

You would also need €130 brackets to drop seat down as these isolators are quite tall.

https://simtag.shop/gb/accueil/484-racebass-bracket.html

 

[herve45]

or use this

https://www.amazon.com/Iverntech-Connector-Standard-Aluminum-Extrusion/dp/B08YJHQ86S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=PPRU1E7AEUS0&keywords=Iverntech+4Pcs+Black+T+Shape+Corner+Bracket+Connector+Outside+Joint+Board+Plate+with+20Pcs+M8+T-Nuts%2B20Pcs+M8+Screws+%2B1Pcs+Wrench+for+Standard+8mm+Slot+4040+Series+Aluminum+Extrusion+Profile&qid=1677260832&sprefix=iverntech+4pcs+black+t+shape+corner+bracket+connector+outside+joint+board+plate+with+20pcs+m8+t-nuts%2B20pcs+m8+screws+%2B1pcs+wrench+for+standard+8mm+slot+4040+series+aluminum+extrusion+profile%2Caps%2C347&sr=8-2

fixed under the profile 40x40

 

[SafetyThird]

suddenly starts adding up to more than my first tactile setup is going to cost. So far I'm at £45 for a 6 channel 100w/channel amp, £20 for the isolators, £34 for a 7.1 sound card and whatever I spend on the actual transducers. I have a box full of cable/connectors etc, a workshop full of tools and a 3D printer. I'm pretty sure I can put together something on a decent budget before spending the big bucks

 

[Deleted member 197115]

or use this

https://www.amazon.com/Iverntech-Connector-Standard-Aluminum-Extrusion/dp/B08YJHQ86S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=PPRU1E7AEUS0&keywords=Iverntech+4Pcs+Black+T+Shape+Corner+Bracket+Connector+Outside+Joint+Board+Plate+with+20Pcs+M8+T-Nuts%2B20Pcs+M8+Screws+%2B1Pcs+Wrench+for+Standard+8mm+Slot+4040+Series+Aluminum+Extrusion+Profile&qid=1677260832&sprefix=iverntech+4pcs+black+t+shape+corner+bracket+connector+outside+joint+board+plate+with+20pcs+m8+t-nuts%2B20pcs+m8+screws+%2B1pcs+wrench+for+standard+8mm+slot+4040+series+aluminum+extrusion+profile%2Caps%2C347&sr=8-2

fixed under the profile 40x40

These are different unless you can bend them into L shape.

 

[garaged66]

After riding on semi flexy rubber bobbins for a few months replaced them with much harder neoprene spacers that can also get pre-torqued to different stiffness level. Much better stability almost if not the same as bolted directly to the profile but isolate just as well as rubber bobbins.View attachment 516790

View attachment 516791

Parts to use:
Neoprene isolators

4-Pack - Premium Quality Multi-Purpose Rubber Spacer 1" OD x 3/8" ID x 1" Thick (AVS-X19-13): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4-Pack - Premium Quality Multi-Purpose Rubber Spacer 1" OD x 3/8" ID x 1" Thick (AVS-X19-13): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

M8 washers

Amazon.com

M8 Locking nuts, amazon ran out of stock on those.

Amazon.com

M8 bolts

Amazon.com

How have these worked out after all this while? Have you changed them out for springs... or are they still doing well?

Also, are the 45mm bolts sufficient if using standard sliders plus a seat bracket? Or should I be looking to get the 50mm M8s?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Still holding fine, can't complain. Springs could be more durable in a long term, I guess, but this is much more compact and budget friendly version, and if they ever degrade, replacement neoprene isolators are cheap.
Building DIY version of RaceBass spring isolators is not super expensive, but due to the size you need to figure out some brackets to drop seat lower inside rig frame, too much hassle or money if you buy ready to bolt solution from simtag.

 

[garaged66]

Still holding fine, can't complain. Springs could be more durable in a long term, I guess, but this is much more compact and budget friendly version, and if they ever degrade, replacement neoprene isolators are cheap.
Building DIY version of RaceBass spring isolators is not super expensive, but due to the size you need to figure out some brackets to drop seat lower inside rig frame, too much hassle or money if you buy ready to bolt solution from simtag.

Thanks, I guess I'll try these first instead of going the custom bracket / mount option with the springs (still slightly more expensive, even if I DIY the Racebass stuff), I'm just trying to decide if I need 45mm or 50mm M8 bolts.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Thanks, I guess I'll try these first instead of going the custom bracket / mount option with the springs (still slightly more expensive, even if I DIY the Racebass stuff), I'm just trying to decide if I need 45mm or 50mm M8 bolts.

I've used 45 mm, seems like the right size.

 

[Teslatic]

-

 

[Teslatic]

This looks like a really practical solution, but where are your transducers mounted? Directly to your seat?

After riding on semi flexy rubber bobbins for a few months replaced them with much harder neoprene spacers that can also get pre-torqued to different stiffness level. Much better stability almost if not the same as bolted directly to the profile but isolate just as well as rubber bobbins.View attachment 516790

View attachment 516791

Parts to use:
Neoprene isolators

4-Pack - Premium Quality Multi-Purpose Rubber Spacer 1" OD x 3/8" ID x 1" Thick (AVS-X19-13): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4-Pack - Premium Quality Multi-Purpose Rubber Spacer 1" OD x 3/8" ID x 1" Thick (AVS-X19-13): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

M8 washers

Amazon.com

M8 Locking nuts, amazon ran out of stock on those.

Amazon.com

M8 bolts

Amazon.com

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Corbeau FX1 is rather unique seat as it has mounting posts at the bottom where I bolted profile with transducers mounted, but you can either bolt them directly to the seat or sandwich some mounting plate between seat mounting brackets and isolators.

 

[samspotting]

@Andrew_WOT I just got the fx1 for my upcoming 8020 rig. I see you got the side mount. Is that needed? I read from the seat description that it mounts at the bottom to sliders

 

[Deleted member 197115]

@Andrew_WOT I just got the fx1 for my upcoming 8020 rig. I see you got the side mount. Is that needed? I read from the seat description that it mounts at the bottom to sliders

Never thought of that but it should work, of course you lose ability to use these mounts for transducers.
Also could be wrong but I suspect side mounts are adding extra stability.

 

[samspotting]

Never thought of that but it should work, of course you lose ability to use these mounts for transducers.
Also could be wrong but I suspect side mounts are adding extra stability.

Interesting

Can you post a picture of your side mount with transducers? Actually decided to pick up side mounts as well, saw one listing on ebay.

I was planning on getting a plate from trak racer to mount, would be interested to see how you made that work. I assume you drilled mounting holes?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

You are overthinking stuff.

Or just some mounting plate, go for MDF or thicker aluminum to avoid buzzing. I used somewhat thin one and had to lay some Dynamat on back side to kill harmonics.

 

[Micka35]

Hi all,

@Andrew_WOT
On my TR160 MK4 I need to fit 8 insulators (the buttkicker is fixed to the profile that holds the seat support, and this profile is fixed with a corner).
Do you think I should reduce the length, which is 1" on the model you're using, so as not to have too much flexibility?

Thanks in advance