How to upgrade from G920 - Recommendations?

Long-term goal
Ever since I met RasmusP, and he told me about his personal transformation after upgrading from a G920 to a ClubSport base and BMW GT2 wheel, it has been my dream to get a Clubsport setup. After researching all of their wheels, the Porsche 918 wheel seems perfect for me. I'm also really looking forward to having the authentic feel of a ClubSport H-shifter, the realistic feeling clutch and brake pedals on the Clubsport V3 pedals, and finally getting a handbrake. But all of this is going to be $1700+. Its going to take me at least 1 year to save up enough for this, so I need to make a short-term plan to get me by (my G920 is now nearly unusable).

Short-term planning
My wheel needs to be replaced first, and its all I can afford for now. My Logitech pedals and shifter are still doing great and I've learned how to position my keyboard by my shifter to use as a binary handbrake. So here's the question: do I get a CSL elite wheel system or a ClubSport system?

Argument for the CSL Elite wheel system:
There are no reasonably priced ClubSport wheels. All ClubSport wheels are almost the same price as the base itself. Purchasing a standard ClubSport Wheel to match your ClubSport bases costs $950 total. For $50 more, you can buy a top of the line Direct Drive base AND wheel with the AccuForce Pro V2. I simply do not see why it should cost $300-400 to stick a $130 rim on a base (An xbox controller is only $60, so the argument that "its also a controller" doesn't account for the extra $200). I don't even care if there are no buttons on the wheel. I just want a light (less than 2Kg) yet realistically large wheel (over 300mm) to stick on the base. I know I could use the CSL Elite wheel, but its so small that I can't justify putting it on such an expensive base.
I also understand that upgrading to either the CSL or the ClubSport is a HUGE jump up from a G920, so I feel like I might as well enjoy the CSL for now and sell it later after saving up more money for a better wheel system. I really don't want to use the small 300mm CSL wheel, but at least it's a little bigger than the G920.

Argument for the ClubSport wheel system:
Although I'm not convinced that the ClubSport is a better deal than the AccuForce Direct Drive, I do know that the rest of my racing setup will be Fanatec gear. Therefore, it will save me a lot of hassle just having all my equipment be Fanatec (my gaming rig is a laptop [I can't bring a gaming tower on my military deployments], so I'm limited on USBs [Yes I use USB hubs too]).
ClubSport wheels are the best, hands-down. They are also the only wheels that come in the size that I want (larger than 300mm).
Also, the only reason I will buy a CSL base and wheel are if I determine that the resale value will be high after 1 year of use, at least 60% of the original price. If Fanatec wheels lose value quickly, I'd be a fool to buy something I plan on selling later.
Again, the main thing holding me back here is the cost. There is no reasonably priced wheel for the ClubSport. If I buy a ClubSport base, I will have to buy a puny CSL wheel to go with it, and that will feel wrong. (I'm also not interested in the BMW wheel, its too heavy).

Unless I can find a nice, lightweight, realistic-sized wheel to put on a ClubSport base, I'm probably going to have to get the CSL and save up for a while before getting the ClubSport. Does anyone know of any older wheels for sale that will mate up, or how to use the ClubSport with an aftermarket alternative? Thanks!

Games I play, in order of playtime:
Dirt Rally 2.0
Assetto Corsa
Forza Motorsport 7
RBR
Sebastien Loeb Rally
WRC7

My current setup:
20200904_180630.jpg


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Background (you're welcome to skip)
For a year and a half I've been using a G920 wheel, pedals, and shifter. Considering I found the whole setup for $300, I think I got a great value. The pedals and shifter have performed well, my only criticisms are minor things of preference (I could do a separate review of the whole setup another time, considering that I have put in about 500-600 hours of time into this rig). The wheel however, well, I knew early on that I would need a replacement before long. Just looking at it, I knew it was more of a toy than a serious racing wheel. The main thing that always bothered me was the rim diameter. I now understand the reasoning and physics behind the design (smaller wheel = better FFB with cheaper price), but I've always felt like a child using it.
Now, I don't have a choice but to upgrade. After about 6 months with this wheel its gears stated slipping mid-race. At first it was rare, but now it happens 1-3 times per 10 minute race. I mostly play rally games, which is much harder on these wheels, but now it is even slipping when I get into tight corners in Assetto Corsa. No bueno. I'm now reading online that this is a very common complaint with these wheels, and Logitech doesn't give a flying *insert expletive here* to help or fix it.
 
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Ricmotech's is well regarded, but $130.
Several other load cell kits convert the brake to a separate USB device.
I suppose you have seen this thread.
Yes, I've seen Ricmotech's loadcell. Kinda spendy, but at least its minimal DIY. That brings me to my other question: Is it only important to have the loadcell on the brake pedal? I thought it was recommended to have loadcells on all pedals. If not, great, because there's no way I'm spending $400 to upgrade Logitech pedals :roflmao:

As for the link to the other post, that's a bit too involved for me at the moment, but I still appreciate the share.

These wheels forfeit paddle shifting along with the button box.
Eventually converting a Fanatec GT or formula car rim to USB or Bluetooth addresses that,
but I use a separate TH8A shifter.
Yeah, I realize that I'll be without a paddle shifter until I can afford the button box. I was thinking in the meantime I might buy another cheap Logitech shifter and convert it to a sequential. This way, by saving money on the wheel, and the pedals, I'll have the money for the button box much sooner.

Ah, I see you've recommended the Thrustmaster shifter? I always planned to get the Fanatec shifter, but now I'm noticing a lot of people choosing the Thrustmaster?

I have seen positive YouTube reviews for the TrueBrake; something that is available now
and is an actual load cell for about the same price: Sensor Solutions FC2231-0000-0100-L
This load cell mod was described here by jspicer.
Here is the datasheet
Sweet, I'm going to do some research on Truebrake now.


I agree, going with Logitech pedals wired into the AccuForce controller, which provides 5V,
linear sensitivity and integrating pedals with wheel, so fewer USB devices.

A trick to linearize load cell response with Logitech wheel base:
  • swap wiring between clutch and brake, making the clutch nonlinear, but who cares?
  • swap brake and clutch assignments back in games, which may not be possible in all.
What's the deal with 3.3v and 5v?

A trick to linearize load cell response with Logitech wheel base:
  • swap wiring between clutch and brake, making the clutch nonlinear, but who cares?
  • swap brake and clutch assignments back in games, which may not be possible in all.
Wait, I'm confused. If you swap the wiring, but then reassign the pedals back in game, aren't you just back to the same input before step 1?
 
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Logitech pedals with load cell for me was a significant improvement with my brake lines. I’ve recently upgraded to Heusinkveld Sprints and while they’re quite expensive, they’re an “end of the line upgrade”, meaning I won’t feel tempted for many years to upgrade them. Fanatec pedals aren’t in that same league so in my opinion, upgrading the G29 pedals and using them while saving to buy “endgame“ pedals is the more cost effective solution. That way you can buy the Accuforce sooner.
Yes, Sir, that's exactly my train of thought right now. Thanks for the input.


I agree; with tweaked brake and a digressive clutch hack, my feet don't mind G29 pedals.
Heusinkveld Sprints are aspirational, but would roughly double my sunk costs.
Are you saying its also possible to modify the Logitech clutch pedal to be digressive? That sounds awesome.
 
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Is it only important to have the loadcell on the brake pedal? I thought it was recommended to have loadcells on all pedals.
Personally, I'm happy to keep the accelerator and clutch as they are since in every car I have driven it's not the pressure I am applying to the pedal that determines how much gas or the biting point, but the actual position of it.

What's the deal with 3.3v and 5v?
The G920/G29 supply 3.3v to the pedals, so any load cell amplifier needs to work at 3.3v (most do).

Wait, I'm confused. If you swap the wiring, but then reassign the pedals back in game, aren't you just back to the same input before step 1?
Not quite. The G920/G29 wheel base takes into the account the little rubber block, so there is not a completely linear relationship between voltage and brake value. My buddy did a fairly detailed analysis using a DAC to plot it:
GraphReader-Linear%20Plot.JPG


The chart shows two things that cause some problems when you start messing around. First is the change in gradient around 1.7v/75%. It may not look like much but it's almost double the gradient prior to that, so in the region at which you try to threshold brake, suddenly the pedal becomes twice as sensitive. The second thing is the voltage range from max to min is only about 1.5v, which is less than half the reference voltage the ADC in the wheelbase is likely to be using, so you immediately lose half the precision
 
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Personally, I'm happy to keep the accelerator and clutch as they are since in every car I have driven it's not the pressure I am applying to the pedal that determines how much gas or the biting point, but the actual position of it.


The G920/G29 supply 3.3v to the pedals, so any load cell amplifier needs to work at 3.3v (most do).


Not quite. The G920/G29 wheel base takes into the account the little rubber block, so there is not a completely linear relationship between voltage and brake value. My buddy did a fairly detailed analysis using a DAC to plot it:
GraphReader-Linear%20Plot.JPG


The chart shows two things that cause some problems when you start messing around. First is the change in gradient around 1.7v/75%. It may not look like much but it's almost double the gradient prior to that, so in the region at which you try to threshold brake, suddenly the pedal becomes twice as sensitive. The second thing is the voltage range from max to min is only about 1.5v, which is less than half the reference voltage the ADC in the wheelbase is likely to be using, so you immediately lose half the precision

Cool, that actually makes perfect sense. So, Blekenbleu's solution corrects this issue?

Sure, several geometries.
Mine was inspired by this DIY G27 Clutch and Throttle MOD video.
Hmm, this is becoming another Logitech pedal thread..
Yeah, sorry about that. I really wish I could rename the subject of this thread "Upgrading from G920 - Recommendations?"

Once I get my Accuforce, I plan to make a new thread to teach other newbies what I learned through this process. Pay it forward.
 
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I made a DIY loadcell mod (https://github.com/GeekyDeaks/g29-load-cell), happy to help you replicate but you need a propensity for tinkering and access to a 3D printer. I would probably recommend the TrueBrake mod as an alternative (https://www.axc-sim.com/product/brake-pedal-mod-for-logitech-g29-g920-g27-g25-pedals/). It's technically not a loadcell, but the principle is the same (it measures spring rate compression, not angle). I'd also recommend bypassing the Wheel Base as I found that improved things no end for me with non-ABS cars
Oh yeah, finished my research on the TrueBrake upgrade. Yep! That's definitely what I'm doing. Not only is it cheaper, but its made to feel like a real care brake (which I care about as much as its precision).

You all are the best. I cannot thank you enough. I researched this stuff for hours on my own and got nowhere until you all came along.

:D:thumbsup:;):inlove:
 
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Ah, I see you've recommended the Thrustmaster shifter?
Not necessarily recommending; it's what I got instead of Logitech's
when I picked up my refurbished G29 years ago.
I always planned to get the Fanatec shifter, but now I'm noticing a lot of people choosing the Thrustmaster?
Fanatec's probably feels better. The TH8A is durable, but I missed too many shifts with it
until shortening its upper lever and swapping its cannon ball knob for cork.

I was reluctant to spend anything like Fanatec money when starting Assetto Corsa.
being unsure whether the lack of G forces in real track driving would be tolerable,
but SRS ShakeSeat's feedback somewhat compensates.
 
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So, Blekenbleu's solution corrects this issue?
Your deadband tweak may work nearly as well for stock brake pedals.
TrueBrake may be designed to expect Logitech's bent transfer function...
I researched this stuff for hours on my own and got nowhere until you all came along.
My Dad used to say: "We've been lost here before!"
 
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By the way, I found a very cool shifter alternative to the Thrustmaster and Fanatec shifters.

 
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Sim Racing Garage reviewed the SHH shifter.
According to Barry, it (like the TH8A) offers only low shift resistance.
Cool, I just finished that review. Man that guy can talk for a long time. I appreciate his thoroughness, but maybe he should release a "summary" version as well.

Because the TH8A takes so long to switch from H mode to sequential mode, I still think I'm going to have to give this SHH a try. It will be way too long before I can afford anything else that easily switches from sequential to H shifting.
 
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So if you disregard the chair, did you have much luck modifying your Logitech pedals? I'm still looking for a product to convert them to load cell.
has some photos on the later pages, its DIY all metal, with a loadcell from a Wii Fit board behind a very strong spring, so it's not totally solid like a Formula pedal. Heel&toeing works well, tho I've ofc trained on those pedals a lot before when they were still all poti based
 
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Because the TH8A takes so long to switch from H mode to sequential mode, I still think I'm going to have to give this SHH a try. It will be way too long before I can afford anything else that easily switches from sequential to H shifting.
I just stumbled across this seemingly credible shifter comparison video by R-VR Closet .
Take-aways:
  • SHH feel and mode swap are preferred over TH8A
  • Logitech shifter feel can be substantially improved at lower cost by 3DRap mods.
Barry also liked 3DRap G29 shifter mod improvements...
 
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I just stumbled across this seemingly credible shifter comparison video by R-VR Closet .
Take-aways:
  • SHH feel and mode swap are preferred over TH8A
  • Logitech shifter feel can be substantially improved at lower cost by 3DRap mods.
Barry also liked 3DRap G29 shifter mod improvements...
Another excellent find, my friend. That review just confirmed my confidence in the SHH.

The 3DRap mods for the Logitech shifter look excellent. However, the only thing I really need to upgrade my shifter for is the ability to quickly shift between H-shifting and sequential. I still can't believe Logitech downgraded the newer shifters by removing the sequential function!


. . . No obvious way to implement digressive clutch feel . . .

Is there an *easy* way to upgrade the Logitech clutch to be digressive? I saw your link to the DIY, but it looked very time intensive, and even if I had the time and tools, there were no instructions.
 
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Is there an *easy* way to upgrade the Logitech clutch to be digressive? I saw your link to the DIY, but it looked very time intensive, and even if I had the time and tools, there were no instructions.
If you have access to a 3D printer, there are some that may be easier:
I see 3DRap also has some very affordable upgrades for the Clutch and Throttle pedals. A Simple rubber piece that fits in the spring housing to harden the pedal presses.
One can carve plastic wine bottle "corks" to suit...
 
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