How to setup cars
- Thread starter Heath82
- Start date
Exactly. But it's 10° for Assetto Corsa and not 5° like for GTR2.
That depends on the experience you have. If you drive 500m and know by experience that everything needs to be changed, you do that. If you have no clue about the car, you do only one at a time.
The settings might influence each other too, like ride height, spring stiffness and camber for example.
The gearing won't influence the wings though, of course.
But yeah, for the beginning you follow the guide, change only one setting per lap and do another lap.
The settings might influence each other too, like ride height, spring stiffness and camber for example.
The gearing won't influence the wings though, of course.
But yeah, for the beginning you follow the guide, change only one setting per lap and do another lap.
Haha that's a very tricky question! You have to slice it into different situations:
1. While the ABS is active, all 4 wheels will be at their maximum braking. That's like a dynamically changing, front/rear/left/right brake bias. No, brake bias won't make ANY difference. It's overwritten by the ABS
2. While not braking hard enough for the ABS to kick in, the brake bias will make a difference! Like fast corners where you only touch the brakes slightly or while letting off the brake pedal when starting to turn in for a corner
How I do it: It's always good to know what the actual capabilities of the car are so I always do some laps without ABS and without TC, driving quite carefully, trying to get used to it. How to go off the brake pedal for a nice turn in, how far you actually can press the brake pedal before the tires will lock up. How brutally you can put your foot down on the throttle at corner exit etc.
After you're used to the car like that, and adjusted the brake bias, I put ABS and TC back on and of course you will be a lot faster most of the times! But your feet will still move "according to the car's capabilities".
An example: I often see people, when driving with ABS, mashing the brake pedal until they start to turn in and then just letting it go, resulting in an unstable car.
Now if you try to do the same without ABS the wheel would just lock and then snap back into grip.
However when you can drive the car without ABS and then put it back on, you'll be very smooth, and therefore quicker!
To answer the question about the brake bias: yes, set it. But set it while driving without ABS please
1. While the ABS is active, all 4 wheels will be at their maximum braking. That's like a dynamically changing, front/rear/left/right brake bias. No, brake bias won't make ANY difference. It's overwritten by the ABS
2. While not braking hard enough for the ABS to kick in, the brake bias will make a difference! Like fast corners where you only touch the brakes slightly or while letting off the brake pedal when starting to turn in for a corner
How I do it: It's always good to know what the actual capabilities of the car are so I always do some laps without ABS and without TC, driving quite carefully, trying to get used to it. How to go off the brake pedal for a nice turn in, how far you actually can press the brake pedal before the tires will lock up. How brutally you can put your foot down on the throttle at corner exit etc.
After you're used to the car like that, and adjusted the brake bias, I put ABS and TC back on and of course you will be a lot faster most of the times! But your feet will still move "according to the car's capabilities".
An example: I often see people, when driving with ABS, mashing the brake pedal until they start to turn in and then just letting it go, resulting in an unstable car.
Now if you try to do the same without ABS the wheel would just lock and then snap back into grip.
However when you can drive the car without ABS and then put it back on, you'll be very smooth, and therefore quicker!
To answer the question about the brake bias: yes, set it. But set it while driving without ABS please
Hey a little doubt came out.. when i set camber, even if i put the same values, I don’t have the same values in the real time changes. I mean i’m setting up the front camber, i put 1 at both front tyres, but on real time changes i have the left tyre at -0.39 and the right tyre at -0.49, to compare the real time values I should put 1 at the letf tyre and 1.1 at right tyre. Is this right? Or the values i put on gotta be the same even though they don’t match in the real time changes?
The setup sliders can be two things:
1. the value that would be if the car would stay perfectly even on the ground
2. just a "relative" value without any real value behind it. Like "2 clicks" and not "-1,345 degree".
To answer your question: it's normal! The pits aren't perfectly even so the values are different. However, the real time values are still "more real" than the values set with the sliders.
With 0.39 and 0.49 it's likely that the true value is 0.44 on both wheels. Always set up the car symmetrical! Just because the pits aren't even/flat it doesn't mean the whole track is like that.
So adjust the sliders symmetrical instead of the real time values!
Hey my friend i need you!! I’m dealing with a ktm xbow at imola. This car has jo traction and no abs and a lot of understeer!! After lots of laps I realized that the car especially understeers at mid corner so i increased negative camber front and decreased negative camber rear. Is it a good choice?
Yeah looks good. I have to say I hate that little beast though...
From a quick look I would suggest max negative on the front (-2.2) and -0.9 at the rear. Should slide around a little mid corner. Also less camber at the rear makes the car get more traction. Less cornering speed though!
You need to mix it nicely
These are difficult. At the PC you can see the damper ratio, meaning the dampers in relation to the springs.
They are very soft yet the x-bow feels kinda stiff. If you increase the dampers the car will wobble and bounce around less but become too stiff to drive well overall.
Maybe try softening the rear bump while increasing rebound to get the rear a bit lower while accelerating. Might induce understeer though.
Toe... I think it's quite good. If you lose the rear end or want it to come around more quickly increase or decrease the toe on the rear. The front however feels okay.
They are very soft yet the x-bow feels kinda stiff. If you increase the dampers the car will wobble and bounce around less but become too stiff to drive well overall.
Maybe try softening the rear bump while increasing rebound to get the rear a bit lower while accelerating. Might induce understeer though.
Toe... I think it's quite good. If you lose the rear end or want it to come around more quickly increase or decrease the toe on the rear. The front however feels okay.
