Guide for G27 (and other wheels) configuration

[RasmusP]

February 2024 Update:
Please don't read this thread. I know Google will show it, but it's old and filled with partly wrong information from me.
Just use my LUT package instead:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/



-------------- Don't read this! --------------

Older edit: After almost everyone prefers the LUT-Configuration, I created a Lut-only Thread with all my LUTs attached in a zip-file in the Download-Area here at Racedepartment.
Have a look:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

Original post:
Hello everyone,
I know there are a lot of settings and guides online for "the perfect settings" but after I spent about 30 hours searching and trying, I really found MY best settings.
They are a combination of different guides (but with the "GAMMA-option" in use) that I will name right now and first:

Really nice and complete Guide on Assetto Corsa Forum
Reddit Thread where my adventure began (and where I got the Link above)
FFB Deadzone Fix Logitech G27
Guide for LUT Generator (can't recommend it but helped me understanding)

EDIT: I thought the LUT was what gave me my perfect feeling BUT IT WAS THE TYPE=GAMMA, not a LUT so I rewrote that whole Guide:

EDIT2: I found out how to write a LUT yourself so I did it and the result is something similar to the gamma-setting BUT less compressed, smoother middle-transition and therefore BETTER! Here is the link to the post if you don't want to scroll down: LINK

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and Profiler

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter%

5. HAVE FUN

6. additional:
- Logitech Profiler:
- overall: 100
- spring: 0
- damper: 0
- untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"

- AC InGame:
- Gain: 50% [depends on your wheel but for my G27 it is 50%. 75-125% InCAR]
- Filter: 0
- Min Force: 4%
- kerb, road, slip: 0
- understeer: untick
- Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!

For those who want a detailed guide:

After I read very very much about all seen and all hidden settings in Assetto Corsa, I tried everything out, but one of these things was always bothering me:

1. you have a huge dead zone
2. your wheel oszillates
3. deadzone ok but no smooth transition at center
4. just too much force

The solution for me was the GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini!
Combined with the dampening-setting, the Gyro-setting, the min_force and the Center_Boost!
Short version of what this settings do:
To get rid of the Deadzone you need to combine the very little center-boost with the min-force. But then you will have a little bump in the middle because they have a "hard cut" at zero-force.
If you enable the GAMMA-setting this hard-cut will be transformed into a curve, just like the FFB-Output from Assetto Corsa will get compressed to a curve where little forces are boosted and the high forces are lowered.
Here are a few pictures of that:

1. Wheelcheck Result:
2. How the AC-FFB has to be alternated:

3. All these settings combined:

So you get rid of the deadzone but don't get an oscillating wheel! [Plus you feel more details.]

The Settings in detail:
1. controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"

- Filter=0: This should eliminate FFB-spikes but for me it seems like it just kills little details but does not really smoothes out! So let it on 0!

- MIN_FF=0: That means, that the "zero force" is still zero force, theoretically it's THE setting to get rid of the deadzone BUT I experienced, that you need to get up to 17% for the G27 and then don't have a deadzone anymore but case 2.: your wheel oscillates.
If you go down to about 12% you have case 3.: the deadzone is still there, but little. Problem: it doesn't feel nice... 0 Force in the Deadzone and then BAM, FORCE.
My thought about that:
The "MIN FORCE" doesn't have a "Curve" for the lowest force. It just does a hard cut which ends up in my experienced results. (See Picture above: 3. combined)

- CENTER_BOOST_GAIN: In the Guide "FFB Deadzone Fix for Logitech G27 1.2" this setting is used.
Explanation: If you imagine the Wheel, the FFB begins at a little bit right and left from the center-> "deadzone". That is because the force that IS THERE, IN THE CENTER, is too low for your wheel.
This setting BOOSTS the FFB in the RANGE of "CENTER_BOOST_RANGE"

- CENTER_BOOST_RANGE: as mentioned, this is the range of the boost that applies on the FFB FROM THE CENTER. Theoretically you just need to "Boost the deadzone away". But this does not work, I tried EVERYTHING!! (combined with GAMMA this transforms to a "curve"!)

I combined this 3 settings in every possibility but you have always ONE problem: the "center transition" as in "you steer from left to right" gets a BUMP in the middle, because of the boost.
I tried to lower the boost, widen the range, give a little more MIN_FORCE. But nope, you always gets this unrealistic "center-bump". (so you need the GAMMA!)

I have to give the author much credit, it is a really nice setting but it's just not enough for me.

2. assetto_corsa.ini
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"

- FF_SKIP_STEPS=0: If set to 1, you get half of the FFB-Refresh-Rate. So if you have a decent hardware, go with 0! Some people get an error on servers because their CPU is too weak. Then go with 1. It doesn't make a HUGE difference, but the more FF-Inputs, the better, right?

- ENABLE_GYRO=1: Honestly, I don't understand this settings but it smoothens the wheel without taking away important informations!
If you read about that setting: It is for Direct Drive Wheels as the Logitech G27 (not belt drive like Thrustmaster for example) and interprets "the wheel as a Gyro on certain speeds".
If your wheel is a little bit "shaky" overall or oscillates: go with 1!

- DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0: This means, that the InGame dampening (a few versions ago there was a slider?!) is OFF, when the Engine says the damper to be zero. If you increase this settings, your dampening will ALWAYS BE ON, even if the engine does NOT give the input for it.

- DAMPER_GAIN=1.0: That is simple. If the engine gives the input to dampen the FFB-Signal, it is indeed dampened. For my G27 I like it on 0.7 but if your wheel feels a little "numb" you can lower or even deactivate it. I find my wheel too shaky when on 0.0!
Sidenote: ALWAYS USE THIS SETTINGS FOR DAMPENING, NOT THE LOGITECH PROFILER DAMPENING!!!


3. ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"

- Version=1: No idea, just leave it!

- TYPE=GAMMA: I don't know how it works exactly but it is THE setting that got me stunning! I drawed a Curve about how it feels for me and it makes sense but honestly: no idea...
Here is the picture:

- VALUE=0.5: Well in one guide the author tells you "it is on 1 at mine, no idea, just leave it" BUT IT IS IMPORTANT!
It determines how strong the FFB gets "compressed". So on 1.0 it does NOTHING, on 0.1 you feel absolutely no details, it's like ultra-power-steering.
For me about 0.5 is the optimum for having details but no deadzone.
THIS IS THE SETTING THAT ELIMINATES MY DEADZONE AND LET IT FEEL REAL!
What is important here: you have to lower the global FFB in order to have "normal forces". The lower the value, the lower your global FFB! If you put VALUE=0.1 and global FFB on 100% you get broken arms for sure...

- CURVE=%doesn't matter, not active%": Well this is just the settings to take the correct LUT. BUT: I don't use a LUT and I can't recommend it with the G27. Tried it and it was just awful!
IF you want to activate a LUT you have to change TYPE=LUT (thanks to Ross Garland for giving me that info!)


Conclusion:
I know that was a lot and I know it's not perfect but maybe it will help you with your settings and increase the fun you have with Assetto Corsa.
I switched over from Project Cars but was so mad with my wheel that I thought about buying another one. The Deadzone was so annoying but the graphics, sound and gameplay were better and I really wanted that game to get working!

This is just a wrap up from other people's posts and guides but I didn't find a guide here, where you don't need to login to the Assetto Corsa Forum or even there, where all these settings are packed up so you can just read it down and get your settings.
And most importantly: I nowhere found any mention of this GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini so alone for that setting I wrote that all down.

I made this post to give all searching souls another thing to try and hope this makes even a few people happy

Let me know if it helped you!

Kind Regards,
Rasmus

 

[RasmusP]

currently doesnt feel great, sorry about the widescreen i use an ultrawide on pc but race in vr lol

edit added true drive settingsa

sc2 sport, 350mm wheel

The ultrawide isn't the issue but the texts are completely washed out haha. Luckily I know what they are and the values are more or less readable.

So:
- Minimum force should be 0%!!!!! Very important, it just gives a bad notch at the center, killing all smoothness in the middle. 0.5% are the maximum you should use.

- Putting Road and Kerb to 0% makes the ffb a bit "dead". Especially Road, since you won't get different vibrations fore different surface types.

- Hardware Lock can be tricky. It seems to work with simcube but the issue is that when you reduce the max degrees from 900 to 450, your ffb will become a LOT stronger. I don't really know why, but it's definitely true. So you might get very different "gain to force output" settings between cars. Maybe disable that setting for now and sacrifice the nice lock feeling. To be honest you should never hit the steering lock while driving anyway

Simucube settings:
- 74% of the max 17 Nm = 12.6 Nm, which is quite a lot! But manageable I guess. Might becomes very strong and violent if a car has only 400° and hardware lock enabled...
My settings would equal to 9.4 Nm with a 350mm wheel. Compared to my 300mm wheel.

- Rest looks ok but since I don't have access to any SC2, I can't really help. I would suggest to put the Direct Input damping and friction to 0%. The SC2 damping/friction/inertia look ok though!


My recommendation:
- Try my AC settings (0% min force!)
- Disable hardware lock
- Reduce SC2 "Overall Strength" to 55-60%

- Slip to 0% for drifting! I like the feedback about locking up or getting wheelspin when racing though

- ABS to your liking. Only active if the car has ABS ofc.

Here are my AC settings:

 

[Rebel_488]

The ultrawide isn't the issue but the texts are completely washed out haha. Luckily I know what they are and the values are more or less readable.

So:
- Minimum force should be 0%!!!!! Very important, it just gives a bad notch at the center, killing all smoothness in the middle. 0.5% are the maximum you should use.

- Putting Road and Kerb to 0% makes the ffb a bit "dead". Especially Road, since you won't get different vibrations fore different surface types.

- Hardware Lock can be tricky. It seems to work with simcube but the issue is that when you reduce the max degrees from 900 to 450, your ffb will become a LOT stronger. I don't really know why, but it's definitely true. So you might get very different "gain to force output" settings between cars. Maybe disable that setting for now and sacrifice the nice lock feeling. To be honest you should never hit the steering lock while driving anyway

Simucube settings:
- 74% of the max 17 Nm = 12.6 Nm, which is quite a lot! But manageable I guess. Might becomes very strong and violent if a car has only 400° and hardware lock enabled...
My settings would equal to 9.4 Nm with a 350mm wheel. Compared to my 300mm wheel.

- Rest looks ok but since I don't have access to any SC2, I can't really help. I would suggest to put the Direct Input damping and friction to 0%. The SC2 damping/friction/inertia look ok though!


My recommendation:
- Try my AC settings (0% min force!)
- Disable hardware lock
- Reduce SC2 "Overall Strength" to 55-60%

- Slip to 0% for drifting! I like the feedback about locking up or getting wheelspin when racing though

- ABS to your liking. Only active if the car has ABS ofc.

Here are my AC settings:
View attachment 580863

View attachment 580864

perfect man, thanks again for your input, it currently feels way off so i will try all u said, many thanks

60 gain in game for me also?

 

[RasmusP]

perfect man, thanks again for your input, it currently feels way off so i will try all u said, many thanks

60 gain in game for me also?

Yep!

 

[Rebel_488]

Feeling nice tho the wheels not quite rotating back quickly any ideas what to tweak? Just got traffic mod working for SRP also, testing that out at same time. Ac coming back to life again for me

 

[RasmusP]

Feeling nice tho the wheels not quite rotating back quickly any ideas what to tweak? Just got traffic mod working for SRP also, testing that out at same time. Ac coming back to life again for me

That's probably due to your damping, friction, intertia settings.
I would first try to reduce friction. Thats really the "slow down setting". It works like a constant resistance.

Inertia will make the car feel like it weights more by giving inly initial resistance but not slow down the wheel when it starts rotating.

Damping is a bit like friction, but smoother.

I sadly can't give you "good settings", but my csw 2.5 is returning super quick.
I only have a damping setting though.
(But I tested a csl dd for a week and I liked friction to 0, damping until I got some low resistance and then inertia 2x as high as damping.)

So I would suggest to put friction to 0%.

Inertia to 5%.

Damping to 5% too and start driving.
The wheel might start to shake on the straights or feel too wobbly, like no weight.

Put the damping to 20% and see if you like the effect.
Then damping back to 5% and inertia to 20%.

That will show you the difference between these 2 settings.

Now inertia back to 5%.

If you now set friction to 20%, you will probably feel why I would set it to 0%.

Looking at your current settings, I would guess to feel nice:
Damping 8%
Inertia 15%
Friction 0%

Maybe friction to 2% if the wheel is "too smooth".

I can tell you that my AC settings feel good on any wheel though.
Maybe not the best for every wheel, but it will feel "nice".
I asked a few friends to quickly try them. Csl dd, csl elite, csw 2.0, t300, t500, ts-pc, osw small mige, sc2 sport.

I'm also waiting for screenshots of the sc2 guy's profile.

 

[Rebel_488]

That's probably due to your damping, friction, intertia settings.
I would first try to reduce friction. Thats really the "slow down setting". It works like a constant resistance.

Inertia will make the car feel like it weights more by giving inly initial resistance but not slow down the wheel when it starts rotating.

Damping is a bit like friction, but smoother.

I sadly can't give you "good settings", but my csw 2.5 is returning super quick.
I only have a damping setting though.
(But I tested a csl dd for a week and I liked friction to 0, damping until I got some low resistance and then inertia 2x as high as damping.)

So I would suggest to put friction to 0%.

Inertia to 5%.

Damping to 5% too and start driving.
The wheel might start to shake on the straights or feel too wobbly, like no weight.

Put the damping to 20% and see if you like the effect.
Then damping back to 5% and inertia to 20%.

That will show you the difference between these 2 settings.

Now inertia back to 5%.

If you now set friction to 20%, you will probably feel why I would set it to 0%.

Looking at your current settings, I would guess to feel nice:
Damping 8%
Inertia 15%
Friction 0%

Maybe friction to 2% if the wheel is "too smooth".

I can tell you that my AC settings feel good on any wheel though.
Maybe not the best for every wheel, but it will feel "nice".
I asked a few friends to quickly try them. Csl dd, csl elite, csw 2.0, t300, t500, ts-pc, osw small mige, sc2 sport.

I'm also waiting for screenshots of the sc2 guy's profile.

Yes I mean with the your advised changes already made in both ac and true drive for the sc2. I will look further into with the further points u made just now. I see some posts where people say to use a wheel rotation of 1180 in ac/true drive for the simucube. I think Andrew wot was very in favour of this on the granite device forums but he isn’t a drifter to my knowledge

Edit to say your settings do feel much better than I had, td is where I shall adjust how u said thanks

 

[RasmusP]

I see some posts where people say to use a wheel rotation of 1180 in ac/true drive for the simucube. I think Andrew wot was very in favour of this on the granite device forums but he isn’t a drifter to my knowledge

For ac there are 2 things:
1. You set the same rotation in ac and in the wheel driver, theb AC automatically syncs the wheel to the sim car, as long as the simulated car has less degrees than the wheel.
Otherwise the simulated car will be "compressed" into what the wheel can do.
So to have real rotation lock for all cars, set both ac and wheel to the maximum.

2. The issue is: when you set ac to more degrees, the ffb will feel less strong. Not a real issue but with 1080 degrees, you'll need to raise the overall strength a little bit.
When you set ac and wheel to only 450 degrees, you'll have to lower the overall strength.

Apart from that, it doesn't matter what you set ac and the wheel to.

 

[leonardovit]

Hi. I want to tweak my G27 to feels better in game.. the #1 post in this thread is updated? Should I follow those info?

 

[RasmusP]

Hi. I want to tweak my G27 to feels better in game.. the #1 post in this thread is updated? Should I follow those info?

Hi,
Yes, please click on the link to the download site for the LUT pack.

If you're using content manager, just unzip the lut pack and load the lut via content manager.
Here's a post with all settings:

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/rasmusps-luts-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/page-31#post-3558850

I thought about getting this thread archived, but too many people find it during their search, like you, and I don't want to hide it from them.

 

[Rebel_488]

Looking at your current settings, I would guess to feel nice:
Damping 8%
Inertia 15%
Friction 0%

Looking at your current settings, I would guess to feel nice:
Damping 8%
Inertia 14%
Friction 0%

i have settled here for now, many thanks for your time and effort, wheel now returns much better, just need to get good now lol

 

[leonardovit]

Hi,
Yes, please click on the link to the download site for the LUT pack.

If you're using content manager, just unzip the lut pack and load the lut via content manager.
Here's a post with all settings:

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/rasmusps-luts-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/page-31#post-3558850

I thought about getting this thread archived, but too many people find it during their search, like you, and I don't want to hide it from them.

Hi,

The feeling is much better after this LUT.

Thank you very much!

 

[RasmusP]

Hi,

The feeling is much better after this LUT.

Thank you very much!

Nice to hear! Thanks for the feedback

 

[AhmoZaZe]

a

- first of all, I'm appriciated for your reply. let me explain everything;
- I was running AC on Win10 with Logitech G29 for 2 years with zero problem. I was using "Logitech Gaming Software". My Rpm Led was working fine, no dead center zone, ı could feel road bumps, vibration on kerbs, understeer effects was fine. ı used content manager and some mods but ı don't know anyting about force feedback mods because I only ran setup wizard, made the brake ballast to 1,00 and everything was fine and perfect to go. Then, after two years ı had to reinstall Win10 for some reasons and when I reinstalled and did all the same process on AC, ffb was way too absurd. her's my symptoms:
- rpm led not working / Huge dead center zone (zero ffb) / no vibration on kerbs / no road bump effect / no understeer or oversteer efect / no feedback when I hit the wall
- there is ffb though. wheel only wants to center itself with same tourqe regardless any over/understeer situations. and I noticed that on the pedal app, ffb (the white column on the most right) osciliates on the kerbs or road bumps etc. So I think the problem is either wheel lost its fine torque adjustment or there is a software deffect on the transfer of in-game ffb to the wheel. it's undrivable right now. so I started to find solution:
- I tried to tweak in-game FFB settings and nothing is changed literally. only gamma and minimum force working. If I raise kerb effect to %100, ffb turns red on kerbs but ı feel no ffb like before. If I make it %0, I see no ffb change. around middle (where it's not turning red or zero ffb) I see osciliations but again, no ffb ı feel. my search continues:
- I came up with your answer and tried so. wheelcheck wasn't working on my pc so I used your Lut. It made more drivable. No center dead zone, acceptable general ffb. but again, even though there's correct ffb osciliations in pedal app there is no effects at all. After 3 days of searching, I gave up until I saw your reply. I reformatted my Win10 again and installed AC now and it's still the same. Wheelcheck is not working again.
- Again, thank you for your attention. I hope I can find a way to solve this.

I HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION!

After my last post which I'm replying right now, I tried some more things. I was convinced that data from my g29 reaches to the Pc (basic steering and pedal positions) but data from Pc (such as road surfaces, understeer, oversteer, rpm) don't reach to my wheel. I tried with different games Project Cars 2 and Forza Horizon 5. Same problem. I tried different Pc with G29 and AC. Same problem.
After some research I've found out that the source of the problem was corrupted Logitech GHUB which automaticly updates itself!
I've installed old version of the GHUB and suddenly everything started working fine. wheel turns by itself on oversteer, all road bumps and curb effect and rpm lights were there. If you have ONLY CENTERING TORQUE AND NO RPM LIGHT problem, you can give it a try. I'm leaving a link for instruction below. Hope this post helps somebody

[mod edit: please don't link to external downloads]

 

[kolekoki126]

I have a Driving Force Gt wheel what settings would you recommend whould i use LUT or not?

 

[RasmusP]

I have a Driving Force Gt wheel what settings would you recommend whould i use LUT or not?

Go to my download for the LUT pack,
Set everything according to the Screenshots etc and then use the dfgt lut

RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Hi! After my G27 Guide seems to help a LOT of drivers to finally get satisfied with their Logitech wheel in Assetto Corsa but most of them preferring my LUT-Configuration, I decided to create a little Guide only with the LUT-Configuration. Easy...

www.racedepartment.com

 

[andreshch2001]

Thanks for the lut and all your active support with all the questiones, apreciate it.
I wanted to know in case i changed the g27 original wheel for a 350mm one would I need to change any settings to adjust it? as far as I know, a larger and heavier wheel would need more strength made by the base. Thank you

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks for the lut and all your active support with all the questiones, apreciate it.
I wanted to know in case i changed the g27 original wheel for a 350mm one would I need to change any settings to adjust it? as far as I know, a larger and heavier wheel would need more strength made by the base. Thank you

Hi,
in theory, yes!
Sadly not with the G27 since my LUTs are already designed to use the maximum power of the base.
You could however increase the "average power" to have more immersion while driving.
You would however lose the linearity of the ffb and therefore feel the grip a bit less detailed.
For example (fantasy numbers for demonstration):
With linear ffb:
100 km/h:
straight line = 10% ffb
turn in = 40% ffb
apex = 70% ffb
exit = 30% ffb

200 km/h:
straight line = 15% ffb
turn in = 60% ffb
apex = 90% ffb
exit = 50% ffb

With higher average ffb without clipping (using CSP's ffb tweaks: "Compression set to 200%):
100 km/h:
straight line = 25% ffb
turn in = 70% ffb
apex = 95% ffb
exit = 50% ffb

200 km/h:
straight line = 40% ffb
turn in = 80% ffb
apex = 99% ffb
exit = 70% ffb


You would still have enough ffb difference to get immersed at higher speeds, turn in and exit.
But at the apex you wouldn't really feel any difference anymore.
Also the ffb strength difference between turn in and the apex would be less. So you wouldnt have the same "ramp of force" to feel the grip limit.
If you hands expect the same "ramp of force", you would think the grip limit would be at 130% ffb. But it gets compressed to be 100% max. So the grip limit is closer to the turn in and exit ffb strength.

It's not too bad though, since if you start to lose grip, the ffb will change into the opposite direction or become very light right before that point.

Overall though, you'd simply need a stronger wheelbase where you could turn up the power.

The compression range assist from CSP is the way to go for your scenario! Try 200-300%. It simulates power steering.

 

[andreshch2001]

Hi,
in theory, yes!
Sadly not with the G27 since my LUTs are already designed to use the maximum power of the base.
You could however increase the "average power" to have more immersion while driving.
You would however lose the linearity of the ffb and therefore feel the grip a bit less detailed.
For example (fantasy numbers for demonstration):
With linear ffb:
100 km/h:
straight line = 10% ffb
turn in = 40% ffb
apex = 70% ffb
exit = 30% ffb

200 km/h:
straight line = 15% ffb
turn in = 60% ffb
apex = 90% ffb
exit = 50% ffb

With higher average ffb without clipping (using CSP's ffb tweaks: "Compression set to 200%):
100 km/h:
straight line = 25% ffb
turn in = 70% ffb
apex = 95% ffb
exit = 50% ffb

200 km/h:
straight line = 40% ffb
turn in = 80% ffb
apex = 99% ffb
exit = 70% ffb


You would still have enough ffb difference to get immersed at higher speeds, turn in and exit.
But at the apex you wouldn't really feel any difference anymore.
Also the ffb strength difference between turn in and the apex would be less. So you wouldnt have the same "ramp of force" to feel the grip limit.
If you hands expect the same "ramp of force", you would think the grip limit would be at 130% ffb. But it gets compressed to be 100% max. So the grip limit is closer to the turn in and exit ffb strength.

It's not too bad though, since if you start to lose grip, the ffb will change into the opposite direction or become very light right before that point.

Overall though, you'd simply need a stronger wheelbase where you could turn up the power.

The compression range assist from CSP is the way to go for your scenario! Try 200-300%. It simulates power steering.

I will try as soon as I can, would you recommend the same settings for drifting? Thanks

 

[RasmusP]

I will try as soon as I can, would you recommend the same settings for drifting? Thanks

Yes, I always use the same settings for drifting and racing!
Only difference is that I put the slip effect to 0%. It's a fake vibration when you're sliding or getting wheelspin and drifting has both so...

If your G27 is too slow when drifting, raise the range compression even further! Feeling the grip isn't as important as having a swiftly rotating wheel.

 

[deadllyKitten]

4. what the lut-generator does and why YOU don't need it: The little programm called "Wheelcheck" tests your wheel motor and creates a file where you get the "response curve" for your wheel. So you will see: 10% ffb output from the game/wheelcheck results in xx% ffb output from the wheel to you. Little bit complicated when seen first but you can see how the wheel motor reacts to ffb input. The problem here is that everyone seems to think "ok, so you need to create a lut that "corrects" the not perfect looking response curve. THAT IS FALSE! Because (in hard words) the Logitech G27 motor is pure ****! If you correct the response curve it just feels AWFUL!
So my lut does NOT correct this curve but alter it to what YOU GET FROM THE WHEEL feels good.
back to topic: wheelcheck creates a file of the wheel response curve.
The lut generator takes that file and creates a lut file. But a "corrected" lut file, which feels awful...

So don't use the generator, just create a .txt, fill in the numbers, rename it to "my_custom_lut1.lut" and you have the same as wheelcheck+lut generator, just suited for you

Hello! Do you still think so?
I noticed that the generated loot helps me and many others to feel the weight of the car and the road surface in more detail.