Guide for G27 (and other wheels) configuration

[RasmusP]

February 2024 Update:
Please don't read this thread. I know Google will show it, but it's old and filled with partly wrong information from me.
Just use my LUT package instead:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/



-------------- Don't read this! --------------

Older edit: After almost everyone prefers the LUT-Configuration, I created a Lut-only Thread with all my LUTs attached in a zip-file in the Download-Area here at Racedepartment.
Have a look:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

Original post:
Hello everyone,
I know there are a lot of settings and guides online for "the perfect settings" but after I spent about 30 hours searching and trying, I really found MY best settings.
They are a combination of different guides (but with the "GAMMA-option" in use) that I will name right now and first:

Really nice and complete Guide on Assetto Corsa Forum
Reddit Thread where my adventure began (and where I got the Link above)
FFB Deadzone Fix Logitech G27
Guide for LUT Generator (can't recommend it but helped me understanding)

EDIT: I thought the LUT was what gave me my perfect feeling BUT IT WAS THE TYPE=GAMMA, not a LUT so I rewrote that whole Guide:

EDIT2: I found out how to write a LUT yourself so I did it and the result is something similar to the gamma-setting BUT less compressed, smoother middle-transition and therefore BETTER! Here is the link to the post if you don't want to scroll down: LINK

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and Profiler

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter%

5. HAVE FUN

6. additional:
- Logitech Profiler:
- overall: 100
- spring: 0
- damper: 0
- untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"

- AC InGame:
- Gain: 50% [depends on your wheel but for my G27 it is 50%. 75-125% InCAR]
- Filter: 0
- Min Force: 4%
- kerb, road, slip: 0
- understeer: untick
- Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!

For those who want a detailed guide:

After I read very very much about all seen and all hidden settings in Assetto Corsa, I tried everything out, but one of these things was always bothering me:

1. you have a huge dead zone
2. your wheel oszillates
3. deadzone ok but no smooth transition at center
4. just too much force

The solution for me was the GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini!
Combined with the dampening-setting, the Gyro-setting, the min_force and the Center_Boost!
Short version of what this settings do:
To get rid of the Deadzone you need to combine the very little center-boost with the min-force. But then you will have a little bump in the middle because they have a "hard cut" at zero-force.
If you enable the GAMMA-setting this hard-cut will be transformed into a curve, just like the FFB-Output from Assetto Corsa will get compressed to a curve where little forces are boosted and the high forces are lowered.
Here are a few pictures of that:

1. Wheelcheck Result:
2. How the AC-FFB has to be alternated:

3. All these settings combined:

So you get rid of the deadzone but don't get an oscillating wheel! [Plus you feel more details.]

The Settings in detail:
1. controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"

- Filter=0: This should eliminate FFB-spikes but for me it seems like it just kills little details but does not really smoothes out! So let it on 0!

- MIN_FF=0: That means, that the "zero force" is still zero force, theoretically it's THE setting to get rid of the deadzone BUT I experienced, that you need to get up to 17% for the G27 and then don't have a deadzone anymore but case 2.: your wheel oscillates.
If you go down to about 12% you have case 3.: the deadzone is still there, but little. Problem: it doesn't feel nice... 0 Force in the Deadzone and then BAM, FORCE.
My thought about that:
The "MIN FORCE" doesn't have a "Curve" for the lowest force. It just does a hard cut which ends up in my experienced results. (See Picture above: 3. combined)

- CENTER_BOOST_GAIN: In the Guide "FFB Deadzone Fix for Logitech G27 1.2" this setting is used.
Explanation: If you imagine the Wheel, the FFB begins at a little bit right and left from the center-> "deadzone". That is because the force that IS THERE, IN THE CENTER, is too low for your wheel.
This setting BOOSTS the FFB in the RANGE of "CENTER_BOOST_RANGE"

- CENTER_BOOST_RANGE: as mentioned, this is the range of the boost that applies on the FFB FROM THE CENTER. Theoretically you just need to "Boost the deadzone away". But this does not work, I tried EVERYTHING!! (combined with GAMMA this transforms to a "curve"!)

I combined this 3 settings in every possibility but you have always ONE problem: the "center transition" as in "you steer from left to right" gets a BUMP in the middle, because of the boost.
I tried to lower the boost, widen the range, give a little more MIN_FORCE. But nope, you always gets this unrealistic "center-bump". (so you need the GAMMA!)

I have to give the author much credit, it is a really nice setting but it's just not enough for me.

2. assetto_corsa.ini
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"

- FF_SKIP_STEPS=0: If set to 1, you get half of the FFB-Refresh-Rate. So if you have a decent hardware, go with 0! Some people get an error on servers because their CPU is too weak. Then go with 1. It doesn't make a HUGE difference, but the more FF-Inputs, the better, right?

- ENABLE_GYRO=1: Honestly, I don't understand this settings but it smoothens the wheel without taking away important informations!
If you read about that setting: It is for Direct Drive Wheels as the Logitech G27 (not belt drive like Thrustmaster for example) and interprets "the wheel as a Gyro on certain speeds".
If your wheel is a little bit "shaky" overall or oscillates: go with 1!

- DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0: This means, that the InGame dampening (a few versions ago there was a slider?!) is OFF, when the Engine says the damper to be zero. If you increase this settings, your dampening will ALWAYS BE ON, even if the engine does NOT give the input for it.

- DAMPER_GAIN=1.0: That is simple. If the engine gives the input to dampen the FFB-Signal, it is indeed dampened. For my G27 I like it on 0.7 but if your wheel feels a little "numb" you can lower or even deactivate it. I find my wheel too shaky when on 0.0!
Sidenote: ALWAYS USE THIS SETTINGS FOR DAMPENING, NOT THE LOGITECH PROFILER DAMPENING!!!


3. ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"

- Version=1: No idea, just leave it!

- TYPE=GAMMA: I don't know how it works exactly but it is THE setting that got me stunning! I drawed a Curve about how it feels for me and it makes sense but honestly: no idea...
Here is the picture:

- VALUE=0.5: Well in one guide the author tells you "it is on 1 at mine, no idea, just leave it" BUT IT IS IMPORTANT!
It determines how strong the FFB gets "compressed". So on 1.0 it does NOTHING, on 0.1 you feel absolutely no details, it's like ultra-power-steering.
For me about 0.5 is the optimum for having details but no deadzone.
THIS IS THE SETTING THAT ELIMINATES MY DEADZONE AND LET IT FEEL REAL!
What is important here: you have to lower the global FFB in order to have "normal forces". The lower the value, the lower your global FFB! If you put VALUE=0.1 and global FFB on 100% you get broken arms for sure...

- CURVE=%doesn't matter, not active%": Well this is just the settings to take the correct LUT. BUT: I don't use a LUT and I can't recommend it with the G27. Tried it and it was just awful!
IF you want to activate a LUT you have to change TYPE=LUT (thanks to Ross Garland for giving me that info!)


Conclusion:
I know that was a lot and I know it's not perfect but maybe it will help you with your settings and increase the fun you have with Assetto Corsa.
I switched over from Project Cars but was so mad with my wheel that I thought about buying another one. The Deadzone was so annoying but the graphics, sound and gameplay were better and I really wanted that game to get working!

This is just a wrap up from other people's posts and guides but I didn't find a guide here, where you don't need to login to the Assetto Corsa Forum or even there, where all these settings are packed up so you can just read it down and get your settings.
And most importantly: I nowhere found any mention of this GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini so alone for that setting I wrote that all down.

I made this post to give all searching souls another thing to try and hope this makes even a few people happy

Let me know if it helped you!

Kind Regards,
Rasmus

 

[colombian_sergio]

Hi,
I would suggest to try the "gamma like LUT" from my download thread:

RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Hi! After my G27 Guide seems to help a LOT of drivers to finally get satisfied with their Logitech wheel in Assetto Corsa but most of them preferring my LUT-Configuration, I decided to create a little Guide only with the LUT-Configuration. Easy...

www.racedepartment.com

It's as strong as it can get without losing too much detail and should also be smoother at the center than using the normal gamma setting

About the gamma setting: Gamma doesn't change the maximum torque. It just raises lower ffb levels to more torque. So low ffb level feels stronger but there's less dynamic at higher ffb levels. It's a compromise/trade-off. Details vs feeling.
So using 100% gain will always give you the full torque possible. Using more than 100% in the game will give too much clipping.

Hope that helps!

Bro, you are so kind!

Thank you so much!

 

[AhmoZaZe]

I have a problem. Even though I see ffb osciliations in the pedal app, there isn't any effects such as road, kerb, slip, understeer. I raised all of this effects in the settings to 100% still nothing changed. what should ı do please help

 

[RasmusP]

I have a problem. Even though I see ffb osciliations in the pedal app, there isn't any effects such as road, kerb, slip, understeer. I raised all of this effects in the settings to 100% still nothing changed. what should ı do please help

Do you have the normal ffb though?
What wheel do you have and what are your gain settings?

The "effects" are only additional, small things and aren't visible in the pedal app.
What you see in the pedal app is the normal ffb.

Can you attach Screenshots of your settings?
If they are too big to upload:
- take the screenshot (alt+print button to capture the window or windows snipping tool)

- save the screenshot as jpg when using snipping tool. Should be compressed enough for uploading

- open paint, press ctrl+V to paste the screenshot into paint

- click on "change size", the icon with the 2 small rectangles and change it to 80% vertical and horizontal

- save as jpg

Now just drag and drop the saved jpg Screenshots into the posting box here in RD and they should successfully upload!

I'll see what's wrong

 

[knightdesser]

Hello, I'm using g27 at the moment. What would u recommend me using? The LUT or the Gamma? Im struggling on catching slides and drift and I'm newbie for this

 

[RasmusP]

Hello, I'm using g27 at the moment. What would u recommend me using? The LUT or the Gamma? Im struggling on catching slides and drift and I'm newbie for this

Definitely LUT!!
I thought about getting this thread archived but it seems that Google sends quite a lot of people to this thread.

Are you using content manager and CSP or only the default game launcher?

 

[knightdesser]

Definitely LUT!!
I thought about getting this thread archived but it seems that Google sends quite a lot of people to this thread.

Are you using content manager and CSP or only the default game launcher?

I'm using CM and have CSP. I tried both of your setting Gamma, LUT but I don't know which 1 feels better. My ffb return rate feels very slow and I keep spun out during corner exit. I also tried FFBClip but I don't like the feel

 

[RasmusP]

I'm using CM and have CSP. I tried both of your setting Gamma, LUT but I don't know which 1 feels better. My ffb return rate feels very slow and I keep spun out during corner exit. I also tried FFBClip but I don't like the feel

I would recommend:
- follow the guide to use the no-clip-but-stronger LUT with 50% gain in CM, Logitech: Overall strength to 100% etc.
Send some Screenshots of your settings so I can check them. (Attached Screenshots need to be quite small. I always use the windows snipping toll and SAVE the Screenshot as jpeg).
Then just drop them in the posting window here.

If you the settings are all correct, the wheel should be "quick enough".
But the Logitech wheels aren't the quickest wheels, no matter the settings. But it should be good enough, so something is wrong here.

Now to make drifting easier there are 2 possibilities (can be combined):
1. Reduce the rotation degrees in the Logitech Software (NOT in the game!). Like 450-600°.
The makes the ingame steering wheel turn quicker than your real wheel. It's bad for immersion, but you can catch slides by simply counter steering with your hands, instead of letting the wheel rotate on its own.
This is how I learnt drifting.
If you go too low, the steering will become too twitchy and you won't be able to drive in a straight line anymore...

2. Use the "FFB TWEAKS" extension in CSP. Activate the new gyro setting and the important bit:
Activate "Range Compression". 200-350% should make the wheel become quicker. It's simulating power steering (AC physics don't simulate power steering!).

 

[knightdesser]

I would recommend:
- follow the guide to use the no-clip-but-stronger LUT with 50% gain in CM, Logitech: Overall strength to 100% etc.
Send some Screenshots of your settings so I can check them. (Attached Screenshots need to be quite small. I always use the windows snipping toll and SAVE the Screenshot as jpeg).
Then just drop them in the posting window here.

If you the settings are all correct, the wheel should be "quick enough".
But the Logitech wheels aren't the quickest wheels, no matter the settings. But it should be good enough, so something is wrong here.

Now to make drifting easier there are 2 possibilities (can be combined):
1. Reduce the rotation degrees in the Logitech Software (NOT in the game!). Like 450-600°.
The makes the ingame steering wheel turn quicker than your real wheel. It's bad for immersion, but you can catch slides by simply counter steering with your hands, instead of letting the wheel rotate on its own.
This is how I learnt drifting.
If you go too low, the steering will become too twitchy and you won't be able to drive in a straight line anymore...

2. Use the "FFB TWEAKS" extension in CSP. Activate the new gyro setting and the important bit:
Activate "Range Compression". 200-350% should make the wheel become quicker. It's simulating power steering (AC physics don't simulate power steering!).

Here is my setting. I changed my steering to 600 degree and Range compression. I've tested this setting and I think it's pretty good. Do I have to keep using 600 degree? I can catch my drift somehow. Thank you so much, I appreciate your help.

 

[RasmusP]

View attachment 575761View attachment 575763View attachment 575762
Here is my setting. I changed my steering to 600 degree and Range compression. I've tested this setting and I think it's pretty good. Do I have to keep using 600 degree? I can catch my drift somehow. Thank you so much, I appreciate your help.

Looks perfect!
As soon as you can catch drifts, you can try to use 900° again!

Another thing:
Below the "Lower speeds FFB reduction" is a setting for "experimental".
It's not visible in your Screenshot.
Did you activate this? (You don't have to!)
If you have, uncheck gyro and set "min damper" to 0%. Should be default!

The other "damper" is at 100% at default. That's just the "rubber" resistance effect when standing still. With Logitech wheels it feels like sandpaper in my opinion so I always set this to 0%.
With my Fanatec wheel I use 60% though.

 

[knightdesser]

Looks perfect!
As soon as you can catch drifts, you can try to use 900° again!

Another thing:
Below the "Lower speeds FFB reduction" is a setting for "experimental".
It's not visible in your Screenshot.
Did you activate this? (You don't have to!)
If you have, uncheck gyro and set "min damper" to 0%. Should be default!

The other "damper" is at 100% at default. That's just the "rubber" resistance effect when standing still. With Logitech wheels it feels like sandpaper in my opinion so I always set this to 0%.
With my Fanatec wheel I use 60% though.

I might use 750 degree for now, thanks for the advice.

I wont touch it the experimental thing. Everything is uncheck and at 0%
I followed every setting that you put here https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-luts-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/ and your suggestion on FFB range compression

My G27 works like something new now and I really appreciate for what you did for me and everyone who needs setting like this. You are the real FFB God who answer my questions.

Thank you again

 

[RasmusP]

I might use 750 degree for now, thanks for the advice.

I wont touch it the experimental thing. Everything is uncheck and at 0%
I followed every setting that you put here https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-luts-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/ and your suggestion on FFB range compression

My G27 works like something new now and I really appreciate for what you did for me and everyone who needs setting like this. You are the real FFB God who answer my questions.

Thank you again

Thanks for the kind words!
Not a god, more like a guru who had to invest many many hours for his own enjoyment and now shares "the wisdom", lol

Experimental sounds good then.

Btw, I see you're drifting but have "slip effect" at 4%. This is a generic sine wave vibration effect that activates when you slide or when you lock up the brakes.
When drifting, this means constant vibrations. You might want to disable it!

If you want some "road noise" while drifting, put the road effect slider to 10-20% instead.

 

[AhmoZaZe]

Do you have the normal ffb though?
What wheel do you have and what are your gain settings?

The "effects" are only additional, small things and aren't visible in the pedal app.
What you see in the pedal app is the normal ffb.

Can you attach Screenshots of your settings?
If they are too big to upload:
- take the screenshot (alt+print button to capture the window or windows snipping tool)

- save the screenshot as jpg when using snipping tool. Should be compressed enough for uploading

- open paint, press ctrl+V to paste the screenshot into paint

- click on "change size", the icon with the 2 small rectangles and change it to 80% vertical and horizontal

- save as jpg

Now just drag and drop the saved jpg Screenshots into the posting box here in RD and they should successfully upload!

I'll see what's wrong

a

Do you have the normal ffb though?
What wheel do you have and what are your gain settings?

The "effects" are only additional, small things and aren't visible in the pedal app.
What you see in the pedal app is the normal ffb.

Can you attach Screenshots of your settings?
If they are too big to upload:
- take the screenshot (alt+print button to capture the window or windows snipping tool)

- save the screenshot as jpg when using snipping tool. Should be compressed enough for uploading

- open paint, press ctrl+V to paste the screenshot into paint

- click on "change size", the icon with the 2 small rectangles and change it to 80% vertical and horizontal

- save as jpg

Now just drag and drop the saved jpg Screenshots into the posting box here in RD and they should successfully upload!

I'll see what's wrong

- first of all, I'm appriciated for your reply. let me explain everything;
- I was running AC on Win10 with Logitech G29 for 2 years with zero problem. I was using "Logitech Gaming Software". My Rpm Led was working fine, no dead center zone, ı could feel road bumps, vibration on kerbs, understeer effects was fine. ı used content manager and some mods but ı don't know anyting about force feedback mods because I only ran setup wizard, made the brake ballast to 1,00 and everything was fine and perfect to go. Then, after two years ı had to reinstall Win10 for some reasons and when I reinstalled and did all the same process on AC, ffb was way too absurd. her's my symptoms:
- rpm led not working / Huge dead center zone (zero ffb) / no vibration on kerbs / no road bump effect / no understeer or oversteer efect / no feedback when I hit the wall
- there is ffb though. wheel only wants to center itself with same tourqe regardless any over/understeer situations. and I noticed that on the pedal app, ffb (the white column on the most right) osciliates on the kerbs or road bumps etc. So I think the problem is either wheel lost its fine torque adjustment or there is a software deffect on the transfer of in-game ffb to the wheel. it's undrivable right now. so I started to find solution:
- I tried to tweak in-game FFB settings and nothing is changed literally. only gamma and minimum force working. If I raise kerb effect to %100, ffb turns red on kerbs but ı feel no ffb like before. If I make it %0, I see no ffb change. around middle (where it's not turning red or zero ffb) I see osciliations but again, no ffb ı feel. my search continues:
- I came up with your answer and tried so. wheelcheck wasn't working on my pc so I used your Lut. It made more drivable. No center dead zone, acceptable general ffb. but again, even though there's correct ffb osciliations in pedal app there is no effects at all. After 3 days of searching, I gave up until I saw your reply. I reformatted my Win10 again and installed AC now and it's still the same. Wheelcheck is not working again.
- Again, thank you for your attention. I hope I can find a way to solve this.

 

[RasmusP]

a

- first of all, I'm appriciated for your reply. let me explain everything;
- I was running AC on Win10 with Logitech G29 for 2 years with zero problem. I was using "Logitech Gaming Software". My Rpm Led was working fine, no dead center zone, ı could feel road bumps, vibration on kerbs, understeer effects was fine. ı used content manager and some mods but ı don't know anyting about force feedback mods because I only ran setup wizard, made the brake ballast to 1,00 and everything was fine and perfect to go. Then, after two years ı had to reinstall Win10 for some reasons and when I reinstalled and did all the same process on AC, ffb was way too absurd. her's my symptoms:
- rpm led not working / Huge dead center zone (zero ffb) / no vibration on kerbs / no road bump effect / no understeer or oversteer efect / no feedback when I hit the wall
- there is ffb though. wheel only wants to center itself with same tourqe regardless any over/understeer situations. and I noticed that on the pedal app, ffb (the white column on the most right) osciliates on the kerbs or road bumps etc. So I think the problem is either wheel lost its fine torque adjustment or there is a software deffect on the transfer of in-game ffb to the wheel. it's undrivable right now. so I started to find solution:
- I tried to tweak in-game FFB settings and nothing is changed literally. only gamma and minimum force working. If I raise kerb effect to %100, ffb turns red on kerbs but ı feel no ffb like before. If I make it %0, I see no ffb change. around middle (where it's not turning red or zero ffb) I see osciliations but again, no ffb ı feel. my search continues:
- I came up with your answer and tried so. wheelcheck wasn't working on my pc so I used your Lut. It made more drivable. No center dead zone, acceptable general ffb. but again, even though there's correct ffb osciliations in pedal app there is no effects at all. After 3 days of searching, I gave up until I saw your reply. I reformatted my Win10 again and installed AC now and it's still the same. Wheelcheck is not working again.
- Again, thank you for your attention. I hope I can find a way to solve this.

I really have no idea what's going on there
I don't think words can help there so please send Screenshots of all steering and ffb related settings.
Content Manager steering settings and ffb settings, csp ffb tweaks extension and your Logitech software settings.
Maybe I or someone else finds something incorrect there!

Apart from that I can only quote another user:

hey, friend. If you are using GHub I'd recommend updating it. The last update a week or two ago fixed this issue with the g920. I was also facing it and it was SUPER annoying.

 

[AhmoZaZe]

I really have no idea what's going on there
I don't think words can help there so please send Screenshots of all steering and ffb related settings.
Content Manager steering settings and ffb settings, csp ffb tweaks extension and your Logitech software settings.
Maybe I or someone else finds something incorrect there!

Apart from that I can only quote another user:

I tried with the GHub. Nothing's changed. Everything is bare stock right now in terms of ffb settings. Rpm Led not working too. I hope anyone can provide some help for this issue

 

[RasmusP]

I tried with the GHub. Nothing's changed. Everything is bare stock right now in terms of ffb settings. Rpm Led not working too. I hope anyone can provide some help for this issue

I sadly have no idea about the LEDs.. My G27 is stored away in the big basement at my parent's house so I can't test anything...

For the rest:
- FFB Tweaks Extensions looks good. I personally like the "More physically accurate gyro". So you could activate that one. Rest is "correct" as it is.

- AC controls -> force feedback settings:
- Filter 26%: that reduces rattling over kerbs but in theory it should be left at 0% to not kill details
- Minimum force 12%: Without my LUTs, that's a good value
- Kerb effect 50%: well, if you use Filter at 26%, you should put kerb to 0%. The kerb effect is just a sine wave rattle signal when your tyre is touching a "surface type = kerb". The actual 3D kerb models that AC has are part of the real ffb and are calculated in the physics engine. So I'd suggest to put Filter to 0% and Kerb effect to 5%.

- Road effect 30%: That's pretty high too but with 26% Filter, you barely feel it, I guess... Put filter to 0% and Road to 5% or 10%.
- Slip and ABS are sine wave vibrations when you slide, lock up or trigger the abs. 10% and 21% are okay, depending on how strong you want the additional cues about what the car is doing.

- rest is ok! I would only suggest to activate "Unlock experimental options" and then set the Damper gain to 0%. I've read about a bug with the G29... But apart from that the Damper gain is the standing still fake-rubber effect that goes away as soon as you start rolling. But I personally really dislike that with Logitech wheels. Feels like sand in the ffb motor instead of "Tyre resistance"...


- Logitech software settings look ok. I'm not sure about the "Centering spring in non ffb games". Does unchecked mean that it's always active? Or is the text changing when you activate that checkbox? In any case, put that setting from 20 down to 0. I don't think there are any non-ffb games out there that aren't more than 10 years old.




Overall, it should feel okay. Not sure how bad 26% Filter are though. Might make everything a bit "dead". The "more and more gain" is weird though.. Seems like something is wrong.
I would test Original Kunos content until things are solved. Something like BMW Z4 GT3 at Mugello.

 

[Rebel_488]

@RasmusP i have switched to a simucube and returned to ac for drifting. I will need to undo all these changes I made for the g29 manually won’t I?

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP i have switched to a simucube and returned to ac for drifting. I will need to undo all these changes I made for the g29 manually won’t I?

Not really!
Just disable ffb post processing to disable the LUT and that's it basically.
You can leave the gain at 50% and the rest should be fine.

I would put "slip effect" to 0% though when drifting. But that's with any wheel, since you don't want constant sine wave fake vibrations when drifting. That's only for racing, when you need to know when locking up or getting wheelspin.

I would personally not go below 50% gain. The dynamic range becomes too big then and can hurt your body when doing a mistake.

Example:
100% gain + 5 Nm Max torque = 5 Nm "nominal power" and 5 Nm max power.

50% gain + 10 Nm = 5 Nm nominal power and 10 Nm max power.

25% gain + 20 Nm = 5 Nm nominal power and 20 Nm max power.

I would personally never use more max torque when drifting than your hands can hold without hurting yourself.
When racing it's different. There, you drive clean and controlled and when you lose control, you just let go of the wheel and push the emergency button if it's getting too wild.

But when drifting, you're constantly changing the hand positioning and if you grab it in the wrong moment and hit something, you can shred your finger etc.

I personally use 60% gain + 7 Nm max torque with my fanatec csw 2.5.
Enough power and enough dynamic to feel everything precisely.
But hitting the barrier etc will be clipped off and limited to 7 Nm.

However, that's with 30cm rim diameter.
If you're using 32cm or 35cm, the equivalents would be 7.5 Nm and 8.2 Nm.

Hope that helps!
If you want, post Screenshots of all your settings, when you think you'd be ready

 

[Rebel_488]

This is an awesome detailed reply man thanks, really helpful, I will do this and get back to u, I’m always amazed how consistently helpful you are. Thank you
Edit to add 17nm sc2 sport and 350mm wheel and loving it haha. Most online profiles seem to recommend 34% gain in game but obv not at max in true drive so maybe it balances out. I will screenshot when home. The profile I have for racing is awesome. The drift one def needs some adjustments however.

Not really!
Just disable ffb post processing to disable the LUT and that's it basically.
You can leave the gain at 50% and the rest should be fine.

I would put "slip effect" to 0% though when drifting. But that's with any wheel, since you don't want constant sine wave fake vibrations when drifting. That's only for racing, when you need to know when locking up or getting wheelspin.

I would personally not go below 50% gain. The dynamic range becomes too big then and can hurt your body when doing a mistake.

Example:
100% gain + 5 Nm Max torque = 5 Nm "nominal power" and 5 Nm max power.

50% gain + 10 Nm = 5 Nm nominal power and 10 Nm max power.

25% gain + 20 Nm = 5 Nm nominal power and 20 Nm max power.

I would personally never use more max torque when drifting than your hands can hold without hurting yourself.
When racing it's different. There, you drive clean and controlled and when you lose control, you just let go of the wheel and push the emergency button if it's getting too wild.

But when drifting, you're constantly changing the hand positioning and if you grab it in the wrong moment and hit something, you can shred your finger etc.

I personally use 60% gain + 7 Nm max torque with my fanatec csw 2.5.
Enough power and enough dynamic to feel everything precisely.
But hitting the barrier etc will be clipped off and limited to 7 Nm.

However, that's with 30cm rim diameter.
If you're using 32cm or 35cm, the equivalents would be 7.5 Nm and 8.2 Nm.

Hope that helps!
If you want, post Screenshots of all your settings, when you think you'd be ready

 

[RasmusP]

This is an awesome detailed reply man thanks, really helpful, I will do this and get back to u, I’m always amazed how consistently helpful you are. Thank you
Edit to add 17nm sc2 sport and 350mm wheel and loving it haha. Most online profiles seem to recommend 34% gain in game but obv not at max in true drive so maybe it balances out. I will screenshot when home. The profile I have for racing is awesome. The drift one def needs some adjustments however.

Thanks for the kind words!
34% gain is totally fine too! Results in higher maximum output.

I personally like things like sausage kerbs, collisions, trees, barriers to be clipped off. One benefit of simracing compared to risk of injuries from real racing wheels

 

[Rebel_488]

currently doesnt feel great, sorry about the widescreen i use an ultrawide on pc but race in vr lol

edit added true drive settingsa

sc2 sport, 350mm wheel