Can anyone share their wheel settings please. I just cannot get it to feel right. Anyone else think the same??
Fanatec Wheel settings
- Thread starter MattBedford
- Start date
Thanks fastard, mine weren't terribly different from yours, have tried and only difference now is my gain is at 80.
Same wheel.
Running the Porsche 991 over the mountain at Bathurst is fantastic.
Same wheel.
Running the Porsche 991 over the mountain at Bathurst is fantastic.
Game gain vs "FF" in the wheel base are the tools to set the amount of dynamic (difference between soft forces and strong forces).
50% in game gain and 100% FF in the base will give you 50% headroom before forces are clipped off. So you will feel bumps pronounced during high speed corners.
If you use 100% in game gain and 50% FF in the base you'll have the same forces in average as both are
0.5 * 1.0 = 0.5 = 1.0 * 0.5
However now you'll be already at 99% ffb in the game during high speed corners so bumps will only have 1% headroom and you won't feel a difference in strength. You'll only get the "direction" part of them.
Instead of a big punch you'll just get a wobble.
Depending on the game I play around with the dynamic of the game's ffb.
With the stronger csw 2.5 I could go with 20% in game gain and 100% FF in the wheel for some games but I don't really like to break my wrists if I hit a tree...
So I prefer 50-70% gain in the games and then dial in the average strength with the FF setting in the wheel.
Some clipping isn't bad at all. You just shouldn't have clipping for the normal driving so you'll feel a difference between each corner.
But stuff like kerbs during high speed corners, sausage kerbs, walls, trees etc should definitely be clipping or you'll have it like in reality: hurting yourself or let go of the wheel...
50% in game gain and 100% FF in the base will give you 50% headroom before forces are clipped off. So you will feel bumps pronounced during high speed corners.
If you use 100% in game gain and 50% FF in the base you'll have the same forces in average as both are
0.5 * 1.0 = 0.5 = 1.0 * 0.5
However now you'll be already at 99% ffb in the game during high speed corners so bumps will only have 1% headroom and you won't feel a difference in strength. You'll only get the "direction" part of them.
Instead of a big punch you'll just get a wobble.
Depending on the game I play around with the dynamic of the game's ffb.
With the stronger csw 2.5 I could go with 20% in game gain and 100% FF in the wheel for some games but I don't really like to break my wrists if I hit a tree...
So I prefer 50-70% gain in the games and then dial in the average strength with the FF setting in the wheel.
Some clipping isn't bad at all. You just shouldn't have clipping for the normal driving so you'll feel a difference between each corner.
But stuff like kerbs during high speed corners, sausage kerbs, walls, trees etc should definitely be clipping or you'll have it like in reality: hurting yourself or let go of the wheel...
Ok cool, I'll return base to 100% tomorrow and play with a lower gain and see how I go.
new settings
fanatec csl elite ps4
base:
sen 1080
ff 100
sho 100
abs 100
dri -2
for 100
spr 100
dpr 100
brf 40
fei 70
in game:
steer lock 900
gain 70
min force 0
dyn damp 100
road 0
fanatec csl elite ps4
base:
sen 1080
ff 100
sho 100
abs 100
dri -2
for 100
spr 100
dpr 100
brf 40
fei 70
in game:
steer lock 900
gain 70
min force 0
dyn damp 100
road 0
These are Aris's settings for a DD2 from his 1.3.10 video. He also mentions other wheels. Skip to 1:27.00
In ACC
Gain 30-40
Min Force 0
Dynamic Damp 100
Road 0
Freq 333hz
Wheel DD2
FFB 50-60
Spring 100
Damper 100
Natural Damper 50
Natural Friction 0
On my DD1 I like:
FFB 45
Spring 100
Damper 100
Natural Damper 25
Natural Friction 5
In ACC
Gain 30-40
Min Force 0
Dynamic Damp 100
Road 0
Freq 333hz
Wheel DD2
FFB 50-60
Spring 100
Damper 100
Natural Damper 50
Natural Friction 0
On my DD1 I like:
FFB 45
Spring 100
Damper 100
Natural Damper 25
Natural Friction 5
