Can anyone share their wheel settings please. I just cannot get it to feel right. Anyone else think the same??
Fanatec Wheel settings
- Thread starter MattBedford
- Start date
Glad you liked. I'm tempted to tweak this just a little to lighten up the steering, though. While it feels great, I recently found I was getting a bit tired towards the end of a long stint. I'll see if tweaking the DRI helps at all as I don't want to mess with the rest of it.
Hey Jayk, It's been a couple of months since your post but I used to have some trouble with my CSL 2.5...
When you set the Drift setting (DRI) to a positive number the wheel tries to pull away from center, the idea is to aid the rotation for drifting. Decrease the DRI setting to 0 or a negative number and the wheel should stop trying to pull away from the center.
I know this is an older thread but I’m trying to not make a new one for this.
In AC I use the Auto-adjust scale to match cars steer lock in Content Manager, but the auto ability that some say is also in ACC just doesn’t seem to work for me.
If I set it to Auto on the base and 1080 in the sim the wheel matches the virtual wheel position but the rotation of course is then 1080 which is around twice what these cars use and isn’t very controllable in slower corners as I’d expect as they don’t run high rotation in the real cars, if I set 720 for the Audi(each car is different) on the base and in sim it match’s and it’s a good rotation.
So, why isn’t the cars actual rotation automatically being assigned to the wheel, some say it does, not for me.
In AC I use the Auto-adjust scale to match cars steer lock in Content Manager, but the auto ability that some say is also in ACC just doesn’t seem to work for me.
If I set it to Auto on the base and 1080 in the sim the wheel matches the virtual wheel position but the rotation of course is then 1080 which is around twice what these cars use and isn’t very controllable in slower corners as I’d expect as they don’t run high rotation in the real cars, if I set 720 for the Audi(each car is different) on the base and in sim it match’s and it’s a good rotation.
So, why isn’t the cars actual rotation automatically being assigned to the wheel, some say it does, not for me.
W.Fox
Verstappen 2.0
I know most are running FF and FOR at 100 to get the full effect or power of the base but it's way too much for me.
I've always tuned my rim to best find the subtle indicators, and specifically tune it for slow speed corners as this is where I gain those precious 10ths.
Another interesting consideration involves the progressive in game dynamic dampening setting.
I adjusted this endlessly and eventually zeroed it out as it was washing out my signal giving a dull flat feel.
Aris had this to say about it last year...
"Dynamic damping works constantly and becomes even more important as the speed raises. It is a result of the gyroscopic forces from the wheels. It makes the wheel more "unwilling" to move from whatever angle the front wheels point, and the faster you go the more it does so. That's why on some wheels would completely saturate the signal and cause a very flat FFB feelings"
So my rim tune goes against the grain as even Fanatec have said leave FF at 100 to get the full effect, then adjust gain in game to suit. Nonetheless, here are my very light settings that give me the best experience on the Fanatec CSL Xbox P1.
In Sim
Gain 67
Minimum 0
Dynamic 0
Road 0
Steer 900
Brake 1.07
Rim
Sen 900
FF 77
Sho 0
Abs 0
Dr1 0
For 60
Spr 30
Dpr 0
Fei 0
I've always tuned my rim to best find the subtle indicators, and specifically tune it for slow speed corners as this is where I gain those precious 10ths.
Another interesting consideration involves the progressive in game dynamic dampening setting.
I adjusted this endlessly and eventually zeroed it out as it was washing out my signal giving a dull flat feel.
Aris had this to say about it last year...
"Dynamic damping works constantly and becomes even more important as the speed raises. It is a result of the gyroscopic forces from the wheels. It makes the wheel more "unwilling" to move from whatever angle the front wheels point, and the faster you go the more it does so. That's why on some wheels would completely saturate the signal and cause a very flat FFB feelings"
So my rim tune goes against the grain as even Fanatec have said leave FF at 100 to get the full effect, then adjust gain in game to suit. Nonetheless, here are my very light settings that give me the best experience on the Fanatec CSL Xbox P1.
In Sim
Gain 67
Minimum 0
Dynamic 0
Road 0
Steer 900
Brake 1.07
Rim
Sen 900
FF 77
Sho 0
Abs 0
Dr1 0
For 60
Spr 30
Dpr 0
Fei 0
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I don’t understand your issue here, just leave FF on base at 100 and lower the Gain in sim to match the same strength feel with the added bonus that you are not lowering the wheel base headroom so less risk of FFB clipping.
And why on earth do you have FEI on 0? You are getting rid of so much detail.
All these posts in here. I'm not saying that one is right or one is wrong but I'm really scratching my head a lot.
For, spr and dpr should simply always be set to 100.
Barely any games make use of spr and dpr anyway and if they do it has a reason.
Dpr for example is the standing still rubber force in assetto corsa and acc. So your wheel is similar to real wheel when standing still.
Dpr is also used in codemaster games for the "weight" sliders. There are ingame settings that you simply kill when setting spr and dpr to 0.
It's a myth from more than a decade ago when games barely had ffb and used spr and dpr a lot to fake ffb or whatever.
Then for: if there are no spr and dpr effects its exactly the same thing as the overall FF setting. Just let it at 100.
Fine tune the ffb with ingame settings and then set the overall strength.
Ingame gain vs base FF:
The ingame gain has a clipping limit and the base FF setting is a scale with a hard output limit.
This results in:
Low gain, high FF = more dynamic ffb
High gain, low FF = less dynamic ffb
Now with most games you want a bit more dynamic than the default settings as they are mostly set for logitech wheels.
Many people say you'd want the most dynamic you can get.
Have fun running kinda soft overall ffb and then hitting a sausage kerb in raceroom or a cattle grid in dirt rally. Or trees.
I tested this and my wrists just hurt. Too much dynamic isn't as great as many think...
If you reach the level of real life dynamic, which sims can pretty nicely simulate if combined with a high end DD, you'll also end up with broken arms if you don't let go before a crash.
My 2 cents about this. Play with the dynamic that feels good for you. I mostly aim for not clipping during cornering but heavy kerbs, sausage kerbs, crashes, trees etc should be cut off in strength.
So for acc I run 70% ingame gain, 75% base gain. For, spr, dpr at 100.
Dynamic dampening 70%, min force 1%, road 3%.
Drift mode: the positive values are simply hilarious if you're in a sim. You might need it to drift with forza or grid games..
0/off is too light on my csw 2.5. You have no base resistance to lean against so you have to control your steering inputs in both directions during the first degrees of steering input.
I mostly run -1 to -3. Minus 5 is too slow.
I tested this with the BMW e30 drift in ac.
With drift = off you can't really drift. You initiate the drift and when you let go of the wheel it will turn so quickly that the car will go straight again instead of running nicely into full opposite lock.
-2 was a good setting for controllable drifting. Initiating, letting go, catching the wheel and then actively steer back when finishing the drift.
FEI: afaik the default for the csl elite is 50?
The csl might rattle a lot more than the csw so it might be a good idea to stick to default.
Anyway default equals = full details.
Lowering it is a smoothing algorithm. And 0 you can hit a sausage kerb and it feel like driving through a puddle of water.
With the csw 2.5 I do agree that 100 is too much for ACC.
However 80 or 90 is the way to go imo. All details but not excessive, crazy shaking over every mini bump.
100 feels like driving in the rims without rubber between the tarmac and the car.
But more than 20 below fanatec default is really a mushy something without any details at all.
No idea how you could be quick and in control with that.
For, spr and dpr should simply always be set to 100.
Barely any games make use of spr and dpr anyway and if they do it has a reason.
Dpr for example is the standing still rubber force in assetto corsa and acc. So your wheel is similar to real wheel when standing still.
Dpr is also used in codemaster games for the "weight" sliders. There are ingame settings that you simply kill when setting spr and dpr to 0.
It's a myth from more than a decade ago when games barely had ffb and used spr and dpr a lot to fake ffb or whatever.
Then for: if there are no spr and dpr effects its exactly the same thing as the overall FF setting. Just let it at 100.
Fine tune the ffb with ingame settings and then set the overall strength.
Ingame gain vs base FF:
The ingame gain has a clipping limit and the base FF setting is a scale with a hard output limit.
This results in:
Low gain, high FF = more dynamic ffb
High gain, low FF = less dynamic ffb
Now with most games you want a bit more dynamic than the default settings as they are mostly set for logitech wheels.
Many people say you'd want the most dynamic you can get.
Have fun running kinda soft overall ffb and then hitting a sausage kerb in raceroom or a cattle grid in dirt rally. Or trees.
I tested this and my wrists just hurt. Too much dynamic isn't as great as many think...
If you reach the level of real life dynamic, which sims can pretty nicely simulate if combined with a high end DD, you'll also end up with broken arms if you don't let go before a crash.
My 2 cents about this. Play with the dynamic that feels good for you. I mostly aim for not clipping during cornering but heavy kerbs, sausage kerbs, crashes, trees etc should be cut off in strength.
So for acc I run 70% ingame gain, 75% base gain. For, spr, dpr at 100.
Dynamic dampening 70%, min force 1%, road 3%.
Drift mode: the positive values are simply hilarious if you're in a sim. You might need it to drift with forza or grid games..
0/off is too light on my csw 2.5. You have no base resistance to lean against so you have to control your steering inputs in both directions during the first degrees of steering input.
I mostly run -1 to -3. Minus 5 is too slow.
I tested this with the BMW e30 drift in ac.
With drift = off you can't really drift. You initiate the drift and when you let go of the wheel it will turn so quickly that the car will go straight again instead of running nicely into full opposite lock.
-2 was a good setting for controllable drifting. Initiating, letting go, catching the wheel and then actively steer back when finishing the drift.
FEI: afaik the default for the csl elite is 50?
The csl might rattle a lot more than the csw so it might be a good idea to stick to default.
Anyway default equals = full details.
Lowering it is a smoothing algorithm. And 0 you can hit a sausage kerb and it feel like driving through a puddle of water.
With the csw 2.5 I do agree that 100 is too much for ACC.
However 80 or 90 is the way to go imo. All details but not excessive, crazy shaking over every mini bump.
100 feels like driving in the rims without rubber between the tarmac and the car.
But more than 20 below fanatec default is really a mushy something without any details at all.
No idea how you could be quick and in control with that.
Hi Rasmus,
I recently switched from g27 to csw 2.5 and would really love to know what settings you use in ac. I've used your ffb lut for g27 for over a year and it was a game changer for me. Could you share your full ingame and base settings for csw 2.5?
Thank you in advance!
Chris.
Base:
Sen: 900
FF: 100
Sho: don't have a vibration rim
Abs: don't have vibration rim/pedal
Dri: -2 (road cars up to -5, GT3 cars -1 sometimes)
For: 100
Spr: 100
Dpr: 100
Fei: 100 (maybe down to 90 on some rought and bumpy tracks/cars)
In-Game:
Rotation: 900°
Auto-Adjust scale to match car: NOT
Gamma: 1.0
Scale: 100%
Filter: 0%
Speed sensi: 0%
Gain: 50%
Filter: 0%
Min Force: 0.5%
Kerb: 1%
Road: 4%
Slip: 20%
ABS: 20%
Enhanced Unsersteer: NOT
Soft Lock: NOT
Skip FFB steps: 0
Enable FFB post-processing: NOT
Experimental:
Unlock experimental options: CHECKED
Gyro: CHECKED
Damper gain: 100%
Min damper level: 0%
Example cars:
Lambo GT3, per car multiplier around the Nordschleife: 74%, dri at - 2 (with - 1 the turn in is too sluggish to be precise).
Nice to drive and the compression and aero strength increase through high speed turns is awesome!
Another example: old Mazda mx-5 na around la Canyons, per car multi 100-140, dri to - 4 or - 5.
It's a weak car and needs some less dynamic, beefy feeling.
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That's a good question, I honestly don't know. The gyro setting is so subtle that I barely feel it at all. Setting dpr to 0 would probably be more a placebo test rather than leading to a definitive result.
Spr shouldn't do anything though, putting it to 0 doesn't change anything in assetto corsa or acc.
Why would you want to leave it off though? Do you dislike the "standing still simulation"? Because that's the only situation (plus activated gyro) where the damper does anything at all.okay, guess I'll leave it at off at the base. Did a few tests and you are right...doesn't felt much different
In some games (Dirt Rally for example), Damper adds something to the force feedback. It's dynamic and not just a static resistance.
It's an old myth that it's best to put spring and damper to 0. Some people like my always tell that to everyone at every occasion but whelp, a few million stupid posts all over the internet each day and even pro drivers shouting into the world again and again that everyone has to put them to 0 is hard to go against...
If you dislike standing still resistances though, it's fine of course. You could disable that in the AC settings or for ACC in the controls file but I understand it. I hated it with my G27
New setups coming??? With several new Versions (Updates) since late July... ??
Good one, im also interested if you changed anything with your csw 2.5 base/ingame settings for ACC since a bunch of new updates are out in the meantime @RasmusP Still driving your settings in both AC as wel as ACC and loving it so far
Rory Wetherington
pflynhi
I use the fanatec recommended settings with my CSW 2.5 and V3 pedals which are as follows...
ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN 900
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference ***my setting = OFF
DRI -01
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
BRF User Preference *** my setting = 50
FEI 100
*SPR and DPR values have no effect.
In-Game Settings:
Steer lock: 900
Gain: 70
Min Force: 0
Dynamic Damping: 100
Road Effects: 0
ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN 900
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference ***my setting = OFF
DRI -01
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
BRF User Preference *** my setting = 50
FEI 100
*SPR and DPR values have no effect.
In-Game Settings:
Steer lock: 900
Gain: 70
Min Force: 0
Dynamic Damping: 100
Road Effects: 0
I know this is an old thread but I am a new member and I just bought a CSL Elite PS4 and I try to set it up.
I play on PC and after some experimentation these are my settings :
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN 1080
FF 70
SHO 100
ABS 100
DRI -02
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
FEI 70
In-Game Settings:
Steer lock: 900
Gain: 60
Min Force: 0
Dynamic Damping: 80
Road Effects: 0
Please try them and share your impressions and eventual suggestions/improvements.
I play on PC and after some experimentation these are my settings :
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN 1080
FF 70
SHO 100
ABS 100
DRI -02
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
FEI 70
In-Game Settings:
Steer lock: 900
Gain: 60
Min Force: 0
Dynamic Damping: 80
Road Effects: 0
Please try them and share your impressions and eventual suggestions/improvements.
