Fanatec CSL DD -Mclaren GT3 V2 Fail
- Thread starter vee10
- Start date
For me it has gotten to the point I opened a support ticket.
The shaft keeps slipping out, even with everything lined up correctly and it torqued down to the point I can barely loosen it by hand when I have to go through the process again.
It used to be weeks before I had to do this. But it has now gotten to the point it happens pretty consistently within an hour of use.
Maybe I just have a unit where the tolerances of the individual parts add up to be just too loose. As I had this problem first occur the first day of use after receiving the CSL DD.
The shaft keeps slipping out, even with everything lined up correctly and it torqued down to the point I can barely loosen it by hand when I have to go through the process again.
It used to be weeks before I had to do this. But it has now gotten to the point it happens pretty consistently within an hour of use.
Maybe I just have a unit where the tolerances of the individual parts add up to be just too loose. As I had this problem first occur the first day of use after receiving the CSL DD.
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The wheel disconnected on me a few times already, pretty annoying while playing. Readjusting and tightening the clamp always did the trick but i don't see it as a solution to tighten it down every now and then...so i found this on ebay:
Fanatec CSL DD Pro Shaft Clamp Fix *Aluminium* Wheel Mod DD1 Podium Clubsport | eBay
The original one-piece shaft clamp that is included with the Fanatec CSL DD / Gran Turismo DD Pro wheelbase is flawed by the fact it does not provide an even clamping force on both sides of the collar.
www.ebay.com
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Looks like a nice solution, pretty pricy though. Especially if it's only made in the UK like some sim stuff I've looked into. Shipping to the EU nowadays is costly business. Often like doubles the price.
Normal clamp I believe is 15Nm, but I don't have a torque wrench so every time mine slipped out, I've tightened it more, seems good atm. But due to moving and having no good room for my rig, I haven't used it in a while.
But curious to hear how it works out for you.
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Probably 10Nm.
It says at the bottom of the description 5Nm, I have got one but have not got round to installing it as yet.
From the description.
You will need: A 5mm allen key (similar to the one required for the one piece clamp). Torque setting around 5nm max (hand tight). Do not overtighten as you could damage the plastic collar in the wheelbase.
From the description.
You will need: A 5mm allen key (similar to the one required for the one piece clamp). Torque setting around 5nm max (hand tight). Do not overtighten as you could damage the plastic collar in the wheelbase.
Thats true.
The seller states the following:
"You will need: A 5mm allen key (similar to the one required for the one piece clamp). Torque setting around 5nm max (hand tight). Do not overtighten as you could damage the plastic collar in the wheelbase."
According to Fanatec the stock clamp should be tightened to 10nm:
https://admin.forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25936/gt-dd-pro-shaft-disconnect-permanent-fix-found
That's why i was asking...
in the end i just tightened the sides both side by side to get an even clamping. I guess it's a bit over 5nm. If it won't suffice i tighten it more.
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It is way too pricy... but for now it seems to work quite well. No disconnects after multiple days of pushing the wheel pretty hard.
Attachments
My original clamp is now at 15Nm as at 10Nm it still came loose, but since I put it at 15Nm I have not had a problem for over 6 months, that's why I am reluctant to try the replacement collar I bought.Thats true.
The seller states the following:
"You will need: A 5mm allen key (similar to the one required for the one piece clamp). Torque setting around 5nm max (hand tight). Do not overtighten as you could damage the plastic collar in the wheelbase."
According to Fanatec the stock clamp should be tightened to 10nm:
https://admin.forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25936/gt-dd-pro-shaft-disconnect-permanent-fix-found
That's why i was asking...
If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Valid point
5Nm is not enough, I wouldn't go below 8Nm.
I've been having temporary gear change drop outs on DD PRO with McLaren GT3 V2 for a year, would kick back in after 30secs of coasting around as the rest of the wheel base and pedals worked.
At the beginning of the week got a complete disconnect and that has brought me here.
Shaft had drifted forward, popped back in and got me up and running - but now keeps coming loose.
Somehow along my digging I've found an unlisted Official Fanatec video on Youtube
Not sure its been featured here as a few vids say no longer available, figured I'd post it anyway.
States tighten to 15nm (at 50secs in)
I've just ordered a replacement split shaft collar clamp - available from bearing and engineering outlets or on flebay.
The same style collar appears to be supplied with the QR2, the official Fanatec video says tighten this to Approx 8m,
I'll start at 5nm and work my way up!
At the beginning of the week got a complete disconnect and that has brought me here.
Shaft had drifted forward, popped back in and got me up and running - but now keeps coming loose.
Somehow along my digging I've found an unlisted Official Fanatec video on Youtube
Not sure its been featured here as a few vids say no longer available, figured I'd post it anyway.
States tighten to 15nm (at 50secs in)
I've just ordered a replacement split shaft collar clamp - available from bearing and engineering outlets or on flebay.
The same style collar appears to be supplied with the QR2, the official Fanatec video says tighten this to Approx 8m,
I'll start at 5nm and work my way up!
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I have the same issue on H-pattern mode with my SQ1.5
The issue is supposed to be static electricity. Avoided by grounding one's rig. I however always move it in place so find it too much of a hassle to do so.
As for shifting on the rim, never had issues. Except the disconnection of the shaft part. But then FFB goes 1st, then all inputs except steering, if not complete disconnect.
My shaft slipped out within 2 laps after purchasing the pre-order CSL DD. Thanks Fanatec QC, it was not a known issue then, so took me 2 weeks to figure out.
Still happens sometimes, but that's due to both having to unlearn the tendency to pull on the rim when braking (too much slop in seat<>wheel stand connection) and probably partly my having a tiny bit of a lemon with tolerances (having tightened the collar just above spec every time)
My electrical knowledge isn't the best, but from what I've read and what I hopefully know correctly:
- You could ground it with a plug. If you're like me and have 10+ "charging, maybe also USB 2.0" USB cables flying around from all kinds of devices and a very basic 5V charger. Put the charger into the same wall socket as the PC (and wheelbase) to not get a ground-loop.
Then use any USB extension to bring the USB socket into a good position.
Now we need to solder, sadly:
- Cut off the micro-USB end (or whatever it is) and you'll have either 2/3/4/5 wires. Isolate the 5V wire and if there are, the data wires (shrink tube/electro tape).
- solder a screw-loop to the ground wire (if there's shielding, solder them together)
- use a free screw-hole on your wheelstand and connect the screw-loop with it.
- alternatively: tape the ground wire (+ shielding) to the wheelstand
What might also help: Do you have ferrite beads on your cables? The CSL DD/Pro is known for massive EMI issues. Putting ferrite beads works wonders for a lot of DIY-Simracers with often poorly shielded custom gear.
Helped me a lot with my DIY buttonplate.
Hmm, with all Fanatec gear only connected I use the default cables, power & RJ12.
No extension cables or USB hubs. Gear all plugged into the wheelbase, everything else disconnected. So only 1 power cable, 1 usb cable.
CSL DD 8Nm | V3s | SQ 1.5 | handbrake/elgato stream deck/dash display not connected
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Ferrite beads work on any cable. They work best for low frequency signals, since they block high frequencies best.
So they wouldn't be great for audio signals..
USB isn't low frequency, but they still help.
For anything lower, like a constant voltage from a hall sensor, load cell, potentiometer or button: ferrite beads work wonders!
So I've bought one of these 40 piece bags from Amazon and put them on all my cables. Pedals, shifter, button box, USB cables etc.
They work best when being as close to the ends as possible. And if you have bigger issues, use a bigger bead and loop the cable, so it goes through a second time.
Around 10 bucks, well spent.
Butthurt_Saddle_sore
Premium
Start with 8Nm. Going with 5Nm isn't enough and will allow the shaft to slide out.
Still having issue
I've recently had my CSL P1 V2 wheel return from a friend , so I've tried that for about 2 weeks as a test.
I know what to look for now if that "disconnects", I can press in the flat center of the wheel and will feel the USB reseat slightly, so I've been increasing the collar screws, to a point where I'm not getting any issues with that wheel anymore.
As soon as I put the GT3 v2 wheel back on, within 5 mins , gear changes and buttons stop working for 20-30 seconds and then kick back in, with the wheel going light for a couple of seconds more, then its fine for 30-40 mins.
When in no gearshift mode - pressing in the middle (not as easy as there are buttons - and I'm in a VR
headset) I don't feel any movement or reseat, which I did when running the P1V2
I put the CSL P1 V2 back in and manage to go 2 evenings without an issue. Pretty sure this issue is with GT3 wheel, not the base\hub drift out.
I've raised a support ticket with Fanatec - Will update how that goes!
Butthurt_Saddle_sore
Premium
Hopefully that is it. Fingers crossed and thanks for updating.
