Fanatec CSL DD -Mclaren GT3 V2 Fail

[vee10]

I've been in touch with @Lazarou via PM, things are back on track. We'll also investigate what went wrong here to avoid such mistakes in future.

Nothing doing I'm afraid.

It appears the new DD & boost kit has been allocated a tracking number but the tracking does not work.

The second hand McLaren wheel is still here waiting for a collection to be booked so I can then inform Fanatec to get a new one sent from Germany.

I don't know if Fanatec want the quick release back as they won't reply to my email, (it is in a worse condition than when I returned it the first time).

All my emails go unanswered.

Now if I had given a customer a bad experience (I work in the service industry) this would be a top priority but I am being made to feel like some sort of irritant when I am the one who has been wronged.

I am absolutely fuming now

Edit: Collection booked but something is wrong with the delivery of the DD as it should be on the system by now

 

[vee10]

I don't know if I should laugh or cry the McLaren wheel rim got picked today up at 12:10 and my replacement CSL DD arrived at 13:30 so thankfully I now have it but I still can't use it due to fact I have no wheel.

I must have offended the sim racing gods at some point

 

[blekenbleu]

offended the sim racing gods

Perhaps by referring to goddesses as gods.

 

[vee10]

So got my base replaced last Friday, wheel arrived this Friday minus QR1 lite as that is missing with UPS. Got on track this morning as I had kept the old QR1 because I had a bad feeling something would happen. It didn't go well and I have had to contact Fanatec again with this message below

Firmware version Wheel base: 1.0.3.2 Steering wheel: Pedals: Driver version: 415 Error reproducible in error page: 1 The issue occors: games The issue occurs in the game(s):Every game Connections: USB Setup: CSL DD, Mclaren V2, Heusinkveld sprint pedals, Thrustmaster TR8, DSD Button Box Problem description: Hi Right then it's your annoying customer Paul, I have had my replacement base and replacement wheel running for a few hours, my replacement QR lite is currently lost in transit but I have another one to use. I have two issues with the replacements and I will detail below. After about two hours driving the same issue occurred as the original setup, driving in F12021 the wheel went off along with the screen and it was non responsive, I immediately quit the game and looked at the software and to my dismay my McLaren wheel had disappeared AGAIN. So I took it off checked all the connections, the pins the bolts etc and still nothing so with increasing frustration I started to checking the CSL DD base, after a while of checking the USB's etc and going through power cycles, in desperation I undid the locking clamp on the base shaft and retightened it up and tried the wheel again and to my amazement the wheel sprung to life! I can replicate this fault by undoing the clamp and moving the shaft and the wheel goes off and on. This appears the same as what happened the first time. So back on track we go, after more driving I notice a slight clunk when turning in high speed corners so again I am mad and frustrated, but I thought I should investigate, after half an hour of investigating I discover it's the QR1 lite clamp that is moving within the grooved area just fractionally, so a bit of electrical tape in the groove and this now fixed. I have to say I am dismayed and totally lacking in confidence on the items I bought, it feel like I am doing beta testing on them or something, there appears to be some quality issues somewhere and I am having to work round them, it's only that I am willing to try and resolve things that I can actually use the base and wheel. So the issues are Shaft went loose and wheel went off, appears fixed but who knows. It would be handy if I could get the recommended bolt torque values for it from you. QR1 lite missing with UPS QR1 lite that I have not working correctly on shaft and moving within groove. I would appreciate someone getting in touch to discuss this, really I do not want to be without a wheel again as it took over 3 weeks to resolve last time but I disappointed that I am having to fix and mitigate issues caused by apparent quality/manufacturing issues. I have attached a image of my QR1 lite fix. Regards

 

[RasmusP]

So got my base replaced last Friday, wheel arrived this Friday minus QR1 lite as that is missing with UPS. Got on track this morning as I had kept the old QR1 because I had a bad feeling something would happen. It didn't go well and I have had to contact Fanatec again with this message below

Firmware version Wheel base: 1.0.3.2 Steering wheel: Pedals: Driver version: 415 Error reproducible in error page: 1 The issue occors: games The issue occurs in the game(s):Every game Connections: USB Setup: CSL DD, Mclaren V2, Heusinkveld sprint pedals, Thrustmaster TR8, DSD Button Box Problem description: Hi Right then it's your annoying customer Paul, I have had my replacement base and replacement wheel running for a few hours, my replacement QR lite is currently lost in transit but I have another one to use. I have two issues with the replacements and I will detail below. After about two hours driving the same issue occurred as the original setup, driving in F12021 the wheel went off along with the screen and it was non responsive, I immediately quit the game and looked at the software and to my dismay my McLaren wheel had disappeared AGAIN. So I took it off checked all the connections, the pins the bolts etc and still nothing so with increasing frustration I started to checking the CSL DD base, after a while of checking the USB's etc and going through power cycles, in desperation I undid the locking clamp on the base shaft and retightened it up and tried the wheel again and to my amazement the wheel sprung to life! I can replicate this fault by undoing the clamp and moving the shaft and the wheel goes off and on. This appears the same as what happened the first time. So back on track we go, after more driving I notice a slight clunk when turning in high speed corners so again I am mad and frustrated, but I thought I should investigate, after half an hour of investigating I discover it's the QR1 lite clamp that is moving within the grooved area just fractionally, so a bit of electrical tape in the groove and this now fixed. I have to say I am dismayed and totally lacking in confidence on the items I bought, it feel like I am doing beta testing on them or something, there appears to be some quality issues somewhere and I am having to work round them, it's only that I am willing to try and resolve things that I can actually use the base and wheel. So the issues are Shaft went loose and wheel went off, appears fixed but who knows. It would be handy if I could get the recommended bolt torque values for it from you. QR1 lite missing with UPS QR1 lite that I have not working correctly on shaft and moving within groove. I would appreciate someone getting in touch to discuss this, really I do not want to be without a wheel again as it took over 3 weeks to resolve last time but I disappointed that I am having to fix and mitigate issues caused by apparent quality/manufacturing issues. I have attached a image of my QR1 lite fix. Regards

Damn...
About qr lite + csl dd:
I had the same little slipping when cornering. The "rotation locking fins" in the qr1 lite seem to be too small. Or the csl DD qr side has a too wide nut-slid.

The base side qr coming loose is just urghs... Explains the power loss of the wheel though!

Annoyingly you probably could've saved all the hassle and delays by just tightening the wheel side qr on the shaft on your first wheelbase...

About trusting your products:
Apart from the QR on the shaft and the qr1 lite fins being a bit too small, I can reassure you about the quality of the McLaren v2 and the DD base itself.
Both very sturdy products with almost no quality issues known to me.
I'm using the McLaren v2 quite intensively since a few months without issues and these DD bases are super reliable by the kind of design that they are

A plastic part being a bit outside of the tolerances in covid plagued China and a not tightened enough screw on the wheelside qr aren't a sign for electronic or mechanical failures in the future.
But I totally get how you must feel right now!

 

[vee10]

Damn...
About qr lite + csl dd:
I had the same little slipping when cornering. The "rotation locking fins" in the qr1 lite seem to be too small. Or the csl DD qr side has a too wide nut-slid.

The base side qr coming loose is just urghs... Explains the power loss of the wheel though!

Annoyingly you probably could've saved all the hassle and delays by just tightening the wheel side qr on the shaft on your first wheelbase...

About trusting your products:
Apart from the QR on the shaft and the qr1 lite fins being a bit too small, I can reassure you about the quality of the McLaren v2 and the DD base itself.
Both very sturdy products with almost no quality issues known to me.
I'm using the McLaren v2 quite intensively since a few months without issues and these DD bases are super reliable by the kind of design that they are

A plastic part being a bit outside of the tolerances in covid plagued China and a not tightened enough screw on the wheelside qr aren't a sign for electronic or mechanical failures in the future.
But I totally get how you must feel right now!

Hi Rasmus, appreciate the reply, you've pretty much nailed it. So far the wheel is working okay now, it is a great piece of kit in comparison to my T300 but a very frustrating process getting to this point. Some of it can't be helped but some of it is very frustrating and I feel should not have happened. Plastic and metal is not a good mix in any high stress environment and like a lot of people will probably upgrade to the V2 QR at some point, I almost bought another wheel in the black Friday sale but I thought I better get this one working first.

I got back into sim racing after ordering the CSL DD in August which led me to buying a new sim rig which was missing some bolts when it arrived, I thought I could use my old Fanatec CSR Elite load cell pedals on it for a bit but the rubber perished in the load cell not long after attaching to my rig and there is no replacement. So I had to get a set of Sprints to replace them, so it has been one thing after another

I will be interested to see what Fanatec say as like you said if I had been told or knew about the shaft problem I would probably have been able to resolve things myself without a load of hassle and maybe 20+ emails and 3 weeks of messing about.

Anyway hopefully the new QR1 lite eventually shows up and maybe is better than one I am currently using.

Paul

 

[super_gt]

Shaft went loose and wheel went off, appears fixed but who knows. It would be handy if I could get the recommended bolt torque values for it from you.

15 Newton meters of torque for the C-clamp bolt will solve this problem.

 

[vee10]

It's still working so I am leaving well alone but thanks for the information.

Flawed genius is how I would describe it, coming from a T300 it's better in every way and driving in every sim I have tried is so much better, bumps, kerbs, slides there is no comparison.

Could have done without all the grief though, the clamp still is not right but I have a plan but will have to wait until go back to work tomorrow.

 

[manu68]

Glad to see that finalement you got a wheel you can use and enjoy.
Great news !

 

[RasmusP]

the clamp still is not right but I have a plan but will have to wait until go back to work tomorrow.

What clamp specifically?
QR base side to base-shaft?

 

[vee10]

What clamp specifically?
QR base side to base-shaft?

 

[vee10]

FYI I kept having a problem with the electrical tape with it slipping on the shaft, so I tried some rock climbing finger tape that is a cloth based tape and seems to provided the extra packing out and also some grip to the clamp. So far been running about 2 hours with it driving high downforce cars on various sims and it is holding fast so far.

 

[RasmusP]

Nice to hear! In theory you would need to thicken the 2 "ribs" inside the qr1 lite. Something that has some spring effect would be perfect.
As a manufacturer, I would make the rips wider and make them compress a little bit when sliding into the QR base side.
The slot has some narrowing at the beginning that could do the compression smoothly.

I guess some good tape has a similar effect and also dampens the "contact-noise" a bit.

Overall I think fanatec should offer some classic "clamp" like the shaft clamp on the DD bases.
I only have one wheel... Clamp that tight and be done with it.
I don't need a rattling qr...

 

[northernmonkey]

Hey, just powered up my CSL DD and McLaren wheel and by the looks of it i have the exact same issue, wheel is dead and not showing on control center.

 

[vee10]

Hey, just powered up my CSL DD and McLaren wheel and by the looks of it i have the exact same issue, wheel is dead and not showing on control center.

This seems to be happening way too much, Fanatec admitted to me they know they have a issue and are working on something.

If you feel confident enough I suggest undoing the black shaft clamp with a allen key while the wheel is connected, take the weight of the wheel and very gently move it, if your lucky it should recognise your wheel, if it does tighten the clamp back up and you should be okay.

Mine has been fine since I fixed it myself, Fanatec also recommended that I buy and use a metal clubsport QR (I negotiated a discount which still seams a bit unfair) which I have done and fitted but it still needs the bolt fitting to make it completely secure.

 

[northernmonkey]

This seems to be happening way too much, Fanatec admitted to me they know they have a issue and are working on something.

If you feel confident enough I suggest undoing the black shaft clamp with a allen key while the wheel is connected, take the weight of the wheel and very gently move it, if your lucky it should recognise your wheel, if it does tighten the clamp back up and you should be okay.

Mine has been fine since I fixed it myself, Fanatec also recommended that I buy and use a metal clubsport QR (I negotiated a discount which still seams a bit unfair) which I have done and fitted but it still needs the bolt fitting to make it completely secure.

Thanks for the quick reply on this, gutted as wanted a good sesh on my rig and having three kids and a nagging mrs i dont get much time to play.
My wheel does have the quick release fitted, would your method still work?

 

[vee10]

Thanks for the quick reply on this, gutted as wanted a good sesh on my rig and having three kids and a nagging mrs i dont get much time to play.
My wheel does have the quick release fitted, would your method still work?

It was moving the shaft that fixed the missing wheel for me, it did it on the original and the bloody replacement, I was fuming so I thought I would just try anything.

I just took the weight of the wheel and slowly undid the bolt until it lose enough to move slightly and with the Fanatec software running it sprang to life, then I clamped it back up quick, it's ran for about 20 hours now without a problem.

 

[northernmonkey]

It was moving the shaft that fixed the missing wheel for me, it did it on the original and the bloody replacement, I was fuming so I thought I would just try anything.

I just took the weight of the wheel and slowly undid the bolt until it lose enough to move slightly and with the Fanatec software running it sprang to life, then I clamped it back up quick, it's ran for about 20 hours now without a problem.

What makes this annoying is I've spent best part of three hours researching and deleting and adding drivers as i was sure it was a driver issues due to changing over to a new PC rig.

 

[vee10]

What makes this annoying is I've spent best part of three hours researching and deleting and adding drivers as i was sure it was a driver issues due to changing over to a new PC rig.

Been there, very annoying. Not good enough really. I hope you get it going.

 

[THK84]

Thanks for pointing me to your thread. I'll give the solution a go. Fingers crossed.

Had several issues with my CSL DD

1) SQ 1.5 H-pattern mode isn't recognized. When in that mode, both my rims would show the calibration menu without being able to actually calibrate. Not possible on driver page either. Sequential mode works.

2) Very weak FFB (coming from a CSW 2.5, so should be similar.) Fixed be reinstalling the same driver.

3) All buttons, the pedals and the FFB stop, only steering still works.
> Proceeded to base being disconnected.
> Proceeded to wheel connection being lost on couple wheel rotations.
> Proceeded to not recognize the wheels anymore at all.

I do only have the metal quick releases on my Universal hub and Formula V2.5. Tight fit.