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Bram Hengeveld

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OverTake
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Game: F1 2010 - The Game by Codemasters. Click here to buy it directly from Steam
Class: Formula 1
Track:
Various Tracks (Ralf Eiden Style = random selection)
Weather:
Dry
Opens: 19:00 GMT
Ends: Do we?
Password & Rules: click here
 
Can you change the title yourself?
If so, maybe it's worth changing it 3 or 4 days after each event to say the next event, so a few days after the Melbourne race, change the title to "Malaysia 26th June" etc.
All our details will be the same and we will always be able to see the previous results.
 
Im not sure if my self changing gear problem will be fixed by this race... If I have to get a new wheel it will take a fews days to get here. I'll keep this thread updated with any news. Personaly I think its a ploy by the RB team to stop Renault from challenging them at the seasons end! Rumour has it that a tiny pink cow was seen in the vacinity of Scott's PSU just minutes before it blew...

Justin, if you still have the Thrustmaster GT Experience, then we both now how often this happens to the wheel. I am at the moment using the 4th version of the wheel, sent back 3 because of different issues, a wheel that shifts up and down by itself, broken screw of the table attachment and total technical failure and the one I am using now just suddenly unmounted from the table during the race in Abu Dhabi.

I am waiting and saving up to get a really good one, and I think you should do similar...:)
 
Hello chaps, after my introduction into Group 1 racing and seeing how fast you guys are i am trying to figure out where my loss of pace is in comparison. The races i have done so far have both been on the pad, auto gears etc, i do own a wheel but dont feel confident enough too use it on a sunday, do you guys use wheels/assists or am i looking too much into the hardware and need too start working on my pace on the game, any answers would be appreciated
 
News Flash !!....Team Renault drivers reported to be seeing.....Pink Cows !!!.....Rumor has it they were looking for there own ( Red Bull... It gives you wings ) drink....and are testing something code named......." Go-Go Juice... It gives you downforce "...When a member of Team Red Bull was told of this he responded....." Pink Cows...hahaha....hehehe ".....and asked ..What is thier goal with this testing ?...is it to see " Pigs Fly ".........
 
Its a big question that you ask Chris. I use a cheap madcatz MC2 wheel (as does Peter Hooper). I went from controller to wheel and found it much better/faster.
I generally use no assists in career mode but in a league race I will use max allowable to have a level competitive playing field.
I practice the track, then get a setup right, then do quali practice and a race rehearsal (or two).
I find that at the end of that I may have 2-3 sec on my statring pace on that track. But your question on speed encompasses all facets which are:
1) Basic Technique of Racing
2) Preparation-setup practice
3) Strategy
4) Race craft.
I have a chapter on #1 you can have!
Also use the Thursday Pro Am race. We can have some coaching sessions.

Chapter 4 Technique of racing
Part 1 Cornering
“The maximum speed you will attain on a straight depends on your exit speed from the previous bend. This can be explained in simple figures: Exiting a corner at 125mph rather than 120mph gives you a 5mph advantage down the following straight. Supposing that the speed advantage remains constant after half a mile the difference will be .6sec or around 35 yards” ”. Alain Prost.
At the core of generating speed and good lap times is cornering technique. The crucial factor is corner exit speed. We will deal with the corner in three parts.
1)Braking,
2) Apex
3) Exit.
Summary: Using all of the road that’s available, braking at the right point, steering to apex, accelerating cleanly for maximum possible corner exit speed.
Goal: To generate the maximum possible corner exit speed.
  1. Braking. You need to have established in mind a definitive braking point for every corner on the track for average conditions. Part of the practice session is to find and refine this point. There will usually be a physical marker of some type on the track that can be a reference point. It won’t always a braking distance board. It may be an overhead banner, a tree, a camera. You need to brake at the chosen spot and as wide (outside) as physically possible on the track to commence turn in. Your braking phase is complete when you are able to turn the car effectively (turn in point) to the apex. If you end up running a little wide of apex you braked a bit late, if you apexed a bit early you braked a little early.
Adjustments: Your maximum possible corner speed and braking distances required to decelerate to that speed will vary due to changing vehicle weight and grip levels. Adjustments: will then be made for fuel load, tyre type and condition and track condition. For example on your opening laps on primes and full fuel one may need to brake 15-25 metres earlier than your marker. In quali on low fuel or in the final stint on low fuel, fresh options and a rubbered- in track one might brake 10-15 metres after your marker. So a little mental arithmetic goes on after you have established a fairly precise point to adjust adding a few metres each for: “Green track”, Primes , high fuel load, cold or worn tyres, wet track and deducting a few for a rubbered-in track, options, low fuel, fresh tyres. In this way the perfect braking point will migrate metre by metre lap by lap as such factors change.
“The front tyres steer the car far more efficiently if they are turning” David Coulthard. You really need to ensure that your braking is over when you start to turn in to the apex. The transition from braking to turn-in is managed best with a smooth transition from brake to feathered throttle. The car will understeer more on no throttle than with slight throttle. Your particular setup will influence the cars readiness to turn in on a trailing brake. In essence the goal is to achieve a balanced car that will be receptive to steering input. Still braking hard and the car will understeer, too much throttle too soon and the car will oversteer.
  1. Apex. You can’t get this part right without getting the braking right. You need to hit the apex with a car that is balanced and ready to accept the earliest and maximum possible throttle. The best way to achieve this part is to look to the apex as you are finishing your braking and preparing to turn in. This action alone will help manage a good transition from braking to turn in as you will see where the apex is in relation to your trajectory and when its becoming “hit-able”. In looking to the apex you will instinctively manage the release of brake and application of throttle. IE if you are turning in very well then you can afford more or earlier throttle (and more speed which will push you a little wider. If you are struggling to reach the apex (wide) then you are forced to delay the timing or extent of throttle application. NB setup is critical to turn- in. The better you have managed the braking and turn in phase the earlier and harder you can input throttle. This is where the axiom of “slow in fast out” comes from. The late braking manoeuvre only has the potential to influence your speed from that point to that very same corner!# Corner exit speed will influence your speed from that corner until the next corner! Quite a bit more influence really. #The exception is overtaking where the need for track position superceeds the need for speed on that one lap.
On choosing your line and apex: When having to compromise between the perfect apex for one corner or another in sequence of bends the golden rule is “priority to the faster element”. More is to be lost or gained through the faster section. This applies to a sequence of turns leading to a fast straight, the goal must be to optimise the exit onto the straight and work back from there making necessary compromises in the slower parts to achieve this.
As a rule of thumb when practising your line for any particular corner, start with a late apex and gradually move it back a few feet at a time until you find your exit speed is compromised adjust from there. INSERT DIAGRAM FOR THIS.
Separate ICON for In Game Notes In game remember that some rumble strips are deadly (eg Marina Bay) and some look worse than they are (eg turn 7 and 8 Catalunya). On more user friendly rumble strips much time is to be gained by hitting the apex with your outside wheels IE whole car inside the apex except outside wheels.
“To operate at maximum efficiency, a driver should try to use all the space that’s available to him: the full width of the road- but also the rumble strip. So you have to make the circuit as wide as possible and sometimes a little wider”. Alain Prost.
  1. Exit. The simplest and least cerebral part where you benefit from your good work in braking and apex phase. At this point you want to get the power down as fast as possible without breaking traction. The car will accelerate faster with minimum steering lock so once past apex allow the car to drift as wide as possible under throttle. If you leave track remaining outside you unused, it means you could have carried more speed in corner or applied throttle earlier or harder or used less steering input on exit. All of these actions will net more speed. Exiting slow corners one must be mindful of avoiding wheelspin. This is because of the extra acceleration available in lower gears and the reduction in aero downforce at lower speeds. So in faster corners you can apply throttle more aggressively.The co-efficient of adhesion is higher than that of friction so wheelspin costs time. When dealing with throttle application a good mental image is that of a piece of string tied to the bottom of the steering wheel and your big toe. As you wind off lock your big toe is freed to apply more throttle. Insert picture..............
Hows that for starters??
David
 
But in this race i have careful with that Darren! I start in standard until lap 5, made 4 laps in fast. Than i put more 10 laps in standard, and again 5 laps fast. At lap 25 i run out of fuel, is not to sun? The race had 29 laps!! And with manual the consume is higher? And the setup i use, in passage of gears dont have influence in consume, the binary of the engine, more longer or shorter?
 
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