Cars (DATA REPLACEMENT) Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R V-spec Improved Physics by Arch

[Kyuubeey]

Kyuubeey updated R34 GT-R V-spec Scratchmade Improved Physics by Arch with a new update entry:

Geo, tires, misc

27.09.2019 Version 2.1

- Changed rear geometry slightly
- Changed front rebound damper stroke 70mm -> 60mm
- Changed front bumpstop thickness 60mm -> 50mm
- Updated colliders from 4x to 2x
- Adjusted KERS and EDL value for new axlespeed that I forgot
- Default SM tire pressure to 24, closer to ideal
- Tire changes
- Accounted CoG for sprung mass calc
- Changed throttle graph
- Adjusted FFB

Read the rest of this update entry...

 

[acespizee]

Why is this car so tail happy ?

 

[Kyuubeey]

Why is this car so tail happy ?

Open diff on coast, quite aggressive locking on power, AWD system which produces yaw instead of push, adequate power, inadequate tires, high CoG and not enough weight over the rears either, ARBs which are unusually not super understeery and slightly more towards neutral, purposely oversteery spring bias (Something like 1.5hz front and 1.8 - 1.9hz rear) + it rides the rear bumpstops on throttle, AWS system which produces yaw on turn-in, ABS system which doesn't slide the outside front aggressively on trailbraking etc.

Here's a few nice videos to take a look at.

EDIT: Oh, and the R33 isn't a boat like everyone says. Suspension setup is almost identical to the R34, as well. So it drives more or less similarly.

 

[acespizee]

Thanks man, any tips on getting the graphics offset right for the Nismo Skyline GT-R R-tune (R34) '99 ? Its currently on -0.03,-0.53,-0.45 but needs to be brought a little forwards and is sitting a little too low...

 

[Kyuubeey]

Thanks man, any tips on getting the graphics offset right for the Nismo Skyline GT-R R-tune (R34) '99 ? Its currently on -0.03,-0.53,-0.45 but needs to be brought a little forwards and is sitting a little too low...

"Proper" way how I do it without wasting all day:

Enable dev apps
Load into Stereo's Test Pad track
1l fuel
Open Telemetry app
Find the suspension travel category
Drive
Tap the gas, then wait for it to settle
Open suspensions.ini
Put in the mm values from the Telemetry app into rod_length, as meters, so 150 -> 0.150

Your car's now at the design height, or roughly the height of a normal R33 or R34. Lower rod_length by 0.010 to get V-spec height, as most R34 were V-specs.

Now find some good, accurate R34 V-spec pictures, like in those Best Motoring videos, and line up the car to those. Now lower it appropriately and check how well it lines up to the IRL tuned car.

 

[aphidgod]

That'll set things at design height assuming your suspension measurements were taken with the geometry at static ride height. (You may not always find that is the case - for example, I designed the WRX based on measurements taken at full droop on a lift, because I did them myself and that was the only way I could get under the car to measure.)

 

[Kyuubeey]

That'll set things at design height assuming your suspension measurements were taken with the geometry at static ride height. (You may not always find that is the case - for example, I designed the WRX based on measurements taken at full droop on a lift, because I did them myself and that was the only way I could get under the car to measure.)

Yeah, it'll only put it wherever your suspensions.ini design height is. Fortunately for me, even my laserscanned examples are from more or less design height +- a few mm at most.

 

[acespizee]

Major thanks man...

 

[Kyuubeey]

Kyuubeey updated R34 GT-R V-spec Scratchmade Improved Physics by Arch with a new update entry:

Dampers, rollbars, motion ratio, ATTESA

13.10.2019 Version 2.2

- Calculated rollbars
- Changed rear MR based on new data
- Changed rollbar setup design for tuned cars
- Changed ATTESA lock curve
- Adjustment for damper oversight
- Removed TA; redundant and unsupported

Read the rest of this update entry...

 

[Joshua Bayada]

Kyuubeey submitted a new resource:

R34 GT-R V-spec Scratchmade Improved Physics by Arch - Skyline GT-R as it was originally intended.



Read more about this resource...

How do I install the shaders, I got no clue sorry

 

[Joshua Bayada]

I have installed everything and can't get the mod to work can someone please provide me the right links to mods and steps please it is so confusing to find the correct ones and game just crashes when loading a track with this car

 

[Kyuubeey]

I have installed everything and can't get the mod to work can someone please provide me the right links to mods and steps please it is so confusing to find the correct ones and game just crashes when loading a track with this car

Step 1: Search the net first before you ask a mod author how to install something else
Step 2: Install CSP
Step 3: Follow the install instructions of the car 1:1

Congrats, you now have the car installed. Very likely you're forgetting to replace sound.

 

[Joshua Bayada]

Step 1: Search the net first before you ask a mod author how to install something else
Step 2: Install CSP
Step 3: Follow the install instructions of the car 1:1

Congrats, you now have the car installed. Very likely you're forgetting to replace sound.

I did search online but still got stuck that's why I asked here, sorry about that.
I have installed the csp patch and replaced the sound but still doesn't work that's why i'm stuck and asking because I followed the steps and can't get it working, it just crashes no matter which track I load

 

[Joshua Bayada]

Error is Game Crashed Driver Model is probably missing, than i go to analyze the car to try and resolve a couple of errors, one error won't fix and it's the tyres use an old tyre model that won't repair itself

 

[Kyuubeey]

Not much I can say apart from A: CSP is outdated maybe or B: You simply are installing it wrong.

The tires is just from the ext. phys, ignore it.

 

[Kyuubeey]

Kyuubeey updated R34 GT-R V-spec Scratchmade Improved Physics by Arch with a new update entry:

Tires, aero, suspension

31.12.2019 Version 2.3

- General tire changes
- Added Street 2000's tire
- Added load curves to tires
- Recalculated aero
- Added aero yaw drag fin
- Found spring angles, droplink angles, more accurate sta-bar wall thickness etc.
- Minor suspension tweaks
- New brakes from data thanks to @baker7498
- Changed ATTESA lockup curve

Read the rest of this update entry...

 

[Kyuubeey]

Kyuubeey updated R34 GT-R V-spec Scratchmade Improved Physics by Arch with a new update entry:

Front sta-bar

02.01.2020 Version 2.4

- Derived front sta-bar wall thickness, motion ratio thanks to @baker7498

Read the rest of this update entry...

 

[Kyuubeey]

Kyuubeey updated R34 GT-R V-spec Scratchmade Improved Physics by Arch with a new update entry:

Suspension, electronics, inertia, tires

07.05.2020 Version 2.5

- Improved rear suspension geometry accuracy
- ARB changes, thanks again to @Stereo, @baker7498
- Changed ATTESA curves
- Changed HICAS logic; old implementation was not working as intended
- Added brake proportioning valve effect via EBB, thanks to @baker7498
- Weakened lock of V-spec LSD
- Inertia changes
- Tire tweaks
- Minor suspension corrections

Read the rest of this update entry...

 

[ltcars]

Why does the car have ERS?

 

[Kyuubeey]

Why does the car have ERS?

The real V-spec R33 and R34 GT-R have an Active-LSD system. It's a viscous diff with electronic control to lock the rear based on some control inputs. You can open the car to check what they are.

We can't really do something like that in AC for AWD2, because rear lock control doesn't work directly with AWD2, so I figured out a method to do it otherwise.

The "normal" component of the (quite weakly locking IRL) viscous diff is made via a normal mechanical diff, then a remainder of the potential locking is made via an ERS + brakesteer system, with precisely calculated curves so that in hopefully all situations, there is no power going away, no power coming from nowhere, it is simply moving the effective locking of the axle around.

It's calibrated to the AWD2 curves, so it will adjust itself for different rear axle torque amounts, and it's calibrated L/R so there should only be power moved around; not added or taken away.

I'm surprised that while it can't fully work like it should IRL due to not being a "real" diff, in normal driving situations it really does provide the handling result that I expect, so even if it's a PITA, I kept it in.

PS: The Super Taikyu R34 hooked the HICAS controls into the A-LSD and they got a fully active locking differential which responded to even more inputs! This is largely a dumb system.