Automobilista - How to Set Your Car Up!

Hi guys,

Chriss, nice work, keep it up, thank you.
Heitor, thank you, I've been running with too soft bars.

Now... Differentials.

You're doing it all wrong! :D

If one mashes up the "Loud Pedal" coming out of a tight corner, what ever the diff ramp (lock setting), if the rears light up... be prepare to go full opposite lock... wrong driving technique or the style of our sport for the idiots.

"By limiting the slippage between the rear wheels, the differential can have a profound impact on the car's handling. The rule of thumb is: the more the diff limits slippage, the more the car will tend to go straight or understeer -- --up to a point. On the power side, if enough torque is applied to spin both wheels, the car will snap into oversteer."
(http://www.intothered.dk/simracing/differential.html)

That mean, on a long fast sweeper, at 100% lock, the inside rear want to rotate at the same speed the outside one is. The rear axle wants the car to go straight. 100% lock, the car will not turn. At 0% lock, it will turn all we want but it wont accelerate out of anywhere (smoke show?). Just one more balancing act!

Setting lock percentage by how the rear end pops out is bad. Wrong driving style. IRL, bye bye rear tyres in just a few laps.
Always set your diff while driving with your head... not sliding, all wheels well planted.

To finish, there are a lot of very technical books out there but, for many readers, going through those can be quite harsh.
Drive to Win - Carroll Smith
Tune to Win - Carroll Smith
How To Make Your Car Handle - Fred Puhn
Going Faster - Carl Lopez

Many years ago, I learned everything from a little book that was a breeze to read: Four Wheel Drift by Steve Smith. The guide that came with Grand Prix Legend. The people who did not go through it found GPL undrivable. The racers who did... learned to drive.

Exert: "Alison Hine uses the tire temps to help adjust the differential. Taking a reading coming off the Parabolica where you’re most likely to get wheelspin, she looks at the temp of the inside (RR) tire. If it’s higher than the outside tire temp, which would normally be the hotter of the two, she knows she’s spinning the inside tire, and adds a clutch or two until the temp drops. She knows she’s gone too far when both tires break loose together, sending the car into snap oversteer. Then she removes one clutch the inside tire should now begin to spin just before the outside tire breaks loose."

*** EDITED ***
In Grand Prix Legend:
--- High ramp angles equal Low locking %
--- high clutch # roughly equal to high preload %

---Augmenting preload "mainly" sets the minimum level of locking so you don't get an open diff during the transition between power and coast.
--- Adding clutches Modifies how fast that transition, that locking happens.

Gilles

*** Open mouth - insert foot - echo Internationally ***
 
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Hey Chris,

I'm having a though time dialing in some stability at Ibara with the Brazilian Stockcars, I'm testing different static weight distribution values and everywhere, from multiple sources, the indications are:

RacerAlex Advanced Formula 1 Setup Guide
V 1.1 8.21.02, page 16
"Because of this, weight distribution is a sublimely difficult thing to grasp. The weight typically is
adding traction to the end of the car that you shift it towards. This means that weight shifted towards the
rear will put less weight on the front end resulting in increasing understeer. Shift it forward, and less
weight is distributed to the rear under acceleration."

rFactor 2 Advanced Car Set Up Guide by David O'Reilly v0.9, page 8
Weight balance.
Weight balance plays an major role in the car balance. Before going into detail the two main possibilities are:
- Put weight to the front = increases over-steer
- Put weight to the rear = increases under-steer.
You might expect the opposite to happen, because of the law of inertia from physics. Saying: a weight sitting in the front makes the front end lazy – so when you try to turn it around the weight still wants to go forward while you want to go the right for example. That would be the effect of under-steer. But for a Formula-car another variable has much greater impact : down-force. Down-force is the gross-weight that pushes the car on the ground. The more down-force you have, the more “grip” a tyre creates. So with the weight balance more to the front. You put more of the forces pointing to the tarmac on the front wheels. And that’s the reason why they have a better turning and more grip than the rear axis. The rear axis is then more likely to slide (because of the missing down-force). Another effect is that you place the “centre of gravity” to the front. The longer the distance to the centre of gravity of your car the less reactive it is on new inputs. Saying the shorter/longer the distance from a front/rear axis to the centre of gravity of the car, the more/less grippy it is and the better/worse it follows your steering inputs.

Advanced Setup Matrix
ftp://jatekok.hu/hf1l/files/SetupMatrix.pdf
section 10 Weight Distribution
10.1 Adjust to front Increase oversteer
10.2 Adjust to rear Increase understeer

Car Setup for Dummies
http://www.simracingmania.net/forum/index.php?threads/car-setup-for-dummies.376/
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
More To Front = increase oversteer
More To Rear = increase understeer

In this guide: http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/automobilista-how-to-set-your-car-up.132909/#post-2419186
it shows:
...the general thought is that increasing the rearward bias will result in a car that rotates more easily in mid-corner situations and generally has greater traction due to a larger amount of weight being placed over the rear wheels.
A more forward bias will result in less oversteer and generally poorer traction, but again, this all depends on the engine placement and chassis design.

It ain't jiving!
 
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Hey Chris,

I'm having a though time dialing in some stability at Ibara with the Brazilian Stockcars, I'm testing different static weight distribution values and everywhere, from multiple sources, the indications are:

RacerAlex Advanced Formula 1 Setup Guide
V 1.1 8.21.02, page 16
"Because of this, weight distribution is a sublimely difficult thing to grasp. The weight typically is
adding traction to the end of the car that you shift it towards. This means that weight shifted towards the
rear will put less weight on the front end resulting in increasing understeer. Shift it forward, and less
weight is distributed to the rear under acceleration."

rFactor 2 Advanced Car Set Up Guide by David O'Reilly v0.9, page 8
Weight balance.
Weight balance plays an major role in the car balance. Before going into detail the two main possibilities are:
- Put weight to the front = increases over-steer
- Put weight to the rear = increases under-steer.
You might expect the opposite to happen, because of the law of inertia from physics. Saying: a weight sitting in the front makes the front end lazy – so when you try to turn it around the weight still wants to go forward while you want to go the right for example. That would be the effect of under-steer. But for a Formula-car another variable has much greater impact : down-force. Down-force is the gross-weight that pushes the car on the ground. The more down-force you have, the more “grip” a tyre creates. So with the weight balance more to the front. You put more of the forces pointing to the tarmac on the front wheels. And that’s the reason why they have a better turning and more grip than the rear axis. The rear axis is then more likely to slide (because of the missing down-force). Another effect is that you place the “centre of gravity” to the front. The longer the distance to the centre of gravity of your car the less reactive it is on new inputs. Saying the shorter/longer the distance from a front/rear axis to the centre of gravity of the car, the more/less grippy it is and the better/worse it follows your steering inputs.

Advanced Setup Matrix
ftp://jatekok.hu/hf1l/files/SetupMatrix.pdf
section 10 Weight Distribution
10.1 Adjust to front Increase oversteer
10.2 Adjust to rear Increase understeer

Car Setup for Dummies
http://www.simracingmania.net/forum/index.php?threads/car-setup-for-dummies.376/
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
More To Front = increase oversteer
More To Rear = increase understeer

In this guide: http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/automobilista-how-to-set-your-car-up.132909/#post-2419186
it shows:
...the general thought is that increasing the rearward bias will result in a car that rotates more easily in mid-corner situations and generally has greater traction due to a larger amount of weight being placed over the rear wheels.
A more forward bias will result in less oversteer and generally poorer traction, but again, this all depends on the engine placement and chassis design.

It ain't jiving!
The setup guides you quoted are wrong. It's really simple:

While turning:
weight to the front = more grip at the rear (understeer)
weight to the rear = more grip at the front (oversteer)

While braking and accelerating in a straight line:
weight to the front = more grip at the front
weight to the rear = more grip at the rear
 
It's really simple:

While turning:
weight to the front = more grip at the rear (understeer)
weight to the rear = more grip at the front (oversteer)

While braking and accelerating in a straight line:
weight to the front = more grip at the front
weight to the rear = more grip at the rear

I can only speak for myself, but I fail to comprehend why turning would invert which end of the car experiences more grip from increased weight distribution.
 
I can only speak for myself, but I fail to comprehend why turning would invert which end of the car experiences more grip from increased weight distribution.
You are correct. Increasing the weight on one end of the car always increases the grip on that end of the car. Nevertheless, my statements are correct as well. I will try to give a short explanation as to why that is.

Let's say we move some weight to the front of the car. This results in additional vertical load on the front tyres, which gives them additional grip, but at the same time the front tyres now have to work harder to make the car turn because the front of the car is now heavier. As it turns out the additional work the front tyres have to do is larger than the additional grip provided by the increase in vertical load. This is mostly due to tyre load sensitivity and downforce. At the rear of the car the situation is reversed. The result is a car that tends more towards understeer.
 
I can only speak for myself, but I fail to comprehend why turning would invert which end of the car experiences more grip from increased weight distribution.
I guess inertia. When turning, you're trying to get all the weight at the front to stop going forward but to change direction. The more weight at the front, the more the front will want to keep going straight instead of turning therefore understeer. There more weight on the rear means the opposite: the front has no problem changing direction while the rear wants to keep going straight rather than change direction which means oversteer.

However, a lot of times drivers, especially in the rfactor physics engine, will use tons of front weight bias. It seems to really be able to make the car's front-end change direction and point into the corner more.

I tend to use quite different car setup philosophies depending on which racing sim-engine I'm driving (eg. rFactor/AMS, iRacing, Live For Speed, Netkar Pro, Assetto Corsa, etc.). In the ISI/rFactor physics engine, I usually set weight distribution quite far forward while also generally using much more rearwards brake-bias than generally used in real-life and other sims. Same thing with springs, dampers (IE. shock absorbers), anti-roll bars, wings, differentials, camber, toe, etc. - a different philosophy depending on which sims' physics engine I'm driving.

Here's and idea:
  1. Set the weight-distribution (WD) to halfway of the car's adjustment range. Eg. if the car's WD can be adjusted from a max of 55% front (F) and a min of 49% F, then set the WD to exactly half way which, in this example, would be 52% F
  2. Do at least 5 or 10 laps - more if you're not able to drive fairly hard and consistent
  3. Pit, change WD to max-front (55% in this example), do 5 hard but consistent laps in a row
  4. Pit, change WD to max-rear (49% in this example), do 5 hard but consistent laps in a row

That should give you a good idea about how the driving dynamics change between the two setup extremes (max-front VS max-rear WD).
 
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Hi guys,

Chriss, nice work, keep it up, thank you.
Heitor, thank you, I've been running with too soft bars.

Now... Differentials.

You're doing it all wrong! :D

If one mashes up the "Loud Pedal" coming out of a tight corner, what ever the diff ramp (lock setting), if the rears light up... be prepare to go full opposite lock... wrong driving technique or the style of our sport for the idiots.

"By limiting the slippage between the rear wheels, the differential can have a profound impact on the car's handling. The rule of thumb is: the more the diff limits slippage, the more the car will tend to go straight or understeer -- --up to a point. On the power side, if enough torque is applied to spin both wheels, the car will snap into oversteer."
(http://www.intothered.dk/simracing/differential.html)

That mean, on a long fast sweeper, at 100% lock, the inside rear want to rotate at the same speed the outside one is. The rear axle wants the car to go straight. 100% lock, the car will not turn. At 0% lock, it will turn all we want but it wont accelerate out of anywhere (smoke show?). Just one more balancing act!

Setting lock percentage by how the rear end pops out is bad. Wrong driving style. IRL, bye bye rear tyres in just a few laps.
Always set your diff while driving with your head... not sliding, all wheels well planted.

To finish, there are a lot of very technical books out there but, for many readers, going through those can be quite harsh.
Drive to Win - Carroll Smith
Tune to Win - Carroll Smith
How To Make Your Car Handle - Fred Puhn
Going Faster - Carl Lopez

Many years ago, I learned everything from a little book that was a breeze to read: Four Wheel Drift by Steve Smith. The guide that came with Grand Prix Legend. The people who did not go through it found GPL undrivable. The racers who did... learned to drive.

Exert: "Alison Hine uses the tire temps to help adjust the differential. Taking a reading coming off the Parabolica where you’re most likely to get wheelspin, she looks at the temp of the inside (RR) tire. If it’s higher than the outside tire temp, which would normally be the hotter of the two, she knows she’s spinning the inside tire, and adds a clutch or two until the temp drops. She knows she’s gone too far when both tires break loose together, sending the car into snap oversteer. Then she removes one clutch the inside tire should now begin to spin just before the outside tire breaks loose."

*** EDITED ***
In Grand Prix Legend:
--- High ramp angles equal Low locking %
--- high clutch # roughly equal to high preload %

---Augmenting preload "mainly" sets the minimum level of locking so you don't get an open diff during the transition between power and coast.
--- Adding clutches Modifies how fast that transition, that locking happens.

Gilles

*** Open mouth - insert foot - echo Internationally ***
Wow! So much misinformation in one post.:(

For everyone who wants to learn about differentials, you should read through this thread. Jussi is very knowledgable and has answered a lot of questions. He has also created a useful tool that helps explain how preload works.
 
Differential is much more simplified for me in rFactor/ISI engine. For rear-wheel drive cars, it's basically (generally speaking), the higher # power lock, the earlier/easier you will spin the wheels on power but the more gradual/prograssive the slide will start. The less power lock, the later / more difficult it will be to spin the wheels but when they do spin, it will be more snappy/sudden. This is just a general rule of thumb I go by which seems to work the majority of the time with RWD cars for me.

Coast lock is even more simple. The lower the coast lock, the more pointy and oversteery the car can become off throttle.

Preload is the only one that I can never figure out (even though I know what it does) even after 15+ years of racing on the ISI engine. I'm terrible at figuring out preload.

I also learned that on front wheel drive cars - for rFactor 1 that is (can't remember RF2) - basically just set every car to either 90% power or 100% power (I can't remember which one). Just set it and forget it. Anything less just adds more and more understeer on power corner exit if I remember correctly.

In games with more advanced differential physics (eg. Live For Speed, Project Cars 2, iRacing, etc.), I'm much more lost. You have all sorts of different differential models/styles like open diffs, spools, lockers, and lsds. Some have the ability to:
- add more/less clutch plates
- add more/less friction plates
- different types of clutch plates
- different types of friction plates
- adjust preload spring (I guess equivalent to RF/ISI preload setting)
- adjust ramp angles (I'm pretty sure this is basically equivalent to RF/ISI engine power and coast)
- adjust ramp ratios
 
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Differential is much more simplified for me in rFactor/ISI engine. For rear-wheel drive cars, it's basically (generally speaking), the higher # power lock, the earlier/easier you will spin the wheels on power but the more gradual/prograssive the slide will start. The less power lock, the later / more difficult it will be to spin the wheels but when they do spin, it will be more snappy/sudden. This is just a general rule of thumb I go by which seems to work the majority of the time with RWD cars for me.

Coast lock is even more simple. The lower the coast lock, the more pointy and oversteery the car can become off throttle.
Yes, that's how it works. I set the power lock just high enough that I can accelerate out of corners with very little steering input and without having to countersteer. For touring cars and GT cars that approach usually leads to values between 20 and 40%. F1 cars and similar are usually between 5 and 10%. Coast lock depends a lot more on the car and the other setup parameters. I use everything between 0 and 100%.

Preload is the only one that I can never figure out (even though I know what it does) even after 15+ years of racing on the ISI engine. I'm terrible at figuring out preload.
I typically keep it very close to the minimum. Higher values just make the car understeer mid-corner and oversteer on exit. Sometimes I use very high values to cure oversteer on the brakes that can't be fixed even with coast lock at 100%. Of course this also leads to a very oversteery car on exit.

In games with more advanced differential physics (eg. Live For Speed, Project Cars 2, iRacing, etc.), I'm much more lost. You have all sorts of different differential models/styles like open diffs, spools, lockers, and lsds. Some have the ability to:
- add more/less clutch plates
- add more/less friction plates
- different types of clutch plates
- different types of friction plates
- adjust preload spring (I guess equivalent to RF/ISI preload setting)
- adjust ramp angles (I'm pretty sure this is basically equivalent to RF/ISI engine power and coast)
- adjust ramp ratios
It's still essentially the same thing and it's generally possible to convert these parameters into percentages of lock. You should check out the differential calculator in the thread I linked to before.
 
Hey Tim,

For the Weight Distribution, I wasn't getting a handle on it, your explanation is greatly appreciated and I will test it soon. Thank you. I liked it when I read
The setup guides you quoted are wrong.
Which mean this guide here is also wrong. Again, thanks Dude.

But for my Differential post, please, do tell me where it's wrong as again, I did not invent anything, I'm relating what I'm reading. The link you supplied shows the same...
Wow! So much misinformation in one post.
 
But for my Differential post, please, do tell me where it's wrong as again, I did not invent anything, I'm relating what I'm reading. The link you supplied shows the same...
My link doesn't show that at all. Please read carefully. I will now go through your post and point out everything that's wrong with it.
If one mashes up the "Loud Pedal" coming out of a tight corner, what ever the diff ramp (lock setting), if the rears light up... be prepare to go full opposite lock... wrong driving technique or the style of our sport for the idiots.
The oversteer you'll get can be very different depending on your differential settings. It's not all the same just because your rear tyres are spinning.
"By limiting the slippage between the rear wheels, the differential can have a profound impact on the car's handling. The rule of thumb is: the more the diff limits slippage, the more the car will tend to go straight or understeer -- --up to a point. On the power side, if enough torque is applied to spin both wheels, the car will snap into oversteer."
(http://www.intothered.dk/simracing/differential.html)

That mean, on a long fast sweeper, at 100% lock, the inside rear want to rotate at the same speed the outside one is. The rear axle wants the car to go straight. 100% lock, the car will not turn. At 0% lock, it will turn all we want but it wont accelerate out of anywhere (smoke show?). Just one more balancing act!
As mentioned before, a locked differential will give you more rotation under power unless you are driving way under the limit. The open differential is the one that wants to make the car go straight. If the car snaps, it's usually because the driver was applying too much steering lock in a failed attempt to reduce understeer. A car should never snap!
Setting lock percentage by how the rear end pops out is bad. Wrong driving style. IRL, bye bye rear tyres in just a few laps.
Always set your diff while driving with your head... not sliding, all wheels well planted.
Actually, that's exactly how I always set up my car. Maybe I'm the one doing it wrong? And driving with all wheels planted doesn't work on a race track. Not when your goal is to go fast anyway. You absolutely need to slide at least a little bit to achieve fast lap times.
Many years ago, I learned everything from a little book that was a breeze to read: Four Wheel Drift by Steve Smith. The guide that came with Grand Prix Legend. The people who did not go through it found GPL undrivable. The racers who did... learned to drive.

Exert: "Alison Hine uses the tire temps to help adjust the differential. Taking a reading coming off the Parabolica where you’re most likely to get wheelspin, she looks at the temp of the inside (RR) tire. If it’s higher than the outside tire temp, which would normally be the hotter of the two, she knows she’s spinning the inside tire, and adds a clutch or two until the temp drops. She knows she’s gone too far when both tires break loose together, sending the car into snap oversteer. Then she removes one clutch the inside tire should now begin to spin just before the outside tire breaks loose."
Tyre temperatures are a terrible way to adjust the differential. You should be able to feel how the car responds to throttle input on corner exits and make appropriate changes. In my opinion it's on of the easiest things to feel. Monza is a bad example anyway because you won't get wheelspin in Parabolica on the modern version of Monza. The exit of the first chicane is where you are most likely to get wheelspin.
 
So Alison Hine doesn't know how to set up a car... hope she never reads this...

I always say: Setups are like shorts, you can't really lend or borrow any.
You have your own way of setting up your car, I have my own and others people have theirs.
Spinning tire transfers energy into heat... not forward momentum... but then again, a tire works best just inside of its maximum slip angle.

Thank you for answering Tim.
 
Spinning tire transfers energy into heat... not forward momentum... but then again, a tire works best just inside of its maximum slip angle.
You just contradicted yourself :)
It does equate into forward momentum. Extracting maximum grip from a tyre involves spinning them (ie. slip) whether it's acceleration, braking, or turning as you rightly pointed out :)
Of course that involves some heat too, for sure.

I agree, every one has their preference with setup but often times using other people's is a good starting point especially for people that are not that serious and just want to go have some fun. However, it also depends on the driver. If a driver is not that experienced or skilled, then they may be doing vastly different things from lap to lap, even corner to corner so a new setup may help them on one lap but a few laps later they drive the car very differently (whether they notice or not) and then complain about a bad setup again.

I think the best thing to do is to drive without touching the setup, even if it's one not suited to a driver or track, and learn how to bring a car up to the limits, slide the car, play with the limits and play with driving the car over the limits, manipulate it's handling through steering/throttle/brake inputs, etc. Then, when someone is comfortable doing that regardless of setup, then they can start tuning the setup to really get the car how they like so that they can gain more laptime, confidence, consistency, etc.
 
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I was going through my books the other day and stumbled upon a great resource about differentials. The book is called The Science of Vehicle Dynamics by Massimo Guiggiani. Make sure you get the second edition as it contains a much more in-depth discussion of differentials than the first one.

Not only does the book explain the governing equations of all differentials, it also explains why one and the same power lock setting can lead to opposite responses of the car (oversteer and understeer) depending on your inputs (and other factors). This often seems paradoxical, but it can be explainded by considering the interaction between the differential and the tyres. The book does a great job at explaining the underlying physics of this phenomenon. It's easy to follow and definitely worth a read.

He has also released a free interactive tool. You can get it here.
 
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I was going through my books the other day and stumbled upon a great resource about differentials. The book is called The Science of Vehicle Dynamics by Massimo Guiggiani. Make sure you get the second edition as it contains a much more in-depth discussion of differentials than the first one.

Not only does the book explain the governing equations of all differentials, it also explains why one and the same power lock setting can lead to opposite responses of the car (oversteer and understeer) depending on your inputs (and other factors). This often seems paradoxical, but it can be explainded by considering the interaction between the differential and the tyres. The book does a great job at explaining the underlying physics of this phenomenon. It's easy to follow and definitely worth a read.

He has also released a free interactive tool. You can get it here.
I am glad you like my book. Thank you for your interest on the behavior of differentials.
 

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