Wheel settings after update

Peter

who cares
All the old control sets are terminated with the update.

The advised settings are 900° and 30 wheel lock, but we tested and used default wheel driver settings without damper and spring.

For example Thrustmaster T500 60%/100%/100%/0%/0% and TX 75%/100%/100%/0%/0%.

Logitech uses 270° default, so the wheel lock is set to 10 in game.
Feel free to change that to 900°/30.

All wheels that have 900° should use this from now on as a default setting.

The target for the team is to have an automatic rotation/lock for all wheels/cars in the future.
 
I feel like I keep saying this but I've had the same issues as some of you guys since having R3E, but have managed to dial R3E to my liking and dial myself into it, I have no problems with Audio now I have a decent mix, Swaying is a thing of the past, I don't have the excessive centring force, unless I get it very wrong in which case I would expect a 1200kg car to give me something to deal with. If anything that has taught me to be smoother and control the weight more effectively, which will help me to be more consistent and in the end faster (I hope). Maybe the FFB could be a little more peaky, dynamic, but I'm cool with it atm. Obviously try my settings if you wish, they are in this thread.

I drove AC yesterday Z4 GT3 @ IMOLA, I was quicker in that game than I was before, probably just because I'm awesome ;) urrrmmm no! but seriously IMHO I don't think the void is as big as some say??
 
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The swaying isn't always a result of the centring force, to me it's more a lack of feel around the centre, more like a slight deadzone so I find it hard to know when the wheels are pointing dead straight. This gives the vague feel down the straights.

Also I don't get enough feel from the road surface. GSC and rF2 are constantly giving me information, R3E feels more numb.
 
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Feeling should go lighter in the center, cause there are less forces but I wish I could help a little more. All I know is that something in my settings has fixed it. It was terrible in the Ruf.

Maybe it's this ? I tend to always (right or wrong) as my own default, change my toe on the rear to a positive 0.25-30 (increased straight line stability) and soften the rear a couple of clicks, springs and dampers and roll bar. All in an effort to help reduce oversteer, and stabilise my rear!! :D I can always bring it back if needs be.
 
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Sorry you feel that way but your other thread was ANOTHER clone of threads and comments you already posted all over the forum. To me that's spamming. Plus there was no real discussion going on aside your "5 people don't know of what a good ffb is" comment.
Good luck with your gaming!
 
I finally had a chance to try a few of the suggested settings for addressing the floatiness and centering issues. Specifically, I played around with the amount of cockpit camera movement, the audio settings to try to make the tire scrubbing more audible, and FFB settings to try to reduce the aggressive (over)centering.

I think they all helped a little, but it gets tough after a while to know how much it's the settings making a difference, just getting used to it, or placebo. I wouldn't say any of them resolved it fully enough to be certain it made a meaningful difference. I was able to get the scrubbing loud enough to hear more frequently, but the caveats are that (1) it is still often hard to hear, (2) some cars are harder to hear it on than others, and (3) doing so means that the engine is less audible, more so on some cars than others. So, I think it is an improvement, but not ideal.

I'm not sure where I stand on the cockpit camera movement. On the one hand, more movement does seem to reduce the floatyness a little, but it creates its own distractions as it doesn't seem like natural head movement. I'll have to play with that some more.

As for FFB, I have found several types of tweaks that tame the centering, but all are essentially means of blunting the FFB altogether. First, you can turn the various settings down so that the centering is weak enough that it isn't so disruptive and less likely to overshoot the mark and lead to oscillation. But, I find the level required for this to be quite weak and too muted. Second, you can crank things up, essentially clipping your wheel, which by necessity reduces the extent to which spikes such as aggressive centering are felt. But this obviously makes the FFB much less informative, and can have a host of other drawbacks (FFB as an on/off sensation rather than a matter of degree, tiring, etc.). I think this is essentially what some of the suggested extreme vertical load and/or lateral load settings (e.g., 400%)accomplish.

A third approach that I've settled on for now is using a little bit of Speed Sensitivity Steering. I know that you generally want to avoid that when using a wheel, but it seems to help here. It essentially dulls the FFB a little bit at high speeds, which helps tame the centering. Not ideal, as it dulls everything, but it seems like a decent compromise for now. I haven't settle on exact settings, but for now have it at 20%, kicking in at 30, and maxing out at 250. So, it is a relatively subtle effect, and I can still feel the aggressive centering but it is less disruptive and less likely to overshoot the mark.

I am encouraged by seeing that S3 plans to add some additional FFB parameters, including centering, in a future update. Hopefully that will provide a more optimal solution, but this seems adequate until then.
 
A random thought, but I wonder if differences in how people grip the wheel has any bearing on the degree to which they notice or are bothered by the centering (and the degree to which that centering overshoots the mark and turns into oscillation).

I generally prefer to drive with a fairly light grip. However, in R3e I find I have to use a firmer grip than usual due to the centering forces (or otherwise dial down the FFB overall, as described above). With a firmer grip, those issues are less problematic. The downside to me is that I think it mutes a lot of subtle information from the wheel, slows my reactions, and leads to more hand/arm/shoulder fatigue and/or soreness after longer driving sessions.

Just a thought -- could that at least partly account for why some of us find the centering so bothersome and others do not?
 
Hello everyone.
I fight for some time with the settings T500RS and the effect is not satisfactory, it can someone like it, or ask for access your profile with T500rs.
Regards.
 

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