Wheel settings after update

[Peter]

All the old control sets are terminated with the update.

The advised settings are 900° and 30 wheel lock, but we tested and used default wheel driver settings without damper and spring.

For example Thrustmaster T500 60%/100%/100%/0%/0% and TX 75%/100%/100%/0%/0%.

Logitech uses 270° default, so the wheel lock is set to 10 in game.
Feel free to change that to 900°/30.

All wheels that have 900° should use this from now on as a default setting.

The target for the team is to have an automatic rotation/lock for all wheels/cars in the future.

 

[Satoru Ohno]

im going to disagree with you there , there has been some bd ffb in the past and changes have been made , but for most wheels it has improved if people set there profilers properly , no damper, no spring etc

if you have an issue with your wheel can you give some details ? wheel etc ...

Andi

Just a wait. First, to avoid unnecessary blame to you guys, I'm going to install the game again to see the problem has fixed or not.
If the problem remains, I will report it with some details.

 

[Frank]

FFB is great now @Andi Goodwin You guys are doing a good job on the new updates .

However, you recommend 30 degrees lock with 900 degrees rotation for all cars. For some reason this feels off and I can't turn the car enough in a lot of cases (GT's and DTM). In other games they seem to turn more with the same settings, is this intentional or do you think something is going wrong in my game?

 

[Andi Goodwin]

gts and dtm 540/20-23 is about right for me
wtcc fwd 540/19 (trying to save the tyres as i rag it)

but 540/20 is this 13.5:1 and 900/30 is 15:1

it really depends how you want it aswell ; i tend to set it so my wrists touch on tightest corner after that i try to protect tyres by backing of alittle ; yes i have to make alarger input (mm) but it is easier to catch the car and protect the tyres (fwd)

Andi

 

[Shovas]

FFB has been mostly fixed since the October update except, as far as I'm aware, ffb center deadzone issues which I'm happy to hear I'm not the only one or the only wheel having those issues. It drives me crazy feeling the wheel slap back and forth (even at 110% profiler strength - which also causes additional clipping). iRacing has this nipped with their Min Force setting. I'm hoping S3 can do something similar.

 

[Andi Goodwin]

its great everyone reports issues but it be good if yo said what wheel and whether its a stock or custom rcs file(if custom upload it , and profiler settings : that way its easier to see

As for me the fwd are lighter in the centre but thats probably due to the tyres being ragged on exit etc of corners

Andi

 

[JayJayRaceinho]

problem with wheel not sync with wheel rotation ingame still exists

 

[William Wester]

problem with wheel not sync with wheel rotation ingame still exists

As @Andy Goodwin stated above it would best if everyone would provide more detail to their requests for help or comments. For many the FFB, myself included, works great. With that said, it is impossible to help someone if the hardware being used or setup/configuration is unknown.
On the WMD forums (pCARS) most everyone has their OS, computer hardware, and input devices in their signature making it much easier to determine where a problem may lie or understand the differences between those trying to help - its actually a requirement on WMD (not strickly enforced though).
You mention a wheel sync and rotation problem still exists in R3E - not for me, so if you had a TM TX wheel I could directly help.

 

[William Wester]

Hi William

Is it possible that you could share your current TX settings please? It just feels really floaty and vague for me :-/

I can surely share my settings, when I get home tonight. Your mileage may vary as we all like a certain feel but many, if not all, of the TX users on RD I believe are happy with the FFB in R3E and may be able to chime in also.

 

[Peter]

I use default and only changed understeer 90 and vertical load to 150 for the TX. For the T500 I only changed vertical load to 90.

I used default a long time on both, very good to start with.

 

[Connor Caple]

I have no idea if the wheel rotation syncs in game as I always turn off the in-game wheel and driver where possible. It seems a strange problem to have.

I had no problem with the FFB on my G25 after the new 5GB patch - it all felt the same.

 

[JayJayRaceinho]

As @Andy Goodwin stated above it would best if everyone would provide more detail to their requests for help or comments.

the request i posted before 1-2 pages back, with exact details..... this was just a "reminder" that the problem still exists after the update .... and it seems only a few people have this wheel sync problem? (on a dfgt btw)

 

[Frank]

gts and dtm 540/20-23 is about right for me
wtcc fwd 540/19 (trying to save the tyres as i rag it)

but 540/20 is this 13.5:1 and 900/30 is 15:1

it really depends how you want it aswell ; i tend to set it so my wrists touch on tightest corner after that i try to protect tyres by backing of alittle ; yes i have to make alarger input (mm) but it is easier to catch the car and protect the tyres (fwd)

Andi

Ok Andi, I tried your settings, however there seems to be an issue. I have set up the wheel the same as suggested (I have a T500). My profiler is set to 540 degrees of rotation, in game at car setup I change my rotation to 540 and lock to 20 - 22, however when I start driving my whel doesn't turn further than 90 degrees, however I set it up. Every setting gives me the exact same result. If I go to wheel settings, I can turn my wheel the normal 270 degrees to each side without issues, so the game does seem to recognize my full rotation but as soon as I go in car that just disappears.

I hope you can help me out.

 

[Peter]

That's strange, I have 900° in the profiler and the game changes it to the correct car rotation.
Using T500, TX and G27.

 

[gege21]

I had no problem with the FFB on my G25 after the new 5GB patch - it all felt the same.

Hi,
Did you stay with the same ingame FFB setup like you posted here a few pages before ? Cause I have the same settings on my G25 and happy with it.
Could you post any modified values you have set ingame if any since your precedent post. That could help me to fine adjust my feelings.
Thank you

 

[William Wester]

Hi William

Is it possible that you could share your current TX settings please? It just feels really floaty and vague for me :-/

I have played with the same settings I had prior to yesterday's patch as it felt good as-is, sure doesn't feel floaty or vague to me. I run mostly 540 deg w/22 lock.

TM Control Panel
Rotation: 900 deg
Overall Strength: 100
Constant: 100
Periodic: 100
Spring: 0
Damper: 0
Auto Center: by the game

R3E - Controller - Advanced
Speed Sensitive Steering: 0
Min Steering Speed: 0
Max " " : 143
Analog Sector 1, 2, 3: 0
Return Multiplyer: 10
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Throttle " : 50
Brake " : 20
Clutch " : 50
Steering Deadzone: 0
Throttle " : 0
Brake " : 0
Clutch " : 5

Force Feedback
Force Feedback: On
Inverted " : Off
Gamepad Rumble: Off
Force Feedback Intensity: 70
Smoothing: 0

Steering Force Intensity: 100
Understeer: 100
Vertical Load: 200
Lateral Force: 150
Steering Rack: 100

Engine Vibrations: 12
Brake " : 30
Kerb " : 45
Shift Effect " : 75

Salt to taste.

 

[Satoru Ohno]

im going to disagree with you there , there has been some bd ffb in the past and changes have been made , but for most wheels it has improved if people set there profilers properly , no damper, no spring etc

if you have an issue with your wheel can you give some details ? wheel etc ...

Andi

OK I've done some test to see the problem has gone or not.

First of all, FFB is little better than before but worse than that just after ADAC has released.
I'm not going to say more about FFB because S3 staff and others are saying "FFB is getting better and better!". I gave up.

However, I found 2 other problems this time:
One: I have to hit Alt+F for 10 or more times to get FFB work before I leave pit stall.
Two: There is a huuuuge steering input lag that was not present before.

I've done these test with DTM2013 on Zandvoort.
And some additional info are:
G27 with the driver version 5.10.127 on Win7 64bit
Logitech Profiler:
Overall: 100%, Spring 0%, Damper 0%, Enable Centering Spring unchecked
Use Special blabla checked, Report Combined Pedals unchecked
Degrees of Rotation 540, Use Special Game Settings checked
Allow Game to Adjust Setting unchecked

 

[Satoru Ohno]

and my RCS file.

 

[Peter]

Start with a new default control set first.
I only changed steering force intensity to 150% and understeer to 90%.
Default was already good, only a little light.

 

[Andi Goodwin]

ok couple of things ; your settings are tweaked to death , and your running speed sensetive steering / kill the speed sensitive steering and and maybe have a look at a default setup and re use those numbers as a base ; because at present you have very little if no tyre feel and no weight hardly being applied to the front end ...

hope that helps

Andi

 

[Connor Caple]

Georg has explained those settings, but it seems some still don't understand:

The Understeer setting defines how quickly the wheel will become light when understeering (loosing grip on the front tyres). You will feel this as well when locking up brakes for example.
By default it´s set to be linear (100% grip = 100% force, 0% grip = 0% force)
Reduce that setting in order to prevent the wheel becoming too light too quickly.

Lateral Force takes forces into account that effect the tyres from the side (horizontally),
as opposed to vertical load, that looks at forces that effect the tyres from below.

Steering Rack Setting defines how much of the lateral forces are being taken from the steering rack rather than the tyres.

and...

If you are driving a RWD car, then you might want to lower the lateral forces in the ffb menu a bit, and increase steering force + vertical load instead.
Once you will get to drive the FWD cars you will see though, why the default profiles have some lateral forces in there.

If you are not bothered by your wheel making a bit of noise (Logitech wheels in particular) then go ahead and set the smoothing to 0.

If you want to increase the feeling for oversteer etc. increase the steering force.
If you want to get more feedback from the road surface increase vertical load.