Diff... the line is:
https://www.taylor-race.com/sites/default/files/DIFFERENTIAL ESSAY W PHOTOS2.pdf
My own trek is (repost)
:
You're doing it all wrong!
If one mashes up the "Loud Pedal" coming out of a tight corner, what ever the diff settings, if the rears light up, none of it matters.
"By limiting the slippage between the rear wheels, the differential can have a profound impact on the car's handling. The rule of thumb is: the more the diff limits slippage, the more the car will tend to go straight or understeer -- up to a point. On the power side, if enough torque is applied to spin both wheels, the car will snap into oversteer." --
http://www.intothered.dk/simracing/differential.html
That mean, on a long fast sweeper, at 100% lock, the inside want to rotate at the same speed as the outside. The rear axle wants the car to go straight. 100% lock, the car will not turn. At 0% lock, it will turn all we want but it wont accelerate out of anywhere (smoke show?). Just one more balancing act !
So if the car wants to over rotate when you touch the accelerator: Augment Power...
If the car does not to want to rotate during exit: Reduce Power.
Setting lock percentage by how the rear end pops out is not good. Wrong driving style. IRL, bye bye rear tyres in just a few laps. Always set your diff while driving with your head... not sliding, all wheels well planted.
To finish, there are a lot of very technical books out there but, for many readers, going through those can be quite harsh. Many years ago, I learned a lot from a little book that was a breeze to read:
Four Wheel Drift by Steve Smith. The guide that came with Grand Prix Legend. The people who did not go through it found GPL undrivable. The racers who did... learned to drive.
Exert: "Alison Hine uses the tire temps to help adjust the differential. Taking a reading coming off the Parabolica where you’re most likely to get wheel spin, she looks at the temp of the inside (RR) tire. If it’s higher than the outside tire temp, which would normally be the hotter of the two, she knows she’s spinning the inside tire, and adds a clutch or two until the temp drops. She knows she’s gone too far when both tires break loose together, sending the car into snap oversteer. Then she removes one clutch the inside tire should now begin to spin just before the outside tire breaks loose."
In Grand Prix Legend:
---
High ramp
angles equal
Low locking
%
---
high clutch # roughly equals to
high preload
%
Augmenting preload "mainly" sets the minimum level of locking so you don't get an open diff during the transition between power and coast. Adding clutches Modifies how fast that transition, the locking, happens. So during mid corner, applying-lifting-applying, if you're fighting the car, it's unstable, augment preload. I haven't played enough with clutch numbers to know what it really does
Gilles
*** Open mouth - insert foot - echo Internationally ***
---
How can you "Disagree" when this is how it is... I haven't invented anything here.
^^^^