I just got a t300rs.Can anyone share some settings that you find works good for rf2.I have not much time to test before a race Saturday so would be very much appreciated.
t300rs settings for rf2
- Thread starter Matt Horst
- Start date
Msportdan
@Simberia
Just try it and , again, you should read the many posts Paul Loatman has wrote about STS and how RF2 is messed up and linear in-game FFB (STS) as all out of whack.
With regards to the wheel at 100% instead of it's most linear (60%), again, the total power is too low in my opinion (and based on years of simracing) to want linear output because things in the lower range are just way too weak. Enough of the details just aren't felt. To me, feeling grip loss and tyre scrub in an obvious way is important, wether it's not perfectly in linear-proportion with other feelings isn't too important - as long as it's clearly felt is what's important.
I think you're paying too much attention to "on paper" stuff and what's "technically correct" rather than just trying it.
I'd also like to add that raising the control panel FFB helps to make up for the lower STS. Trust me, don't worry about lost forces with the lower STS. Just try it. The STS @ 1.000 (perfectly linear) is just wrong in my opinion (must FFB and/or physics issue). Again, read that FFB thread, there is tons of info regarding the STS including guys using T300RS wheels, T500RS, Accuforce and I believe even high-end servo wheels.
In the end, "to each his own" so go with whatever you like best of coursebut I really think you'd be interested in that thread especially regarding STS
you guys are on another level with your info here, but im with spin here somewhat. I would rather feel the forces lower down than have higher force detail. You spend more time at the bottom end of your wheels forces surely, then the higher forces.?
Re: rf2 ffb, i think people dont complain because theyre afraid of being told wrong or bashed down. I dont think its perfect at all. it does some things very well, but other things are poor like self aligning torque above and beyond certain slip angles. ie: turning a fast and high force coner and still have total turn in the wheel noth left and right without much force.
I have followed "Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2..." topic for some time, however I am not sure if I can recall statements of rF2 linearity being messed up, will try tool lookup again.
I do agree with you, hence why I use 75% force in TM panel, even with sims that don't provide linearity adjustments. I think that's a good compromise between maximum force and linearity.
With pCars I use linearity settings that makes T300@75% almost perfectly linear across the range The difference is clear when driving compared with no linearity adjustments. The deadzone in range 0-10% becomes linear, there is no ridiculous boost at 20-50% range, there are plenty of details at 50-100% range (this range is mostly used in my case) and what's best - you don't loose maximum torque. This setup provides plenty of details at all ranges. It allowed to enjoy details in pCars FFB for the first time. Currently pCars is the only sim that has proper linearity adjustment which allows to use maximum force available with almost perfect linearity.
I have been switching 60% 75% and 100% back and forward, higher values clearly are more counterintuitive, however below 70% you loose too much maximum force. Where as 100% from my perspective is useless when not using linearity adjusments, the wheel feels like a spring without any details at range of 50%+ input.
That's what STS is supposed to do, it's linearity adjustment, in this case you use STS to overcome "inbuilt" boosted forces at low-middle forces of T300/T500 wheel. This way you get maximum higher force (while keeping higher force in TM panel) with more linearity than without STS. However STS is very primitive in terms of accuracy compared to what you can do in pCars.
Assuming that rF2 isn't messed up in terms of linearity out of the box, then STS value that creates most linear output (on paper) is the most correct.
In case if rF2 linearity of FFB is indeed messed then very low STS values as you suggest might be closer to produce correct output.
However there is no confirmation of rF2 FFB being messed up and there is no way to actually calculate required STS for a particular wheel@force (as far as I know), hence both cases are just guesswork, which I think is the most annoying part.
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I don't think it's a case of STS itself being messed up - I bet it's not too difficult to tell the software to output something in a linear manner - but rather something with regards to the physics that is making linear FFB feel off.
Anyways, I much, much prefer the lower STS and higher control panel FFB. The wheel is way more alive for me and I can feel the smaller forces way better. If one force is supposed to be 25% and another is supposed to be 65% but because of my control panel setting they're now being felt at 50% and 70%, then that doesn't matter to me. That difference from one another (50% and 70% instead of 25% and 65%) doesn't mean much to me, as long as I can feel the force nice and obviously. The difference gap between the two doesn't do anything for my driving personally. I just need to feel it nice and strongly. I personally feel way less without the control panel @ 90-100%. The T300RS/TX is just too weak for me personally to really, cleanly, feel the lower forces.
Imagine Wheel A (weak wheel) only has power from 0-10 but Wheel B (strong wheel) has power from 0-100. Well if both wheels are perfectly linear then a 30% force output will be 30 power on Wheel B but only 3 power on Wheel A. 3 is a tiny amount of power overall to you regardless of how linear and 1:1 the wheel's forces are with relation to one-another.
It's not about dynamic range when the total range itself is low/small. Compression is needed when the total range is small or else anything not in the upper range may be too weak/low/subtle/hidden.
Just my opinion though. As wheels get more and more powerful, I will want a more and more 1:1 linear FFB motor output.
Anyways, I much, much prefer the lower STS and higher control panel FFB. The wheel is way more alive for me and I can feel the smaller forces way better. If one force is supposed to be 25% and another is supposed to be 65% but because of my control panel setting they're now being felt at 50% and 70%, then that doesn't matter to me. That difference from one another (50% and 70% instead of 25% and 65%) doesn't mean much to me, as long as I can feel the force nice and obviously. The difference gap between the two doesn't do anything for my driving personally. I just need to feel it nice and strongly. I personally feel way less without the control panel @ 90-100%. The T300RS/TX is just too weak for me personally to really, cleanly, feel the lower forces.
Imagine Wheel A (weak wheel) only has power from 0-10 but Wheel B (strong wheel) has power from 0-100. Well if both wheels are perfectly linear then a 30% force output will be 30 power on Wheel B but only 3 power on Wheel A. 3 is a tiny amount of power overall to you regardless of how linear and 1:1 the wheel's forces are with relation to one-another.
It's not about dynamic range when the total range itself is low/small. Compression is needed when the total range is small or else anything not in the upper range may be too weak/low/subtle/hidden.
Just my opinion though. As wheels get more and more powerful, I will want a more and more 1:1 linear FFB motor output.
Neither do I
Although I am not assured that there is an issue in the first place.You have been repeating that compression (boosting of low forces) is important for wheels that have low maximum torque. There is nothing wrong with that. However lowering STS below 1 is reducing low/mid forces and boosts high end range, which is opposite of what you suggest is important.
As per my testing with 0.25 STS (with 100% in TM panel) it gave me an impression that it made low/mid forces less strong than using 75% in TM with ~0.8 STS. There is barely any torque in range of 0-40% of input, the "center" is very weak, however at around ~70% of input there is huge spike of torque which continues to increase up to 100% in a very steep fashion. This would indicate that 0.25STS is so low that it even overcompensates inbuilt compression that T300 has and instead of making response more linear it actually goes below that and decreases low/mid forces (opposite of compression). I must agree on one thing that this boost at high end range gives really detailed high speed cornering (as in my case most high speed corners are using 60-100% range), however everything below is very weak.
It's up to users to decide if one prefers "dead" low/mid forces or "dead" high end forces or a compromise between the two (using linearity adjustment when possible while keeping relative high TM force setting).
For me it is. When using 75% (or above) in TM there is plenty of details/force at low/mid range by default, in fact there is too much for my taste hence I call it "wasted dynamic range". I prefer to use this spare "dynamic range" at higher end. Note that I am not reducing force in TM to do that, I am using STS or Scoop reduction in case of pCars to achieve linear output. With sims that do not provide linearity adjustment I just keep 75% in TM which is a usable compromise.
Msportdan
@Simberia
Could thishelp my rf2 issues
Spring coefficient higher than 0.0 adds self centering forces to the FFB. So the wheels is harder to turn and it wants to go back to the center independet from the cars physics.
Resisteance coefficient makes the wheel only harder to turn without centering forces.
Of course, to feel this effects dampening and spring have to be activated in your FFB Wheel driver
I have that feel that Tuttle mentions in that thread
http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...ce-coefficient?p=217826&viewfull=1#post217826
Spring coefficient higher than 0.0 adds self centering forces to the FFB. So the wheels is harder to turn and it wants to go back to the center independet from the cars physics.
Resisteance coefficient makes the wheel only harder to turn without centering forces.
Of course, to feel this effects dampening and spring have to be activated in your FFB Wheel driver
I have that feel that Tuttle mentions in that thread
http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...ce-coefficient?p=217826&viewfull=1#post217826
So much this!Absolutely, I went from dfgt to T300rs. Won't be goin' back
After using my DFGT for over five years I finally upgraded and after less than three days with the T300 I know there is no way I could ever go back to that 'toy'. This wheel combined with my Fanatic CSR Elite pedals and Clubsport shifter is pure sim racing nirvana.
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I only reinstalled rf2 today but for the flat6 mod I found that using a FFB mult of 1.2 with a min force of 3% feels awesome.
Msportdan
@Simberia
absolutely right michael. Same for me. I could never go back to gears!.
But i tried rf2 again last night and theres just something i cant seem to fix. Example: if i have a slow corner and i turn the wheel, i get an amount of force that makes it a slight effort to turn (which i would expect - and happy about). But soon as i get a faster corner, where its still quite a tight and fast corner, 1 - 2nd corner coming off the banking on the new pine springs track (road track) i dont get as much force in the turn, almost feels limp, and its so hard to be precise as i have no force pushing against me like the slower corner. As i expect there not to be as much force with rolling tyre and traction, but i least expect some not to be all loose. Everything else in RF2 ffb i love, its just this phenomena and it badly effects my driving.
Ive tried=
caster
ffb multi
Steering torque minimum @ 1.2/1.5/2.0
Spring in wheel profile.
Smoothing
Nothing seems to help me with this problem. I dont think its me constantly understeering i made sure my driving wasnt reckless. Has rf2 have that excessive understeer effect that AC has (no dig at ac- i think it works better in that)
Anyway..
Happy holidays gang..
dan
But i tried rf2 again last night and theres just something i cant seem to fix. Example: if i have a slow corner and i turn the wheel, i get an amount of force that makes it a slight effort to turn (which i would expect - and happy about). But soon as i get a faster corner, where its still quite a tight and fast corner, 1 - 2nd corner coming off the banking on the new pine springs track (road track) i dont get as much force in the turn, almost feels limp, and its so hard to be precise as i have no force pushing against me like the slower corner. As i expect there not to be as much force with rolling tyre and traction, but i least expect some not to be all loose. Everything else in RF2 ffb i love, its just this phenomena and it badly effects my driving.
Ive tried=
caster
ffb multi
Steering torque minimum @ 1.2/1.5/2.0
Spring in wheel profile.
Smoothing
Nothing seems to help me with this problem. I dont think its me constantly understeering i made sure my driving wasnt reckless. Has rf2 have that excessive understeer effect that AC has (no dig at ac- i think it works better in that)
Anyway..
Happy holidays gang..
dan
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Try my settings.
In the profiler thingy
Overall strength - 85%
Constant, Periodic, and Damper all at 100%
Spring at 0%
FFB multiplier of 1.2 and min force of 3%, haven't touched anything else so they are all at default.
Feels great to me in the couple of hours that I have been driving rf2.
In the profiler thingy
Overall strength - 85%
Constant, Periodic, and Damper all at 100%
Spring at 0%
FFB multiplier of 1.2 and min force of 3%, haven't touched anything else so they are all at default.
Feels great to me in the couple of hours that I have been driving rf2.
I will have to look for whatever 'smoothing' is...I haven't touched anything but ffb multi and min force.
I would never set smoothing to anything but 0 with a belt driven wheel (TX here), I want to feel the nuances!
I now have had this wheel for one year.I have been happy with it up until a couple days ago.Now the right paddle shifter is going bad.I contacted Thrustmaster support via email and got no response.
I have had quality issues with other Thrustmaster products in the past but was hopeful things would be different this time around.Very disappointing.
I have had quality issues with other Thrustmaster products in the past but was hopeful things would be different this time around.Very disappointing.
Don't freak out just yet. Mine starting making a few groaning and knocking noises when turning through about 10 degrees right. After a week or two they went away. Maybe a metal component was rubbing against a plastic component which eventually wore down?
I have a T500. The return spring in the clutch pedal assembly broke. I contacted customer service and had correspondence with a guy called Andreas.
Hi
The spring in my clutch pedal mechanism is broken.
Is it possible to aquire a replacement please?
If possible a more robust spring would be preferable, even if this means a higher spring rate.
Regards,
He usually took a day or two to respond. I'd left the pedals fully assembled in case they offered to fix them or... just in case. Andreas asked if I wanted the big spring????? I could only see one, so I guessed it was the big one yes.
OK, so at this point, I have to accept some responsibillity. I didn't fully check what he meant. I mean, a quick Google search showed that this was not an isolated incident, but I should have checked. Even though in his replies it mentioned said CLUTCH spring.
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: [http://support.thrustmaster.com/en] Technical support Broken clutch pedal spring [599282-1477916682]
I think you know where I'm going with this. So, the whole thing took two weeks, they charged me £19 inc postage, and the spring arrives and it is indeed bigger than the original. It had a bigger coil diameter, so it won't locate properly and is clearly going to foul the wire from the clutch potentiometer. Lo and behold, it apears to be identical to the BIG spring in the brake pedal assembly - there are two.
I measured the original and bought two springs, with bigger wire diameter and a marginally bigger coil diameter on Ebay for £4.50 inc postage (for the pair). While I was there, I screwed a bolt into a threaded hole an routed the clutch pot wire behind that, in order to prevent fouling by the spring.
Whilst I'm at it. All the cables inside have been held in place using a hot glue gun. Except the glue doesn't stick to the metal case, so they were all flapping around loose inside.
Hey guys since my switch to the T300 I use the following settings.
T300 driver
- everything to 100%
(except auto center)
RF2
- Multiplier depending on the pedal overlay
- FFB Smoothing 0
- FFB minimum torque 0-1%
Everything works and I'm happy.
T300 driver
- everything to 100%
(except auto center)
RF2
- Multiplier depending on the pedal overlay
- FFB Smoothing 0
- FFB minimum torque 0-1%
Everything works and I'm happy.
Hi guys, I'm using a T300 and the game thinks I have a "Controller (Rumble Gamepad F310)" connected whenever I put the F1 rim on and press detect.
It does recognise it as a T300 if I use either the standard RS rim or my custom USB real wheel.
I can set it to wheel (and/or load the T300 or T500 F1 profiles) and map the steering/buttons, but it just feels odd and I don't have 1:1 movement with any rim and the onscreen one.
It sets any of the rims to 612° in game and overrides the TM panel setting. Trying to get around it by changing either doesn't sort it out.
Not sure what's going on, as I at least had the non-F1 rim working properly until I reinstalled the game.
Any ideas?
FWIW, I have the generally recommended setting in the TM panel, and have done for a while.
It does recognise it as a T300 if I use either the standard RS rim or my custom USB real wheel.
I can set it to wheel (and/or load the T300 or T500 F1 profiles) and map the steering/buttons, but it just feels odd and I don't have 1:1 movement with any rim and the onscreen one.
It sets any of the rims to 612° in game and overrides the TM panel setting. Trying to get around it by changing either doesn't sort it out.
Not sure what's going on, as I at least had the non-F1 rim working properly until I reinstalled the game.
Any ideas?
FWIW, I have the generally recommended setting in the TM panel, and have done for a while.
