SIMUCUBE Direct Drive Wheel With Electronics Integrated Into The Motor

Deleted member 197115 · Mar 31, 2019

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...electronics-integrated-into-the-motor.386410/
April 3rd official announcement
https://www.simucu.be/

RCHeliguy · Sep 22, 2019

Why do you need to disable high torque mode before powering the base off. Doesn't the True Drive software require you to enable that every single time?

EsxPaul · Sep 22, 2019

RCHeliguy said:
Why do you need to disable high torque mode before powering the base off. Doesn't the True Drive software require you to enable that every single time?

I don't think you ""have" to disable high torque mode before powering off but I always do as a matter of habit which is why I like the warning beep to be in place.

It reminds me to disable high torque. Once I've done that I'll close TD and then reach behind the servo to flip the power switch off. It's just a little routine I have to make sure that the pc gets powered on before the servo on my next session.

Unless GD decide to change things going forward, you have to enable high torque mode each and every time the servo is powered up. I don't find it to be any hassle because I open TD on every session in order to pick a profile and switch off the wireless scanning, seeing as I have no need for that at the moment.

RCHeliguy · Sep 22, 2019

So you have to tell it to switch off wireless scanning every time too?
Sounds like a lot of hoops to jump through. I'm planning to stick with one car this season and expect to have one profile that I use for the time being.

I know the SC2 system is supposed to work well. I just wish it didn't come with so many extra steps.

EsxPaul · Sep 22, 2019

Yes, if you don't have a wireless wheel TD will continually scan and search for one. I don't suppose that really hurts anything but it's just another background process that I'd rather disable.

anton_Chez · Sep 23, 2019

I have my ES (2 of them) on the inside of the uprights. I can hit them both with each leg easily but only when needed. Otherwise they are not touched in normal driving conditions. I've only needed them a couple of times but it's good to have them handy. I like not having to touch it with my hand because in VR if the rim is going mental you may very well cause more damage attempting to reach for it. My OSW has hurt me on a couple of occasions.

RCHeliguy · Sep 24, 2019

I just got notification that my wheel will arrive tomorrow before 10:30AM!
So I spent my last 45 minutes at Imola on my CS 2.5 this early morning. Tonight I'll install the True Drive software and tomorrow AM let the fun begin!

The second PS, was no biggie at all and this is actually much smaller than I originally expected so I don't see size being an issue of any kind.

One comment. In Barry's review he mention that the SC2 Pro came with a USB cable with ferrite cores. Mine did not, so I used a cable that did have ferrite cores on both ends and ran it in an opposite direction to the power cables, but I don't know if that would have any impact on anything. I'm assuming this is a DC motor and the power cables have no signal in them and all the EMI that could possibly come through would come from the motor which is supposed to be shielded.

EsxPaul · Sep 24, 2019

RCHeliguy said:
The second PS, was no biggie at all and this is actually much smaller than I originally expected so I don't see size being an issue of any kind.

One comment. In Barry's review he mention that the SC2 Pro came with a USB cable with ferrite cores. Mine did not, so I used a cable that did have ferrite cores on both ends and ran it in an opposite direction to the power cables, but I don't know if that would have any impact on anything. I'm assuming this is a DC motor and the power cables have no signal in them and all the EMI that could possibly come through would come from the motor which is supposed to be shielded.

I had the same thing happen to me. Poor quality usb cable supplied so that went straight into the trash and was replaced by one with ferrites.

I run my usb cable bundled in with the two PSU cables and haven't had any issues so you should be good

Deleted member 197115 · Sep 24, 2019

You guys need to raise this concern on Granite board.

RCHeliguy · Sep 24, 2019

I wonder if they assume you had a wheelbase before getting an SC2 and are already wired? I know that's exactly what I did. I left the existing cable I was using in place.

But, yeah the USB cable they included is pretty wimpy. The braided cable with ferrite cores that I'm using is much more substantial.

Given the substantial nature of the other hardware they provided this does seem like an outlier. However, I've seen this before with a premium product that includes an almost vestigial part that works but that they know almost no one will actually use. Not sure that I consider this an issue.

alfye20 · Sep 24, 2019

My SPORT from Augury came with shielded USB cable.
Dont know why some SC2 arrives with poor cables inside

AlexN · Sep 24, 2019

EsxPaul said:
I don't think you ""have" to disable high torque mode before powering off but I always do as a matter of habit which is why I like the warning beep to be in place.

It reminds me to disable high torque. Once I've done that I'll close TD and then reach behind the servo to flip the power switch off. It's just a little routine I have to make sure that the pc gets powered on before the servo on my next session.

Unless GD decide to change things going forward, you have to enable high torque mode each and every time the servo is powered up. I don't find it to be any hassle because I open TD on every session in order to pick a profile and switch off the wireless scanning, seeing as I have no need for that at the moment.

For what it's worth, this is my typical startup procedure:

computer was in sleep mode, wake it up
SC2 software was already running from when the computer went to sleep
turn on the power strip for my motion and SC2
select the game profile I want (the software always seems to revert back to iRacing)
enable high torque mode

...and shutdown:

turn off the power strip
put computer to sleep

I haven't bothered with hitting the e-stop button or the SC2's power switch. I figure turning off the power strip is enough. #4 and #5 are the SC2-specific steps. On my DD2 I had to power it on via the physical on button on the e-stop switch, because there was no physical power button to keep it in the "on" state after power loss, but it did remember my last game profile selection.

EsxPaul · Sep 24, 2019

Andrew_WOT said:
You guys need to raise this concern on Granite board.

Did that at the time but couldn't really get a clear answer to my question

I didn't think it was too big of a deal as I needed a much longer cable anyway but there does seem to be some confusion over who actually supplies the usb cable, be it GD or the individual resellers...

https://community.granitedevices.com/t/simucube-2-supplied-usb-cable/2760

RCHeliguy · Sep 25, 2019

@EsxPaul It appears that their 1.0.8 True Drive Software fixed the bug having to do with whether the PC is powered up before the SC2.

You can also save a default profile to the SC2.

RCHeliguy · Sep 25, 2019

OMG! This is the best wheel ever!
Nice ergonomic corners to grip with and everything!

RCHeliguy · Sep 25, 2019

I didn't think it could feel any better, but it does.

I just got my very first taste of the SC2 with stock iRacing settings and my initial reaction is that the changes are very subtle, but unlike my CS2.5 it doesn't start bouncing when I take my hands off the wheel. I suspect as I get things dialed in I'll notice the differences more.

RCHeliguy · Sep 25, 2019

I have to say that the wheel feels great! The buttons are extremely easy to locate with your gloves on and without seeing the wheel. The only negative I could say are that the paddle shifters are a bit loud otherwise hopefully I picked the perfect general use wheel to use with just about everything for a while.

Deleted member 197115 · Sep 25, 2019

Round one will be more of the universal use than D shaped that doesn't work that well for rally, drifting, older classics. But for those you can just get bare rim, no need for paddles and buttons.
I have the same Sparco P310, only suede on Ascher plate, good choice for modern racers.
Can you bolt different wheel to that plate?

RCHeliguy · Sep 25, 2019

Andrew_WOT said:
Round one will be more of the universal use than D shaped that doesn't work that well for rally, drifting, older classics. But for those you can just get bare rim, no need for paddles and buttons.
I have the same Sparco P310, only suede on Ascher plate, good choice for modern racers.
Can you bolt different wheel to that plate?

I'm expecting to do exactly like you mentioned and get a bare Rally wheel. I either row my gears or use a sequential shifter with those anyway. This is an integral wheel so I can't swap out rims on it.

I looked at the Ascher racing wheels specifically the ones with interchangeable rims and they are nice. I'm not in any way trying to take anything away from them. I just liked the switch gear and layout of this wheel a bit better and maybe it was a mistake, but I believe I can pretty well use this wheel for anything that I'm ready for. If I ever get into F1 I may consider another wheel.

I wanted to have this wheel installed before ordering a bare Rally rim so I would know how much dish to get to have the rim line up in the same place. Now I know.

RCHeliguy · Sep 25, 2019

On another note. The stock iRacing settings are for about the same power as the CS 2.5 and while if feels good, I don't think you really feel what these wheels have to offer until you increase that force a bit. I'm sure this is a subjective thing, but it seems to come alive more at 12-14 Nm over the 8.7Nm in the stock settings.

For Rally I absolutely would not want the FFB set very high, but for a smooth track it works well.

I tried 100% and that is quite a handful and I suspect I would get pretty sore driving with that for a while.

RobertR1 · Sep 25, 2019

You'll actually clip the wheel all the time when at 100% At that point, there's no feedback just flat and dull force. I think the longest I did 100% on my small mige (20nm) was 45mins on Spa with a F2004. It was fine. Fun to do once I suppose.

You probably want to visit the iracing forums to get good settings. The SC2's already have a decent following and iracing specific data there.