SIMUCUBE Direct Drive Wheel With Electronics Integrated Into The Motor

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Regarding RaceRoom FFB, if you notice any notchy feeling near center, it's usually caused by the "Steering Rack" forces. I turn this setting to zero but, others say that using 100% also solves the issue. I've been very happy with the FFB in RaceRoom for quite some time (SC1) but, the main trick is to achieve a proper balance between the Lateral and Vertical forces; those provide the fundamental effects and the rest of the settings are for adding more detail for those that want them. You also want to have the Direct-Input enabled as some of the FFB-effects rely on those.

The direct input thing confuses me to be honest. Is it a matter of finding a list that will tell me which games do or don't use direct input?

When I look at the True Drive software, it appears to tell me that direct input effects are not in use. According to the user manual, if a - is shown next to an effect, is is not actively controlled by the game.

True Drive Raceroom 540.JPG
 
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Technically Fanatec has that now too. So if you want any 3rd party rim except the new BT rims, you can still run a USB cable and put any rim on there that you want.
P_HUB_CSQRA_large_1-1000x666.png

  • Accepts all third-party rims using the 6x70mm or 3x50mm bolt pattern (e.g. Sparco, MOMO, OMP)
  • Allows the use of third-party steering wheels with USB cables on all Fanatec bases (USB wheels must be connected separately to the PC)
Pretty sure most DD wheel makers can sort the pin outs and spare the need for a seperate USB connection if using this hub. There have long been Fanatec adapters so you could add a non-Fanatec wheel to your Fanatec wheel base. And those are only like $30-$40. There would be no reason to buy this hub if you weren't going to use the electronics contained in it.
 
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Pretty sure most DD wheel makers can sort the pin outs and spare the need for a seperate USB connection if using this hub. There have long been Fanatec adapters so you could add a non-Fanatec wheel to your Fanatec wheel base. And those are only like $30-$40. There would be no reason to buy this hub if you weren't going to use the electronics contained in it.

Sounds interesting, do you have any suggestions on where to look?

I can find plenty of adapters to allow Fanatec wheels to work on direct drive wheel bases, but I haven't found any like you mention.
 
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The direct input thing confuses me to be honest. Is it a matter of finding a list that will tell me which games do or don't use direct input?

When I look at the True Drive software, it appears to tell me that direct input effects are not in use. According to the user manual, if a - is shown next to an effect, is is not actively controlled by the game.

View attachment 310843
Most Sim's don't often use much of the Direct Input effects but, leaving them at 100% doesn't normally have any negative impact although, I recently discovered that rF2 FFB becomes too "Springy" with the DI-Spring effect at 100% so I have to reduce that to about 30%.

RaceRoom does utilize the Sine-wave effect and I have that set at 150% and Friction (DI-effect) at 115% with SC1.
 
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Man I leave all these settings at default and everything feels good. I wonder if I play with them that the outcome will be. I mean just the Direct Input stuff, they all stay at 100 I'm pretty sure and I use the same profile for every title bar the DOR which needs to be changed in the Simucube software for Raceroom. It annoyingly doesn't set it automatically. Neither does AMS if I remember correctly.
 
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I wouldn't be using Raceroom to test FFB settings and especially a new wheelbase such as the SC2. That title is notorious for being very difficult to tune for direct drive wheels. A much more intuitive and reliable test would be with rF2 and iRacing. I like Raceroom but the FFB settings and amount of options they give you make it difficult to get a 'correct' feeling.

I'm happy with mine now as a small Mige user but yeah definitely try something else to test your wheel base out on. AMS is also right up there with rF2 in just getting to the driving.

Mate, you were right on the money with that advice.

I just gave rF2 a first crack and came away with a huge grin on my face. Much better than R3E out of the box and the best ffb I've experienced yet.

I'm not the best person to be referencing when it comes to ffb as my total experience is a G29 and now a SC2 Pro but damn, this thing is a bit special :thumbsup:
 
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Sounds interesting, do you have any suggestions on where to look?

I can find plenty of adapters to allow Fanatec wheels to work on direct drive wheel bases, but I haven't found any like you mention.
I am at a loss. I looked but cant find the one I was thinking of. It was essentially a CSL QR, but not Fanatec. You could always use the Fanatec Club Sport QR, but at $100 you might as well spend the extra $100 and work on electronic integration with the podium hub.
 
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Nearly a month with no action on this thread. What's going on? Is the software in a state of limbo? Have they released power extension cords yet?

Wheels like this are definitely a strong selling feature for a DD wheel like this, or at least they seem drool worthy.
 
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I noticed SimuCube 1 Boards are out of stock on the Granity Store now. :(

There goes my upgrade path. Should have done it when I had the chance. hahaha

EDIT: Nevermind, back in stock it seems... Come on sale! :p (Patiently waits until November...)
 
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I was hoping to see some comparisons of SC2 by SC1 users by now.

SimRacingBay's website says they won't take a pre-order until August for the Pro and Sport and the Ultimate just says Preordering is not an option at this time.

It's hard to tell how many of them actually got out into the wild.

So far all we have are the glowing reports from SRG all posted in this thread. He thinks the SC2 Pro feels smoother than the Mige motors used by the SC1, likes the quick release, found the BT worked for him.

Hopefully we'll all have a better idea over the next 6 months.
 
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