simucube 2 pro which version
- Thread starter fudo777
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TedBrosby-
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There's already issues with the R2 experiencing a strange high pitched noise. GD has called for whoever has this issue to send them a DM on Facebook. I've never had an issue like that with my R1 and neither has anyone on this forum or iRacing members' forum.
Between that and the lower quality push button power switch on the back, the questionable PSU brand and the weird stance they have taken on the peak power limitations of the 480W PSU, I would prefer the R1 myself.
I am trying to sell my R1, but I think there's some new ones floating around.
Between that and the lower quality push button power switch on the back, the questionable PSU brand and the weird stance they have taken on the peak power limitations of the 480W PSU, I would prefer the R1 myself.
I am trying to sell my R1, but I think there's some new ones floating around.
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Your choices look good.
Some observations - i know most here love the professional "real" race seats, but as the rig will not be actually speeding down a real track, I saw a no pain opportunity to save some money and went with the large NRG FRP-300 and I'm extremely happy with this choice. Looks just as good as the top models, fe3els great, and seems well made. The perfect match for a Sim rig that doesn't need a certified seat. The price is super inexpensive in comparison. The savings could get you a tactile setup!
For a separate Seq shifter, and handbrake, Check out Aiologs. You won't believe what you have been sent for the price. Industrial build and excellent feel.
I do think a H shifter is a nice add on in addition to the seq shifter, But I'm not in love with the current options, Other than the super expensive current king!. I would hold off as I inderstand some good options may be coming soon!
Some observations - i know most here love the professional "real" race seats, but as the rig will not be actually speeding down a real track, I saw a no pain opportunity to save some money and went with the large NRG FRP-300 and I'm extremely happy with this choice. Looks just as good as the top models, fe3els great, and seems well made. The perfect match for a Sim rig that doesn't need a certified seat. The price is super inexpensive in comparison. The savings could get you a tactile setup!
NRG 1pc Bucket Racing Seat Fiber Glass Foam Lumbar Cushions 300e for sale online | eBay
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For a separate Seq shifter, and handbrake, Check out Aiologs. You won't believe what you have been sent for the price. Industrial build and excellent feel.
I do think a H shifter is a nice add on in addition to the seq shifter, But I'm not in love with the current options, Other than the super expensive current king!. I would hold off as I inderstand some good options may be coming soon!
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.. and even if it is a real race seat, but does not fit properly, meaning tightly and precisely,
then it cannot well simulate the genuine experience, so IMO better to have a comfortable seat.
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D
Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115
Tight <> comfortable. As you are not subjected to G-forces, looser fit is better for longer sessions. That was my experience after rolling few.
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TedBrosby-
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Real racing seats also have unnecessary motorsports compliant safety ratings. I think Sparco has a gaming focused seat. I think a modern sports car seat would be perfect because it's built for long driving but still has some of the sports feel. But I'm trying to remember if Barry Rowland or someone said that "reclining" seats could have issues if you have load cells? The reclining seat that came with my GT Omega cockpit was definitely sketchy and didn't feel like it would hold up against even a Fanatec CSL load cell, let alone my Sprints.
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Andrew_WOT thanks
is this your place Corbeau FX1 Pro Racing Seat – Import Image Racing
where ordered?
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There is no such thing as a 100% force driver — it's impossible to play anything with 100% force — 100% force is impossible to hold on even for some kind of body builder — not to mention highly dangerous.
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Tight can be comfortable, but requires careful seat fitting and nearly always a custom insert.
I once drove my track car to St. Jovite (and back) and several times to Sebring (and back),
which would have worked for neither me nor my copilot with uncomfortable seats,
and a tight fit is absolutely wanted e.g. thru Sebring's Sunset Bend and Mid Ohio's Carousel.
A motion rig without tight seat fit would seem (to me) pointless;
I find sim driving challenging enough without the distraction of motion.
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TedBrosby-
Premium
I did a 5 lap time trial with 100% force feedback with my Simucube 2 Pro.
It's doable and I'm far from a body builder, but it's still a very bad idea because:
Even if you set your game to 100% FFB and max amperage in True Drive, the theoretical max is still above that so if you crash or hit a very hard corner at high speed, you'll get "more" than 25 Nm as a signal, which will cause clipping.
During a 5 lap time trial, I heard the clipping warning 50+ times and I stopped counting.
It's very uncomfortable and your lap times will be miserable. You won't be able to grab as much of an apex as possible because you'll be worried about curb torque spikes. Especially in ACC, the somewhat "triangle wave" like curbs will be quite harsh and risk snapping the wheel out of your hands.
That being said, there's more reasons than that for the R1 to be better than the R2. While the R1 was built to have fail safes from overloading the twin PSU's, it was also built without a "peak only" overload current that the 450W Chinese PSU that they're using in the R2 has. It was built with the guarantee that two 280W Meanwell PSU's that have 12A of current always. You won't have to worry about holding torque exceeding the operating range of the custom 450W PSU because the double 280W Meanwell PSU's are built to operate at 100% of the SC2 Pro's torque capability, which it was rated for 25 Nm.
Make no mistake, engineering wise the R1 is better built to handle holding torque of 25 Nm than the R2 is.
But there's another reason to have a higher torque rating even if you're not a "100% force feedback driver".
I discovered that the theoretical max might be 25 Nm for the SC2 Pro, but my experimental max was actually 25 Nm over 30 Nm (30 Nm max force with 25 Nm wheel force) in iRacing. As I said before, there's noticeable clipping. So actually I can run an SC2 Pro at about 20 Nm of overall max torque in iRacing and avoid clipping. So what this means is, an SC2 Sport will not be able to run 17 Nm of torque without clipping. Your actual max with an SC2 Sport will be around 13-14 Nm. And that gets REALLY close to how much torque I run my Pro at (I run between 50-55 Nm max torque which is about a 40%-50% ratio, meaning 12.5 Nm or so of torque).
There's not a lot of room there to be honest.
None of this matters because GD engineers have sort of admit that in recent firmware they have reduced the current max for both the R2 and the R1 due to the R2 having a lower amperage PSU with peak current.
@Andrew_WOT has asked them maybe 5+ times if they reduced the power rating of the R1 because of the R2's PSU and they never answered him or they say something like "no one would ever notice the difference".
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Exactly - so all this discussion on R1 vs R2 is pointless in the end. I have an R1, I'd happily have the R2 as well.
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D
Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115
I am not sure about the place but this is the seat I have now, except Wide version in cloth. For the price, I don't think you'll find anything new of that quality.
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D
Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115
In case you find PSU cables a bit short. https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812987026?Item=N82E16812987026
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I know you are asking about the Simucube Pro, but if you are asking about V1 because of cost, I invite you to consider the Sport.
In my opinion, the Sport has way more power and speed than a typical person, in typical circumstances, needs. Anyone who thinks they need more than 17 nm simply hasn't yet seriously hurt a thumb - and it will happen sooner or later unless you stay far enough down in power to make even clipping moot (and in a crash, if anything, you want it to clip!).
Unless you are SURE you will be running a very heavy wheel (and that's fine), the difference between the Sport and Pro is quite minor: They are both better than most people need or will wind up using.
In my opinion, the Sport has way more power and speed than a typical person, in typical circumstances, needs. Anyone who thinks they need more than 17 nm simply hasn't yet seriously hurt a thumb - and it will happen sooner or later unless you stay far enough down in power to make even clipping moot (and in a crash, if anything, you want it to clip!).
Unless you are SURE you will be running a very heavy wheel (and that's fine), the difference between the Sport and Pro is quite minor: They are both better than most people need or will wind up using.
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