Setups | RaceRoom Racing Experience

[brunocrz]

hello who can help me for a stable setup dtm 92 BMW for monza thank you???

 

[Guldknöl]

just bought dtm 2020, wondering if there is something wrong, completely impossible to get a sensible setup, does not resemble 2013, 2014, 2015 or 2016.

 

[STF YVR]

What's wrong ?

 

[UMC 22]

... does not resemble 2013, 2014, 2015 or 2016.

No offence, but why would it? Those cars are four years old, so not only are they a slightly different spec in real life than the current cars, but they are also on different physics within R3E as well.

But to get an answer you're going to need to explain what is wrong, what it is you want to change about the behaviour of the car. It's not "completely impossible" to get a sensible setup since the default works fine, so what is it specifically that you're having trouble with?

 

[Guldknöl]

wrong? it is simply so that I do not manage to keep the same speed as I succeed in for example dtm 2016 compared to ai, no matter how much I try to test different setup, I am hopelessly slow no matter what I do

 

[Jeka_djonik]

I want to say the same thing, I'm not happy with how the car behaves on the track. But, there are pluses. 1) + is that the DTM behaves like a velcro to the road surface. But then I see the minuses I do not know to attribute to the car or to the game itself, I do not feel the road surface. Parbriki bagels I feel like the steering wheel becomes heavy in a turn, I also feel it. But the roadway looks like glass. I drive DD accuforse v2. Gt3 maunt panarama feels irregularities drifts. can and need to do some other settings?

 

[UMC 22]

wrong? it is simply so that I do not manage to keep the same speed as I succeed in for example dtm 2016 compared to ai, no matter how much I try to test different setup, I am hopelessly slow no matter what I do

You really need to stop comparing the DTM 2020 to the DTM 2016. They are different cars. Just because you are reasonable at driving one does not automatically mean you will be any good at driving the other.

To me this is a simple solution... stop messing about with your setup, and learn to drive the car properly. I run default setup and can quite easily keep pace with the AI and also did ok on the leaderboards, so there is nothing wrong with the car. The issue is that you're trying to drive it like something it's not... a 2016 DTM. You need to learn to drive it as what it is... a DTM 2020.

 

[RSare7]

You really need to stop comparing the DTM 2020 to the DTM 2016. They are different cars. Just because you are reasonable at driving one does not automatically mean you will be any good at driving the other.

To me this is a simple solution... stop messing about with your setup, and learn to drive the car properly. I run default setup and can quite easily keep pace with the AI and also did ok on the leaderboards, so there is nothing wrong with the car. The issue is that you're trying to drive it like something it's not... a 2016 DTM. You need to learn to drive it as what it is... a DTM 2020.

Totally agree. At first I was desperate because 2016 had nothing to do with 2020 until I calmed down and began to understand 2020.

 

[Calvyn White]

The 2020s are like 2016 before 2016 got updated to better physics.

 

[STF YVR]

I could not disagree more with the above post and language (rubbish physics come on !).

IMHO opinion these cars are strong contenders for the title of best car released in any sim in 2021 and they are an absolute must-buy.

Admittedly the default setups need a bit of work but the setup pages in Raceroom give a lot of very useful clues as to how to improve them. Once you get the cars dialed in, you will enjoy some of the finest sim-racing possible.

Not to say improvements are not possible. At the moment, I have found it almost impossible to bring the tires to their optimal temperatures at Zolder for example but could be something I missed, any advice welcome here.

 

[Jan Larsen]

Regarding the setup question; just use the default, its fine, you wont cure the snappy throttle oversteer through setup as only the diff preload can be adjusted which does bugger all in difference.

As for the car; its reasonably balanced at high speed and is ok at lower speeds. The biggest challenge will be the snap oversteer. Bringing the tires up to temperature helps a little obviously, but throttle control is key. I plan on swapping my throttle and clutch pedal springs to see if a harder throttle pedal will help.
Zolder is a low speed curcuit and with hard tires its difficult to get heat in them. Lausitzring has more sweeping, faster corners which helps. I had temp issues with the tires in the GT3's aswell with them being too cold. The only solution was to play around with pressures and just drive harder.

 

[STF YVR]

Indeed on Lauzitzring, I have no difficulty bringing the tires temperatures up.

 

[Nic Baum]

Die Autos brauchen nur ganz leichte veränderungen etwas weniger flügel und die Dämpfung etwas anpassen fertig auto läuft eine 7,45 min sollte immer bei der 24std Nordschleife drinsitzen

 

[jay1661]

hi mr c, i am new on rre and have a t500 , do you remember your profiler and in game settings with that wheel? i mean after december ffb and physics update of course

As seen here [Unnecessary link removed]



RaceRoom Settings :

For T500 or Thrustmaster users:
I use T500 Config Manager to change the profile from sim to sim or car to car.
Steering rotation and lock
- GTR3, DTM13/14/15, Aquila CR1, Group5 - 540Degrees wheel + game / 16-20 lock car setup
- WTCC 13/14/15, NSu, Audi TT, Silhouette, 540Degress wheel + game / 12 - 18 lock car setup
OR
- some "aliens" use for WTCC13/14/15, Nsu, etc. , <250Degrees wheel+game/10-16 car setup

Thrustmaster T500RS wheel settings:
Overall strength - 60%
Constant - 100%
Periodic - 70%
Steering force intensity - 75%
Spring - 100%
Damper - 80%
Auto Center - by the game 12%

RaceRoom force feedback settings:
General Force feedback settings :
Force feedback intensity - 100%
Smoothing - 15%
Force feedback spring - 0%
Force feedback damper - 0%
Steering force settings :
Force feedback Minimum force - 10%
Understeer - 60%
Vertical Load - 60%
Lateral Force - 75%
Steering Rack - 100%
Force feedback effect settings :
Slip effect - 45%
Engine vibrations - 0%
Kerb vibrations - 30%
Shift effect - 0

 

[UMC 22]

As seen here...

Those settings are from a post dated to 2016. The person above was specifically asking for post-December update settings because a lot has changed in both physics and FFB since Mr C posted them. They also appear to be exactly the same as the settings already in the OP of this thread.

 

[Derek44]

As seen here [Unnecessary link removed]



RaceRoom Settings :

For T500 or Thrustmaster users:
I use T500 Config Manager to change the profile from sim to sim or car to car.
Steering rotation and lock
- GTR3, DTM13/14/15, Aquila CR1, Group5 - 540Degrees wheel + game / 16-20 lock car setup
- WTCC 13/14/15, NSu, Audi TT, Silhouette, 540Degress wheel + game / 12 - 18 lock car setup
OR
- some "aliens" use for WTCC13/14/15, Nsu, etc. , <250Degrees wheel+game/10-16 car setup

Thrustmaster T500RS wheel settings:
Overall strength - 60%
Constant - 100%
Periodic - 70%
Steering force intensity - 75%
Spring - 100%
Damper - 80%
Auto Center - by the game 12%

RaceRoom force feedback settings:
General Force feedback settings :
Force feedback intensity - 100%
Smoothing - 15%
Force feedback spring - 0%
Force feedback damper - 0%
Steering force settings :
Force feedback Minimum force - 10%
Understeer - 60%
Vertical Load - 60%
Lateral Force - 75%
Steering Rack - 100%
Force feedback effect settings :
Slip effect - 45%
Engine vibrations - 0%
Kerb vibrations - 30%
Shift effect - 0

is that t500 config manager working anymore? i knew it wasn't

 

[rustablad]

wrong? it is simply so that I do not manage to keep the same speed as I succeed in for example dtm 2016 compared to ai, no matter how much I try to test different setup, I am hopelessly slow no matter what I do

Default setup is really fast out the box, most ppl are softening the front a bit (maybe 5 clicks down on springs, 5 clicks down on dampers) and leaving rear at max stiffness, lower diff to around 100, slightly reduce rear wing. This is one of those cars that gets a bit mushy and unresponsive when you play with softening the rear too much in an attempt to try and make it better at low speeds.

 

[TheQ1982]

Hi guys,

does anyone has a good setup for BMW M6 GT3 / Watkins Glen International Grand Prix on hand?

Would appreciate it - thanks!

Cheers Christian

 

[Ady Knotts]

This may help