...I'm gonna have to spend a little time learning about setups...
There is a fine
pdf here at RD download are that might help, may I suggest you start there...
There was another
C6R too in that race, ask ing for a setup is ok as there were only 2 on-line (
unlike with other more popular GTP cars) and I didn't like them both btw (they were time attack-sprint setups)...
A "good" setup for me, it isn’t necessarily a "good" setup for you, but it helps you compare why the car does certain things or reacts in a certain way to your impute.
The reason I wait for people to ask for a setup (
and don't “give out” setups) it's because I not only don’t want to sound obnoxious
(“I’m good, here, take my fine setup”), but also I think people should ask for what they want (
personal opinion).
Anyway, an endurance setup is different from a sprint setup for obvious reasons and in a way harder to balance since fuel, tire, engine wear scaling is “bugged” and always off in on-line sprint racing…
This race was with dry weather, now imagine with “random” weather, all the variables, cold, rain, hot… a real pain :rotfl:
But don’t give up, this is all "virtual" so not only no one comes out "hurt", but also when we start with an "high horse", if we fall, the fall is from high, like a champion...
(at least it isn’t a midget one :wink2
... But when i was back on track my engine blew without any warning what so ever...
What I typed above about “wear” scaling being off applies here too… in a 2 hrs event there is no scaling needed, so the “time rpm max” (
or whatever is called) variable can reach its allowed maximum (
game car files).
Unlike sprinting (without scaling) where one can haply
over-rev and “scream “the engine (
be it in down-shift or up-shift), in an endurance race you are just playing with the odds, it’s a question of luck. When the maximum is reached (
the rpm sort of accumulate in an rpm “bank”), at the slights
rpm peak, the engine can blow.
For instances, on this race, I always shifted just before the “red line” and I kept the all important
rev limiter (
important for defensive reasons when downshifting fast or mistakenly dropping 2 gears in one go) in the standard position. I didn’t do what most people do 1st, up the rev limiter all the way up (
even in Qualifying)…
All the cars in
Race07 with a few exceptions (
the C6R is one of them) are rev-outs… as more you rev, more they go.
Obviously this comes at a price, we need not to forget that overall,
SimBin (
unlike real live) tries to do all the cars in a given class in a balanced way. The "price" of a fast V12 that over-revs like mad and a car that has much down-force, is a sort of high fuel consumption, tires wear and perhaps more importantly, engine live.
Don’t get me wrong, the DB9 goes the distance, but if you keep over-reving, you just playing with the odds, this time you hadn’t luck, perhaps you might have it next, who knows… also even without upping the rev-limiter, the DB9 can be an endurance winner (
even without counting with luck), the racetrack just needs to be a little bit tighter :wink2:
In real live, racers do a few ”attack” laps to open the gap (
going over rev if we might say so), then when the gap is open, they “slow/balance” their pace and keep distance. As this is an
US event, it’s like in Indy500 in the
turbo age, we could put up the turbo pressure all the way up… for a few laps, not all race.
Guys, please remember that English isn’t my fist language, so this might sound as if I’m “lecturing”, but I’m not, I’m just trying to bluntly being clearly as I can… even to those who didn't had luck on their side today, we all gained the "all important" (simrace) experience :wink2:
