Hi guys, the past while I was trying to find good comparisons between these two models of dd's. Has anyone tested both ? I understand that the software for these aren't complete yet but is there any clear winner here ? thanks.
Podium DD's VS Simucube 2's
- Thread starter Darren Byrne
- Start date
Martin is great, still remember him talking to me in skype for a couple hours in the middle of the night trying to get my OSW going in 2014. Him in Germany, myself in New Zealand. Had no problems years later getting things from him.
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Don't want to advocate for any of the named companies or people, but I wouldn't see Fanatec /Endor, Martin Ascher and Heusinkveld for example in the same league.
I see the latter two as highly specialized, small companies where the founders / creative minds are running the show. I would even say they are driven by passion first, then business.
Compared to them Fanatec is a huge company mass-marketing sim racing products....a business first and foremost.
That said I like what they did with the M4GT3 wheel. When I was in the market for a wheel for my SC2 I would've loved to find such a product on the market. Will be interesting to see pricing, quality and functionality. Personally I think the idea to market a real wheel to the simmers is brilliant.
I see the latter two as highly specialized, small companies where the founders / creative minds are running the show. I would even say they are driven by passion first, then business.
Compared to them Fanatec is a huge company mass-marketing sim racing products....a business first and foremost.
That said I like what they did with the M4GT3 wheel. When I was in the market for a wheel for my SC2 I would've loved to find such a product on the market. Will be interesting to see pricing, quality and functionality. Personally I think the idea to market a real wheel to the simmers is brilliant.
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TedBrosby-
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Not even four months old...
I literally just moved it from my old house to new house, removed the antenna, reattached it once, and the threading came loose. I tried to tighten the antenna because it kept falling loosely, so I tightened the antenna thread/nut, attached the antenna again, my wireless signal was low... Like 25-40%. It started to disconnect.
I pulled open the housing and sure enough, the cable twist-ripped. Why didn't they use thread lock on the antenna? Or a higher quality antenna cable with a grip washer on the inside? The antenna housing isn't very good and while tightening the antenna, the hole where the antenna goes through started to get scored by the antenna itself.
Just goes to show: Go USB wheels... Luckily I have a bluetooth cable lying around for a wireless DIY wheel I was going to build, so I used that cable here, but to be honest, I did contact Tommo at SRB because for how expensive this wheelbase is, I want Granite to take care of this. While I did replace the antenna, it's not a permanent solution because the antenna housing has scored/grinded insertion hole now. The antenna is bound to come loose again in the future because of how thin the housing wall is and the material they used.
I'm just worried about how to resolve it. I don't feel comfortable taking the PCB off and you can't replace the antenna housing without removing the PCB. If all they're going to do is ship me a replacement antenna, that's not good enough for me, because this seems to be a faulty design decision for the antenna. The antenna housing itself and the antenna should be replaced with something that won't come loose so easily.
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TedBrosby-
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Also, check out the R2 plate.
It's obvious they realized the thin flexing fiberglass was faulty design when they made the R2.
So much for "very little differences"...
The R2 rear plate fixes the antenna directly to the entire enclosure. It looks more stable and rigid. I honestly hope they can help me with this without money out of my pocket or me having to take apart the electronics myself.
I would prefer they just replace my unit with an R2 so I don't have to worry about the antenna in the future, but I'm not holding my breath...
Edit: Just got a reply from Tommo that since the cable isn't soldered, he's asking me to replace it myself. I know it's not a big deal, it's just an RP-SMA cable... But I'm spending the limited time I have during my year end leave repairing a consumer product. I know a lot of you will disagree with me on this, but I'm not feeling like a customer right now and more like I bought a nicely packaged DIY kit.
If any of you experience a loose antenna, remove your entire wheelbase, remove the rear plate, use a set of pliers to hold the antenna in place from inside the plate, and then tighten the nut on the outside. I feel sorry for anyone with a front mounting solution like the P1-X who has a hard to reach rear of their wheelbase. If you try to tighten the antenna from it being mounted, you'll twist the cable on the inside and rip it.
It's obvious they realized the thin flexing fiberglass was faulty design when they made the R2.
So much for "very little differences"...
The R2 rear plate fixes the antenna directly to the entire enclosure. It looks more stable and rigid. I honestly hope they can help me with this without money out of my pocket or me having to take apart the electronics myself.
I would prefer they just replace my unit with an R2 so I don't have to worry about the antenna in the future, but I'm not holding my breath...
Edit: Just got a reply from Tommo that since the cable isn't soldered, he's asking me to replace it myself. I know it's not a big deal, it's just an RP-SMA cable... But I'm spending the limited time I have during my year end leave repairing a consumer product. I know a lot of you will disagree with me on this, but I'm not feeling like a customer right now and more like I bought a nicely packaged DIY kit.
If any of you experience a loose antenna, remove your entire wheelbase, remove the rear plate, use a set of pliers to hold the antenna in place from inside the plate, and then tighten the nut on the outside. I feel sorry for anyone with a front mounting solution like the P1-X who has a hard to reach rear of their wheelbase. If you try to tighten the antenna from it being mounted, you'll twist the cable on the inside and rip it.
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D
Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115
And rotary dial phone.Loving my USB corded wheel
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I strongly resisted going corded having bought a Simucube but now that i found the perfect for me wheel with Simagic' s GT4 Carbon, I find it really is no big deal.
Sorry to hear of the troubles @TedBrosby-. Though it is my opinion some of your statements are a bit over the top, i certainly understand the frustration especially when you just want to sit down and drive and your time is limited.
Sorry to hear of the troubles @TedBrosby-. Though it is my opinion some of your statements are a bit over the top, i certainly understand the frustration especially when you just want to sit down and drive and your time is limited.
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RCHeliguy
Premium
And rotary dial phone.
Yeah.... It's surprising what you can do with a rotary phone these days.
In keeping with my low tech approach to things, I hope to have this mostly assembled tomorrow morning after a large 3D print finishes.
And to be fair, my USB mount is pretty well integrated and very easy to access.
Edit: I'm loving this!!!!
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D
Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115
It was a joke, both work, BT is actually surprisingly robust. I have two wireless wheels and one USB, and use them interchangeably.
No excuse for sloppy assembly though, but things like this happen with any product, I wouldn't fault the whole wireless solution as a source of the problem.
No excuse for sloppy assembly though, but things like this happen with any product, I wouldn't fault the whole wireless solution as a source of the problem.
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RCHeliguy
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I'm not faulting the solution, and I'm happy people like it.
I still have many issues with it, but that is me and I voted with my wallet.
Easy peasy. I'm not trying to spread FUD. I simply don't see it as a net positive.
Of course I have one USB wheel and I run my rally wheel blank with no controls on it. However when I put a wheel on, it is typically on for weeks at a time. If I had a specialty wheel for each and every car I drove in game I might feel differently.
However as it is I have a single wheel that I happily use for all of my racing. I like how it feels and see no reason to get more wheels. Honestly I'm VERY glad I feel that way or I would have a dozen wheels on my wall. Rally is the exception. I want a larger round wheel, but it comes on periodically when I feel like doing Rally for a while usually is spurts.
I still have many issues with it, but that is me and I voted with my wallet.
Easy peasy. I'm not trying to spread FUD. I simply don't see it as a net positive.
Of course I have one USB wheel and I run my rally wheel blank with no controls on it. However when I put a wheel on, it is typically on for weeks at a time. If I had a specialty wheel for each and every car I drove in game I might feel differently.
However as it is I have a single wheel that I happily use for all of my racing. I like how it feels and see no reason to get more wheels. Honestly I'm VERY glad I feel that way or I would have a dozen wheels on my wall. Rally is the exception. I want a larger round wheel, but it comes on periodically when I feel like doing Rally for a while usually is spurts.
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Jivesauce
Premium
For what it's worth I bought an R2 a couple months ago and my antenna was loose and twisting freely right from the factory, so don't count on that changing it! I had to disassemble the rear plate and tighten the connector, and still wasn't super thrilled with how tight I got it, but it's working anyway.
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..and analog clutchesAnd rotary dial phone.
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little complaint: make a fanguard on that fan, especially when you have kids or pets...
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stigs2cousin
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Well, it caught me too.
Racewerks from whom i bought the SC2pro is about an hours drive from me.
Whats your opinion?
Fix it myself or drive there and let them do it?
On the one hand I´d like to make them repair it because it´s theyr problem, on the other hand I don´t want to be without my SC2 for weeks, so mailing it to them is out of the question.
Simdriving/racing is the only thing that has kept me sane for the last year, been on volontary and mandatory lockdown for most of that time.
MFG Carsten
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Jivesauce
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Oh man, it's hard to say. If you're fairly handy it's not too big a deal, it's just a couple screws holding the back plate/circuit board on, then the antenna itself. There are wires attaching the circuit board to the motor that are pretty sturdy and I think you'd have to work pretty hard to damage them, but the antenna wires are pretty fine and would be easy to damage.
With the retailer an hour away, it would be a temptation for me to make them do it just so it's their problem if there are complications, but if you need the instant gratification I imagine you'll be fine doing it yourself.
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TedBrosby-
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I think it's funny how if something like this happens with an Apple or Fanatec product, everyone is like "Typical Fanatec/Apple overpriced junk! That's why we tell you part time college student baristas they're overpriced!"
But our $1500 direct drive gaming accessory? No big deal, just fix it yourself, why are you crying about it?
I fixed it myself, but I'm debating selling this thing and moving on.
But our $1500 direct drive gaming accessory? No big deal, just fix it yourself, why are you crying about it?
I fixed it myself, but I'm debating selling this thing and moving on.
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I would call and ask them. I was there an picked up my SC2 Sport, they are really great and very helpful people.
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