Not sure if it helps as I mostly only race in the faster open wheelers but I have my braking linearity or whatever it is, set so it's a straight line as I hate weird braking behaviour. Most open wheelers at least, you can get away with (once up to temperature) slamming the brakes on and lifting as you get into lower gears. If you find you've gone too far into a corner, pump the brake pedal to curve the braking zone and ensure you don't go off the track. I'm not actively racing at the moment so have no videos to showcase it but youtube has everything...
I seriously would not recommend weird braking set-ups by messing with anything other than absolute linearity as it'll just give you bad habits. Even something like the Formula Abarth which is extremely sensitive, I find it a lot easier to get used to when I know there's a linear braking input instead of 20-30% actually being 2% difference whilst 80-85% is a 10% input difference.
I'm sure someone who actually races in real life can correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure the ideal brake setup should be so that 100% input is too much for the car, allowing you more control over not just the pressure you put in but how you apply it, giving you more input into how the car is going to behave in a braking zone. If you hit 100% brakes and are able to hold it for more than a brief period of time then your brakes aren't good enough or the bias is set incorrectly and you will be slow. Of course this only counts for racing cars; any actual road cars would be set-up so ABS would account for your 100% brakes and be more forgiving with a gradual input if it's turned off... after all, road cars want to keep you safe above absolute performance.