AC Multiclass Audi TT/Mazda MX5@TT Assen, Wednesday 1st December 2021

[Douglas Aird]

@HF2000

Lol, these are what I am getting for Christmas.

 

[Dzul]

So, now we're showing shoes and gowns? Try guessing how old these are...

 

[HF2000]

@HF2000

Lol, these are what I am getting for Christmas. View attachment 523176

Nice!

 

[Douglas Aird]

So, now we're showing shoes and gowns? Try guessing how old these are...

View attachment 523178

They have seen a few miles. 20 years?

 

[Dzul]

They have seen a few miles. 20 years?

Close! Wear and tear from karting make them look older. Bought them at the Spyker mini-booth in a local fashion shop in R'dam 14 years ago.

 

[Kek700]

I find I can "nail" the throttle better with my race shoes.

 

[Dzul]

View attachment 523185

Perfect for magnetic pedals man!

 

[stigs2cousin]

I find I can "nail" the throttle better with my race shoes.

View attachment 523185

That would explain a thing or two

Envious Carsten

 

[RasmusP]

Sounds about right. But then there is a per car modifier in the force feedback in game app. I assume setting 150% multiplies the AC gain by 1.5. so it becomes 30Nm x .4 x .4 x 1.5

Correct!
Although it's just a number to compare settings with each other.
Ingame output ranges from 0-100%.
The thing is at 33% gain, everything is scaled down by 0.33, but if you drive against a tree, it might try to output 300%.
Normally gets clipped off, but now it's 300%*0.33 = 100% and therefore gets sent to you wheel driver at full linearity.
Aka breaking your wrist...
If the 33% gain feel like a normal car due to your powerful wheelbase,
sadly hitting a tree will now also feel like in reality

The wheel driver setting however is a maximum limit.
Putting a 30 Nm base to 33% = 10 Nm maximum.
No matter if the game tries to output more, it won't get to your hands.

Now I always say that the optimum setup is when you don't have any clipping while driving normally but things like big sausage kerb, collisions etc are being clipped off.

For most cars in ac, that's at around 60% gain. (100% per car gain).
Depending on the rim diameter, I like to use between 6-8 Nm max torque (not that my csw 2.5 would offer more.. But I never use it at 100%).

Now there is the discussion whether or not a DD at 10 Nm will still accelerate as swiftly as it does at 30 Nm and I never found an answer.
But most very knowledgeable guys say that most DD users are using basically "hyper reactive" settings with too low damping/inertia.
So I'd argue 10 Nm are really enough..

I can't hold 8 Nm without grippy gloves to be honest. The rim just slips.
With gloves and a rig, I guess 12 Nm would be the maximum before it stops being fun.

When Rasmus is faster than me with a game controller, sort of put it into perspective.
:-/

Me?
I can't drive ac with my Xbox controller at all.. And I wouldn't call a csw 2.5 + v3 pedals a game controller

 

[Kek700]

When we were testing at Imola ( I think ) you said you were driving on you hand controller, Jack and I could not match your time, I think you must have been pulling my leg you Rotter.

 

[RasmusP]

When we were testing at Imola ( I think ) you said you were driving on you hand controller, Jack and I could not match your time, I think you must have been pulling my leg you Rotter.

Aaahhh!
That was with mouse steering
But it's a bit like cheating... Throttle and brake is controlled with up/down arrow and has some automatic abs and tc.
And mouse steering is pretty precise and the wheel won't move across sausage kerbs, since there is no ffb.

Only issue is when you get into a drift.. Then you're lost

You did beat my time soon after though and I had to use my wheel+pedals to match it again