Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Sprint Interview and First Impressions

[Paul Jeffrey]

We talk to Niels Heusinkveld and try out the soon to be released Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Sprint.

Catching up with Niels Heusinkveld at the recent very busy Sim Racing Expo over in Germany, we took the opportunity to quiz the man behind Heusinkveld Engineering about his newly announced Sim Pedals Sprint set of high end sim racing pedals. With Niels in a buoyant mood following what appeared to be a largely very positive reception to the new hardware, we took the opportunity to question him about the features and improvements of the new gear, learning plenty about how some dramatic software features and production improvements have moved the product range on from the already very impressive offerings of HE Engineering.

Not content with merely taking Niels at his word, we also couldn't quite resist the chance to get strapped into the cockpit and have a go ourselves, recording a short but sweet talk and drive segment as we give our first impressions based on the limited time we had with these brand new set of pedals.

Frankly, I was very impressed, although it is exceptionally hard to gather any serious kind of feel with something like a high end set of pedals with such a short period of time behind the wheel... not helped any by a crowd of people watching on, and a camera and microphone in my face!

However, with that said I'm going to be lucky enough to take receipt of a review set of these pedals in the very near future, so please consider this more of a taster video, with a much more in depth and detailed look at the HE Sim Pedals Sprint set to appear on our various social media channels in the near future. So stay tuned, get subscribed and watch out for some new footage in the (hopefully) coming weeks...

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[White Hawk]

I think you are better off with the washers because they add support, save you from grinding on the pedals with the bolt head and you get a bit more thread depth into the T-nut. Washers aren't expensive. I got a mixed pack and I used some 6mm on the hand brake and 5mm on the pedals. I've used a number of 8mm as well.
I got this pack with a pile of different sizes for $9.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0776BX9PK

Yeah I was just looking on amazon for bolts and washers, I have 5mm t-nuts already and have the Sim Labs heel plate on order, not sure if it’ll all work out but see when it’s all here.

 

[White Hawk]

Thanks!
I hadn't installed the locking nut while I was trying different combinations of knobs and sticks and screwed the stick in too far. It shifts both ways now.

I added a tiny bit of this window glazing that is a great sealant, sticky and holds form into the slots where it fits together. It was a breeze to get the shifter back together. Everything stayed put, no rattles. I'm good to go now.
View attachment 303153

How is the shifter placed on the rig with the fanatec one there, photo?

 

[RCHeliguy]

The amount of T-nuts and bolts I've accumulated in the last couple months is scary.
I have a pile of 8mm, 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, bolts with various heads depending on the need, T-nuts, washers, nuts, lock nuts, in SS and metal oxide.

I've also gotten brackets and more 8020 so I can raise the pedals another 1.5" while still keeping my pedal deck with for/aft adjustability.

When I get my sequential shifter mounted I'll share.

 

[White Hawk]

The amount of T-nuts and bolts I've accumulated in the last couple months is scary.
I have a pile of 8mm, 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, bolts with various heads depending on the need, T-nuts, washers, nuts, lock nuts, in SS and metal oxide.

I've also gotten brackets and more 8020 so I can raise the pedals another 1.5" while still keeping my pedal deck with for/aft adjustability.

When I get my sequential shifter mounted I'll share.

Yeah, I’ve got a load of spare stuff as well just not sure I’ve got the right washers for that but I’ve been thinking of buying a set of stuff recently anyway, still no email from Demon Tweeks yet so hopefully I’ll be ok when they arrive.

 

[RCHeliguy]

This feels good. I don't have any interference reaching any of the controls and they all come to hand easily. I not sure how much the ergonomics could be improved.

Now I just need to removed the cabled for the Fanatec pedals to the wheelbase and the handbrake to the pedals, and run the new wires inside some sheathing and the mechanical part will be done for now.

I'm still planning to raise the pedals, but I may try to get everything working first.

Then I get to try out the pedal software and get the devices calibrated and reconfigured in my software.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The compact nature of this sequential shifter was a big selling point for me since I wanted both sequential an H-pattern shifters mounted at the same time. I had an idea how I wanted to mount it, but until I had it in my hands I didn't know how well it would fit. So color me happy with the result.

 

[manc0ntr0]

Good news for me, my package is at home!!!

 

[RCHeliguy]

Wired up and ready to go!
I went ahead and setup the maximum height of the pedal mount and I like it this height. That did add a shallow tilt forward. I may not add the height extension I was planning on.

The Heusinkveld controls each have a direct USB port on the computer. The 7 port USB 3.0 hub mounted to the rig has the CSW 2.5 wheel base, NLRv3 seat mover and DSD button box on it. Once I have everything setup, I'll see if I can get away with putting all the controls on the hub.

BTW you may or may not be surprised that the 40x40 tubes actually flex a little bit. I doubt it's something I could feel in game, but I still I may add a couple pieces of reinforcement across the underside of the pedal mount 8020 pieces. Maybe a couple pieces of 1/4" aluminum across the top on either side of the brake for good measure to box it in and make it more rigid.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Downloaded the pedal app. Calibrated the pedals and tried them out. The brake calibration read ~54 kg for where I wanted a max value and I guarantee I was pressing much harder than I ever did to max out the Fanatec CS 3.0 brake pedal. That pretty well agrees with what others have said. Their 90kg load cell does not take nearly that much to get to full. The Sprint's brake pressure is PLENTY! I felt like I was pressing as hard as I would ever want to press. It might not be what you need in a real race car, but it's absolutely plenty for sim racing.

I didn't change my curves and am currently playing purely linear. I would note that the instructions have suggestions for different profiles. For example throttle for driving in the rain or in an under powered car. You can create as many profiles as you want to adjust the curves for all three pedals.

In game my initial reaction is that it feels a LOT more realistic. It felt a little different at first as expected but a few minutes in and it was already starting to feel natural. Granted I was playing Dirt rally and was not using the brake much. So that is mostly the throttle and clutch with some brakes but no where approaching lockup. The hand brake felt good. DR only uses the hand brake as an on off switch, but it still felt a lot better.

Configuration in Dirt Rally was simple just reset the throttle, clutch, brake, hand brake and use the appropriate control and play. Easy peasy.

I haven't tried out the sequential shifter, but I doubt there is much to say about that. As long as it up shifts and down shifts it will be doing it's job. I'll test it on the track soon, but I'm going to be heading out soon and will probably need to continue over the weekend.

Enough pictures yet?

 

[EsxPaul]

Apologies for going slightly off on a tangent here but could do with some input from you guys with experience.

I've got a set of Sprints on order and want to make up my own pedal deck plate.

I'd rather cover the whole of my deck (520x350mm) and mount the pedals on top of the plate rather than having a smaller plate for heels only.


Do you think a 2mm thick SS plate would be strong enough not to flex when mounted on my 4040 extrusion? To me, it doesn't seem like there is a massive unbraced area to span but without having the material here in my hands but I can only guess at this point.

My other choice could be 3mm thick aluminium but I'm thinking that wouldn't give me much benefit over the 2mm SS in terms of flex.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The downside to mounting your sprints to a plate is that you won't be able to move them around easily ( ie. drilling new holes ) If you mount them to the 8020 you will be able to slide them sideways all you want.

Also these pedals are tall and the pivot point is raised so having a raised heel plate that you can offset with spacers has some utility as well.

If you are working with the material yourself, I would suggest thicker aluminum since aluminum is much easier to work with. You can basically use wood working tools. SS is much harder on drill bits and is harder to cut.

Personally I would go for thicker aluminum plate around 5-6 mm.

 

[EsxPaul]

Thanks Mark.

Lots like I'll need to give this a lot more thought before jumping in.

 

[Enzo Fazzi]

Apologies for going slightly off on a tangent here but could do with some input from you guys with experience.

I've got a set of Sprints on order and want to make up my own pedal deck plate.

I'd rather cover the whole of my deck (520x350mm) and mount the pedals on top of the plate rather than having a smaller plate for heels only.

View attachment 303238
Do you think a 2mm thick SS plate would be strong enough not to flex when mounted on my 4040 extrusion? To me, it doesn't seem like there is a massive unbraced area to span but without having the material here in my hands but I can only guess at this point.

My other choice could be 3mm thick aluminium but I'm thinking that wouldn't give me much benefit over the 2mm SS in terms of flex.

We recently upgraded the Sprint baseplate from 2mm aluminium to 3mm due to the 2mm plate having more flex than we wanted. So I'd recommend atleast 3mm aluminium.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm using 1/4" thick aluminum which is about 5-6mm.

I didn't like the exposed bolts, so I beveled the aluminum. I also flipped the brackets holding the transducer isolation connections raising the foot plate just a bit more. I didn't feel much of a difference but I like how this looks better. The foot plate is basically centered on the pedal pivot points.

FWIW my shoe size is 10 or 43 and the height is good with the pedal faces as they come in the top position. If my shoes were on the same level as the pedals, I'd probably flip the foot plates down.

BTW when I tried the pedals out this morning they didn't feel weird or too stiff. It's crazy how quickly you can get accustomed to something.

 

[Elaphe]

My baseplate will be a 19 mm MDF board, painted in dark grey and with a piece of alucobond (composite aluminium) on the front. The pedals will be screwed to the MDF board using bolts and nuts. The board will have longitudinal slots so as to be able to make quick distance adjustment if necessary, lossening the hand screws. I hope it works well when it's finished.

 

[anton_Chez]

I was certain I'd have to adjust the tension on the throttle when i got my Pro's, coming from V3's. It was so stiff in comparison that my leg was sore after some driving. I ended up leaving it and it's felt normal ever since.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I was certain I'd have to adjust the tension on the throttle when i got my Pro's, coming from V3's. It was so stiff in comparison that my leg was sore after some driving. I ended up leaving it and it's felt normal ever since.

I just came up for air and I'm loving the additional control I feel over the throttle and brake. It didn't take long before I started to get warm. I'm not worried about sore muscles. I'm still lifting weights 3 days a week.

I ended up moving my sequential shifter a bit closer to me once I actually started to use it. Now it feels nuts on. I was using it on the Audi in Dirt Rally and it felt really good after just a little transition since I've only used H-pattern in Dirt Rally. So far so good. I'm liking all the controls well. I'm having to relearn a bit, but my times are getting close to where they were.

I also needed to move my pedals further away, now that they are bit higher they felt too close.

I spent a little time with the McLaren GT3 wheel in an appropriate car and got to really see how the brakes feel and I can feel a pretty substantial difference. I can easily hit the brakes without worry of locking up and have to apply real pressure which is definitely easier to modulate at higher pressures.

To quote Blazing Saddles. "It's twuuu, it's really twuuu!"

Question: I'm pulling towards me to upshift and pushing away to downshift. Is that typical for sequential shifters in real life. It just felt more natural since I'm frequently on the brakes when I'm downshifting and it feels like a similar action.

 

[Elaphe]

You are right: push to downshift, pull to upshift. Maybe this has to with the fact that downshifts often happen while braking. Inertia when braking is strong and moves you forward, so it's easy to push the lever in those circumstances. If you like that kind of gear change, you should try to push-pull dual action fixed and enlarged paddle shift from Ascher Racing. It's the preferred method nowadays in WRC and I understand why: it's more comfortable, quicker and easier than releasing your hand from the rim to grab the shifter lever. It's the only shifting mechanism I have in my rig and I love it.

 

[feher_90]

I decided to listen to @RCHeliguy and give him some more opportunity before modifying the brake with other springs.

I have to say that I may have become used to them, or it may have softened a bit with the use, but right now I feel comfortable with them in the M + XL position.

It has been difficult for me to get used to it, I have had to adjust the position of the three pedals several times, both in inclination and in travel, but now it is easier for me to modulate the braking, definitely, they feel better than my old v3 in all aspects.

Finally I decided to leave them in 20kg of pressure, I am not a person who likes to brake with the left foot so I understand that some people who use it, have it at a higher value.

I was doing some tests and effectively, the left foot is used to exert more force on the clutch, so when you step on the brake, you always exert more pressure, just like when someone drives for the first time an automatic car and gets confused, wants step on the clutch but step on the brake and brake too much.

For the moment I will continue for a while, although I do not rule out trying a spring a few millimeters longer.

Great job Heusinkved!

 

[RCHeliguy]

Other than tightening the hand brake tension to remove the slack, I've still not changed anything on any of the controls yet.

I'll likely tweak my pedals for easier heel & toe action, and I was surprised that my clutch almost felt light this morning after my initial thought that it felt firm.

I'm going to give a week as is before I consider any changes. Right now nothing seems like it needs adjusting.

My wife and I just completed our first decent sized hike of the season today and my legs are going to be mush for a little while so I put my rig away.

Space Junkies(VR only) is on sale 60% off for a few days. So I'm going to try it out. I know a few guys from Eve Valkyrie who said it was pretty fun.