Medilloni
Premium
Thanks guys, have just done it with Steam's handy toolI've moved ac onto my ssd and back again in the last few weeks and didn't have to do anything with CM. It automatically adjusts the folders
AC GTE / GT2 @ Okayama International Circuit - Weds 8th July 2020
- Thread starter Medilloni
- Start date
Assetto Corsa Racing Club event
Medilloni
Premium
All done Scott, huge thanks for your helpI just noticed there is another setting in CM
'settings / content manager / general' has the actual location of AC. You might need to check if that automatically updates after you move it
Got a bit of a shock though, the 120gb ssd (which says 111gb??) is looking a bit full just with AC - Steam said it moved 54gb yikes!
Yeah, games are getting stupidly big these days* and my own AC folder is now at 60 GB (mods do make up a pretty big chunk of that though).All done Scott, huge thanks for your help
Got a bit of a shock though, the 120gb ssd (which says 111gb??) is looking a bit full just with AC - Steam said it moved 54gb yikes!
Also, it says 111GB because of binary vs. decimal.
Basically, a long long time ago HDDs used to be defined in terms of binary megabytes, i.e. 2^20 bytes or 1048576, just like for RAM. Then the manufacturers realised that they could save a few percent by calling a disk 500 MB if it had 500 million bytes, rather than (500*2^20 =) 528 million bytes... It's more like a 7% effect when you compare gigabytes (and 10% for terabytes!).
Windows on the other hand still shows disk sizes in "binary gigabytes", so a disk with 100 billion bytes will only show up as 93 GB (sometimes written as 93 GiB but I'm not fond of that version myself).
I think the only reason that RAM manufacturers didn't play the same naff trick is likely that RAM is generally arranged in sizes that are naturally a power of 2... (So the naff trick would have involved them relabelling a 64 MB stick of RAM as a 67 MB stick - not gonna fool anyone?
)*I fondly remember when a bloody good game fitted into 48 kB on my ZX Spectrum
My trusty BBC B had 32kB, 10 of which was usually dedicated to video. Still managed to run the first racing sim I ever played https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revs_(video_game)*I fondly remember when a bloody good game fitted into 48 kB on my ZX Spectrum
Hi, I've found an online Romanian League that is sponsored by BMW and they use the BMW M3 GT2 with a fixed setup. There are some qualifications rounds, and 2 major leagues: Pro and Semi-Pro. I did qualify for the today's semi-pro race, and I did kinda Ok in the first race, without the last corner mistake, I would have been 11. now I am 13 2nd race wasn't so great.
They use fixed setups, so I can change only TC and br bias. Still, I would like to ask you for some tips and tricks for the BMW:
1. When to shift? I feel like 8500+ is good, but I saw some changing at 8400. Which is better?
2. I used TC3 (so almost all of it). Do you think the car wants less TC? should I try to use less? felt a little bit sketchy with 4 and 5.
3. I used 62 brake bias. It felt good. It's not a car that like to turn on it's own, like the Audi R8 GT3,right?It feels more understery, maybe the setup also? Does it like to turn itself or I should drive it like a boat?)
4. Something that I was being absolutely destroyed where the braking zones. THe fast guys where braking with full force without locking up. I had to press like 80% of the time after intial push just not to lock up. Is there a trick with this car? Is there something that I don't know so that I should brake 100% for longer? Remember, there is a fixed setup, so they don't have less brake pressure. Do I just need to practice more?
5. Does the car like to have slower RMP or should I constantly rev it? Sometimes it feels like I need to have high second, and then, in the same corner, the delta skyrocket if I have low 3rds. then next lap is kinda the same in 2nd. I don't really know what is liking and not.
Saw some guys changing into 4th for very short periods of time, just to go into 3rd and then in the next corner just take the corner in 4th with mid rpms.
6. Any other tips? Points on how to control the BMW better?
Thanks a lot for the answers.
2nd race wasn't so great.They use fixed setups, so I can change only TC and br bias. Still, I would like to ask you for some tips and tricks for the BMW:
1. When to shift? I feel like 8500+ is good, but I saw some changing at 8400. Which is better?
2. I used TC3 (so almost all of it). Do you think the car wants less TC? should I try to use less? felt a little bit sketchy with 4 and 5.
3. I used 62 brake bias. It felt good. It's not a car that like to turn on it's own, like the Audi R8 GT3,right?It feels more understery, maybe the setup also? Does it like to turn itself or I should drive it like a boat?
)4. Something that I was being absolutely destroyed where the braking zones. THe fast guys where braking with full force without locking up. I had to press like 80% of the time after intial push just not to lock up. Is there a trick with this car? Is there something that I don't know so that I should brake 100% for longer? Remember, there is a fixed setup, so they don't have less brake pressure. Do I just need to practice more?
5. Does the car like to have slower RMP or should I constantly rev it? Sometimes it feels like I need to have high second, and then, in the same corner, the delta skyrocket if I have low 3rds. then next lap is kinda the same in 2nd. I don't really know what is liking and not.
Saw some guys changing into 4th for very short periods of time, just to go into 3rd and then in the next corner just take the corner in 4th with mid rpms.
6. Any other tips? Points on how to control the BMW better?
Thanks a lot for the answers.
Looking at power/torque, around 8500 is fine. Depending on gear I shift between 8400 to 8600 or so.
I use almost no TC when in the BMW because the traction already isn't fantastic, so I like to extract the max out of it myself.
3. I used 62 brake bias. It felt good. It's not a car that like to turn on it's own, like the Audi R8 GT3,right?It feels more understery, maybe the setup also? Does it like to turn itself or I should drive it like a boat?
Compared to the Corvette I actually find the BMW a lot more compliant in turns, although it can't be taken at such a high speed as (say) the Porsche.
Locking up can also be affected significantly by brake bias, not just brake pressure. If you have a reasonable brake bias, you should be able to hit 100% and ease off the brake without issue.
A general tip is to look at the power/torque curve
After that, it's mostly personal preference.Sometimes changing gear is not about RPM, but about changing the balance of the car. For example, a downshift can help transfer weight to the front under braking more than through braking alone.
I'm certainly not an expert on the M3 but have won with it a few times at RD. My overall suggestion is to drive it smoothly, it doesn't like to be overdriven.
I see. Thank you for the tips. on short: practice moreLooking at power/torque, around 8500 is fine. Depending on gear I shift between 8400 to 8600 or so.
I use almost no TC when in the BMW because the traction already isn't fantastic, so I like to extract the max out of it myself.
Compared to the Corvette I actually find the BMW a lot more compliant in turns, although it can't be taken at such a high speed as (say) the Porsche.
Locking up can also be affected significantly by brake bias, not just brake pressure. If you have a reasonable brake bias, you should be able to hit 100% and ease off the brake without issue.
A general tip is to look at the power/torque curve
Sometimes changing gear is not about RPM, but about changing the balance of the car. For example, a downshift can help transfer weight to the front under braking more than through braking alone.
I'm certainly not an expert on the M3 but have won with it a few times at RD. My overall suggestion is to drive it smoothly, it doesn't like to be overdriven.
)The braking without ABS (as the BMW m3 gt2 doesn't have it) is my biggest problem. It's fine while I am in 6th and 5th gear, but as soon I drop in 3th (sometimes even 4th) I get instant lock-up so I have to brake with less push to be able to trail brake and not lock up. But in replays I see the fast guys ( that are more than 1.5s faster), going full force until they start to turn. I can't do that. If it's just more practice, I'll do it. If there are settings to be made, I just wanted to see if there are
Are you watching the replay in AC or replay of a stream? Only asking because I noticed that whilst AC seems to report the brake correctly for the person that saved it, for all others it's either 0% or 100%...
OMG ... So I have this reply from a guy for the second race.
Race 1 - My replay. I brake like 80%, they all "look" like braking 100%, even this guy.
Race 2 - His replay. He is braking like 85-90, but not full. I am braking in his recording like full brake all the time, which most certainly I wasn't.
So, I have to improve my braking, but not that much as I thought?
)OMG ... So I have this reply from a guy for the second race.
Race 1 - My replay. I brake like 80%, they all "look" like braking 100%, even this guy.
Race 2 - His replay. He is braking like 85-90, but not full. I am braking in his recording like full brake all the time, which most certainly I wasn't.
So, I have to improve my braking, but not that much as I thought?
Yeah, I have no idea why braking is binary for others in replays when throttle isn't. Maybe it's because throttle could theoretically be used for heuristic cheat detection (which doesn't exist in AC, but maybe was considered at some point), but granular brake information is less important, and they wanted to reduce how much is sent over the wire? Who knows.
Kek700
Premium
Gearing can be a strange one to get right.
if you do not change a gear and it is at the end of its revs, you are supplying very little torque but maximum engine power and the cars “momentum”.
if say, you do not loose much speed in a corner and accelerate in the same gear, you have a noticeable loss of torque and an engine that gives you near maximum power but the car has no “momentum”.
So if my corner entry is at high rpm in 3rd and not much speed is lost in the corner phase, rather than accelerate out of the corner in 3rd gear I will change into to 4th. This allows the torque to drive me out of the corner. Remember in the middle corner phase you have no acceleration, no speed change, so when using 3rd gear you have a 1000rpm to use that has power but low torque to now re accelerate you out of the corner. ( This is all relative to sequential shifting close ratio racing transmissions)
The above is to try and explain the difference between torque, power, gearing and the acceleration left in the car.
Very badly I am sure too.
Every car is completely different, the correct approach for one car is completely wrong for another.
The BMW gives you the opportunity to spread the gears neatly in 20mph increments, if I can remember the torque falls away quickly and the engine makes power nearly to it’s peak revs. If you spread the gears properly you should not be locking up on the down shift, I understand that it may occur for some special reason if you over spread the gears ratio's.
The next up gear is always going to give you less torque, you can usually always go quicker by running peak rpm. ( especially with close ratio gears ) but that only applies if you have the cars momentum in the mix.
The first thing I always do is look at peak power and peak torque and peak rpm to see how they correlate with one and another.
You really have to go laboriously through the calculations for the ratios to see were the max acceleration ( torque ) can be achieved. Too much trouble for someone who is in a fiat 500 one day and a group C the next.
As I said the GT2 class is kind to you in that you can make many gear and diff adjustments.
[I have always wondered if you use a lower diff ratio, and a set of gears to give the required mph increments as opposed to a higher diff ratio and gears to give the equivalent mph. Do you have more acceleration.]
If you look at my BMW I was just reaching peek rpm at the end of the back straight, so was Chris in the Porsche.
I am of the opinion that acceleration from one gear to the next gives the car a sling shot, constantly going from peak power to high torque as you select the next gear.
I select TC to give me the soonest application of full throttle without upsetting the car.
One mans 3 is another mans 1.
If I loose 2/10ths a Lap on TC at 1 instead of TC at 4, ( and I do ), but do not spin due to being caught out by power oversteer in a race, that to me is a good compromise.
Braking for me is problematic , I cannot feel my feet very well, I run with reduced power in the brakes , say 95%, I think, If I was to run the GT2 BMW full time without ABS, I would suggest running the car to max rpm in third gear and do a brake test, note the distance, keep adjusting the brake bias and pressure to give the best results. But always be aware of that corners with a bumpy or cambered approach if you are heavily trail braking into that corner it can lock the rear wheel and sends you spinning, I always factor in a safety margin.
These are just my humble ramblings. This is not a difficult subject but one that I could write sheets of text to ensure I had covered all the variables, which is not really practical here.
if you do not change a gear and it is at the end of its revs, you are supplying very little torque but maximum engine power and the cars “momentum”.
if say, you do not loose much speed in a corner and accelerate in the same gear, you have a noticeable loss of torque and an engine that gives you near maximum power but the car has no “momentum”.
So if my corner entry is at high rpm in 3rd and not much speed is lost in the corner phase, rather than accelerate out of the corner in 3rd gear I will change into to 4th. This allows the torque to drive me out of the corner. Remember in the middle corner phase you have no acceleration, no speed change, so when using 3rd gear you have a 1000rpm to use that has power but low torque to now re accelerate you out of the corner. ( This is all relative to sequential shifting close ratio racing transmissions)
The above is to try and explain the difference between torque, power, gearing and the acceleration left in the car.
Very badly I am sure too.
Every car is completely different, the correct approach for one car is completely wrong for another.
The BMW gives you the opportunity to spread the gears neatly in 20mph increments, if I can remember the torque falls away quickly and the engine makes power nearly to it’s peak revs. If you spread the gears properly you should not be locking up on the down shift, I understand that it may occur for some special reason if you over spread the gears ratio's.
The next up gear is always going to give you less torque, you can usually always go quicker by running peak rpm. ( especially with close ratio gears ) but that only applies if you have the cars momentum in the mix.
The first thing I always do is look at peak power and peak torque and peak rpm to see how they correlate with one and another.
You really have to go laboriously through the calculations for the ratios to see were the max acceleration ( torque ) can be achieved. Too much trouble for someone who is in a fiat 500 one day and a group C the next.
As I said the GT2 class is kind to you in that you can make many gear and diff adjustments.
[I have always wondered if you use a lower diff ratio, and a set of gears to give the required mph increments as opposed to a higher diff ratio and gears to give the equivalent mph. Do you have more acceleration.]
If you look at my BMW I was just reaching peek rpm at the end of the back straight, so was Chris in the Porsche.
I am of the opinion that acceleration from one gear to the next gives the car a sling shot, constantly going from peak power to high torque as you select the next gear.
I select TC to give me the soonest application of full throttle without upsetting the car.
One mans 3 is another mans 1.
If I loose 2/10ths a Lap on TC at 1 instead of TC at 4, ( and I do ), but do not spin due to being caught out by power oversteer in a race, that to me is a good compromise.
Braking for me is problematic , I cannot feel my feet very well, I run with reduced power in the brakes , say 95%, I think, If I was to run the GT2 BMW full time without ABS, I would suggest running the car to max rpm in third gear and do a brake test, note the distance, keep adjusting the brake bias and pressure to give the best results. But always be aware of that corners with a bumpy or cambered approach if you are heavily trail braking into that corner it can lock the rear wheel and sends you spinning, I always factor in a safety margin.
These are just my humble ramblings. This is not a difficult subject but one that I could write sheets of text to ensure I had covered all the variables, which is not really practical here.
Last edited:
very nice explained. this will help[ me with other cars, for sure.Gearing can be a strange one to get right.
if you do not change a gear and it is at the end of its revs, you are supplying very little torque but maximum engine power and the cars “momentum”.
if say, you do not loose much speed in a corner and accelerate in the same gear, you have a noticeable loss of torque and an engine that gives you near maximum power but the car has no “momentum”.
So if my corner entry is at high rpm in 3rd and not much speed is lost in the corner phase, rather than accelerate out of the corner in 3rd gear I will change into to 4th. This allows the torque to drive me out of the corner. Remember in the middle corner phase you have no acceleration, no speed change, so when using 3rd gear you have a 1000rpm to use that has power but low torque to now re accelerate you out of the corner. ( This is all relative to sequential shifting close ratio racing transmissions)
The above is to try and explain the difference between torque, power, gearing and the acceleration left in the car.
Very badly I am sure too.
Every car is completely different, the correct approach for one car is completely wrong for another.
The BMW gives you the opportunity to spread the gears neatly in 20mph increments, if I can remember the torque falls away quickly and the engine makes power nearly to it’s peak revs. If you spread the gears properly you should not be locking up on the down shift, I understand that it may occur for some special reason if you over spread the gears ratio's.
The next up gear is always going to give you less torque, you can usually always go quicker by running peak rpm. ( especially with close ratio gears ) but that only applies if you have the cars momentum in the mix.
The first thing I always do is look at peak power and peak torque and peak rpm to see how they correlate with one and another.
You really have to go laboriously through the calculations for the ratios to see were the max acceleration ( torque ) can be achieved. Too much trouble for someone who is in a fiat 500 one day and a group C the next.
As I said the GT2 class is kind to you in that you can make many gear and diff adjustments.
[I have always wondered if you use a lower diff ratio, and a set of gears to give the required mph increments as opposed to a higher diff ratio and gears to give the equivalent mph. Do you have more acceleration.]
If you look at my BMW I was just reaching peek rpm at the end of the back straight, so was Chris in the Porsche.
I am of the opinion that acceleration from one gear to the next gives the car a sling shot, constantly going from peak power to high torque as you select the next gear.
I select TC to give me the soonest application of full throttle without upsetting the car.
One mans 3 is another mans 1.
If I loose 2/10ths a Lap on TC at 1 instead of TC at 4, ( and I do ), but do not spin due to being caught out by power oversteer in a race, that to me is a good compromise.
Braking for me is problematic , I cannot feel my feet very well, I run with reduced power in the brakes , say 95%, I think, If I was to run the GT2 BMW full time without ABS, I would suggest running the car to max rpm in third gear and do a brake test, note the distance, keep adjusting the brake bias and pressure to give the best results. But always be aware of that corners with a bumpy or cambered approach if you are heavily trail braking into that corner it can lock the rear wheel and sends you spinning, I always factor in a safety margin.
These are just my humble ramblings. This is not a difficult subject but one that I could write sheets of text to ensure I had covered all the variables, which is not really practical here.
but in this particular case of championship, the setup is fixed
). I can only change tc and br bias and only while I am in the cockpit
Kek700
Premium
Thanks for the response. @Raresch
That makes me think, that is were the only advantage is then, you really will have
to learn how to modulate the brake pedal and more importantly “when”.
The BMW produces a fair amount of down force even at a 100mph so you can hammer the brakes above this point
50mph = 85kg
80mph = 220
100mph = 370kg You can apply max brakes here, fronts lock at 75mph *****
120mph = 520kg
150mph = 820kg
175mph = 1150kg
all done on coldish softs :-
******
if you make the brake bias 60% , this is modified Completely, the wheels both lock at 65mph
At 100mph this will save you 2 meters.
if you are doing 130mph,, brake bias at 60% , it’s flat floor for the brake pedal when the speed is at 65mph feather back on the brake and sense lock up.
I managed it and I have no sense of feel in my feet, so it is perfectly feasible with a lot of practice. The problem you have is removing brake power on a car that heavily relies on its brakes for performance.
It means you loose braking above 65mph to get an advantage below
from 130mph without ABS I managed a reasonable attempt with 107meters
only locking in the last 5 meters
With ABS on 130mph I managed 95 meters. Food for thought.
More food for thought, with brake power at 90% this certainly helped eliminate lock up in fact able to stop with no lock, braking distance now 112meters.
Make what you will of the above, the only limiting factor is me, apart from the ABS applied test.
That makes me think, that is were the only advantage is then, you really will have
to learn how to modulate the brake pedal and more importantly “when”.
The BMW produces a fair amount of down force even at a 100mph so you can hammer the brakes above this point
50mph = 85kg
80mph = 220
100mph = 370kg You can apply max brakes here, fronts lock at 75mph *****
120mph = 520kg
150mph = 820kg
175mph = 1150kg
all done on coldish softs :-
******
if you make the brake bias 60% , this is modified Completely, the wheels both lock at 65mph
At 100mph this will save you 2 meters.
if you are doing 130mph,, brake bias at 60% , it’s flat floor for the brake pedal when the speed is at 65mph feather back on the brake and sense lock up.
I managed it and I have no sense of feel in my feet, so it is perfectly feasible with a lot of practice. The problem you have is removing brake power on a car that heavily relies on its brakes for performance.
It means you loose braking above 65mph to get an advantage below
from 130mph without ABS I managed a reasonable attempt with 107meters
only locking in the last 5 meters
With ABS on 130mph I managed 95 meters. Food for thought.
More food for thought, with brake power at 90% this certainly helped eliminate lock up in fact able to stop with no lock, braking distance now 112meters.
Make what you will of the above, the only limiting factor is me, apart from the ABS applied test.
I see. The ABS is set to factory, and the M3 GT2 spec has nos abs, so I will not do that.
But I will the braking testing an see what I end up with. I have to just practice more and more. Thanks for the detailed responses.
Hi,
I'm playing with Hp Reverb too, but something what I noticed is: The texture filtering of AC is not great. For example, the dashboard numbers is a "texture" and the filtering is treating this texture giving an "blurred" effect.. definitly is not sharpen. And everything around what is 3D shapes are pretty sharpen and clear... only textures are f*** ...
I tried to use the Nvidia anistropic filtering in multiple ways, but the problem continues...
What worked is to put SuperSampling over the SteamVr... something around 130%.. (my gpu use goes to 97%) but everything gets beautiful...
Is anybody knows somehow to treat the textures to solve this problem without using Negative Lod bias or supersampling?
forcing 16x AF in nvcp, negative lod = clamp and supersampling are all you can do really.
