Get FFB similar to Assetto Corsa?

Lars Rystedt · Apr 18, 2017

Hi!

Before I began play AC I thought R3E FFB was fantastic and RF2 utterly crap but now I am not so sure anymore.
I have a G920 and for almost every car I've turned down the FFB but I still feel that the wheel is stiff and loosing out on effects. This is particularly noticable when I loose grip during understeer, in AC I can feel when getting closer to loose while in R3E it's mostly a screach from the tires when it's already to late.. And that's about it, theres no real sensation when or why I loose grip; it just happened a split second ago and now it's to late.

I would like the ease of steering while still feel the road as in AC but the FFB settings in R3E is giving me nightmares, most probably because I don't understand what every option do or how the affect each other.

So if any have a simple solution and instruction how and what to change, I would appreciate it a lot.

Brandon Wright · Apr 19, 2017

RasmusP said:
Maybe you could explain what the steering lock exactly is? I never felt the need to change anything in that section...

Honestly I'm not exactly sure, but it affects how sensitive the steering is. If you increase it you will need less steering input and if you decrease it you will need more steering input. It's the easiest/quickest way to adjust how the steering responds, I pretty much never turn it up but I do occasionally turn it down a bit on cars that feel too twitchy.

Case_ · Apr 19, 2017

Steering lock setting AFAIK should mean the angle your front wheels are at when your steering wheel is at full lock. So if the car has steering lock at 15, that means your front wheels can only turn 15 degrees in each direction, so 30 degrees of range. If you increase it to 20, you get 40 degrees of range. And so on.

Wheel range, on the other hand, just means how much do you have to turn the steering wheel to get from full lock to full lock.

So basically, if you think of the steering wheel rotation in computer terms, changing steering lock changes the "resolution" of the controller axis while not changing the maximum values you can receive, and changing the wheel range changes the maximum reachable values of the data, but doesn't change the resolution.

RasmusP · Apr 19, 2017

Yeah you are right.
To make that clear: I tried it out and did a video of that. Time to get things easy to understand!

Here is the link! VIDEO [The visual wheel was synchronous with my G27 all the time]

Here is a little explanation about what I was talking before:

- you have the VISUAL-Wheel settings which look like that:

here you have to set "as in car-setup" or something like that in english. If you change this, your real wheel get's asynchronous to the visual wheel! Don't change it or your OCD kicks in

and yes, this setting does NOT influence your steering experience, just visual. BUT it's nice to have it to monitor the differences if you change the CAR SETUP

- you have the CAR-SETUP (and yes, it is confusing with the sub menus...) THIS one you can only adjust while in the box, not while you are on the Track!
It looks like that:

Little explanation to the car setup:
- the "wheel range" (Lenkwinkel) has a big impact! it's how much you can turn your wheel. But if you put it on 180° for example your maximum TYRE-ANGLE gets pressed into the 180° and the car is twitchy as hell! Well you definitely don't have to turn the wheel much haha...
lower wheel range = more sensitive, higher wheel range = less sensitive

- the "steering lock" (Lenkeinschlag) is how much the TYRES can be turned. So lowering this has the exact opposite as the "wheel range" setting! Lower lock = less sensitive, higher lock = more sensitive (well if you put that too low you will have problems in tight turns because your tyres can't reach the corne-angle)

I hope everything is clear now. For me it finally is

Case_ · Apr 19, 2017

BTW I just posted my recording of yesterday's race at Nürburgring in the appropriate thread, so when it comes to the shoulder wrenching, you can check how much of a wheel rotation I use. I'm running my wheel at 900 degrees and the Audi is at default wheel rotation with only the steering lock cranked up to 20 to make T1 a bit easier to manage.

Lars Rystedt · Apr 20, 2017

I did some testing last night but I am not sure I really came to something remotely useful. And I admit i left it in a bit half assed state as I was to tired to continue.
Just sat my butt down and wanted to do some more tests but the S3 site is down for maintenance so I'll just share some of the things I can pull out of my head right now.

I haven't changed the Corvette's wheel rotation but upped the wheel lock to it's maximum which was 20. It felt better but still have shoulder popping issues, this might be less obvious with wheel with a larger diameter; but this is just speculation on my part. I have no other wheel to compare it with, the old faithful Microsoft Sidewinder I had 15 years ago is lost never to be found again... thankfully.
I watched your recording and we might have the same rotation for most bends, but after a rotation of 90 degrees
my shoulder issues begins. Some of it is absolutely physical on my part so I adjust the seat and the wheelbase so I won't sit to much leaned back, though is more comfortable, and arms/elbows not to much stretched out (75-85ish degrees).

I can now feel some but not very much and not consistently chugging at the wheel in corners. Not good enough but atleast something. Still have the issue that there is no sensation of loosing grip or getting it back.
Still nothing is felt when I brake hard, car is slowing down or loosing without any difference in detail. So I cant tell other by noice if tires are locked.

I'm sure it was better in the past because if it wasn't I wouldn't have continued driving R3E.

I would like to have atleast a little bit of the front diving while braking, and more so if braking hard. What setting do I need to look at?

Case_ · Apr 20, 2017

Losing grip - probably mostly understeer effect and slip effect, perhaps lateral forces to an extent as well.
Braking hard and slowing down - probably mostly slip effect and vertical forces.

Just my guesses, though. These are what I'd be looking into.

R3E doesn't communicate as much about losing grip in the back as AC does, IMO. I feel like losing the rear is mostly communicated visually and aurally in R3E, in which setting the proper FOV/seating position and audio balance plays a big part.

BTW, there's also one thing I've had fairly good success with in different games when trying to finetune the FFB to my liking - just dial everything down to zero, then only set one force up and test it to see what that setting does and how does it feel. Go through every single option like that, and only when you have an idea of what each of the settings does try to create and finetune an overall "mix" of forces. A bit time consuming (thankfully we can tweak FFB while in the game with R3E), but usually well worth it (for me, at least).