This seems like the perfect thread to ask my question since many of you it seems went from a CSW v2.5 to a DD wheel of some kind, Fanatec or not (and sorry for the long-winded breakdown):
When you used your CSW v2.5, did you ever use it for extended periods with drift mode (DRI) set to 0...I mean really spend time tweaking it and the sim together, to where you're getting good amounts of force without clipping (obviously not higher DD levels of torque), but with minimal or no oscillation? I ask this because I'm wondering if it's really that mind-blowing of a difference in feel going from a well-calibrated CSW v2.5 with Drift mode 0 to a DD wheel. Direct Drive reaction speed, as Chris Haye and others mentioned, might be another story, but maybe it relates...not sure.
I'm in the market for a DD wheel (my heart is set right now on the upcoming VRS DirectForce Pro, based on the price and the feedback from those who have prototypes), so I'm not anti-DD wheel at all...but it's a question I can't escape, before dropping that kind of cash...especially if they lowered the strength to CSW comparable levels and was still blown away ("night and day difference in feel"). Better yet: someone who tamed the CSW and then tried a friend's DD wheel and was still blown away...as this might have less of a confirmation bias than those who bought a DD wheel (I'm not accusing anyone of not being objective; but confirmation bias is a real thing that can happen to the best of us). Also, I can't try out a DD wheel anywhere, as I live nowhere close to the sim-racing tech mecha that is Europe...heck it's quite possible I'm the only sim racer in this small country lol.
I'm mainly asking this because pretty much everyone that I've asked how they have/had their CSW setup before the switch, they'd say DRI was anywhere from -5 to -2 (with the occasional person saying -1), but I've never heard anyone say they gave drift mode 0 a fair shake to tune out the oscillation. Most give up, saying either it's too violent, or it feels too light overall.
For non-Fanatec users: drift mode -5 to -1 means that there was a constant amount of damper (weight/heaviness/resistance) on the wheel no matter what (whether a game is loaded or not), with -5 being the heaviest, -1 being the lightest. Please note this dampening is always there in addition to any dampening the sim implements, so combined the wheel gets even heavier when gaming. DRI set to +1 to +5 accelerates the wheel...the motor helps you move the wheel faster from lock to lock, thus the "drift" name.
However, Drift mode set to 0 attempts to get much closer to a direct drive feeling by removing this constant artificial damper completely...the difference in feel between drift mode -2 (much less -3 to -5) and drift mode 0 is very noticable, the wheel has nearly zero natural resistance...but most people don't use it because of the violent oscillations or the always light feel, which from my experience occurs due to these 3 things:
1) Either FFB gain, FFB low force boost (both in-game settings) and/or FFB strength on the Fanatec is set too high.
2) Anti-oscillation settings in-game (that were designed for DD wheels) weren't activated.
3) Damper setting in Fanatec setup was set to 0.
For #3, I attribute that to a learned habit from Logitech G27 days (at least from my journey)...where the common advice I'd see everywhere, to get the most detail out of G25 and G27 wheels, was to set overall strength to 100 - 107%, with Spring and Damper set to 0%. This was done because G27 had inherent dampening due to its design, so adding more would reduce detail quite a bit. However, with the Fanatec damper set at 0 (not to be confused with the "always on" Drift mode damper), the game can't apply any anti-oscillation techniques (usually a speed sensitive damper) when needed, so most people's experience with DRI 0 is an oscillating nightmare...in fact the game can't apply any dampening at all when setup like this...especially not in a dynamic way when it actually matters, thus the always light feeling that turns many off from Drift mode 0.
I set out awhile back to reduce the oscillation to near zero and still retain strong detailed forces and I've achieved it in nearly every sim (I have them all). It's at the point where I can feel more detail, can feel the wheel getting lighter much easier, because now there's a broader range between a heavy wheel and a light wheel...plus it wants to self-align much faster, making catching slides easier (of course, this idiot behind the wheel can't catch them all
, but success rate definitely went up immensely). The settings vary depending on the actual wheel rim you use (Formula wheels need less FFB, heavier round rims like the Porsche 918 need more), but it's achievable. These are all traits I hear people use to describe the benefits of a DD wheel (especially the catching slides bit)...so I'm wondering how much is the jump worth it.