UPDATE: I've gotten the wheel and peds recognized now by most of my sims. (I still have to work on a few, namely WRC8 and PC2.) FWIW, I've been keeping the wheel in G-GUB compatibility mode and using the default profile.
Now, onto the in-game "tweaking". (I'll ask my questions regarding that in another thread.)
Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply. I've been doing a PC rebuild after an upgrade and am still setting things up again. I'll post some settings as I get things installed again. So glad you got it going.
Two questions spring to mind.....Is there a reason you are you using compatibility mode? Aside from allowing the LED's to work in more games, all it really does is reduce the feature set on the wheel. I accept it could make setup easier in game as you can just select a preset profile but these generally work fine in Pro mode as well (with a bit of fine tuning), or you can just create a new controller profile in game. So far i haven't come across a game that didn't work just fine in Pro (aside from the LED's).
Second question, why just stick with the default profile? I understand the one size fits all approach but one of the great things about g hub is that you can have different settings per game. You can then tweak these on the fly using the wheel mid game and have the changes saved back to the profile. It's a really neat feature.
That said, in terms of wheel base settings, i typically end up with things in this ballpark:
Mode: Pro
Sensitivity:50
Strength: Between 6 and 8 (generally closer to 6
)
Angle: 900 for most games, 540 for rally
Damper: 5-20 Just kind on depends how much native resistance there is in the sim. Some have almost none, some have quite a bit
Filter: 2-8 This is like a smoothing algorithm, it makes differences between small and large forces more progressive. Increasing this makes the car feel like it's got softer suspension. A little is good for realism. too much will reduce detail. It's a fun one to mess around with.
Trueforce: I leave at default. Not supported by that many sims so haven't experimented much.
In terms of in game settings, I only have AC properly setup just now. I'll post settings later and then for the other sims as i re-install them.
As a general rule, I like to leave any in game overall strength setting at 100% and make strength changes at the hardware level via g-hub or the wheelbase. This is because I find some sims don't scale all the forces equally and things can get really out of whack if you say set the wheel to 10nm then the in game strength to 40%. Better to leave the game close to 100 and change the wheel to suit. In AC's case you can tweak strength on a per car basis using the CSP FF in game app. This is super nice.
Any game self centering needs to be as close to 0 as you can manage. Some sims benefit from a small amount say 10% but on the whole this is an artifical force that is not usualy needed on modern titles that use suspension based ff.
Damping is personal prefence just play around and see what feels good. I generally find a little is good especially on DD wheels that have little natural friction. Too much makes the input sluggish. This scales with whatever setting you have on the wheelbase too, although in game dampening can sometimes give a different feel to hardware dampening so worth playing around as dialing one up and the other down can give better results.
Any low forces boost leave disabled. Not necessary on DD
Any reference to road noise/kerbs/ABS/Slip/fx etc are usualy canned forces and personal preferece. Many people will tell you just to set them all at zero and technically that is correct as if you have everything dialled in right you don't need them but not all sims have that level of detail. In that case I usually run small amounts (sub 20%) and set some filtering on the wheel base which blends them nicely with the 'real' forces. It can really help bring life to the wheel sometimes.
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