Absolutely fantastic what a difference that has madeThrustmaster released a new firmware v34 for t300 wheels, which activates BOOST feature in the driver, something that claims to add 15% power in Constant and Spring forces.
I updated after v30, I stopped updating due to wheel base buttons not working with a custom rim, but now in v34 they work fine, and the FFB with the boost feature checked is noticeably improved.
View attachment 526945
The PC mode led is now Green, don't worry, it's normal.
Anyone with T300 I'd advise to check it out
v34 Firmware for T300
- Thread starter paokkerkir
- Start date
I've tried it again in Assetto Corsa with every slider in the TM Control Panel maxed out. In-game, when I feel that buzz happen, the FFB is nowhere near clipping; in fact, there is almost no FFB to be felt.
Not sure what the issue could be. Perhaps it has something to do with the not best condition of the motor in my T300? But then, why wouldn't it do that on older firmware versions? The best comparison of the buzz is to press the "Gong" effect in the TM Control Panel
Thanks for the heads up, enabling the boost function turned my t300 into a new, higher level wheel. Feels amazing! I got the best result in AC but ACC also feels grwat with it. I tried PC2 with a new custom ffb file and it made the game feel like a serious sim (at least with the few cars I tried).Thrustmaster released a new firmware v34 for t300 wheels, which activates BOOST feature in the driver, something that claims to add 15% power in Constant and Spring forces.
I updated after v30, I stopped updating due to wheel base buttons not working with a custom rim, but now in v34 they work fine, and the FFB with the boost feature checked is noticeably improved.
View attachment 526945
The PC mode led is now Green, don't worry, it's normal.
Anyone with T300 I'd advise to check it out
So, thanks again!
I'm heavily invested in the tm ecosystem with 6 wheel rims, custom and tm ones, and was really thinking about switching to other dd base, but I was put off due to the overwhelming cost of having even 3 different rims.
This update made me stall my decision till the dd base from thrustmaster comes. The wheelbase feels amazing compared to before.
I just drove iracing with the same settings, same car and same track with a t300 with firmware v29 and feels like a step down from my updated one. They really nailed the software, took them only 7 years.
Makes one think, that even belt driven wheelbases and all wheels in general, are really hindered by software in the end.
This update made me stall my decision till the dd base from thrustmaster comes. The wheelbase feels amazing compared to before.
I just drove iracing with the same settings, same car and same track with a t300 with firmware v29 and feels like a step down from my updated one. They really nailed the software, took them only 7 years.
Makes one think, that even belt driven wheelbases and all wheels in general, are really hindered by software in the end.
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Can you please explain how this is done.Thanks.
You need to uninstall current version, then extract files from TM installer for W10 (or download here https://ufile.io/lw6v7uy5 ) and manually install them: In windows device manager choose TM wheel - props - drivers - update - local search - select folder with extracted archive. It will install drivers and control panel.
Thank you for the quick reply, appreciated.I`m an old fart still on Win7 and will give this a try later today
.Hi, I'm on W7 too and I can't find usable files after extracting from the TM installer.
Could you please explain the process or repost your file elsewhere? The provided link doesn't work for me.
Thanks in advance!
Try VPN to dload archive
Really not liking V34 when playing FH5 , getting a lot of rattle with road effects at 0.5, fb 75% in profiler 0.8 in game . went back too v32 and the rattling was only noticable on dirt but stil not as bad as v34, cheesed off as I bought t300rs too get away from rattles of logi wheels and now sounds like one lol
Curious about the rattling FFB ... i noticed it as well on my T300 since some time, specially in some (not all) AC free roam tracks... it's super annoying after some time and feels just wrong, like the belt system is "defective".
Was thinking it was caused mainly by my wheel, because it's around 6 years old...
But now i think it could be my wheel plus the "wrong" firmware... at least some people report a different behaviour of their FFB after updating.
I am using the last FW before v34 release, so i will update later and reply again.
I must say, the green LED is very pleasing alone, but after reading this thread i have some hope for a better FFB in AC...
I think my wheel is "done" somewhow, but we'll see.
Was thinking it was caused mainly by my wheel, because it's around 6 years old...
But now i think it could be my wheel plus the "wrong" firmware... at least some people report a different behaviour of their FFB after updating.
I am using the last FW before v34 release, so i will update later and reply again.
I must say, the green LED is very pleasing alone, but after reading this thread i have some hope for a better FFB in AC...
I think my wheel is "done" somewhow, but we'll see.
There is a physics glitch on a large tracks in AC, may be it causes this ffb behavior. This bug is fixed in a CSP in singleplayer modes
I have used T300 for more than 2 years, and have had many issues with my wheel base, it has been disassembled around 10 times. I have done all the repairs myself, the big one beeing the adhesive replacement on the ferrite core (simple terms: reglueing of motor’s magnet (rotor) to main shaft of the motor), which is a pain, a massive one at that.
I have used firmwere v31, v33 and a couple of v2X, can not remember, don’t have old install files anymore. I updated the software and the firmware to latest (v34), here are my thought on the new update… I like the green, never loved the red, and it feels the same with the new boost feature OFF, maybe there are some differences (a bit snappier, sharper overall), but I, being a dumb meat-bag AKA human, can not feel them.
Now, the Boost feature – ON.
Lets all remember that the motor (B4260M) is still the same, the motor drivers (mosfets) are still the same. Firmware can not change that. Even if Thrustmaster decided to up the current (that is how to get more torque in this case, since belt/gear ratio is fixed) a bit on a device that is infamous for quality issues, you would still be left with a problem that more current = more heat, and the cooling solution is hardware fixed (fan + aluminium heat sink of motor). So I am going to assume that maximum torque of the wheel base has not changed (plus, release-note under Boost mentions "better feedback oversteer/understeer, enhanced road-holding, and optimizing steering system", no mention of extra torque or current in %, just terms that could mean anything). Than what does the Boost ON do?
I tested on Assetto Corsa, RBR(RSF), Dirt Rally, some others.
To me it feels like Boost ON is trying to maximize force feedback per corner in simple terms. With all settings in control panel the same, Boost ON feels stronger on same track and corner in the same car, but interestingly games report the same level of force (force feedback indicator in AC for example), yet the wheel is noticeably stronger/heavier. Which suggest to me that game is sending the same signal(requirement of force) to the wheel base, and than the wheel base is trying to upscale that signal(requirement of force) to produce more force, that happens to be closer to the maximum of what the base is capable of (set in control panel, lets say 95% for example).
And that is what I felt while testing, every corner felt kinda the same, gone were the heavy uphill corners, were car's mass transfer loads up the steering, gone were the light corners that do not take that much effort. Every corner had a bunch of force feedback, sounds bad, right? Well no, because of this increased force it is much easier to feel understeer/oversteer, it is much more pronounced, and easier to counter. If you are the "manhandle the car" type of driver, Boost ON could be for you. And in some games it could be "better" with Boost ON (maybe F1 series, have not played those much, but from what I remember). Just turn the force feedback either in Trustmaster Control Panel, or in game down a bit, because force feedback indicator in game might report incorrectly, and the wheel base will be clipping (not that all clipping is bad, if you sacrifice one corner clipping for more range in all other corners for example). So, sounds like a exchange: Boost ON gives more car force feedback, by giving less track/road force feedback, but…
I do not think that I can prove what I am about to say, to do that you would have to use testing equipment on wheel base or dig into the code of the software/firmware, but Boost ON feels weird on initial turn in, initial oversteer. If I try to describe it: the initial force feedback feels strong, but sluggish, slow and a bit dull then settles. On of the post on this thread mentioned this (slow oversteer or something), and I feel the same.
So test for your self, maybe you will like it, for me it is Boost OFF. Some games are just not right (RBR, but I have to ignore that one in overall discussion, too old, not well supported), in other games I can see the uses for it, if the initial force feedback weirdness is not noticeable. Call me out if you think I am incorrect, or missing something, these are just my thoughts and observations of of course.
I have used firmwere v31, v33 and a couple of v2X, can not remember, don’t have old install files anymore. I updated the software and the firmware to latest (v34), here are my thought on the new update… I like the green, never loved the red, and it feels the same with the new boost feature OFF, maybe there are some differences (a bit snappier, sharper overall), but I, being a dumb meat-bag AKA human, can not feel them.
Now, the Boost feature – ON.
Lets all remember that the motor (B4260M) is still the same, the motor drivers (mosfets) are still the same. Firmware can not change that. Even if Thrustmaster decided to up the current (that is how to get more torque in this case, since belt/gear ratio is fixed) a bit on a device that is infamous for quality issues, you would still be left with a problem that more current = more heat, and the cooling solution is hardware fixed (fan + aluminium heat sink of motor). So I am going to assume that maximum torque of the wheel base has not changed (plus, release-note under Boost mentions "better feedback oversteer/understeer, enhanced road-holding, and optimizing steering system", no mention of extra torque or current in %, just terms that could mean anything). Than what does the Boost ON do?
I tested on Assetto Corsa, RBR(RSF), Dirt Rally, some others.
To me it feels like Boost ON is trying to maximize force feedback per corner in simple terms. With all settings in control panel the same, Boost ON feels stronger on same track and corner in the same car, but interestingly games report the same level of force (force feedback indicator in AC for example), yet the wheel is noticeably stronger/heavier. Which suggest to me that game is sending the same signal(requirement of force) to the wheel base, and than the wheel base is trying to upscale that signal(requirement of force) to produce more force, that happens to be closer to the maximum of what the base is capable of (set in control panel, lets say 95% for example).
And that is what I felt while testing, every corner felt kinda the same, gone were the heavy uphill corners, were car's mass transfer loads up the steering, gone were the light corners that do not take that much effort. Every corner had a bunch of force feedback, sounds bad, right? Well no, because of this increased force it is much easier to feel understeer/oversteer, it is much more pronounced, and easier to counter. If you are the "manhandle the car" type of driver, Boost ON could be for you. And in some games it could be "better" with Boost ON (maybe F1 series, have not played those much, but from what I remember). Just turn the force feedback either in Trustmaster Control Panel, or in game down a bit, because force feedback indicator in game might report incorrectly, and the wheel base will be clipping (not that all clipping is bad, if you sacrifice one corner clipping for more range in all other corners for example). So, sounds like a exchange: Boost ON gives more car force feedback, by giving less track/road force feedback, but…
I do not think that I can prove what I am about to say, to do that you would have to use testing equipment on wheel base or dig into the code of the software/firmware, but Boost ON feels weird on initial turn in, initial oversteer. If I try to describe it: the initial force feedback feels strong, but sluggish, slow and a bit dull then settles. On of the post on this thread mentioned this (slow oversteer or something), and I feel the same.
So test for your self, maybe you will like it, for me it is Boost OFF. Some games are just not right (RBR, but I have to ignore that one in overall discussion, too old, not well supported), in other games I can see the uses for it, if the initial force feedback weirdness is not noticeable. Call me out if you think I am incorrect, or missing something, these are just my thoughts and observations of of course.
I've switched it off too, it just feels weird.
Defo creating more rattling effects, turning it off is much better
Thx, i am aware of that...
...i believe it is just the age of my wheel, not super smooth anymore like a new T300.I've tested v34 the last days and i can't rly feel improvements or a smoother FFB.
The boost function is not that bad, but i don't use it as well. Back to my old settings and "happy" plus enjoying the green light.
But about inverted pedals:
Is it correct, that the LED will flash one time every 8 seconds? That must be super annoying if true... imho.
e: typo
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I switched the boost off yesterday and went back to my original settings.
As mentioned cornering felt weird and killed alot of details.
As mentioned cornering felt weird and killed alot of details.
A quick guide by Thunderfoot TV on youtube regarding FFB settings for Thrustmaster units.
