So you will need a rubber band ball (or something like that, I think an eraser would be also good) and a program called DiView.
My experience with pedals: T3PA, G27 (+Nixim mod), Clubsport V2.
I have a Thrustmaster T150 which comes with the 2-pedal set. The pedalset in itself is $60 so it's a cheap set: the pedals are pretty light, the pedal travel is measured with a potentiometer.
I think I can safely say I've found a good solution to mod the brake pedal so it becomes more like a load cell brake pedal.
I don't know if this "mod" is known or not in the community. I've seen and tried all the other mods, all of which says to put something behind the brake pedal: rubber, sponge, foam, piece of yoga block, etc.
I tried all of these and I found all of these unsatisfactory/bad. Either you feel it's a foam (rebound is slow) and/or you can't fully press the pedal and/or the pedal travel distance becomes too short and/or the beginning of the travel is too light (because it's just the spring).
So I took the pedalset apart and I placed a rubber band ball (made by me) onto the foam which is just next to the brake spring. The diameter of this ball is ~2 cm.
What this does is when you press the pedal you don't just press the spring but also this rubber ball.
When you put the pedalset together it just fits right there and you have to use your weight when you screw the thing together. I wouldn't go larger than 2 cm diameter. And remember to recalibrate the potentiometers before you screw it together (this is the hardest part of the whole process).
What you should feel is a progressive brake with all the pedal travel and it's not super hard to press at the end (like with the conical brake mod and all the other very firm mods). It's not perfect because at the start of the pedal travel it's still a bit light but it's better than stock form and you will get used to it in half an hour.
Trail braking: no problem. Consistency: no problem.
If you want the end of the travel harder you can still put something behind the pedal (I would recommend ~0.5 cm thick piece of yoga block ).
Now when you're ready and you connected everything to the PC and the calibration software sees the wheel and the pedalset then start DiView.
In this program select the window which measures the brake pedal pressure (you will understand when you see it ).
Then right click on that window, select calibrate and change the Center from 512 to between 0 and 512, I suggest 128. Then close the program and you don't have to touch it again.
What this does is when you basically at half the distance with your brake pedal the games/simulators will register only around 1/8th of the travel (1024/8).
And it's done.
My experience with pedals: T3PA, G27 (+Nixim mod), Clubsport V2.
I have a Thrustmaster T150 which comes with the 2-pedal set. The pedalset in itself is $60 so it's a cheap set: the pedals are pretty light, the pedal travel is measured with a potentiometer.
I think I can safely say I've found a good solution to mod the brake pedal so it becomes more like a load cell brake pedal.
I don't know if this "mod" is known or not in the community. I've seen and tried all the other mods, all of which says to put something behind the brake pedal: rubber, sponge, foam, piece of yoga block, etc.
I tried all of these and I found all of these unsatisfactory/bad. Either you feel it's a foam (rebound is slow) and/or you can't fully press the pedal and/or the pedal travel distance becomes too short and/or the beginning of the travel is too light (because it's just the spring).
So I took the pedalset apart and I placed a rubber band ball (made by me) onto the foam which is just next to the brake spring. The diameter of this ball is ~2 cm.
What this does is when you press the pedal you don't just press the spring but also this rubber ball.
When you put the pedalset together it just fits right there and you have to use your weight when you screw the thing together. I wouldn't go larger than 2 cm diameter. And remember to recalibrate the potentiometers before you screw it together (this is the hardest part of the whole process).
What you should feel is a progressive brake with all the pedal travel and it's not super hard to press at the end (like with the conical brake mod and all the other very firm mods). It's not perfect because at the start of the pedal travel it's still a bit light but it's better than stock form and you will get used to it in half an hour.
Trail braking: no problem. Consistency: no problem.
If you want the end of the travel harder you can still put something behind the pedal (I would recommend ~0.5 cm thick piece of yoga block
).Now when you're ready and you connected everything to the PC and the calibration software sees the wheel and the pedalset then start DiView.
In this program select the window which measures the brake pedal pressure (you will understand when you see it
).Then right click on that window, select calibrate and change the Center from 512 to between 0 and 512, I suggest 128. Then close the program and you don't have to touch it again.
What this does is when you basically at half the distance with your brake pedal the games/simulators will register only around 1/8th of the travel (1024/8).
And it's done.
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