Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

My journey started with a T300 and the basic 2 pedal set, I wasn't sure if the racing bug would really kick in so I wasn't willing to invest all too much early on and ever since I have been chasing my tail in the Thrustmaster ecosystem. The dual pedals it came with sucked and I very quickly ended up getting T3PA Pros to replace them.

T3PA Pros
I bought a set of T3PA Pros and they were a decent improvement. The brake was still positional but the conical brake in the box was OK if a bit stiff. I found the BJS Conical mod about 18 months ago and the green rubber was actually quite a good feeling with a gamma of 1.4. I drove like that for nearly a year and I got a lot better. I had managed to dial in a mostly linear feel but I had two problems at each end. At the top end of braking, there were too few values to give smooth adjustments and secondly, I couldn't really feel where 10% was so coming off trailing was a bit hard. I figured I would work it out in the end but I never got the hang of it consistently.

6 months ago I got an SRS (https://www.simracingsolutions.co.uk/) loadcell mod. Unlike the Ricomotech one, this pushes directly horizontally into the loadcell via rubber grommet. It is really solid, the pedal barely moves with this installed. It's not configurable either, so all you can really do is increase the minimum and decrease the maximum in-game to dial it in. Supposedly it has a 20KG loadcell in it, I was mostly using it at 45% in AC. This took my braking up a notch and made trailing easier, but I couldn't really come off the brake smoothly and slowly, the lack of movement was a bit of an issue. Hitting the points (100, 80, 20) was all fine but if I came off the brake and then wanted a blip of it the minimum was about 10%. There was too much pressure to get things going at all, it felt like 50% to get the first 10% and then linear upwards to 100% and that was the biggest problem. I wanted the trail to be half the pressure I was using at least it was far too heavy from the outset. They did offer to ship me a 10KG loadcell and that might have helped but I think the problem was more inherent to the design than the sensor.

T-LCMs

Enter the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals. The moment I saw reviews I figured the setup application combined with the configurable springs was likely going to be what I was looking for. I had a loadcell already and it had improved my driving but it wasn't easy to learn to use and I didn't like the pedal feel at all. I got them out of the box 3 hours ago (after leaving them for a week to de virus!).

I tried the initial medium brake setting, found about 60% brake pressure was similar, removed most of the minimum force and went for a drive. I drove the same car/track/grip I drove in an endurance race a few days ago so it was fresh in my mind for comparison. I dropped 1.5seconds at best, but more importantly I had a lap to lap variance of 0.2-0.3s. I managed maybe 0.6s with occasional bad laps with the SRS Loadcell, these things instantly fixed my inconsistency problem. Its one thing to eventually find the pedals help, but to instantly just find them amazing I was not expecting that. The confidence I have with these brakes within minutes of getting them out of the box is incredible.

The initial setup they have too much travel for my taste and I think I want to remove the preload motion, go a bit stiffer and get the throttle further away so I can heel-toe blip easier. But already I can see coming off smoothly is easy, hitting the key points for threshold was easy to learn and trailing was not a problem at all. I am impressed, as a combination its cheaper than the T3PA Pros and the Fanatec loadcell set which I nearly bought until these were announced. It is clearly better in every way than the SRS loadcell. Loadcells are not all equal and having that movement in the pedal helps with consistency just as the loadcell helps the muscle memory, I need both to race well apparently. My pedals were definitely limiting me and Thrustmaster has done a good job with these, hall sensors on the throttle and clutch and that smooth loadcell.

About the only thing that has irritated me is the need to unplug the USB for the pedals if you change a setting, but it's going to be an initial annoyance that disappears once I am done with the setup process.
 
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Had been looking for these since the day I pre-ordered the pedals 2/18/20.
Maybe their easier to find now got mine in December, here's where i got a set (I'm in USA):


They work great for us "sock/barefeet" drivers
 
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They sure do! Might have to follow suit and reach out to my friend and have him print me a set.
It's always good to have a friend with a 3D printer. :)
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I am still waiting for the delivery of the matching nuts and bolts, which I had to buy online as the hardware stores are still closed due to the pandemic.

Bummer that the brackets failed on you as well... a good thing they were inexpensive!
Yup. The basic idea of them is good tho. Too bad Playseat did not come up with something like that by themselves yet.
 
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And it's mounted. These guys should last for a while. :)

View attachment 448588

You might consider reversing the top pair of brackets so their wider portion is mounted outside of the rail.

This not only mounts them symmetrically to the bottom brackets (I don't know about you, but this also make my O.C.D. side a lot happier!) but will slightly widens their stance, providing improved stability.

Because this is racing, after all, and little things will sometimes make a large difference! :)
 
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You might consider reversing the top pair of brackets so their wider portion is mounted outside of the rail.

This not only mounts them symmetrically to the bottom brackets (I don't know about you, but this also make my O.C.D. side a lot happier!) but will slightly widens their stance, providing improved stability.

If I flipped them, their mounting holes won't line up with those of the pedals, which not only triggers my OCD but leads to some even more severe problems. ;)
 
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Re Mounting

Before mounting the T-LCM to this "box", I was concern that the bottom of the T-LCM is not completely flat nor square. There was a round rubber feet that goes between the two M6 holes, which were closer to the pedal pivots. At the end, I just tightened down the 4 M6 bolts and not worrying about it.

Since I am still sitting relatively high in a standard office chair, I decided to tip the pedals up so that the pedal action is kind of going down, about 30 degrees, rather than more horizontal, like in F1 feet up position. There are actually 3 hole positions on the legs, I can tip the pedal angle up and down. The angle seems to work. The pedal no longer wants to tip up because of the two support legs the lean against the wall in the back. I did have to drill out a "notch" to allow the cables to go through, instead of sliding along the top edge.
One more thing I had to do is putting some spacer on the front edge because my two side legs are too short, the pedals box would tip down if I put any weight on the front.

For a temporarily solution, I am happy about it. Did the whole thing in one afternoon, though thought about it for weeks. Now if I can buy a T-300 wheelbase to replace the old red Momo wheel I will be happier.

Re Squeak
One more note, the squeak on the pedal developed after perhaps only 10~20 hrs of use. It was fixed without requiring any new grease. I simply smear the grease that was on the spring/seat around. I noticed the red spring was leaving paint mark on the bottom seat, load cell. So it was a one minute quick smear and the squeak seems to be gone.
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Just a FYI ...This will cause the clutch and/or throttle to instantly go from 0% to 50% if you barely touch the pedal which makes driving incredibly difficult. If you did calibrate them by accident already in the Windows Control panel simply go back in there and press Reset to Default and then they will work perfectly. It drove me crazy for hours trying to figure out why my clutch and throttle were working like a on/off switch to the point I almost returned them thinking they were defective!

I know I'm replying to a months-old post, but thank you! I was about to return mine before doing this. What's weird is that I don't think I did use the Windows calibration tool and the throttle just turned into an on/off switch between on session and the next a day later. But I was messing about with an Arduino to convert my Logitech shifter to USB and also installed some new driver for a sound problem so who knows what Windows might have done?
 
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Here’s what I did to brace the pedals against the wall under my IKEA desk. I used two 24 in. 1-5/8 in. strut channels (generic, but a brand name is Unistrut), 16 mm long M6 machine screws with 1/4 in. fender washers, and plastic end caps to so I wouldn’t hurt the baseboard or my toes. The channel is heavy — 12 gauge steel — and the arrangement is very stable.

I got the strut precut, but you could get longer lengths and cut to suit if you have the tools. You could also use longer struts to extend it and add a crosspiece to prevent chair rollback. I use a metal folding chair that’s very stable on carpet.

It’s a happy coincidence that the store had British Racing Green powder coated struts.
 
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After about a years worth of driving with these I was getting a vary inconsistent travel on the Brake pedal when it would build up a bit of resistance and then move a bit but suddenly.

Long story short I removed the PRE-LOAD and I'm so much better at breaking now with out it!

I'm using the washers now instead of the pre-load at the top of my stack with the white spring second and the black spring last.

If you are having problems with being constant and trail braking try the break with out the pre-load to see how it feels.

I was getting ready to look for new pedals but now I think I'm grand for another couple of years.
 
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I use no pre-load and both red springs.

There is still a small amount of travel before brake starts loading but feels realistic. I was aiming for less travel and more force loading to simulate a real brake pedal.

I might go back to one softer spring to see if my trail braking feels a bit more controllable. Currently I feel my brake is a bit on / off and I might benefit from more range of movement.
 
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It's the initial movement of the pedal before you start getting any braking effect. The middle spring is very light, giving this initial movement with small load. In a real car there will be slight movement of the pedal required before the brake hydraulic system builds enough pressure to apply brake force.

You can eliminate it by fitting all the washers in the centre segment effectively making it solid. At that point you are then immediately compressing the two main springs when you push on the pedal.

It's just what feels right for you. How much initial pedal movement do you want before it feels a lot stiffer.

The general thinking is that we are better at being consistent with force rather than movement with our legs / feet. Real cars have very little pedal movement on the brake once you move it the initial amount.

I feel I want a bit more movement under load than what I have so I have more travel on the pedal as I release the brake turning into the corner.
 
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Thanks. It does seem that out-of-the-box the tiniest touch will register on the calibration app, in spite of (?) the pre-load. Also, what‘s the relationship between software dead zone and mechanical pre-load? Default setup feels pretty much like a road car to me, which is what I’m used to - works well for me.
 
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Thanks. It does seem that out-of-the-box the tiniest touch will register on the calibration app, in spite of (?) the pre-load. Also, what‘s the relationship between software dead zone and mechanical pre-load? Default setup feels pretty much like a road car to me, which is what I’m used to - works well for me.
Hi,

I lifted the bottom slider on the T-LCM control panel software for the brake so I can rest my foot on the brake and apply a small amount of pressure / movement before I get a few percent of braking. I then lowered the horizontal slider to set the max braking at a force I felt was about right for maximum effort I wanted. I aim for about 92% braking at full / comfortable effort which then leaves me the last 8% when needed if I am pushing / risking lock ups.

The preload is the middle light spring that gives initial travel with minimal brake force applied to simulate a real brake pedal initial movement. You can reduce this travel by fitting some or all of the washers. Software dead zone is when you lift the bottom slider as per my description above. You create a dead zone of movement where no brake is applied in game until a minimum force is reached.
 
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The preload is the middle light spring that gives initial travel with minimal brake force applied to simulate a real brake pedal initial movement. You can reduce this travel by fitting some or all of the washers. Software dead zone is when you lift the bottom slider as per my description above. You create a dead zone of movement where no brake is applied in game until a minimum force is reached.
Thanks. So my understanding is that in the pre-load portion of the mechanical travel there's a little braking, in contrast to the software dead zone in which there's no braking.
 
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Thanks. So my understanding is that in the pre-load portion of the mechanical travel there's a little braking, in contrast to the software dead zone in which there's no braking.
Yes, software dead zone is where you adjust the software slider to set the point at which the first amount of brake force is applied in game.

I usually rest my foot on the pedal and adjust slider to make sure there is no brake force applied. I then just push down slightly more to take up most / all of the pre-load in the pedal and adjust the software slider to give a few percent braking force. Now I have a repeatable feel for when initial slight breaking is applied. I then push through to a comfortable / firm effort and adjust the horizontal slider for max breaking force to be at 92%. This amount of force usually is enough to stop without locking up. If I need more than 92% then I just have to push that bit harder for those rare occasions. I like to have a repeatable / comfortable maximum effort level that results in 'almost' maximum braking so I keep lock-ups to a minimum.

Make sure you check again for when resting your foot on the pedal that there is no braking force otherwise you could be slowing yourself down unknowingly.
 
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[]Hello guys I recently bought a T-lcm pedal set but due to the load cell brake, I need a stand for the pedal set. I've seen the thrusmaster t-pedals stand but in my opinion, it's really too expensive. I wanted to create a small do-it-yourself stand just for the pedalboard (therefore not the steering wheel). Do you have any advice? Have any of you done a similar job?
Thanks in advance

[]Buongiorno ragazzi da poco ho acquistato una pedaliera T-lcm ma a causa del freno con cella di carico, ho bisogno di uno stand per la pedaliera. Ho visto il t-pedals stand di thrusmaster ma parere mio, costo veramente eccessivo. Volevo creare un piccolo stand fai da te solamente per la pedaliera (quindi non volante). Avete qualche consiglio? Qualcuno di voi ha effettuato un lavoro simile?
Grazie in anticipo
 
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I wanted to create a small do-it-yourself stand just for the pedalboard (therefore not the steering wheel).
Depending on your seat, how comfortable are pedals setting on the floor?
Tilting pedals improved my pedal comfort by a board screwed under their back,
then strapping that board to the seat resists leg forces on brake pedal:
sidestand.jpg
 
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Just as information....... my second T-LCM pedals broke today (after 2y and 3m) The brake sensor recognize the pressure for just a second. Then "disconnect"

My first set broke also right after the 2 years guarantee. The throttle was just broken apart

I like the pedals very much and think the price-performance value is great. I am driving quite a lot (10-15h/week)
so i don´t know if 2y are ok, or should i be pis** off?!

As i am not a rig driver i see no really alternatives...so i have ordered them for the 3rd time :devilish:
 
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