SimLabs GT1 build log (includes NLV3 motion platform mounting)

[anton_Chez]

It starts.....

5 weeks ago I decided to pull the trigger on a chassis upgrade after building an 'Anthony Room' extension on the bottom level of my house. I ordered a SimLabs GT1 80 / 20 cockpit after hearing so many good things about this type of material for sim racing cockpits.

It arrived this afternoon.

After 50kg's worth of aluminium made its way from the Netherlands to Australia, it still had an hour drive home from work before we could get started.

My games room:

Cleaning up whatever was in the way in the yet to be completed move-in, I made room to begin the build. Half the components of my new build are yet to arrive. As some may know, I also decided that nowhere near enough money was spend on the chassis and decided to upgrade to an OSW direct drive wheel, HE Pro Pedals and handbrake. 2 Buttkicker Mini LFE's will also replace my 4 Aura Bass Shakers used on the previous build. As you can see I was quite eager to try them and 5 weeks is a long wait for anything in sim racing. They are screwed to an old table and I've been running them while driving with a game pad sitting at my PC, in-between them.

It's highly NOT recommended to try and drive with a game pad, FYI.....

Getting on to crack open the boxes now.

Everything was pretty well packed and nothing seems to be damaged. @Mascot was right about the lack of instructions.... None whatsoever. Just knowing what the parts are for would have been enough, but I assume that they all go together a particular way and you would know if a part was wrong as long as you follow a logical build structure. One slightly disappointing thing was that I received the standard, cheaper Fanatec shifter mount (one I originally had in the cart) but I ordered the more expensive, round looking one. I am sure I can make it work. If I get the extra parts that I requested, I'll be happy. Who knows, I may not even need it and just use it as a Buttkicker mount for the rear....

Time to get started.

Bottom frame loosely together to allow for adjustments before I tighten down and pull everything into square. Nice of SimLabs to include the rubber feet of the P1 in my GT1 build. On their site it states you get plastic feet which in the pictures do look slightly higher and obviously a different material to the rubber included in the P1. I appreciate that. I do have some rubber isolation coming for the seat and pedals and planned on using the left overs for the feet. Well they aren't here yet and as @Mascot pointed out, put the feet on before you get too far into the build. I have to change pedals soon anyway and will sort all of the above ground stuff out later. Much easier to get to than turning the chassis upside down once the monitors are on.....

A side note. I was worried how much room this chassis would take behind my desk chair here (my PC is to the left of the chassis in the photo). It's footprint is actually pretty good as you can see. You can measure all you like before hand but nothing is like actually having the item in the place where it's going to be sitting. I think I'll be OK.

A quick look at how the V3 platform fits inside the seat mounting frame. The gap either side of the bottom frame is actually not too bad. Spacers might have worked and allowed me to drop into the frame a bit better than what I have planned. I do have an idea though, and will try that once I get some food into me and continue the build. You can see the absolutely shocking drill out I had to do on the rear of the top frame of the platform to accommodate the seat slider and H frame on the old chassis. These are both gone now and the build will be much better for it. The lower I can get this platform the more options I have when choosing a seating position. I've always wanted to have my feet high and stuck out way in front to simulate being in an open wheeler. Hopefully this chassis and what I have planned for the V3 mount will allow this.

Having fun so far

So, the original (above) brackets I had in mind were a little too long. The platform barely sits above the carpet. Which is great for seating position but not so great for the fan underneath. So, I had some others lying around I was intending on using for Buttkicker mounts, that I don't think I will need. They also look HEAPS stronger, and will also bring the platform up enough for me to be comfortable with ventilation. Very similar to the single piece @Mascot had fabricated but not as nice

Mounting platform now.

So the second bracket option is a no go as well. The bolt heads hit up against the profile because of the different drop in the bracket. I've conceded that for tonight, at least, I am reverting back to plan A and taking it from there. I want to get most of this together tonight and if I spend any longer perfecting the V3 mount I may well have no time for anything else. The V3 does sit a fair bit higher this way, but it's something I can come back to later on without too much fuss, I'd say. With it in front of me I have a much better chance of knowing what will work best.

 

[Jeremy Ford]

I have a 35" Ultrawide, that's my backup monitor outside of VR. It's on swing arm allowing me to use the monitor for normal PC gaming etc. But I'm finding it very hard to enjoy sim racing outside VR now. It's been so many months I can't remember the last time I raced with a screen. I'd also admit I'm quite the VR addict and shifted 90% of my gaming time over to VR.

 

[Mascot]

Also has anyone got experience with an Ultrawide monitor? What size, res? I am thinking of ditching the triples and running VR everything except for those that don't support, and just running a single screen, larger than the 27 inch ones I have now. Even a 4K 40" would be awesome as I can run that easily and it cuts down on the space the screens stick out in the room. My room is only just under 3m wide, so space is a precious commodity and in terms of my layout, the screens will be super in the way compared to a single, even if it's bigger.

Thoughts?

Can you go back to racing in 2D after using VR, mate? I certainly can't, it just feels a bit... videogamey by comparison with really restricted perspective, hardly any of the immersion, none of the sense of presence, no depth perception, no sense of scale, no binocular stereoscopic 3D, no object separation. I'm afraid if a sim doesn't support VR then I won't be supporting that sim.

It's 2018! Onward and upwards!

 

[anton_Chez]

I just bought a basic 1080p 35" monitor to replace my triples. $369 AUD and I am going to use one of my old monitors for my new study build I am soon doing for the missus. So it basically pays for itself, I would have needed to buy her a monitor anyway if I kept all of mine. I had a feeling this would happen when I came down here. Triples is such a pain in the d**k to use most of the time anyway. Getting them to look right took me forever and Nvidia surround eats a$$. So it's going to be a pleasurable experience again to use titles that don't support VR, because most if not all of those titles lack true triple screen support anyway! Dirt 4, Wreckfest, WRC 7, none of those ever use triples anyway and they lack VR support.

Jeremy, you are going to like when I receive my Kickstarter unit of the Pimax 8K VR headset...... Hopefully by middle of the year backers should have them in hand.

 

[anton_Chez]

@Mascot I tend to use one or the other for a length of time before switching. To be honest the only reason I really use screens is because I LOVE Automobilista, and it doesn't support VR until more than likely the next title. Which is fine, but I don't want to miss out on that sim because it's absolutely a breath of fresh air with everything it does. FFB and physics feel fantastic, the breadth of content in that title is found nowhere else, at least the stock content. It's an amazing title and I am so looking forward to being able to enjoy a Reiza release in VR hopefully sometime later this year or early next year. Going to 2D, yeah it's a big difference, but I certainly can still do it. WRC 7 for all it's faults feels really good once you sort out the quirks and it's another reason to own a handbrake which is always nice, as I am not much of a drifter.

Really happy I've gone this route now, it will fit the room PERFECTLY. The screen basically is as wide and the chassis is, nothing sticking out the sides. I can now get my cockpit over to the wall side further and that allows the walkthrough between my desk and chair and the chassis to be very comfortable and I won't feel like I have a monitor poking me in the back of the head while sitting here talking to you lot

BTW @Mascot, I measured the outside of the frame and it's 600mm. Not sure what your P1 is but the way the V3 sits inside the side mounts, it doesn't appear to be that much wider at all than the P1. I do have the seat mount bridging the gap and that's the part that the 'wings' for the V3 sit on, so that may be throwing off the visual of it a little. But certainly the GT1 (and P1 I can assume) are super compact and beautiful looking cockpits. Really happy with the outcome. Now that means that the monitor side mounts that Darko is sending me can be used as spare profile for other mounting options. I have to work out a way to mount my CSW V2 mounted DSD button boxes to the OSW. Derek sells a standard OSW mount now, but that means I need to swap all the components over if I order the casing. I am going to try something else before I do that.

Also, another thing that is great about ditching the triples is that I have more room to mount things like handbrake and also position it where I want it, not where it will just fit. I was going to tilt my screens in when not in use to make some room, but if there's hardware in the way that won't work. Also the SimLab mount is not like the GT Ultimate V2 screen mount, you need to loosen bolts to swivel the screens. Just cleaner and easier this way.

 

[Mr Latte]

Following this with interest, just been busy with work and other things, so apologies as have to properly go through recent posts in more detail. Also, enjoy these threads.

For the tactile, my best advice is to discuss what your for using and consider ways of mounting prior to just running with an idea. I see read of fancy hardware being bought but less desire to have a major step up in the tactile or amps. Just as you will find it a big step up from a Clubsport to a DD Wheel in power and performance the BK Mini will bring some elevation in tactile from the Aura you had but really if your not going to implement at least one or 2 BK Advance (or larger) units then the potential of what you can experience is greatly diminished regards the representation and feel/immersion of low frequencies and these are quite a big deal when it comes to the feeling and perception some effects can generate. I would seriously try to tempt you to consider at least one large unit to be installed in the near future or something like an iNuke DSP amp and dual BK Advance used to bring a lot of energy to the front/back axis that will compliment your motion. We can also use bigger units in a central mode between front/back BK MIni pairs. Kinda like having a sub as 2.1 for front pedal regions and seat also.

What would benefit 8020 users is jointly trying some solutions. More needs to be understood from practical testing and looking to see what can offer a high level of isolation, improved performance, reduce channel blending yet at a price point that makes it viable.

Several threads have links or discussions on different materials for isolation and noise reduction but who is going to start and try some of the options shared or indeed combine materials and solutions?

I will learn more myself in coming weeks/months as my own build is underway and I have lots of isolation materials and options to try out. However, my own build is not 8020 based, instead, using mainly steel tubing.

 

[Mascot]

@AntoN_CheZ According to Sim Lab the P1 is 580mm wide and the GT1 is 680mm wide, I'm guessing with the outboard verticals (2x40mm) taken into account. There should therefore be about a 70mm gap each side between the inside edge of your side rails and the edge of the NLV3, ie about 50mm more each side than with the P1.

Doesn't look like it from your photos though. Weird..!

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I have a 35" Ultrawide, that's my backup monitor outside of VR. It's on swing arm allowing me to use the monitor for normal PC gaming etc. But I'm finding it very hard to enjoy sim racing outside VR now. It's been so many months I can't remember the last time I raced with a screen. I'd also admit I'm quite the VR addict and shifted 90% of my gaming time over to VR.

Initially I couldn’t go back to 2D with anything but I was busy with work for a couple of weeks and got used to it again so now I’m back to completing my 2D game backlog before I transition over completely. Really not impressed by 2D games anymore graphically everything just looks so small even on my 60” TV, not tried it on the projector yet but looking at a tree towering above you even on a 100” screen still isn’t the same.

Do try Bigscreen Beta with max screen size, a slight curve and at a distance just in front of your real wheel then all the track details are to scale works really well IMO and you have to look to the edges of the screen like VR though obviously actual Fov is no different to a single screen but it does fool your brain. I use the oculus remote with it and it allows you to look and click as a mouse.

 

[anton_Chez]

I'm totally fine with games that are not sim racing related. I've been gaming 30 years and never with something on top of my head. I absolutely only bought into VR for sim racing. Otherwise I would never have had an interest in it. It's perfect for sim racing and that's exactly what I use it for.

@Mr Latte certainly the tactile you speak of and the tactile I hope to achieve are very very different. I am already about $6k deep in full on upgrades and am probably at the end of the line for the time being. I see your points, definitely, and it would be awesome to have large units. But with a seat mover and no great desire to shatter my teeth while racing, I just don't know if I can go down the rabbit hole in regards to perfecting a tactile simulation. I certainly appreciate your efforts and will be contributing what I experience here for others to learn from, both with my for now limited usage of SSW and also with SimVibe as well.

I am going to wait for my proper BK mounts from SimLab, mount them how I feel would be best, test, and go from there. Obviously not going to achieve super low frequencies with what I have, but I always went into tactile with the goal of just having a little more immersion and sense of presence in the vehicle, not to blow minds with what's possible. Looking forward to your feedback once I put the finishing touches on her and get the new gear all mounted.

For what it's worth the Mini LFE's are miles ahead of the Aura's from what I can tell. I'll need to use them in the same sense though, as I have only had them mounted to a timber table for testing. I can't see the Aura's being better in ANY situation, however.

Bed time boys, another 2am evening and I am probably up to 10 hours sleep over 3 nights once I wake up in the morning so it's a wonder how I am functioning still.

Speak soon.

 

[Jeremy Ford]

I just bought a basic 1080p 35" monitor to replace my triples. $369 AUD and I am going to use one of my old monitors for my new study build I am soon doing for the missus. So it basically pays for itself, I would have needed to buy her a monitor anyway if I kept all of mine. I had a feeling this would happen when I came down here. Triples is such a pain in the d**k to use most of the time anyway. Getting them to look right took me forever and Nvidia surround eats a$$. So it's going to be a pleasurable experience again to use titles that don't support VR, because most if not all of those titles lack true triple screen support anyway! Dirt 4, Wreckfest, WRC 7, none of those ever use triples anyway and they lack VR support.

Jeremy, you are going to like when I receive my Kickstarter unit of the Pimax 8K VR headset...... Hopefully by middle of the year backers should have them in hand.

I've been following the Pimax, it's going to be great for sim racing. I guess the Pimax should arrive around the same time as the new Nvidia cards drop as that bumped up resolution is going to need some horsepower.

 

[Jeremy Ford]

Initially I couldn’t go back to 2D with anything but I was busy with work for a couple of weeks and got used to it again so now I’m back to completing my 2D game backlog before I transition over completely. Really not impressed by 2D games anymore graphically everything just looks so small even on my 60” TV, not tried it on the projector yet but looking at a tree towering above you even on a 100” screen still isn’t the same.

Do try Bigscreen Beta with max screen size, a slight curve and at a distance just in front of your real wheel then all the track details are to scale works really well IMO and you have to look to the edges of the screen like VR though obviously actual Fov is no different to a single screen but it does fool your brain. I use the oculus remote with it and it allows you to look and click as a mouse.

I've used Bigscreen for the odd movie, never tried it for gaming but that's a genius idea.

 

[Mr Latte]

I'm totally fine with games that are not sim racing related. I've been gaming 30 years and never with something on top of my head. I absolutely only bought into VR for sim racing. Otherwise I would never have had an interest in it. It's perfect for sim racing and that's exactly what I use it for.

@Mr Latte certainly the tactile you speak of and the tactile I hope to achieve are very very different. I am already about $6k deep in full on upgrades and am probably at the end of the line for the time being. I see your points, definitely, and it would be awesome to have large units. But with a seat mover and no great desire to shatter my teeth while racing, I just don't know if I can go down the rabbit hole in regards to perfecting a tactile simulation. I certainly appreciate your efforts and will be contributing what I experience here for others to learn from, both with my for now limited usage of SSW and also with SimVibe as well.

I am going to wait for my proper BK mounts from SimLab, mount them how I feel would be best, test, and go from there. Obviously not going to achieve super low frequencies with what I have, but I always went into tactile with the goal of just having a little more immersion and sense of presence in the vehicle, not to blow minds with what's possible. Looking forward to your feedback once I put the finishing touches on her and get the new gear all mounted.

For what it's worth the Mini LFE's are miles ahead of the Aura's from what I can tell. I'll need to use them in the same sense though, as I have only had them mounted to a timber table for testing. I can't see the Aura's being better in ANY situation, however.

Bed time boys, another 2am evening and I am probably up to 10 hours sleep over 3 nights once I wake up in the morning so it's a wonder how I am functioning still.

Speak soon.

I wish people would stop with this incorrect interpretation that BIG Buttkicker units, relates to shaking your teeth out or absurd levels of tactile vibration. My own tactile is bloody well refined and controlled. The main gains of the larger units is not necessarily wattage/power related but please note, their capacity to deliver with sufficient energy the true sensation of low and below 20Hz in particular frequencies. Its a matter of having controlled energy/power just like a DD wheel can be tuned to suit the users preference yet deliver high levels of torque.

The BK Mini and the ADX (Aura Pro) are two of the most installed units, by all means, people can have very enjoyable tactile with these. Yet it is important to have perspective here what the bigger units main abilities are.

The BK Mini are punchy little suckers, but they lack refinement in detailing or the smoothness they can operate compared to say your older Aura Pro. I owned both and compared at one point so speak from past experiences here.

A shaker as in a "piston based unit" will bring more force/punch but it requires a sustained wattage to move the piston. A speaker based transducer does not and can operate with tiny levels of wattage so it can bring finer detail/response and timing. For instance, I am trying to work with effects creation between the most powerful TST unit and the most powerful Buttkicker and we find very distinct differences in the sensations they produce for specific frequency bands. The TST wipes the floor in detail with over 60Hz (on my units) yet as expected the BK murders the TST regards depth and punch with low end. So the same created effect does not come across the same on each unit. They also require very different levels of amplitude for specific frequencies to work ar their best. It's like comparing music on two sets of headphones with very different characteristics, one being bass heavy and the other perhaps more tamed but bright with mid-high bass. The song is the same but how it comes across in its detail or impression is very different.

That POWA Perception Again
@Magiashkii has the big, BK LFE on a single small pedal stem section of 8020. Yet that unit could, if be desired shake most of a typical 8020 rig. (The glass of water test can do wonders). As such in my view to properly sustain its energy in a small section his own isolation methods may fail in some degree to sustain enough of its energy in the isolated section. The point is with isolation we have to consider what is being used as to what may be sufficiently required to make the isolation work effectively for its purpose.

BK mini will be much easier but these forums have more discussion on this topic and materials or suggestions than likely any other sim related forums. What I would like to see is people discuss, learn and share to help bring you and others progress and understanding how to help better install tactile.

I do encourage you to get the best Simvibe profiles and setup you can as I am interested in you comparing and bringing your own views on what effects I release for SSW. How these two software solutions also compare in what the pros/cons are.

 

[Hiro Abe]

The main gains of the larger units is not necessarily wattage/power related but please note, their capacity to deliver with sufficient energy the true sensation of low and below 20Hz in particular frequencies. Its a matter of having controlled energy/power just like a DD wheel can be tuned to suit the users preference yet deliver high levels of torque.

I can certainly attest to this. I installed an LFE under my seat and it's not like I'm getting bounced all over the place. Instead, it delivers this wonderfully detailed rumble and shake that you just feel resonate through your body. It's an awesome sensation.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I've used Bigscreen for the odd movie, never tried it for gaming but that's a genius idea.

Honestly as soon as the screens are high enough resolution to match a 1080p TV and GPU’s can push it with ease I’ll play all my 2D games when I’m on my own like that.

I highly recommend getting the remote though I permenantly have it hanging from my rig and just press the centre button and can then use it as a mouse pointer with the headset. Never have to take off the headset and just load up desktop view for anything you can’t operate in normal VR. It’s also nice a compact, battery life is not a concern and you don’t have to point and invariably punch your wheel and anything else close to you on the rig or just have it obscure it entirely.

 

[Jeremy Ford]

Honestly as soon as the screens are high enough resolution to match a 1080p TV and GPU’s can push it with ease I’ll play all my 2D games when I’m on my own like that.

I highly recommend getting the remote though I permenantly have it hanging from my rig and just press the centre button and can then use it as a mouse pointer with the headset. Never have to take off the headset and just load up desktop view for anything you can’t operate in normal VR. It’s also nice a compact, battery life is not a concern and you don’t have to point and invariably punch your wheel and anything else close to you on the rig or just have it obscure it entirely.

I have a Vive so the no Oculus remote for me. But I do have a mouse in reach while sitting in my rig. I'll have a crack on Wreckfest and see how I get on. Hopefully it works with DD wheels these days, I haven't tried for couple of years.

 

[anton_Chez]

@Mr Latte certainly see your points and they are well made. My point is, I never wanted direct drive, and yet here I am ready to mount one later today. I just don't want ANOTHER thing taking away from the thing all of this is for, sim racing. I can get addicted to the hardware and build side of things, I think that's what attracts me to sim racing as much as the racing itself. I guess what I am trying to say is, let me mount these suckers to the rig at least and see how they go. I have already found that with my current bracket (not ideal) the lower frequencies (under 60) tend to not be felt anywhere near as much as say 100hz. I think it's the bracket bouncing and not transferring the sensation to what it's connected to. Hopefully this will be solved with the thicker mounts I have coming. There is tonnes of feel around say 100hz and to me, this is encouraging because I'd like to get some of that road detail into the higher frequencies instead of just the bumps and bangs at below 40hz. I am close to being able to actually driving with them so we can start playing with files then.

I need to sort out how to use the EQ with SSW, too, as it works with SimVibe. To cut out those sub 35hz knocks.

 

[Mascot]

@Mr Latte certainly see your points and they are well made. My point is, I never wanted direct drive, and yet here I am ready to mount one later today. I just don't want ANOTHER thing taking away from the thing all of this is for, sim racing. I can get addicted to the hardware and build side of things, I think that's what attracts me to sim racing as much as the racing itself. I guess what I am trying to say is, let me mount these suckers to the rig at least and see how they go. I have already found that with my current bracket (not ideal) the lower frequencies (under 60) tend to not be felt anywhere near as much as say 100hz. I think it's the bracket bouncing and not transferring the sensation to what it's connected to. Hopefully this will be solved with the thicker mounts I have coming. There is tonnes of feel around say 100hz and to me, this is encouraging because I'd like to get some of that road detail into the higher frequencies instead of just the bumps and bangs at below 40hz. I am close to being able to actually driving with them so we can start playing with files then.

I need to sort out how to use the EQ with SSW, too, as it works with SimVibe. To cut out those sub 35hz knocks.

I tried moving my BK again last night. I've had it on the proper NLV3 BK mount but there are a lot of moving parts and linkages in the motion platform, so it can have a metallic rattle at some frequencies that not only breaks immersion, but also sets my spidey sense on red alert. I know it's only a BK Gamer 2 driven by my sub and needs constant adjustment (I need to look into the NLV3 software that can drive it to get better control, but I *think* you need a second sound card? I don't really want to spend £80 on SimVibe right now) but even a 'better' transducer fed via SimVibe would still be outputting the same range of frequencies and causing the same rattles. I've often found myself driving for a few races before realising my BK isn't active so I don't think I'd actually miss it that much if I removed it altogether. The other option I guess is to mount it at the pedals away from the NLV3 and get the tactile feedback at that end.

It's not a subject I know very much about, to be honest.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I tried moving my BK again last night. I've had it on the proper NLV3 BK mount but there are a lot of moving parts and linkages in the motion platform, so it can have a metallic rattle at some frequencies that not only breaks immersion, but also sets my spidey sense on red alert. I know it's only a BK Gamer 2 driven by my sub and needs constant adjustment (I need to look into the NLV3 software that can drive it to get better control, but I *think* you need a second sound card? I don't really want to spend £80 on SimVibe right now) but even a 'better' transducer fed via SimVibe would still be outputting the same range of frequencies and causing the same rattles. I've often found myself driving for a few races before realising my BK isn't active so I don't think I'd actually miss it that much if I removed it altogether. The other option I guess is to mount it at the pedals away from the NLV3 and get the tactile feedback at that end.

It's not a subject I know very much about, to be honest.

How have you got sound from your sims at the moment? HDMI? If yes then you can use the onboard sound to drive the BK which is what I do.

 

[Jeremy Ford]

I tried moving my BK again last night. I've had it on the proper NLV3 BK mount but there are a lot of moving parts and linkages in the motion platform, so it can have a metallic rattle at some frequencies that not only breaks immersion, but also sets my spidey sense on red alert. I know it's only a BK Gamer 2 driven by my sub and needs constant adjustment (I need to look into the NLV3 software that can drive it to get better control, but I *think* you need a second sound card? I don't really want to spend £80 on SimVibe right now) but even a 'better' transducer fed via SimVibe would still be outputting the same range of frequencies and causing the same rattles. I've often found myself driving for a few races before realising my BK isn't active so I don't think I'd actually miss it that much if I removed it altogether. The other option I guess is to mount it at the pedals away from the NLV3 and get the tactile feedback at that end.

It's not a subject I know very much about, to be honest.

I relocated my single transducer from the NLV3 buttkicker mount to under the pedals and I find that worked best for me. Certain vibration effects passing through the NLV3 platform through to the seat are definitely more muted than before owning the NLV3.

 

[Mascot]

How have you got sound from your sims at the moment? HDMI? If yes then you can use the onboard sound to drive the BK which is what I do.

Yep, I use HDMI out to the 5.1 amp. That's good news then, sounds like I've been doing it wrong since getting my PC. The one thing that's always annoyed me about the BK fed from my sub is that I set it perfectly for one car then the next car wants to shake my house down. It requires constant fiddling with the 'volume' on the remote to get it to an acceptable level. I've never really understood the settings on the BK amp either.

I'm wondering if the NLV3 tactile software can bring some consistency to things? Obviously not as good as SimVibe, but better than a sub feed?

 

[Mascot]

I relocated my single transducer from the NLV3 buttkicker mount to under the pedals and I find that worked best for me. Certain vibration effects passing through the NLV3 platform through to the seat are definitely more muted than before owning the NLV3.

Cool, I'll look into this.