!RELEASE! GeroDa74 1972 BMW Turbo

Cars !RELEASE! GeroDa74 1972 BMW Turbo V0.9Te

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!RELEASE! GeroDa74 1972 BMW Turbo (V0.9Te Silver) - assetto corsa

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Grazie Shiff (Blackmore) per il modello 3D.

La mod è in corso e la versione finale include modifiche dettagliate.

tutte le funzionalità sono già lì, ma sai che sono un perfezionista.
funzioni presenti nella versione 0.95:

- quattro aperture, porte, cofano anteriore e cofano motore...

Read more about this resource...
 
Hi Davide.. I noticed a couple of things with this interesting piece of history. First, my ffb feels reversed with this car, meaning as I approach the steering lock limit, my wheel resistance lessens greatly. I've looked at the data files, but cannot figure out why this might be.
Secondly, I can open the doors and hoods in the showroom, but not in-game. I double-checked that my extra buttons are assigned.

Any ideas about either issue?

Thanks!
 
Hi Davide.. I noticed a couple of things with this interesting piece of history. First, my ffb feels reversed with this car, meaning as I approach the steering lock limit, my wheel resistance lessens greatly. I've looked at the data files, but cannot figure out why this might be.
Secondly, I can open the doors and hoods in the showroom, but not in-game. I double-checked that my extra buttons are assigned.

Any ideas about either issue?

Thanks!
Hi Paul, no... I'll try to understand why
 
Hi Paul, no... I'll try to understand why
Hi! I'm having the same issue with reversed foce feedback - it feels like it has a lot of inertia and no resistance: if I push it one way it accelerates going the same way until it hits the lock. It also feels very losse in the center and stiff on the sides. If it helps, I'm using a G25 with the correct version of Logitech Profiler. All other cars (and games) work fine.
 
Hi Paul, no... I'll try to understand why

I had a look into the suspension and I think there are a couple of things going on up front that are a little bit unconventional. (Mind you I haven't studied the real car at all, so I'm speaking in general design terms here.)

1) The strut bottom point and the lower control arm wheel point should be the same for AC - that's not strictly necessary for the car to work and feel ok, but in terms of kinematics, that's where they belong. They're pretty far apart in the current design.

2) One of the consequences of this is that you have -3.70cm of negative trail - that's likely to be the issue, or at least a big part of it. Most cars have a small amount of positive trail which keeps the front wheels stable.

Try something like this for the front strut location, just to see if it cures the FFB issue:
STRUT_CAR=0.2323669,0.3386076,-0.01693153
STRUT_TYRE=0.123,-0.1145138,0.0130588

(Again, I have no idea if that's accurate to the real car's geometry. I've just consolidated the strut/control arm points on the wheel and moved the strut top to maintain ~3.7deg caster.)

Moving the strut like this gives 0.55cm of positive trail, which is maybe a little on the high side for the cars I've worked with, but at least it's on the right size of zero. :D
 
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I had a look into the suspension and I think there are a couple of things going on up front that are a little bit unconventional. (Mind you I haven't studied the real car at all, so I'm speaking in general design terms here.)

1) The strut bottom point and the lower control arm wheel point should be the same for AC - that's not strictly necessary for the car to work and feel ok, but in terms of kinematics, that's where they belong. They're pretty far apart in the current design.

2) One of the consequences of this is that you have -3.70cm of negative trail - that's likely to be the issue, or at least a big part of it. Most cars have a small amount of positive trail which keeps the front wheels stable.

Try something like this for the front strut location, just to see if it cures the FFB issue:
STRUT_CAR=0.2323669,0.3386076,-0.01693153
STRUT_TYRE=0.123,-0.1145138,0.0130588

(Again, I have no idea if that's accurate to the real car's geometry. I've just consolidated the strut/control arm points on the wheel and moved the strut top to maintain ~3.7deg caster.)

Moving the strut like this gives 0.55cm of positive trail, which is maybe a little on the high side for the cars I've worked with, but at least it's on the right size of zero. :D
This edit to suspensions.ini fixed the problem for me, thanks!
 

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