@Luthfil Lutz hey, so let's get you some force feedback
Please read the posts above and see if you can spot your problem. You probably did some mistake with the files.
I'll copy the text I've sent Kozzion again:
So you don't have any force feedback at all?
This seems like somehow the ffb got switched off in general...
The problem: AC doesn't have a setting like "FFB = 0/1" so there must be something else going on.
So I'll start with everything that comes to my mind:
1. Did you have force feedback before doing what's in my guide?
If not -> Point 2.
2. Do you have the power cable plugged into your G27? If you don't have it plugged in you can steer etc but you won't have any force feedback!
If you pull out the usb cable and plug it back in, does your G27 start to rotate to both ends on its own??
3. Since everything is in my guide in pictures and text, I guess you have the Logitech profiler and the ingame settings like they should be?
4. If you go on track, drive out of the pits and then press the "+" on the numpad. What value gets shown at the top of your screen? It should be around 100%.
Hi,
Firstly I just want to say thanks for this LUT, setup guide and all the work you have put in. I am new to sim racing and have been trying out different force feedback options for my Logitech g29 with Assetto Corsa. I have tried just configuring the in-game settings and found minimum force 20% and 17% filter to be the best option. It felt that although I was getting a lot of force and torque, I am probably losing some detail. I then discovered Wheelcheck and LUT's and did the step Log 2 test, created a LUT for my wheel and implemented it using the standard LUT guide using 0% minimum force and 0% filter and paired it with the FFB Clip app. Generally, the force feedback with this setup felt a little hit and miss at times and with some more looking around I found your LUT's. I followed your guide and used the recommended no clip LUT at 50% gain.
I found the torque was quite strong and the wheel was generally harder to turn than I liked, So my first question is that the way this is setup, is it personal preference or is it realistic force feedback and torque?
After using this setup for a while I paired it with the FFB clip app, Couldn't notice a lot of difference BUT after a few races over 2 days the force feedback completely cut out in the middle of a race. I found that sometimes unplugging the wheel and plugging it back in or restarting Assetto Corsa sometimes helped other times hitting reset on the FFB Clip app seemed to fix it and return the force feedback for a short while before it cuts out after a race or 2 again. I decided to set FFB Clip app to "manual override" and uncheck "run in background" However, this did not fix the problem and the same random loss of force feedback continued and somehow hitting reset on the FFB Clip app would make it work again temporarily. I tried to reduce the Gain from 50% overall to 30%, which did feel better in terms of torque but the problem still existed. I decided to delete your LUT and go back to the standard LUT generated by using LUT Generator and Wheelcheck once again, paired with the FFB Clip app and I haven't had an issue since in terms of loss of force feedback. I wasn't sure what was causing this issue and still don't know but it seems to only be there when using your recommended LUT (I haven't tried the others) Some insight on this would be helpful if there have been similar experiences in the past or a known cause of the problem, could it just be that to use your LUT, I should uninstall FFB Clip completely?, but I don't get why it should be interfering.
Also, it would be interesting to know how your LUT differs from the LUT from Wheelcheck and LUT Generator? As I am new to all this so I don't quite get it and also have not found a post comparing the two approaches or even the 3rd approach when using minimum force with in-game settings. Some brief insight into how they differ would be great
I have tried just configuring the in-game settings and found minimum force 20% and 17% filter to be the best option. It felt that although I was getting a lot of force and torque, I am probably losing some detail.
20% is a bit much for minimum torque but still okay if you turned down the overall ffb a little. 17% filter though... Real cars are a lot smoother I know but you really want to get used to all the details. Imagine getting what you normally feel with your body sent into the wheel to make you feel the whole car in your hands.
My recommendation will always be 0% filter for that very reason. Sadly the Logitech wheels will rattle a lot due to the details but it is was it is...
Wheelcheck and LUT's and did the step Log 2 test, created a LUT for my wheel and implemented it using the standard LUT guide using 0% minimum force and 0% filter and paired it with the FFB Clip app (...) the force feedback with this setup felt a little hit and miss at times
I don't want to bash Wheelcheck or the LUT-Generator but I really really won't recommend to use it.
It tests how far the wheel spins for a certain amount of force input. But what happens when the resistance is not linear when you throw the wheel? What happens if it's different depending on how long the force gets applied? And what happens when you hold against the input-force with your hands?
In the end I think the Logitech engineers know their motors better than anyone else and tried to make the motor react as linear as possible.
So for me it's always: the stock ffb will feel the most linear when the force increases!
Wheelcheck might come to a different result but I tested this a lot with my bare hands and I trust them more than a theoretical program.
I found the torque was quite strong and the wheel was generally harder to turn than I liked, So my first question is that the way this is setup, is it personal preference or is it realistic force feedback and torque?
This is a difficult question with a pretty simple answer though:
For competitive racing you need the most dynamic range from the Logitech wheel that's possible. It is too weak to replicate the reality so you really want to maximize what you can get out of it.
So you want a nicely scaled ffb that goes from the lowest force the wheel response to right up to the maximum it can put into your hands.
It has nothing to do with personal preference or real forces. It's just about getting the most out of the wheel.
If you're sensitive enough to feel everything with a lighter wheel I can create you a lighter LUT though (basically the one I created for Ian in the linked post above).
To create a LUT like I do you need a few things:
1. determine the maximum force you want to get and set the maximum to that
2. determine the resulting deadzone (lower gain means bigger deadzone, higher gain a smaller deadzone)
3. Set the maximum gain and then experiment with the deadzone-removal-curve (the first few values of the LUT that nicely shapes the beginning of my LUTs)
The problem here is:
- making the curve too steep will create a "notch" when driving through a chicane for example. You can imagine the minimum torque setting or what the LUT-Generator creates an extremely steep curve! It's basically not a curve anymore at all.
- making the curve too flat and you will still have a deadzone or will have to raise the overall gain too much and either get clipping or higher ffb than you want to have
That's very very weird. Never heard about this... I wonder what it is.. Maybe ffb clip which cuts the ffb when too much clipping happens? Or do you run "sidekick"? It has a clipping setting too..
Anyway my recommended LUT has a very low GAIN which means no clipping should happen and then scales the FFB back up BEHIND the clipping meter (which imo results in a better ffb. The Logitech Software will cut off the input if it gets too much. But it should simply clip and not kill the ffb!).
Try putting the gain back to 100% and use my "normal center" LUT. It's the most standard LUT without much standing still noise. It still has a tiny deadzone but it's still a lot better than the minimum torque setting!
Mh... about this:
After reading everything above you now know:
1. We want to maximize the capabilities of the Logitech wheel
2. higher gain means a notch at the center (too high beginning of the curve = not a smooth drop off anymore
3. lower gain means getting a dead center
Conclusion: There's only one specific gain setting in combination with each LUT where the deadzone will be completely gone but you still won't feel a notch when driving left/right/left/right (chicane for example).
So FFB clip gets rid of clipping but it sadly means it will either create a deadzone or a notch for each car.
What I do instead:
You have the + and - buttons on the numpad to raise or lower the ffb gain for each car independently. I simply drive the car and play around until the deadzone is gone but I don't feel a notch. That's it.
Sadly this means having basically the same ffb strength for each car no matter whether you're driving a fiat 500 or a 80's F1 car. But that's the price for a nice feeling around the center.
Luckily all cars still feel completely different due to their physics and shape of FFB.
I guess you already know this by now hehe.
But to summarize it:
LUT Generator:
measures stuff in an only theoretically good way, leads to curve that feels absolutely awful and still doesn't get rid of the deadzone/notch because it doesn't have a nice drop-off curve but instead just goes from 0 to "ffb on" within ONE STEP.
My LUT:
tested by hands and sweat over multiple weeks and optimized over months. Keeps the standard ffb output of the Logitech ffb motors and only shapes the very few perfect of the FFB to get rid of the deadzone in a smooth way.
Trying to not alter the default FFB as far as possible.
FFB clip:
It's a nice tool for two things:
1. If you get a very strong wheel you can perfectly drive anything from 20% gain to 100% gain.
20% means that a spike over a sausage kerb for example can still spike into the maximum of the game before it gets limited by clipping!
80% means a sausage kerb spike will only be a relatively small kick into your hands.
So with stronger wheels you can "adjust the dynamic to your liking".
FFB clip will give you a nice overview about how much headroom for spikes or whatever you still have and how often ffb gets cut off by clipping during normal cornering.
2. the dynamic mode gets rid of the deadzone and maximizes the feeling of a Logitech wheel in a very nice way. It's just awesome if you want to cruise into the sunset and have a blast.
However if you want to really drive at the limit or be competitive you want to build muscle memory!
And muscle memory means to always have a certain strength for each situation. The dynamic mode varies the ffb output depending on the situation so you can't build this important muscle memory!
Meaning Logitech wheel + building muscle memory = kick FFB clip from your game.
What to do now for you:
1. Uninstall ffb clip
2. Put the game gain back to 100%
3. Put the in-car game when on track back to 100%
4. Use Ian's custom LUT from my linked post but maybe use his little adjustment for the first values. You figure out how to play around with all this stuff so I'm sure you'll know how to get Ian's LUT running.
If not: simply open the "recommended".lut with a text editor, copy the table from this spoiler:
and overwrite the content of the "recommended".lut
You'll now have a maximum of 70% ffb output.
5. Go on track and play around with + and - on the numpad until the center feels nice
6. Probably have a lot of questions, post a massive post in here and let my write half a book again
Oh wow, I didn't expect a reply that fast and detailed, thanks!
So I understood what you said above and it makes sense as a whole and I don't have any more general questions at this stage. Thanks for the clarifications! but I have a few questions about your recommendations at the end:
So I followed the steps you mentioned at the end and got everything working, however, I noticed that in the end, Ian was using the LUT combined with the FFB clip app, I have disabled it completely at the moment. So with this LUT should I leave it disabled according to your suggestion to keep things consistent?
I tried the new setup with a few races today and have noticed that there is a lot of clipping with the wheel now, Is this normal and should I just ignore it? Or should I instead try the normal recommended LUT again and just reduce the overall gain in each car as when using that there was strong force feedback but no clipping, just the issue of it cutting out but since I have disabled FFB clip, it may not cut out anymore. So which setup would you recommend to set and stick with out of these 2?
This is tricky.
So what you got now is 100% gain from assetto corsa, which means not too much clipping as it's the default from the devs but still it's definitely clipping in basically every turn.
And then these 100% that are clipped, are scaled down to 70% of the logitech maximum.
I have to admit it would probably be better to run 70% gain in the game and grab a LUT that gets rid of the deadzone when using 70% gain (more deadzone removal than the tight center lut otherwise the same, reaching 100% maximum).
This will mean the same average force strength but with some headroom for spikes.
One important thing about clipping:
Force feedback is the result of "strength" and "direction".
Clipping means that the strength can't increase anymore. The direction however will still be calculated before the clipping. At least for the important stuff like the steering position.
So if a small detail comes on top of the almost clipping cornering ffb, the slight change in direction will be there but a bit weaker since the strength will be cut off.
Clipping isn't as bad as everyone thinks it would be. It simply limits the dynamic while still keeping the direction part of the ffb.
Only if the clipping reaches a level where it even clips off cornering forces it will become strange. Like already clipping when driving straight. You would still have the direction of the ffb changing when cornering but the steering won't become heavier when cornering.
I tested it with ridiculous settings to understand this.
I'll try to make you a new LUT, allowing for 70% ingame gain, 100% in car gain to give you a bit less clipping.
The clipping app though.. Leave it be. You can try to lower the gain while in the car until you start to have a deadzone at the center. Lower than this and I would be annoyed by the deadzone.
That's the lowest I would recommend. Maybe it's not clipping as much then?
Hi, so I have decided to switch back to the standard recommended LUT with 50% gain and have used it for a few races and have had no issues so far, I think it was definitely the ffb clip app interfering with it and having gotten rid of it seems to fix the problem and I seem to get a lot of detailed force feedback, I just adjust it per car as I see fit and works great so far. I think I will stick with this for the time being and if there are any issues or updates I will be sure to come back and report on them. Thanks for all your help
It's basically identical to the g27 apart from straight cut gears instead of helical gears.
So just put everything like on the download page and use the no clip but stronger _ recommended lut.
That what I ended up with and never changed again
prima di tutto grazie mille per la prontezza nel rispondere e per il tuo lavoro che ci dà l'opportunità di godere di più del simulatore.
ok, installo "NoClipButStronger_recommended", ma all'interno dello ZIP c'è anche "DFGT" con un'altra LUT all'interno e ff_post_process, dovrei ignorarli?
poi ho visto che ci sono diverse guide con parametri diversi per le impostazioni del gioco delle impostazioni del volante, del profiler e dei valori della cartella .ini, quali sono i valori che devo considerare e quindi impostare nei miei file e impostazioni? grazie ancora amico.
1. We want to maximize the capabilities of the Logitech wheel
2. higher gain means a notch at the center (too high beginning of the curve = not a smooth drop off anymore
3. lower gain means getting a dead center
Conclusion: There's only one specific gain setting in combination with each LUT where the deadzone will be completely gone but you still won't feel a notch when driving left/right/left/right (chicane for example).
So FFB clip gets rid of clipping but it sadly means it will either create a deadzone or a notch for each car.
What I do instead:
You have the + and - buttons on the numpad to raise or lower the ffb gain for each car independently. I simply drive the car and play around until the deadzone is gone but I don't feel a notch. That's it.
Sadly this means having basically the same ffb strength for each car no matter whether you're driving a fiat 500 or a 80's F1 car. But that's the price for a nice feeling around the center.
Luckily all cars still feel completely different due to their physics and shape of FFB.
the dynamic mode gets rid of the deadzone and maximizes the feeling of a Logitech wheel in a very nice way. It's just awesome if you want to cruise into the sunset and have a blast.
However if you want to really drive at the limit or be competitive you want to build muscle memory!
And muscle memory means to always have a certain strength for each situation. The dynamic mode varies the ffb output depending on the situation so you can't build this important muscle memory!
Meaning Logitech wheel + building muscle memory = kick FFB clip from your game.
One important thing about clipping:
Force feedback is the result of "strength" and "direction".
Clipping means that the strength can't increase anymore. The direction however will still be calculated before the clipping. At least for the important stuff like the steering position.
So if a small detail comes on top of the almost clipping cornering ffb, the slight change in direction will be there but a bit weaker since the strength will be cut off.
Clipping isn't as bad as everyone thinks it would be. It simply limits the dynamic while still keeping the direction part of the ffb.
Only if the clipping reaches a level where it even clips off cornering forces it will become strange. Like already clipping when driving straight. You would still have the direction of the ffb changing when cornering but the steering won't become heavier when cornering.
I tested it with ridiculous settings to understand this.
prima di tutto grazie mille per la prontezza nel rispondere e per il tuo lavoro che ci dà l'opportunità di godere di più del simulatore.
ok, installo "NoClipButStronger_recommended", ma all'interno dello ZIP c'è anche "DFGT" con un'altra LUT all'interno e ff_post_process, dovrei ignorarli?
poi ho visto che ci sono diverse guide con parametri diversi per le impostazioni del gioco delle impostazioni del volante, del profiler e dei valori della cartella .ini, quali sono i valori che devo considerare e quindi impostare nei miei file e impostazioni? grazie ancora amico.
Could you rewrite this in English, please?
Not sure if Google translate got it right...
1. You have different folders for each "configuration package" in the zip. Decide for one of them (I'll pick the no clip but stronger folder) and just drop all files inside that folder into your Assetto corsa / cfg folder in your documents.
2. Assetto needs two files to activate a lut:
- the lut file
- telling the game to use exactly that lut file
In the zip you'll find the ready configured ff_post_process.ini for each lut file.
So drop both files into your ac folder and it'll work
I'm sorry for the Italian ...
to avoid confusion I asked you this:
I understand that I have to install this: "NoClipButStronger_recommended", but inside the ZIP "RasmusP_LUTs_V1_1" there is also the "DFGT" folder with another LUT file inside and ff_post_process, should I ignore them? DFGT?
then I saw that there are different guides with different parameters to set the steering wheel ingame and for the settings of the logitech profiler, and other values still to be modified in the .ini files, to which guide I must refer in order not to make mistakes and set the right values in the logitech profile, in the settings of the steering wheel ingame, and in the files.ini to be modified in the folders of assettocorsa
1. You have different folders for each "configuration package" in the zip. Decide for one of them (I'll pick the no clip but stronger folder) and just drop all files inside that folder into your Assetto corsa / cfg folder in your documents.
2. Assetto needs two files to activate a lut:
- the lut file
- telling the game to use exactly that lut file
In the zip you'll find the ready configured ff_post_process.ini for each lut file.
So drop both files into your ac folder and it'll work.
1. You have different folders for each "configuration package" in the zip. Decide for one of them (I'll pick the no clip but stronger folder) and just drop all files inside that folder into your Assetto corsa / cfg folder in your documents.
2. Assetto needs two files to activate a lut:
- the lut file
- telling the game to use exactly that lut file
In the zip you'll find the ready configured ff_post_process.ini for each lut file.
So drop both files into your ac folder and it'll work.
Oh I see now.. My Screenshots are different to what's written in point 6. I should do new Screenshots!
Anyway just do this: 6. additional: - Logitech Profiler: - overall: 100 (don't raise this! you will get crazy rattling!)
- spring: 0-100 (doesn't do anything in AC)
- damper: 0-100 (resistance that's only active while standing still or rolling slowly) - untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"
- AC InGame: [updated values!] - Gain:[50% with the "recommended" LUT] (75-125% In the Car via numpad +/-)
- Filter: 0 - Min Force: 0% - kerb: 1-5% (unnecessary vibrations) - road: 2-10% (5% is enough to give you some subtle vibrations on surface changes) - slip: 23% (important to feel spinning or locking wheels!) - abs: 23% (to know when the tyres reach their limit) - understeer: untick (it's unrealistic, only good for learning) - Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!
All the other ini changes are only needed if you changed them before. If everything is at default, you don't have to touch any ini file!
Note regarding the "damper":
On higher end wheels it gives you some nice rubber feel when standing still and turning the wheel.
But with the Logitech wheels you'll have some "scratching" that simply feels awful.
So in Assetto corsa I use damper at 0.
Either in the ini files, or in the Logitech driver, or in both.
I should edit these lines in the download page.. Sorry
I am sorry that this is off topic but I really need help.
I am new to this but for some reason I went onto Asseto Corsa and when I try to configure my G29 it says that AXIS-6 is moving and it doesn't recognize my brake as an AXIS either... Help!
I am sorry that this is off topic but I really need help.
I am new to this but for some reason I went onto Asseto Corsa and when I try to configure my G29 it says that AXIS-6 is moving and it doesn't recognize my brake as an AXIS either... Help!
PC, PS4, XB1, Mobile | Assetto Corsa community forums | Kunos Simulazioni
www.racedepartment.com
Would be very helpful if you could do some Screenshots. Snipping tool, copy and then just ctrl+V in the forum page should do the job
I'm not on Logitech wheels anymore and never had this problem with Assetto Corsa so create a new thread and I'm sure there are guys out there knowing how to help you!
Hello RasmusP, Thanks for the time you put in. I think I put in everything you said correctly and I still have a deadzone of about 30 degrees each way with no ffb. I hope you can help. Thanks.
