Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[RasmusP]

After a full day of testing, i really like it it feels nice. If anything maybe turn down the ffb just very slightly but its at a very good level for me.

Thanks for the feedback!

Is the ffb in general a bit too much or only around the center a bit too strong and "tight"?

(with Logitech wheels there isn't really too much.. They can't replicate anywhere near real forces)

So it doesn't make sense to lower the maximum ffb with Logitech wheels, but you can lower the average ffb by turning down the gain and win some dynamic range.
(less clipping and lower average ffb strength, same peak ffb strength)

The issue with this is that you also turn down the "dead zone removal curve", which you can see in my graph that I posted of the LUT.

So if you say the center feels perfect but you'd like to lower the gain, then you might get a "hole" in the center. In this case I would need to make the dead zone removal curve a bit stronger.

Basically:
8% anti deadzone at 100% gain
-> lowering gain to 80%
-> 8% anti deadzone needs to be:
100/80 = 1,25
8% * 1,25 = 10%

-> Scaling the anti deadzone curve to 10%, while not changing the linear graph from 20% to 100% ffb strength.

If you say the center is a bit tight anyway, then simply lowering the gain will do the job just fine

 

[hardxbl]

Thanks for the feedback!

Is the ffb in general a bit too much or only around the center a bit too strong and "tight"?

(with Logitech wheels there isn't really too much.. They can't replicate anywhere near real forces)

So it doesn't make sense to lower the maximum ffb with Logitech wheels, but you can lower the average ffb by turning down the gain and win some dynamic range.
(less clipping and lower average ffb strength, same peak ffb strength)

The issue with this is that you also turn down the "dead zone removal curve", which you can see in my graph that I posted of the LUT.

So if you say the center feels perfect but you'd like to lower the gain, then you might get a "hole" in the center. In this case I would need to make the dead zone removal curve a bit stronger.

Basically:
8% anti deadzone at 100% gain
-> lowering gain to 80%
-> 8% anti deadzone needs to be:
100/80 = 1,25
8% * 1,25 = 10%

-> Scaling the anti deadzone curve to 10%, while not changing the linear graph from 20% to 100% ffb strength.

If you say the center is a bit tight anyway, then simply lowering the gain will do the job just fine

only around the center a bit too strong and "tight"? -- this part right here, lowering gain in game seems to fix it for me thank you for your help and your time to explain it all to me as it is all fairly new to myself

 

[RasmusP]

@MoistBoba I'm reply here so we can exchange more than one message like in the review section.
You say you have clipping. Can you explain this more detailed? When do you have clipping and how does it feel?

Just if you don't know this or if you know this, just skip this part:
The rattling of the Logitech wheels is not clipping, that's fast shaking ffb (like kerbs), which always rattles due to the 2 motors in the Logitech wheels.
Clipping means that although you'll have the "direction" part of the FFB still perfectly fine, the strength of the FFB won't increase anymore.

Lowering the FFB gain, will make the wheel quieter over kerbs, because the 2 motor gears inside the Logitech wheel will not work as hard against each other.

If you would, in theory, lower the FFB to never have clipping and make the motors a lot stronger inside the wheelbase, the rattling would be just as loud and awful, without clipping.


If you want, I can create you a LUT with a stronger anti-deadzone curve, so you can lower the FFB gain.
Making the wheel feel nice and tight but reduce the FFB gain to make it quieter when there's a lot of ffb going on.

 

[MoistBoba]

@MoistBoba I'm reply here so we can exchange more than one message like in the review section.
You say you have clipping. Can you explain this more detailed? When do you have clipping and how does it feel?

Just if you don't know this or if you know this, just skip this part:
The rattling of the Logitech wheels is not clipping, that's fast shaking ffb (like kerbs), which always rattles due to the 2 motors in the Logitech wheels.
Clipping means that although you'll have the "direction" part of the FFB still perfectly fine, the strength of the FFB won't increase anymore.

Lowering the FFB gain, will make the wheel quieter over kerbs, because the 2 motor gears inside the Logitech wheel will not work as hard against each other.

If you would, in theory, lower the FFB to never have clipping and make the motors a lot stronger inside the wheelbase, the rattling would be just as loud and awful, without clipping.


If you want, I can create you a LUT with a stronger anti-deadzone curve, so you can lower the FFB gain.
Making the wheel feel nice and tight but reduce the FFB gain to make it quieter when there's a lot of ffb going on.

I mean the clipping doesn’t really bother me it just says im clipping when i look at the pedals. I know that the rattling isn’t making the wheel clip but it just goes red when i look at the pedals. Unless the race essentials thing is inaccurate with the pedals.

 

[RasmusP]

I mean the clipping doesn’t really bother me it just says im clipping when i look at the pedals. I know that the rattling isn’t making the wheel clip but it just goes red when i look at the pedals. Unless the race essentials thing is inaccurate with the pedals.

Aaaah alright!
That's a bit weird though. The upscaling from the LUT isn't shown in the clipping meter and the recommended LUT is only using 50% gain.
That means you're getting clipping with 50% gain.

I'm using a fanatec csw now and mostly use around 65% gain and I barely see any clipping. Only when hitting a sausage kerb etc.

What cars are you using? Kunos cars or mod cars? (some mod cars have crazy gain values)

Is your per-car-gain above 100%? (while driving, numpad plus and minus buttons)

Are you using ffb clip app? (which might increase your per-car-gain)

 

[MoistBoba]

Aaaah alright!
That's a bit weird though. The upscaling from the LUT isn't shown in the clipping meter and the recommended LUT is only using 50% gain.
That means you're getting clipping with 50% gain.

I'm using a fanatec csw now and mostly use around 65% gain and I barely see any clipping. Only when hitting a sausage kerb etc.

What cars are you using? Kunos cars or mod cars? (some mod cars have crazy gain values)

Is your per-car-gain above 100%? (while driving, numpad plus and minus buttons)

Are you using ffb clip app? (which might increase your per-car-gain)

I use both kunos cars and mod cars. Like the rss fh2020 when im going high speed and then a eau rouge comes up I clip. The per-car-gain is above 100% because it keeps auto adjusting dont know how to fix that. I tried using ffb clip then stopped. Maybe that‘s the problem? But yeah sometimes the clipping meter shows it being really high and then a slight turn makes it clip. But maybe it’s because I need to disable ffb clip. I also drift sometimes too.

 

[RasmusP]

I use both kunos cars and mod cars. Like the rss fh2020 when im going high speed and then a eau rouge comes up I clip. The per-car-gain is above 100% because it keeps auto adjusting dont know how to fix that. I tried using ffb clip then stopped. Maybe that‘s the problem? But yeah sometimes the clipping meter shows it being really high and then a slight turn makes it clip. But maybe it’s because I need to disable ffb clip. I also drift sometimes too.

When the gain auto-adjusts, then ffb clip is still running!
You're using way too much gain then overall.
My settings work like that:
50% gain to reduce clipping, then the LUT boosts the ffb back to about 75% but it feels stronger (I'd love to look into the source code to know if I'm right or not. But it felt great, so I just used it like that...).
When you're boosting the per-car-gain too high, you'll simply get clipping, which is boosted by 1.5x via the LUT. So massive clipping to your wheel...

With the LUT boosting by 1.5x at the maximum, your overall gain should not be higher than 67% (67% * 1.5 = 100%).
With 50% in the menu, the per-car-gain maximum is 134%. (134% * 50% = 67%).

With these maximum values, you will have SOME clipping, like through Eau Rouge, but not "too much" clipping.
Kunos default is 100% and is a good compromise between some clipping but not too much clipping, while having a good amount of average FFB %.

Hope that helps!

 

[MoistBoba]

When the gain auto-adjusts, then ffb clip is still running!
You're using way too much gain then overall.
My settings work like that:
50% gain to reduce clipping, then the LUT boosts the ffb back to about 75% but it feels stronger (I'd love to look into the source code to know if I'm right or not. But it felt great, so I just used it like that...).
When you're boosting the per-car-gain too high, you'll simply get clipping, which is boosted by 1.5x via the LUT. So massive clipping to your wheel...

With the LUT boosting by 1.5x at the maximum, your overall gain should not be higher than 67% (67% * 1.5 = 100%).
With 50% in the menu, the per-car-gain maximum is 134%. (134% * 50% = 67%).

With these maximum values, you will have SOME clipping, like through Eau Rouge, but not "too much" clipping.
Kunos default is 100% and is a good compromise between some clipping but not too much clipping, while having a good amount of average FFB %.

Hope that helps!

Ah okay i think i just gotta disable the app for ffb clip then. gonna disable it when I have time. Hope it works! Didn’t know ffb clip still runs when I don’t have the app open.

 

[MoistBoba]

When the gain auto-adjusts, then ffb clip is still running!
You're using way too much gain then overall.
My settings work like that:
50% gain to reduce clipping, then the LUT boosts the ffb back to about 75% but it feels stronger (I'd love to look into the source code to know if I'm right or not. But it felt great, so I just used it like that...).
When you're boosting the per-car-gain too high, you'll simply get clipping, which is boosted by 1.5x via the LUT. So massive clipping to your wheel...

With the LUT boosting by 1.5x at the maximum, your overall gain should not be higher than 67% (67% * 1.5 = 100%).
With 50% in the menu, the per-car-gain maximum is 134%. (134% * 50% = 67%).

With these maximum values, you will have SOME clipping, like through Eau Rouge, but not "too much" clipping.
Kunos default is 100% and is a good compromise between some clipping but not too much clipping, while having a good amount of average FFB %.

Hope that helps!

Okay it did help. Now im not clipping unless i crash or hit something! Thanks!

 

[Faraz Iqbal]

does anyone have any suggestions for ffb settings on the g920? can't seem to get the perfect balance

 

[RasmusP]

does anyone have any suggestions for ffb settings on the g920? can't seem to get the perfect balance

"Balance" means what exactly? Balance between a shaking wheel and a deadzone or balance between rattling from kerb/road/slip/abs and too smooth ffb or something else?

I would start with my g920 lut, 100% gain, 0% filter, 0% minimum force, 0% kerb/road/slip/abs.
Brake gamma to your liking.

This should give you a good starting point, very smooth though.
To get it even smoother you can use up to 5% filter.

To make it more alive, raise kerb or road. To get rattling when sliding/wheelspin/locking up, use slip/abs.

But if the base ffb isn't dialed in nicey, go on track with a car you like and use numpad + and - to change the per-car-gain until driving through chicanes (or just zig zagging like when warming up tyres) feels smooth.

And if you can't find a good value, you need a different LUT.

Then please search for wheelcheck (or use the version included with the "LUT generator" and instead of doing the log2 test, do the minimum force test.
The result value will show in the bottom left of the wheelcheck window.
Tell me this value and I'll adjust the LUT for your wheel

 

[Faraz Iqbal]

"Balance" means what exactly? Balance between a shaking wheel and a deadzone or balance between rattling from kerb/road/slip/abs and too smooth ffb or something else?

I would start with my g920 lut, 100% gain, 0% filter, 0% minimum force, 0% kerb/road/slip/abs.
Brake gamma to your liking.

This should give you a good starting point, very smooth though.
To get it even smoother you can use up to 5% filter.

To make it more alive, raise kerb or road. To get rattling when sliding/wheelspin/locking up, use slip/abs.

But if the base ffb isn't dialed in nicey, go on track with a car you like and use numpad + and - to change the per-car-gain until driving through chicanes (or just zig zagging like when warming up tyres) feels smooth.

And if you can't find a good value, you need a different LUT.

Then please search for wheelcheck (or use the version included with the "LUT generator" and instead of doing the log2 test, do the minimum force test.
The result value will show in the bottom left of the wheelcheck window.
Tell me this value and I'll adjust the LUT for your wheel

View attachment 509846

The thing is, this lut used to be working just fine. adjusting any setting in any car would feel the way you'd expect it to, increasing road ffb would just increase road ffb without affecting slip ffb. I tried saving a second preset of this lut for cars that I used a sequential shifter with (I was too lazy to just go and change the keybinds to use a seq shifter, looking back now I would've saved a ton of trouble just being less lazy). After saving that second preset, both presets' ffb felt very different, as if the lut wasnt working at all. I only have one wheel config preset now, it clearly shows that the g920 lut is enabled, but it doesn't feel the same way as it used to. increasing road ffb will change the feel of the slip/road/kerb ffb as well, and vice versa, without actually moving the slip/road/kerb ffb slider, if that makes sense. I hope this isnt too vague, I'm still really new to Assetto Corsa, and just modding in general

 

[TylerPL666]

With latest G Hub update my G29 with recommended LUT started to lose FFB in the middle (the wobble). Ive do a wheelcheck for min force and its 15%. Can you tell me how to adjust LUT to those settings?

EDIT: Looks like it was just decalibration. After that it come to what it was... Jeez, that Logitech...

now:

 

[RasmusP]

The thing is, this lut used to be working just fine. adjusting any setting in any car would feel the way you'd expect it to, increasing road ffb would just increase road ffb without affecting slip ffb. I tried saving a second preset of this lut for cars that I used a sequential shifter with (I was too lazy to just go and change the keybinds to use a seq shifter, looking back now I would've saved a ton of trouble just being less lazy). After saving that second preset, both presets' ffb felt very different, as if the lut wasnt working at all. I only have one wheel config preset now, it clearly shows that the g920 lut is enabled, but it doesn't feel the same way as it used to. increasing road ffb will change the feel of the slip/road/kerb ffb as well, and vice versa, without actually moving the slip/road/kerb ffb slider, if that makes sense. I hope this isnt too vague, I'm still really new to Assetto Corsa, and just modding in general

Mhhh this sounds very strange.
I know that cm has some issues with loading a new lut, then going on track, quitting the session, closing cm, opening cm again and then it has the old LUT loaded again instead of the newly loaded LUT.
And the annoying thing is that this "reset" happens when you go on track so when you're stuck in this "LUT reset to the previous one" - bug, you will never drive the newly loaded LUT.

What helps:
Loading the new LUT / configuring everything.
Close cm, open cm. Make sure everything is configured as you want it.
Then close cm and use the default AC launcher. Go on track with any combo.
Quit the session, close the default launcher, open cm, check if everything is correct and go on track.

This should make the new config stay as it should.

I can imagine that one of your presets has this bug. So you probably need to do this with both presets.

Hope that helps!

 

[RasmusP]

With latest G Hub update my G29 with recommended LUT started to lose FFB in the middle (the wobble). Ive do a wheelcheck for min force and its 15%. Can you tell me how to adjust LUT to those settings?

View attachment 511792


EDIT: Looks like it was just decalibration. After that it come to what it was... Jeez, that Logitech...

now:
View attachment 511880

Very weird... However my G27 had 15-16% too so the LUT should feel fine even with the 15% "issue".
But of course it will feel tighter with only 12.5% deadzone!

Glad it's sorted! If you run into the same issue, raising the gain a few percent should be a good and quick fix.
Just press the "+" on the numpad to raise the per-car-gain on the fly whenever it feels a bit too weak.

 

[Faraz Iqbal]

Mhhh this sounds very strange.
I know that cm has some issues with loading a new lut, then going on track, quitting the session, closing cm, opening cm again and then it has the old LUT loaded again instead of the newly loaded LUT.
And the annoying thing is that this "reset" happens when you go on track so when you're stuck in this "LUT reset to the previous one" - bug, you will never drive the newly loaded LUT.

What helps:
Loading the new LUT / configuring everything.
Close cm, open cm. Make sure everything is configured as you want it.
Then close cm and use the default AC launcher. Go on track with any combo.
Quit the session, close the default launcher, open cm, check if everything is correct and go on track.

This should make the new config stay as it should.

I can imagine that one of your presets has this bug. So you probably need to do this with both presets.

Hope that helps!

Haha thanks for the advice! I had already tried that several times before and was skeptical of it working again, but I did figure out the solution! I had forgotten to enable double precision in CSP, my retarded self did. Much love for your hard work on this LUT!! it works spectacularly compared to the default gamma, I'd honestly tip if I could

 

[Neebch]

Beautiful work. My g27 wheel feels like brand new. Anyway i use community manager to import lut in post processing settings. Can you tell ne about center boost gain and center boost range? Its 10% by default. What is ur recommended value for this

 

[RasmusP]

Beautiful work. My g27 wheel feels like brand new. Anyway i use community manager to import lut in post processing settings. Can you tell ne about center boost gain and center boost range? Its 10% by default. What is ur recommended value for this

Thanks!
I use content manager too. Sometimes it sometimes has a bug where it won't correctly load the lut though.. Seems like it works for you!

Center boost gain and range:
Gain should be 0, then the range doesn't matter since it's deactivated.
In theory this bumps up the ffb close to the center position.
Gain = strength of this effect
Range = how far away from the center the boost starts.

It was a nice thing to experiment with before the LUTs were created.
Old stuff, don't use it!

 

[Neebch]

Thanks!
I use content manager too. Sometimes it sometimes has a bug where it won't correctly load the lut though.. Seems like it works for you!

Center boost gain and range:
Gain should be 0, then the range doesn't matter since it's deactivated.
In theory this bumps up the ffb close to the center position.
Gain = strength of this effect
Range = how far away from the center the boost starts.

It was a nice thing to experiment with before the LUTs were created.
Old stuff, don't use it!

thankyou so much for the detailed response
i use your recommended no clip but stronger lut with 50% gain. i think it always works for me with community manager but i have the files in documents/assetto corsa/cfg too cx why not. maybe that helps with cm not loading the lut everytime. cx i tested alot with the lut then turning off the post processing in cm ffb setting and it felt different everytime.

 

[RasmusP]

thankyou so much for the detailed response
i use your recommended no clip but stronger lut with 50% gain. i think it always works for me with community manager but i have the files in documents/assetto corsa/cfg too cx why not. maybe that helps with cm not loading the lut everytime. cx i tested alot with the lut then turning off the post processing in cm ffb setting and it felt different everytime.

Nice to hear! If it feels different, it's working.

Just for general information:
When you import the lut via cm, it puts the lut file into documents/assetto corsa/cfg and edits the ini file. Putting the files in the folder before or after shouldn't make any difference.

Sometimes though, cm decides to un-load the lut file or switches back to the old lut file, if you did load a new one.

It will show your changes but you won't feel any difference.
When you close ac and cm then and restart cm, you'll see that it switched back to your old configuration.


It's not that bad though. Simply configure the ini file manually, start ac with the standard launcher via steam, go on track with any car/track, drive out of the pits, close everything and start content manager.

Then go on track via cm, close ac, close cm, start cm, see if it now kept the changes.

Once it saves your changes, it will keep them and the bug is fixed.