PC1 Project CARS Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Italia settings

[turnburgler]

Anyone got a wheel like this or a similar one and has any clue to what a decent setting setup could be?

I have a problem with the deadzone being too high or the wheel just being unresponsive on low inputs or very uneven with the TX preset. If I used xbox controller preset I get rid of the deadzone but the steering is very sensitive and unnatural instead. Playing around with speed sensitivity and controller slider seems to make a difference, but I can't find a sweet spot.

Note that the 458 wheel without ffb is detected as an xbox controller by the pc, although I haven't had any problems like these in AC, iracing or dirt rally :S

 

[Anindo]

I think he mentioned earlier, this problem does not occur to TX users on PC. It's for the people on consoles with TX.

My car settings are platform independent I guess If the FFB is to soft, increase the main force. The best feel for weight transfer you get with high Fy values, but to much can be confusing (like in Forza 5) and it's a matter of taste.

 

[Rob]

Ok, I will share my settings with you and hope it will help. These are the settings that use for most cars, but adjust them individually per car or track or my MOOD If I want heavier wheel I turn up 'Master Scale' to 100 or even more, but this also depends on the car, for example FA I do only 30, as anything above the wheel starts clipping, but usually I race at around 50-60. Also Mz Scale is good for making heavier wheel, Tire Force or even I found out from another forum SoP settings give you some interesting feel as well. For example sometimes I do this:
SoP Scale - 90
SoP Lateral Scale - 70
SoP Differential Scale - 90
Try it, you may not like it, but some cars I find it makes a good feeling.
Also make sure to update you TX wheel to '48.B9' version.
And one final note which made a big difference to me was Rotation/Angle of the wheel in the main Control menu, connected on PC! A lot of people and forums suggest setting it to 900 degrees, if I do that I loose all the feeling of FBB and wheel becomes very light. So after experimenting I found that 270 degrees give me the best feeling, even you could try lower, maybe...
Anyway, I hope some of this help you, let me know how it feels
These are my general settings, but I tweak some of them per car, track, mood

You are exactly right about the console. PC users have in fact said that it's great on PC when they own both, but not on xbox.

Your settings are GREAT! Some I have tried, but others have not been bold enough to try, so I will and get back to you ASAP. Thank you very much.

 

[R0k4s_46]

You are exactly right about the console. PC users have in fact said that it's great on PC when they own both, but not on xbox.

Your settings are GREAT! Some I have tried, but others have not been bold enough to try, so I will and get back to you ASAP. Thank you very much.

Great, happy to hear it helped. Check out the thread that 'bmanic' posted earlier today, he made some awesome settings too. Just tried, the wheel doesn't feel as heavy (I prefer heavy), but my lap times are quicker, more consistent and driving is precise.

 

[Burke Wells]

Considering this was a thread specifically about a non-force feedback wheel, there sure is a lot of FFB talk here.

Back on topic: I sure hope the developers will include support for the non-ffb 458 Italia wheel soon, hopefully in an upcoming patch. I anticipated being able to use my Thrustmaster wheel with Project Cars just like I do with Assetto Corsa, Stock Car Extreme, Dirt Rally, and everything else that works flawlessly with this wheel, but thus far, that has not been the case.

 

[William Wester]

Considering this was a thread specifically about a non-force feedback wheel, there sure is a lot of FFB talk here.

Back on topic: I sure hope the developers will include support for the non-ffb 458 Italia wheel soon, hopefully in an upcoming patch. I anticipated being able to use my Thrustmaster wheel with Project Cars just like I do with Assetto Corsa, Stock Car Extreme, Dirt Rally, and everything else that works flawlessly with this wheel, but thus far, that has not been the case.

Is the wheel referred in the OP a "Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider"? I think most of use know the "Italia" as being the "Thrustmaster TX Ferrari 458 Italia Edition or T300RS", hence the posts talking about FFB.

 

[Burke Wells]

Is the wheel referred in the OP a "Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider"?

No. It's the Thrustmaster VG Ferrari 458 Italia wheel found here: http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Racing-Xbox-360-6306200/dp/B005O6Z028

There are basically two versions of this wheel. The non-ffb version shown above for around $100, and then there's the TX version with ffb that you are thinking of.

 

[William Wester]

No. It's the Thrustmaster VG Ferrari 458 Italia wheel found here: http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Racing-Xbox-360-6306200/dp/B005O6Z028

There are basically two versions of this wheel. The non-ffb version shown above for around $100, and then there's the TX version with ffb that you are thinking of.

Ok, but it isn't called an "Italia" (Thrustmaster VG Ferrari 458 Racing Wheel), that is what is causing the confusion. It's says its a "replica" of the latest Ferrari 458 Italia, even though there are a number of differences with the the largest being the lack of FFB.
EDIT: I now see that it is referred to an Italia in a few places. Very confusing.

 

[Rob]

Ok, I will share my settings with you and hope it will help. These are the settings that use for most cars, but adjust them individually per car or track or my MOOD If I want heavier wheel I turn up 'Master Scale' to 100 or even more, but this also depends on the car, for example FA I do only 30, as anything above the wheel starts clipping, but usually I race at around 50-60. Also Mz Scale is good for making heavier wheel, Tire Force or even I found out from another forum SoP settings give you some interesting feel as well. For example sometimes I do this:
SoP Scale - 90
SoP Lateral Scale - 70
SoP Differential Scale - 90
Try it, you may not like it, but some cars I find it makes a good feeling.
Also make sure to update you TX wheel to '48.B9' version.
And one final note which made a big difference to me was Rotation/Angle of the wheel in the main Control menu, connected on PC! A lot of people and forums suggest setting it to 900 degrees, if I do that I loose all the feeling of FBB and wheel becomes very light. So after experimenting I found that 270 degrees give me the best feeling, even you could try lower, maybe...
Anyway, I hope some of this help you, let me know how it feels
These are my general settings, but I tweak some of them per car, track, mood

Hey, I just wanted to thank you so much for your help here on the xbox. So much of your information was counter-intuative (at least to me) that I never would have tried it. But cranking up the master while leaving the x scales relatively low was perfect. I also added about 50 SoP in Scale, Lat., and Diff. to add some weight and about 20 on the Mz scale for the same. But the other settings were pretty much identical to yours. Even cranked my wheel down to 360 degrees. Wow. Not perfect, and I think it still needs patching, but boy does it feel good. If you don't mind, I'd like to link your post to out xbox league, which is still looking for drivers (Saturdays) The clipping was not so bad, even though I think it was present at 100 Master, but I'm prepared to live with it in exchange for the feel. Here is a video of the telemetry. I'm getting about 1:25.1 around Brands w/o a tune in a GT3 car. So something is working. Again, thank you SOOOOO much.

 

[Rob]

Hopefully I'm not clipping too much:

 

[William Wester]

It could be that I don't understand the FFB telemetry but I thought you would be clipping when the yellow line (large box upper left) is hitting the the top (or bottom portion of range - box is divided into upper/lower sections). Occasionally would be fine but if flat-lining for any length time would mean you could be loosing FFB resolution. With my settings (TX wheel) I only hit the upper/lower boundaries during a spike. Screen shots below from your video - flat-lining "I think" during right/left corners:

Lots of feedback - curbs/bumps, momentary spikes:

If you drive slowly (30 mph or so) and weave left to right does the FFB telemetry flat-line against the top/bottom ranges?

 

[Sean Reinhardl]

These are the setting am using for TX Thrustmaster wheel on Xbox one

giving me great handling and control of car
I have no idea what all the setting change for force feedback so have not changed them for now need a bit of help (force feedback is same as vid above)

C&P from other forum I use
Posting my setting for Thrustmaster TX wheel to help other not have to have to spend so long setting up there game

Wheel mode
Wheel rotation angle - 720 (three green flashes on mode & Dpad)
Wheel sensitivity - two green light flash

In game settings My home > options &help > controls
Steering Deadzone - 0
Steering sensitivity - 30
Throttle deadzone - 0
Throttle sensitivity - 50
Broke Deadzone - 0
Brake sensitivity - 35
Clutch Deadzone - 0
clutch sensitivity - 100

Speed sensitivity - 0
Controller filtering sensitivity - 0
Damper saturation - 0
Force feedback - 85

Controller input mode - 3
advance - on
soft spring dampening - on
visual wheel - on
opposite lock - off

calibrate peddles
Tire force - 110

all other settings defult.

please post your own setting if you don't like these

 

[Rob]

It could be that I don't understand the FFB telemetry but I thought you would be clipping when the yellow line (large box upper left) is hitting the the top (or bottom portion of range - box is divided into upper/lower sections). Occasionally would be fine but if flat-lining for any length time would mean you could be loosing FFB resolution. With my settings (TX wheel) I only hit the upper/lower boundaries during a spike. Screen shots below from your video - flat-lining "I think" during right/left corners:
View attachment 92914
View attachment 92915

Lots of feedback - curbs/bumps, momentary spikes:
View attachment 92916

If you drive slowly (30 mph or so) and weave left to right does the FFB telemetry flat-line against the top/bottom ranges?

I think you are pretty spot on from what I know (not much). But the car does not flat-line against the top/bottom ranges at 30 mph in the FFB telemetry if I weave left to right. And your pics do show some hits at the top, but the second one is interesting. Clearly there are points where I'm *almost* there, but others where I'm no doubt there. Any idea how to reduce this without losing any strength or "force" in your ffb? Thanks for the great response.

 

[William Wester]

I think you are pretty spot on from what I know (not much). But the car does not flat-line against the top/bottom ranges at 30 mph in the FFB telemetry if I weave left to right. And your pics do show some hits at the top, but the second one is interesting. Clearly there are points where I'm *almost* there, but others where I'm no doubt there. Any idea how to reduce this without losing any strength or "force" in your ffb? Thanks for the great response.

I would only be guessing on what settings would work better or worst "for you", not an expert on the subject. I only tested myself as you stated in your original post "Hopefully not clipping too much" and your video did seemed to be flat-lining a lot more than my settings. I only did a couple tests and increasing FFB resistance did move the line further up the scale. I guess some comes down to how it feels to you, if it feels good then I wouldn't worry, but just keep in mind that IF clipping some detail can be lost. You must like strong FFB, I focus on detail and am actually slower if the FFB is too strong.

 

[Rob]

I would only be guessing on what settings would work better or worst "for you", not an expert on the subject. I only tested myself as you stated in your original post "Hopefully not clipping too much" and your video did seemed to be flat-lining a lot more than my settings. I only did a couple tests and increasing FFB resistance did move the line further up the scale. I guess some comes down to how it feels to you, if it feels good then I wouldn't worry, but just keep in mind that IF clipping some detail can be lost. You must like strong FFB, I focus on detail and am actually slower if the FFB is too strong.

What I'm really trying to do is feel the tires. I know exactly what traction loss feel like and they should at least be able to get that right to a certain extent. I still maintain they have some work to do on the console (xbox) side, so maybe it's just my way of trying to tell understeer and oversteer. It really is dramatic IRL, as I've done it too many times to even think about. It's always a puckering event, but it's much more tactile than this game represents...you should be able to feel the surface tension and the tire bend. You really can't in this game. On xbox. Not yet at least. I can get close...but I'm just trying to fish to see if maybe my expectations are either wrong because of games like F1 and Forza or if it's really a problem. Thanks for the input though.

 

[Ben Eastman]

What worked for me was to leave my wheel at 960, when I do the second stage of calibration hold the wheel so it says "960", because if I just moved it 90* as instructed my DOR came up as 180, and I was getting crap FFB and heavy under steer on full lock, having to put my steering sensitivity at 100 to get it reactive at all. The game automatically adjusts your DOR as per your car and fiddling with it yourself just seems to mess up the game.

After that change and some small changes recommended on the Pcars forums the game feels great.

 

[James Early]

So, there is still no fix for the non ffb version?

 

[Amosuk]

I too have the thrustmaster 458 italia wheel non ffb, the game see my wheel as a joypad, nothing works for calicrate wheel on any settings, but under assignments if I turn left then it says left (LS) right (LS) I have also tried cranking up the settings, so full lock to centre = 3-4seconds delay, the game is unplayable with this wheel, I have to have steeping help on just to get round corners pretty good otherwise its off the track.

Its pretty disappointing that a big game like this leaves out this wheel but leaves in a sidewinder wheel older than 10 years ago.

 

[azeeeta]

After the HUGEEEE off topic (alots of guys talking about another wheel with ffb in every topic i found about this, just piss me off) theres a fix for the NON FFB version, any new fix on this?? mine working much better after i change imput to 2, but still not perfect avery small deadzone on the middle-

 

[azeeeta]

"Despite being a low-end Thrustmaster product, that doesn't change the fact that this wheel works perfectly in Assetto Corsa, Stock Car Extreme, Dirt Rally, Raceroom, all Codemaster's F1 games, and several other titles on my pc. The only problem I've had with it is just trying to get Project Cars to let me calibrate and use it as a wheel without having a monstrous deadzone in the steering.

Not everybody has the same budget. Until I'm able to get the G27 that I want, this 458 is what I have until then. I just wish Project Cars allowed it to work as good as every other driving sim/game."

this was a quote from 6 months ago? devs how hard can it be? alredy thinking thrusmaster its paying for him not to work properly so people buy the more expensive one.... seems really silly but 6 months for a basic driver fix? since release nothign as change.. same ****.

 

[Mike Edmonston]

I too have the Thrustmaster F458 (non FFB) wheel. Any news on supporting this in Pcars?