Opinions on my 8020 rig design

[deandsfsdfewsad]

Looking to build a hybrid GT1 rig/ P1-X with slight modifications, let me know your opinion:

Length = 1.35m, width of wheel deck = 0.64m and the height is 0.71m. I'm looking for something sturdy with no flex to hold a SC 2 Pro or something along those lines with a dd wheel and I need a rig to last a long time and provide a base for future upgrades. Planning on adding a Sparco R100 for the reclining back. Let me know what advice you have...

Also, people that own a GT1 or P1-X what improvements would you suggest on the overall chassis design, i'm average hegith just about 6ft and weigh 76kg.

 

[Fennario]

@deandsfsdfewsad

The only small issue I see (if it were me) is that your pedal/wheel deck are coupled together when in the F1 style.

I agree - would be concerned about shake being introduced into the wheel from aggressive use of the pedals. Would consider:

1. Adding another set of uprights to make the pedals fully independent vs. utilizing the wheel uprights; and
2. Putting the pedal deck uprights on the inside of the frame to allow for the deck to drop into the base of the frame.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

@deandsfsdfewsad

I took the approach of slightly overestimating the overall rig length I thought I might need as I didn't want to end up sitting there with my feet hanging out over the end

One thing I have learnt is that no matter how much you measure stuff out and plan things, you'll end up moving stuff around quite a bit once you sit in the real thing. As long as you've built in some space to do that you'll be good to go.

To give you some reference, I'm 6'1 in height.

The overall length of my rig is 1400mm compared to your 1350mm and I ended up with 150mm of unused space at the front end.

View attachment 371981

If I'm following your 2nd picture correctly, the rear edge of your wheel deck is 630mm from the rear of the main frame. For me, that measurement is 740mm so my guess is that you'll end up pushing your wheel deck and pedals quite a bit further forward than is shown in your pictures, eating into that 245mm of space shown at the front end. So basically, I think you are pretty well set with the measurements you have.

My profile corner to wheel deck top is also 550mm which I've found to be adequate, although less than I had pictured in my mind. If I had a second chance I would have made that 600 or even 650mm, just for some wiggle room to bolt in shifter brackets, button boxes or tablet displays etc. Just something to think about if you see yourself going down that path in the future

View attachment 371988

At present, you look to be setup for the F1 style seated position, with your feet being up relatively high in relation to your backside. If you wanted to change that to a GT style later on, your pedal deck could go all the way down into the 40x160 if need be and you'd also then be able to slide it back and fourth, independent of the wheel deck.

The only small issue I see (if it were me) is that your pedal/wheel deck are coupled together when in the F1 style.

If it helps, I've attached a screenshot of the measurements that were spat out by the Framedesigner software back when I mocked up what I have. It's very cookie cutter and basic in comparison to what you have planned but might serve as another point of reference for you.

View attachment 371985

Thanks! I think I will add some extra height then as suggested to the wheel deck, think I might decrease the length by 25-50mm perhaps since I'm a tad shorter but I don't want to go below 1300mm I think that will be a tad bit too short. Also, I think I may copy your idea and decouple the pedal to the main wheel deck, I would like the flexibility to do an F1 and GT style. The added Framedesigner pic is also useful

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

I think you have wrong info the the plastic end caps. They are very studry, I've never broken one despite removing and installing them numerous times. They make the rig look nicer.

Oh really, I was watching this video this morning:

and that was my inspiration for dropping them as at one point he mentioned that they weren't the best

 

[Chrhun]

Oh really, I was watching this video this morning:
and that was my inspiration for dropping them as at one point he mentioned that they weren't the best

Well, the plastic end caps are really a small thing in your build, but my experience with them (also from Simlab like in the video) is quite different. The ends of the profile are seriously sharp.

 

[EsxPaul]

I'd agree with @Chrun. I've not had any issues with the end caps breaking on me and I wouldn't be without them due to how sharp the edges can be.

You can sometimes have a slight struggle getting them fully pressed in, but nice even taps with a soft mallet does the trick. I could foresee a breakage if someone tried to remove one by prying it out unevenly but fitting and removing them with some caution shouldn't cause a single issue.

 

[jamescarruthers]

@deandsfsdfewsad

To give you some reference, I'm 6'1 in height.

The overall length of my rig is 1400mm compared to your 1350mm and I ended up with 150mm of unused space at the front end.

[/QUOTE]

Glad to hear this - I made mine 1250!

Haven’t put a seat in yet but it feels like it’s going to be perfect.

 

[jamescarruthers]

I would advise you stick 6 or 8 levelling feet on it.

Helps protect the floor - and means you can combat any kind of wobbly floor.

It’ll also stop the thing from creaking - if the floor is uneven at all then the loads won’t be spread and it’ll twist.

I’m putting two non-swivel wheels on mine so that I can tip it up to manoeuvre it - not sure how successful that’ll be yet but the principle works on my rowing machine well.

 

[ThugUK]

Here is mine.

My rig is 150cm and I used to have 'the gap' in front of the pedals, then decided to move everything forward so it was at the rear of the rig (which I would recommend doing) as it was better for the SFX100. My seat is on an adjuster rail too (I am 6'). but is also on anti vibration mounts so my transducer only has to move my seat and not the whole rig (reduces vibration though the floor too).
My wheel supports are 60cm which allows for plenty of adjustment (having said that, I have never moved it yet).
I also have the black plastic caps on everything as it finishes it off. I have never had to remove one yet and they have never broken either.

I also play CoD on my rig 2, so can adjust it to having a shelf on it in about 4 seconds due to my fold down arms/supports.

That is the beauty of this kind of rig, its only your imagination (and spare cash) that stops you doing things.

 

[jamescarruthers]

@ThugUK — what mounts did you use for your pedal support crossmembers to "pedal towers"? My design is the same as yours - I went for "flexible" mounts but they appear to have some play when tightened up.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

I would advise you stick 6 or 8 levelling feet on it.

Helps protect the floor - and means you can combat any kind of wobbly floor.

It’ll also stop the thing from creaking - if the floor is uneven at all then the loads won’t be spread and it’ll twist.

I’m putting two non-swivel wheels on mine so that I can tip it up to manoeuvre it - not sure how successful that’ll be yet but the principle works on my rowing machine well.

Yeah I have been looking at some plastic cups on an M8 bolt onto the bottom of the profile, I will be mounting this on a carpet rug but the floor around is just exposed wood it's pretty level but I'm sure its not perfect

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

Here is mine.

View attachment 372149

My rig is 150cm and I used to have 'the gap' in front of the pedals, then decided to move everything forward so it was at the rear of the rig (which I would recommend doing) as it was better for the SFX100. My seat is on an adjuster rail too (I am 6'). but is also on anti vibration mounts so my transducer only has to move my seat and not the whole rig (reduces vibration though the floor too).
My wheel supports are 60cm which allows for plenty of adjustment (having said that, I have never moved it yet).
I also have the black plastic caps on everything as it finishes it off. I have never had to remove one yet and they have never broken either.

I also play CoD on my rig 2, so can adjust it to having a shelf on it in about 4 seconds due to my fold down arms/supports.

View attachment 372150

View attachment 372151

View attachment 372152

View attachment 372153

That is the beauty of this kind of rig, its only your imagination (and spare cash) that stops you doing things.

wow this is a really nice setup here, really would like to get some buttkickers or a diy alternative down the line as it seems like an added dimension of reality that could be quite good

 

[ThugUK]

@jamescarruthers I just used 'L' brackets (or what ever the are called).
They are not keyed, so you can position them where you want and once tightened up they don't budge.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

so in terms of the design i've made some of the changes you guys suggested:

I put the pedal deck area on the inside of the seciton and decoupled it to allow greater flexibility of setup allowing me to lower it and move independantly of the wheel deck

Another thought I wanted to pass by you lot was whether having my shifter mounted on the outside of the section would this give me enough room the put my fanatec shifter on the inside next to my chair so I don't have to lean my arm over to shift gear or will it be too close to my leg like this? Also, I put the plastic end caps back on it does look nice in the CAD software for sure

 

[ThugUK]

Not sure if this is what you mean, but look at my photos, I have my handbrake on the inside and its not an issue at all.
But this is the beauty of these rigs, you can position it where you want and adjust it to suit.

 

[jamescarruthers]

I don't know if you're overcomplicating that pedal adjustment — check out @ThugUK's design — it's the same I've gone for and I reckon it's more than enough. Maybe depends how often you're going to adjust the pedals.... but I would wager not all that often.

 

[ThugUK]

I don't know if you're overcomplicating that pedal adjustment — check out @ThugUK's design — it's the same I've gone for and I reckon it's more than enough. Maybe depends how often you're going to adjust the pedals.... but I would wager not all that often.

I agree.
It will probably save you about £60 too.

 

[jamescarruthers]

There is always an effort with these things to make it as adjustable as possible — but in truth unless you have multiple people using it, it just isn't worth the added cost or complexity.

@ThugUK — I went for this type, but it turns out they don't quite work as expected...

 

[jamescarruthers]

Another thing I’ve found good - are these little trims - they make the pieces slide much easier. It only really works for specific joints because it adds mm in dimension.

I also need to trim half a mm off these ones so that the brackets fit against the extrusion.

They're really cheap.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

There is always an effort with these things to make it as adjustable as possible — but in truth unless you have multiple people using it, it just isn't worth the added cost or complexity.

@ThugUK — I went for this type, but it turns out they don't quite work as expected...
View attachment 372167

that's the thing because it's my first proper rig I really don't know what I'm aiming for aside from the ability to adjust a lot if required. I would like to do an f1 style setup and a GT setup if the mood took me that way

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

I agree.
It will probably save you about £60 too.

that would be nice as I think I may wish to put more money into the seat as I don't know how good the Sparco R100 which I had initially sought for will be. I took the pedal tray design from the Sim Lab GT1 as it has a lot of praise but maybe I can trim it down as I have 'oversized' things as a safety factor