Hello!
I have recently bought myself an old G25 to get into simracing, but my experience so far hasn't been so nice.
The problem I have is that the wheel is acting very weird. Sometimes when I plug it into my computer it calibrates itself, then the wheel returns to the middle and then it stays there and shakes like crazy and is very hard to turn. (Look Video 1)
Video 1:
Now sometimes when I plug it in, mostly after the computer has been off for some time and the wheel too, the wheel calibrates itself, returns to the middle and is acting normal. (Look Video 2)
Video 2:
So when the wheel is acting like in the video 2, then I of course open AC to race a bit, but the fun doesn't last long because then the wheel starts doing it's thing again. The wheel becomes very hard to turn and shakes like crazy making the game unplayable. (Look Video 3)
Video 3:
It is true that when I bought the set, the wheel was broken. The 2 MOSFETS were burnt and the optical encoder wheel was cracked too. The wheel wouldn't calibrate when plugged in at all and the power light on the shifter would blink. Now that I got everything repaired, the wheel calibrates itself, sometimes shaking sometimes not, and the light isn't blinking anymore. So based on that I think it is just a software problem and not a hardware one. I measured and cleaned both motors too and they have continuity and they both have 30 Ohms. Nothing is burned on the motherboard and everything I measured is correct, every cable has continuity and is not shorting.....so yes, it must be a software problem or something...
PS: I run RasmusP's settings and LUT in AC, so it's not some setting from the game.
I have recently bought myself an old G25 to get into simracing, but my experience so far hasn't been so nice.
The problem I have is that the wheel is acting very weird. Sometimes when I plug it into my computer it calibrates itself, then the wheel returns to the middle and then it stays there and shakes like crazy and is very hard to turn. (Look Video 1)
Video 1:
Now sometimes when I plug it in, mostly after the computer has been off for some time and the wheel too, the wheel calibrates itself, returns to the middle and is acting normal. (Look Video 2)
Video 2:
So when the wheel is acting like in the video 2, then I of course open AC to race a bit, but the fun doesn't last long because then the wheel starts doing it's thing again. The wheel becomes very hard to turn and shakes like crazy making the game unplayable. (Look Video 3)
Video 3:
It is true that when I bought the set, the wheel was broken. The 2 MOSFETS were burnt and the optical encoder wheel was cracked too. The wheel wouldn't calibrate when plugged in at all and the power light on the shifter would blink. Now that I got everything repaired, the wheel calibrates itself, sometimes shaking sometimes not, and the light isn't blinking anymore. So based on that I think it is just a software problem and not a hardware one. I measured and cleaned both motors too and they have continuity and they both have 30 Ohms. Nothing is burned on the motherboard and everything I measured is correct, every cable has continuity and is not shorting.....so yes, it must be a software problem or something...
PS: I run RasmusP's settings and LUT in AC, so it's not some setting from the game.
![Luca [OT]](https://overtake-data.community.forum/avatars/s/3235/3235113.jpg?1697196734){kind=avatar}
