Just mounted a D-BOX 4250i G3 on Simlab P1X, a few questions!

[Alvise]

Hi,

I have finally finished mounting the dbox system on my p1x!! I have a few questions/concerns about how to place the actuators, inclination and the controllers. Hope you can help me.

1. With a digital level I've checked if the actuators are straight, as you can see in one or other axis, they have 0.1 degree or 0.4 degree inclination, is it negligible or I should try to have 0.0 in all the axis?



2. To mount the controllers I've used the plate given by simlab with the dbox. The two controllers are really close, one with the actuator cables facing forward, the other facing backward... any dbox owner knows if this is fine or they should be mounted in another way 'cause the vents? (the cable management is definitively hard! )


3. I have the actuators placed in a square shape, but to do so the rear actuators are not far back like I saw in many videos, they are at around > 20cm from the back. (picture attached) Does setting them back give me some advantages?

4. The rig is on a simlab floor mat, what do you think ...should I put it directly on the floor?

Thank you so much for the help!

Alvise

 

[DonDonki]

#3 - Looks like you are sitting on the edge of the "square" so the pitch effect will be totally out for you. You should move the rear actuators further back as much as possible. They should be behind the seat so you are sitting INSIDE the "square". IMO it would still be better to end up sitting inside a "rectangle" shape than sitting on the edge of a "square"
I followed this guide when I installed my SFX150

https://eracing-lab.com/pages/actuator-length-and-position

 

[Clover11]

I also think you should move the rears back. You want to be inside the rectangle you are building. With those rear actuators so far forward, you won't feel any forward pitch.

Angle should be fine. That is around as close as you are realistically going to get it.

 

[Alvise]

Thank's a lot @DonDonki @Clover11 , I've moved the rear actuators to the far back, and removed the floor mat.



This is the configuration I've commonly seen around. Now, do you think I should move the wheel further and the front actuators backward, to form a perfect square and maximize the angle or having the front actuators before the wheel isn't that great?
I just saw the picture in the link that @DonDonki posted above.

 

[NetLawMan]

My setup is the same as your current setup. I would not put the actuators behind the steering column. There is a lot of weight on that column. When you are not sitting in the rig, it could pose a tipping hazard. Perhaps damage the floor, or injure kids/pets.

look at all vids by dbox and others. Not many show a perfect square.

I don’t have a perfect square, and my dbox works perfectly.

 

[Alvise]

My setup is the same as your current setup. I would not put the actuators behind the steering column. There is a lot of weight on that column. When you are not sitting in the rig, it could pose a tipping hazard. Perhaps damage the floor, or injure kids/pets.

look at all vids by dbox and others. Not many show a perfect square.

I don’t have a perfect square, and my dbox works perfectly.

All clear thank you! How did you manage the cables? Could you please share a picture ?

 

[Alvise]

Thank you all! I’ve finally finished to configure everything and I’ve put back the floor mat.

Attached an image of the weights without any person on… it’s the best I could do 515-543N are the front actuators and 357-311N rear.

Should I work more on the balance or is it enough?

It’s really hard to keep the non-captive extremities aligned. Do you think I should keep the where they are without bothering too much?



Ah last question guys, I was thinking to mount the single 32inch monitor on the rig…(it should be 10-15kg max with the mounting brackets). Should be a negligible weight for the current setup, isn’t it? Would I notice any decrease in performance?

Thank you!!

 

[ColinMac]

Lots of sensible suggestions here. I'd use a floor mat under them if it was me (thinking of the floor more, actually) and I'd not as someone else suggested have them behind the wheel uprights. Mine are just in front.

I know the perfect design is a square of actuators - but you can easily modify the motion profiles to add more front/rear movement should you desire - honestly, mine is just fine the way it is. It's not about overall massive movement, but just 'gives a sense' of what the car is doing.

Your control boxes will be fine. Mine never even get warm - they're designed to be 'ON' for years in the likes of cinemas.

 

[ColinMac]

You need some of those amazing 'turn in' cable clips - you can cable manage even the actuator heavy cables with them and zip ties.

You likely got a few with your p1x - they're easily 3D printed. I can run a bunch off you need some, as I've a 3d printer and some nice carbon fibre shard PLA.

 

[NetLawMan]

Thank you all! I’ve finally finished to configure everything and I’ve put back the floor mat.

Attached an image of the weights without any person on… it’s the best I could do 515-543N are the front actuators and 357-311N rear.
View attachment 555236
Should I work more on the balance or is it enough?

It’s really hard to keep the non-captive extremities aligned. Do you think I should keep the where they are without bothering too much?

View attachment 555237

Ah last question guys, I was thinking to mount the single 32inch monitor on the rig…(it should be 10-15kg max with the mounting brackets). Should be a negligible weight for the current setup, isn’t it? Would I notice any decrease in performance?

Thank you!!

Weights look fine. Should balance out once the driver is in it.

I use cork 12” squares under each actuator. Might reduce a bit of transference of vibration to the floor. But the main reason is to protect the floor and address the problem that my floor is not even. FL - 1/4 thick; FR - 1/2”; BL - 1/2”; BR - 3/4”

Not sure what you mean by aligning extremities

 

[Alvise]

Thank you guys for your help and suggestions!

 

[thenic123]

You need some of those amazing 'turn in' cable clips - you can cable manage even the actuator heavy cables with them and zip ties.

You likely got a few with your p1x - they're easily 3D printed. I can run a bunch off you need some, as I've a 3d printer and some nice carbon fibre shard PLA.

View attachment 555724

Where can I find the stl file for the turn zip tie cable clips as shown?

 

[ColinMac]

I found it on Thingiverse. I'll see if I can dig out a link ....