HPP PRX Se pedal problem

Kek700

Premium
I have some HPP PRX pedals, I really wanted to see if all the positive reviews are justified about hydraulic pedals.
Unfortunatly mine have a lot of initial stiction, you could say a notch‘y start.
After that they are rather good, but every time I press them I have to go through a notch‘y start.
This is very annoying, it spoils their overall affect.
Has anyone got an answer, I have tried silicon spray, i just put it on the master and slave push shafts to some affect, soon back to that notch’y start.:mad:
Sorted.:)
 
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Solution
Revive an old thread.
Anyone with HPP pedals will eventually find this thread.

Spectra Symbol is the potentiometer company for these pedals. Can order the throttle and clutch sensors from them and solder on your wires.
25mm soft pot linear potentiometer ($12)
wiper/plunger - McMaster website. Ordered a couple sizes to get correct. 8-32 or 8-36 size. Will update when have in hand.

Leo Bodnar replacement usb boards BU0836A (£27)

Motion simulation who bought HPP sells the pressure transducer for the brakes as it’s the same transducer in the new JBV pedals as the PRX. (£120)

If anyone knows of another replacement brake transducer, please post up. I wonder if any 5v 3 wire sensor will work.

I’ve never opened up the brake system...
You really need to strip them and check the bores of both master and slave, but i am going to assume you have.
You may need some new seals, I just used the website recommended in this article and bought some, very cheap, but on stripping them, they just needed cleaning.
Bores were perfect.
Listening to your pedals, to me they are running metal to metal somewhere, you really need to strip them. :)
Mine has very slight initial stiction, which disappears once pressed, they are silent.:)
 
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I also have the HPP 3P-PRX-SE pedals in use since nearly two years. They make the same noise but work without a problem and I also don't feel a vibration in the pedal while pushing it.
Are they normally noiseless? Never bothered about it, but now I am curious if there might be something wrong with them.
Mark told me that most PRX pedals have the same noise, but mine are on the loud side. Yours are probably fine. Mine have that rubbing sensation, which is all I'm concerned about now. Waiting to hear back if I can reduce it somehow.

You really need to strip them and check the bores of both master and slave, but i am going to assume you have.
You may need some new seals, I just used the website recommended in this article and bought some, very cheap, but on stripping them, they just needed cleaning.
Bores were perfect.
Listening to your pedals, to me they are running metal to metal somewhere, you really need to strip them. :)
Mine has very slight initial stiction, which disappears once pressed, they are silent.:)
If I keep them then I will strip them down and check. I saw the discussion on how to fix the bore if it's scored, what do I do if the slave cylinder piston is the problem? Can I just polish it, or would that mess with the tolerances too much?
 
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Mark told me that most PRX pedals have the same noise, but mine are on the loud side. Yours are probably fine. Mine have that rubbing sensation, which is all I'm concerned about now. Waiting to hear back if I can reduce it somehow.
Thank you :)

As soon as I have the time I will check and let you know how they feel without the bumpers in place. Haven't been in the rig for quite a few days...
 
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If I keep them then I will strip them down and check. I saw the discussion on how to fix the bore if it's scored, what do I do if the slave cylinder piston is the problem? Can I just polish it, or would that mess with the tolerances too much?
I will be surprised if you have any scoring, I would if that was the case find a friendly machine shop that will hone them for you.
You can buy very cheaply a small honing bit that fits a normal diy drill and do it yourself..
In the forum above you can find a company in Germany that sells the seals very cheaply.
It is the easiest job in the world to strip the master and slave, takes me 5 minutes to strip both the master and slave + 10 minuets to bleed them.
But I will be interested, especially as hearing the noise they make.:)

They are a great set of pedals, it is worth putting in the effort.
 
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I will be surprised if you have any scoring, I would if that was the case find a friendly machine shop that will hone them for you.
You can buy very cheaply a small honing bit that fits a normal diy drill and do it yourself..
In the forum above you can find a company in Germany that sells the seals very cheaply.
It is the easiest job in the world to strip the master and slave, takes me 5 minutes to strip both the master and slave + 10 minuets to bleed them.
But I will be interested, especially as hearing the noise they make.:)

They are a great set of pedals, it is worth putting in the effort.
If there is some kind of damage, are you sure it's that easy? Aren't there very very tight tolerances that have to be maintained to avoid sticking and leaks?
 
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Probably, but at that point you have no alternatives other than replace either the master or slave cylinder at a cost of about £200 ++ and postage that is going to be £80. I am assuming you do not live in USA. :)
 
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Shame, I stuck with it, they really are very good, they just need some maintaining, not like their load cell equivalent.
I have kept my HE pro pedals as a back up. So perhaps I am lucky to have a way out.
Just out of interest how much were they.:)
 
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I have the same issue. Brake is sticking in the beginning afterwards it's fine.
I asked HPP and you can see the instructions below.
I did everything and its still sticking. I even opened them up completely afterwards to give them a clean.

I asked for the seals and this is the one used for the master cylinder:
X-Profile Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring

I'm not gonna send the pedals in for repair and I'm using my old HE Pros for now.
I preordered the Simagic P2000 Pedals, they look quite similar to the HPP.
I will try to order some seals but I'm located in Germany and don't really know where to get them here. If anyone wants to order some of these. Please send me some over.

Edit: Found a shop in Germany, you can contact them in english too

View attachment 499807
Greetings,
I had the same problems. I just purchased and installed all four of the critical O-rings from McMaster-Carr and bled the pedals according to this post. My pedals are now like new.
I have a bunch of extras. I'll send all 4 of them to you for $10
ralong2@comcast.net
 
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Can you take a video of how to bleed? Because I am Korean. When I translate English to a translation site, there are many mistranslations, so I can't understand it. I know you put in 0W20 motor oil. I don't know how to bleed. Please upload a video of bleeder work.
 
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My pedal are all bolted to my rig, plus my rig is not at my house, so it would just not be practical for me to do it any time soon.
But all you need to do is watch any video of a cars brakes being bleed and scale that process down to your brake pedal on a much smaller scale.
It is exactly the same process, except you can do it in you kitchen sink as opposed to a car in a garage.
The piston that is pushed by the brake pedal is the master cylinder, same on a car, like a caterham 7. The slave cylinder is the one activativing the rubber bushes, that is equivalent to the slave cylinder that is the pistons on the brakes that push the pads onto the cars disc in say a caterham 7 again.

Any video showing a brake being dismantled, any video of a master cylinder being dismantled will give an insight to what you need to do.
Just read some of the how to do’s on this forum and it will be obvious.

But I realise how so much is lost in translation, so if you are very patient I will sometime in the future do this for you.:)

But believe me, it is so easy compared to a motor vehicle, the HPP pedals almost bleed them selves.
 
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hpp pedal air zoon..

I want to remove the air layer. I know that other pedals don't even have an air layer.. Only one of the writers here, please upload a bleeding video.... I'm Korean, so I can't understand it no matter how much I write in English..
 
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Put your pedal back as they should be , fully assembled.
Then take a video of you depressing them, at this moment in time, I don’t see the problem with the brake pedal
 
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Thanks @Kek700 much appreciated!

I'll grab a syringe and some tubing and have a go bleeding though the nipple with the system laid flat, as that seems to be the easiest approach!
Thanks @Kek700 much appreciated!

I'll grab a syringe and some tubing and have a go bleeding though the nipple with the system laid flat, as that seems to be the easiest approach!
bro how to bleeding Can you take a video and show it? Please,
 
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